What would you recommend for volume controller for two Sanwo Blue PBTL's and would it work well with a Iphone.
Guys we got the first LLC resonator PSU (from evm board) tested . 19v at 4.5A rated but on spikes it can go up to 120W (unlike hard sw PSU)
Noise is pretty good. Ripple...well we already down to 140mV (just added some capacitor)
Our target is 40mV. Will keep you guys posted .
Imagine a good TPA3116 board paired to a good PSU.
Noise is pretty good. Ripple...well we already down to 140mV (just added some capacitor)
Our target is 40mV. Will keep you guys posted .
Imagine a good TPA3116 board paired to a good PSU.
Attachments
"just added some capacitor",
now thats what i call proper hardware design - not. 🙂
What's your target/nominal LLC frequency with this design?
now thats what i call proper hardware design - not. 🙂
What's your target/nominal LLC frequency with this design?
I am not the engineer , just passing what I hear.
We are targeting 150Khz . We are very confident (well the engineers are) of reaching 40mV. Will they add more capacitors or maybe a PI filter ? Its a mystery to me.
Once its done I am the tester...btw I sing off key and rarely . I cannot say I have a musical ear 🙂 ...unless you give me a bottle of "cru bourgeois ". Then I really (think) I have talent .. cheers my friend .
Frank Sinatra...My Way on the TPA3116 🙂
Got my TDA8932 modules today from AliExpress. Shipping was really quick. Hoping this is the perfect solution for my small cubed bluetooth speakers.
Here's the link:
TDA8932 2X15W Dual channels wireless Bluetooth Audio digital amplifier board For modified Ceiling mounted bluetooth speaker-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
I'll try to post a followup when I get them all hooked up.
Here's the link:
TDA8932 2X15W Dual channels wireless Bluetooth Audio digital amplifier board For modified Ceiling mounted bluetooth speaker-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
I'll try to post a followup when I get them all hooked up.
Nobsound TPA3116D2 + Bluetooth
Hello blackbird84 and impuls60.
I have bought a Nobsound TPA3116D2 + Bluetooth module (2x50W) and most things I have to claim about is the pop noise (and speakers popping out and in), and also hiss noise during use (with or without bluetooth). This hiss noise is variable...... with battery and PC PSU bigger than with laptop PSU.
For the first issue, mostly annoying because I believe the subscribers are getting a big push, do you say shortenning the - from both RCA's and - from PSU, will sove it right?
For the second issue, hiss noise, is there any recomendations? Any filtering of PSU would fix it?
Thanks in advance.
Best Regards
Nuno Barros
Hello blackbird84 and impuls60.
I have bought a Nobsound TPA3116D2 + Bluetooth module (2x50W) and most things I have to claim about is the pop noise (and speakers popping out and in), and also hiss noise during use (with or without bluetooth). This hiss noise is variable...... with battery and PC PSU bigger than with laptop PSU.
For the first issue, mostly annoying because I believe the subscribers are getting a big push, do you say shortenning the - from both RCA's and - from PSU, will sove it right?
For the second issue, hiss noise, is there any recomendations? Any filtering of PSU would fix it?
Thanks in advance.
Best Regards
Nuno Barros
shaheed, yes or you could connect the gnd on the on the amp together with the ground for the powersupply of your music source. If you go for the second solution you dont have to short the RCA - to ground. The main thing is to have both powersupply at the same voltage potential. The wire to connect the two power supply should be as short as possible and low resistance.
I usally try one solution at the time to find out what works best..
As for the second issue I dont think filtering will the powersupply will help. However lowering the gain or do the RC mod on pin 17 will reduce the hiss. Lowered gain will help by a small amount and the RC 17 mod will help a lot. The hiss comes from EMF from tpa3116 chip's output. Putting a RC(resistor and capacitor filter) on pin 17 on the chip stops the noise from getting into the analog and sensitive side of the chip. How to do this has been discussed many times before in this thread so I won't go into that. This mod is however very tricky so I wouldnt do it unless you have to.. Hope this answered your questions 🙂
I usally try one solution at the time to find out what works best..
As for the second issue I dont think filtering will the powersupply will help. However lowering the gain or do the RC mod on pin 17 will reduce the hiss. Lowered gain will help by a small amount and the RC 17 mod will help a lot. The hiss comes from EMF from tpa3116 chip's output. Putting a RC(resistor and capacitor filter) on pin 17 on the chip stops the noise from getting into the analog and sensitive side of the chip. How to do this has been discussed many times before in this thread so I won't go into that. This mod is however very tricky so I wouldnt do it unless you have to.. Hope this answered your questions 🙂
M
matsuda
I wonder if anyone has a picture the RC 17 mod? I'd like to see how people managed to fit everything somewhere.
I have a 5.1 board based on 4x TPA3116 and it has quite a terrible hiss in all channels. The board in question is similar to this:
New TPA3116 5 1 Channel HiFi Amplifier Board BTL Class D Audio 100WX1 50WX5 | eBay
It had some other issues too, like some bad solders and such. But the "funniest" part was when I tested the "subwoofer" channel. I didn't get any sound whatsoever. Quick poking around with a multimeter revealed that the SUB input RCA + was not connected to anything! There is in addition to "main" volume, a pot for each channel, including the SUB, but nothing was supplied to it. Did a couple of jump wires and got it to work. It seems to have some sort of LPF for the SUB channel too.
Speaking of pots, I also have the "mid way" hiss with all of them. Volume down it gets better and volume up it gets better but around half way it's the worst. I'm wondering if I'd bypass the "main" volume pot and just go with the channel specific controls. Or just use the main one only.
As the pots (labeled "10K" on the board, btw) are most likely not of the highest quality, do you recon I'd get better results if I replaced them with better ones?
I will be using the amp to drive a set of 8ohm surround speakers, from analog outputs of my PC's sound card.
I have a 5.1 board based on 4x TPA3116 and it has quite a terrible hiss in all channels. The board in question is similar to this:
New TPA3116 5 1 Channel HiFi Amplifier Board BTL Class D Audio 100WX1 50WX5 | eBay
It had some other issues too, like some bad solders and such. But the "funniest" part was when I tested the "subwoofer" channel. I didn't get any sound whatsoever. Quick poking around with a multimeter revealed that the SUB input RCA + was not connected to anything! There is in addition to "main" volume, a pot for each channel, including the SUB, but nothing was supplied to it. Did a couple of jump wires and got it to work. It seems to have some sort of LPF for the SUB channel too.
Speaking of pots, I also have the "mid way" hiss with all of them. Volume down it gets better and volume up it gets better but around half way it's the worst. I'm wondering if I'd bypass the "main" volume pot and just go with the channel specific controls. Or just use the main one only.
As the pots (labeled "10K" on the board, btw) are most likely not of the highest quality, do you recon I'd get better results if I replaced them with better ones?
I will be using the amp to drive a set of 8ohm surround speakers, from analog outputs of my PC's sound card.
I think 10k is the correct value for the pots. Others have had the same problem with double that value and more. Suprising that you have that issue with 10k. My mods are usally such a hack job that I dont dare to share that with anyone hehe. I added 10R and 22uF to pin 17 but it didnt help nearly as much as when I used a lot higer value resistor and larger cap on another build. Perhaps someone else here on the forum can give you the max values for this?.
read the spec, or go to the ti web page to find out.
it is new, the original is still available
q1 is used for automotive processing and grading, one example is op temp is increased to 125C from 85C for regular grade. have to read the new spec to see all the differences.
I see they added some new devices to the family, TAS5414,5424
TPA3116D2-Q1 | Mid/High-Power Class D Amplifiers | Audio | Description & parametrics
4 ch, i2c mcu i/f = cool
it is new, the original is still available
q1 is used for automotive processing and grading, one example is op temp is increased to 125C from 85C for regular grade. have to read the new spec to see all the differences.
I see they added some new devices to the family, TAS5414,5424
TPA3116D2-Q1 | Mid/High-Power Class D Amplifiers | Audio | Description & parametrics
4 ch, i2c mcu i/f = cool
Hi guys;
I have a number of questions regarding my mildly-modified Yuan-Jing Black/Blue TPA3116D2 Board.
I notice Rhing has posted a number of images with his admirable works on his Blue/Black YJ Board, so I suppose my query could be directed his way!
1. The four small blue shiny components in place of the Bootstrap Caps, what values/manufacturer are these?
2. Talking of Bootstraps, can someone please tell me what to buy (and do) to administer this upgrade, I see from various shots there are four shiny (yellow Caps?) and four Resistors on the underside soldered together (somewhere???), values/brands positioning etc???
3. I'm considering the purchase of the Coilcraft Inductors, how do I safely remove the existing one's from the board without destroying it and do the new Coilcrafts have a polarity consideration?
4. I configured each of my boards as a Mono, as instructed by Simple Media Networks: Mod a TPA3116 amp for Mono Mode - Simple Media Networks, Inc
Will this have any bearing on my performing the Bootstrap mods?
Appreciate any assistance, as I'm having an absolute blast with these little amps, they are certainly performing well with my efficient Horning Agathons.
BTW: I'm using 3x6v Motorcycle Batteries per side, so solid DC source, I tried 19vdc Laptop SMPS initially, but too noisy for my Lowthers.
I have a number of questions regarding my mildly-modified Yuan-Jing Black/Blue TPA3116D2 Board.
I notice Rhing has posted a number of images with his admirable works on his Blue/Black YJ Board, so I suppose my query could be directed his way!
1. The four small blue shiny components in place of the Bootstrap Caps, what values/manufacturer are these?
2. Talking of Bootstraps, can someone please tell me what to buy (and do) to administer this upgrade, I see from various shots there are four shiny (yellow Caps?) and four Resistors on the underside soldered together (somewhere???), values/brands positioning etc???
3. I'm considering the purchase of the Coilcraft Inductors, how do I safely remove the existing one's from the board without destroying it and do the new Coilcrafts have a polarity consideration?
4. I configured each of my boards as a Mono, as instructed by Simple Media Networks: Mod a TPA3116 amp for Mono Mode - Simple Media Networks, Inc
Will this have any bearing on my performing the Bootstrap mods?
Appreciate any assistance, as I'm having an absolute blast with these little amps, they are certainly performing well with my efficient Horning Agathons.
BTW: I'm using 3x6v Motorcycle Batteries per side, so solid DC source, I tried 19vdc Laptop SMPS initially, but too noisy for my Lowthers.
I recently got this:
version of the TPA3116 board and put it together with a pair of 4ohm 100W bookshelf speakers to use in place of an old pair of computer speakers. I'm using a LiShin 19V 3.42A laptop power supply.
I've been doing a little bit of listening since I got it running and it sounds nice for the most part. My complaint is that it doesn't seem to handle dynamics well. By this I mean, when instrumentation is sparse ( for instance bass, guitar, vocals, light percussion) it sounds very nice. The sound is rich, balanced, lots of details. When the instrumentation gets more complex and the overall dynamic increases (especially when there is a heavier percussion, lots of symbols, distorted guitar etc.) it seems like the overall volume stays roughly the same, but the low and mids get robbed and I'm left with a more thin brittle sound and some really unpleasant highs.
This is with volume set well below the maximum, though so it doesn't seem to me like it should be a problem with the amount of power available. Don't have much experience here though so I don't really know.
Does anybody know what might be causing this phenomenon?
version of the TPA3116 board and put it together with a pair of 4ohm 100W bookshelf speakers to use in place of an old pair of computer speakers. I'm using a LiShin 19V 3.42A laptop power supply.
I've been doing a little bit of listening since I got it running and it sounds nice for the most part. My complaint is that it doesn't seem to handle dynamics well. By this I mean, when instrumentation is sparse ( for instance bass, guitar, vocals, light percussion) it sounds very nice. The sound is rich, balanced, lots of details. When the instrumentation gets more complex and the overall dynamic increases (especially when there is a heavier percussion, lots of symbols, distorted guitar etc.) it seems like the overall volume stays roughly the same, but the low and mids get robbed and I'm left with a more thin brittle sound and some really unpleasant highs.
This is with volume set well below the maximum, though so it doesn't seem to me like it should be a problem with the amount of power available. Don't have much experience here though so I don't really know.
Does anybody know what might be causing this phenomenon?
Probably those bulk caps aren't that low esr. Are you able to measure them or give any hint on vendor and series?
You may monitor the voltage at one of the caps while playing heavy stuff to see if your supply voltage is sagging.
Beside their might be (unlikely) core saturation effects with those 33uH inductors. With 33uH + 680nF the filters are "tuned" for 8R load. Sound-wise it doesn't matters but 4R is pulling more current which pushes the inductors "harder" until they might saturate. You might measure the DCR resistance of those inductors and let us know.
You may monitor the voltage at one of the caps while playing heavy stuff to see if your supply voltage is sagging.
Beside their might be (unlikely) core saturation effects with those 33uH inductors. With 33uH + 680nF the filters are "tuned" for 8R load. Sound-wise it doesn't matters but 4R is pulling more current which pushes the inductors "harder" until they might saturate. You might measure the DCR resistance of those inductors and let us know.
The supply caps are yxtcap 1000 uf 35V. I have a multimeter and take some measurements, but I'll have to do that later. Thanks for the input!
I'm very noob. I had one EE class back in college, but it's been a looong time. I want to be sure I understand.
So I would measure voltage from the output of the cap to ground? And it should stay right around 19V?
Would this require removing these components from the board?
So I would measure voltage from the output of the cap to ground? And it should stay right around 19V?
Would this require removing these components from the board?
Aren't those caps like:
Free shiping 50PCS 1000uF 35V 13*21mm 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor-in Capacitors from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
YXT isn't any (to me) known brand at all. So chances are good that they are "no-spec".
Monitoring the supply voltage -> Yes, at the + Pin of the cap to GND. For measuring the DC-resistance of the coils you don't need to desolder them but your multimeter must capable of measuring low resistances.
Free shiping 50PCS 1000uF 35V 13*21mm 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor-in Capacitors from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
YXT isn't any (to me) known brand at all. So chances are good that they are "no-spec".
Monitoring the supply voltage -> Yes, at the + Pin of the cap to GND. For measuring the DC-resistance of the coils you don't need to desolder them but your multimeter must capable of measuring low resistances.