I found these nice, reasonable cost binding posts recently, with a choice of materials.
http://www.pomonaelectronics.com/pdf/d3750-3760-3770_101.pdf
In My Myopic view .. Nickel is Good, Gold is Blingy...Solder is best.
IF one doesn't have habitual need of connecting/disconnecting one's speaker wires.
All will work... beyond any normal Humans' Hearing capabilities though.
IF one doesn't have habitual need of connecting/disconnecting one's speaker wires.
All will work... beyond any normal Humans' Hearing capabilities though.
solid copper.
but copper tarnishes.
copper is soft and hard to machine so you add a little brass to help production.
gold doesnt tarnish.
therefore, gold plated copper.
if you want the best conductivity, silver.
I'm using mundorf gold plated copper posts that I ordered in through madisound.
but copper tarnishes.
copper is soft and hard to machine so you add a little brass to help production.
gold doesnt tarnish.
therefore, gold plated copper.
if you want the best conductivity, silver.
I'm using mundorf gold plated copper posts that I ordered in through madisound.
The Pomona brass binding posts are about the best type. The brand doesn't matter as much as the construction. The ones I try to use have a HEX knob that fits a 1/2" nut driver, are made of brass and are rated for 30 amperes. It is a type called a "5 way binding post" that also has a banana jack built into the ends. The intention is that the speaker cable should be terminated with a crimp-on connector. Something like a "spade" end, or better yet, a "ring terminal" with a section removed near the crimped end so it hooks onto the jack center. That way it will stay put while you find the nut driver. It is important to snug the connection tight, do not apply too much torque as you don't need much to do the job. Doing it this way you protect yourself from shorts, and you make it easy to connect the wires.
I see some real fancy looking connectors out there. If you absolutely will not use binding posts, then try the "Speakon" connectors. They handle high current, and they lock in. They also take up a lot of room, so your choice.
-Chris
I see some real fancy looking connectors out there. If you absolutely will not use binding posts, then try the "Speakon" connectors. They handle high current, and they lock in. They also take up a lot of room, so your choice.
-Chris
Yes, those are made by Superior Electric.
http://www.danaherspecialtyproducts...olutions/5-WAY_Binding_Posts/SUPERCON CAT.pdf
Hi Rayma,
Exactly, couldn't remember the brand at the moment. I think HH Smith sells the same basic line of binding posts too.
-Chris
Exactly, couldn't remember the brand at the moment. I think HH Smith sells the same basic line of binding posts too.
-Chris
One of the worst set of 5-way posts i have come across.
Both of these are pretty good for not much money:
More Information Page
More Information Page
The pomona mentioned earlier can be mounted in an accessory carrier that mounts 3 connections togther with standard ¾" spacing. Good for tube amps with 2 taps, put the common in the middle, 4 & 8 ohm (or whatever) on the outside.
We use lots of the 4mm male pomona dual connectors.
dave
Hi Dave,
Yes, those are the same basic idea. I have found that the plastic on the ConneX ones are soft. Some crack after a number of years, not a welcome sight. Dave, would you happen to know what the actual current and voltage ratings are for those? I know they are off-shore, and I never could find real specs on them.
Although the Pomona, HH Smith and Superior Electric models are more expensive, I think they represent a greater value. All of those will last over 30 years in heavy use (not abuse!). Plus the HEX nut heads are more durable than the budget brands are going to be. These are solid brass, not plated. Something to think about. There is a reason why a high volume part used in industry is more expensive than a low volume part aimed at the audio community is.
-Chris
Yes, those are the same basic idea. I have found that the plastic on the ConneX ones are soft. Some crack after a number of years, not a welcome sight. Dave, would you happen to know what the actual current and voltage ratings are for those? I know they are off-shore, and I never could find real specs on them.
Although the Pomona, HH Smith and Superior Electric models are more expensive, I think they represent a greater value. All of those will last over 30 years in heavy use (not abuse!). Plus the HEX nut heads are more durable than the budget brands are going to be. These are solid brass, not plated. Something to think about. There is a reason why a high volume part used in industry is more expensive than a low volume part aimed at the audio community is.
-Chris
May I suggest Neutrik Speakon:
speakON Chassis Connectors - Neutrik
Very inexpensive, but works great, and gives very stable connection.
To me, it is the only thing that makes sense, and it has the added benefit of making it impossible to short circuit the cables, and thereby destroying your amplifier.
speakON Chassis Connectors - Neutrik
Very inexpensive, but works great, and gives very stable connection.
To me, it is the only thing that makes sense, and it has the added benefit of making it impossible to short circuit the cables, and thereby destroying your amplifier.
I've had good luck with Keystone binding posts from Mouser. Them come in gold or nickel, single or dual 3/4" spacing, #8 or #10 stud size, fairly inexpensive too. Many colors also available.
Craig
Craig
Really? Why? I find them awesome. Super heavy build quality with great precision and reasonable cost.
Attachments
Keystone 4109 nylon brass
Pomona 3750 polycarbonate brass
HH Smith 1814-RB polycarbonate brass
Superior BP30-BR polycarbonate brass
Mueller BU-00283 nylon brass
AIE Inc 502018 nylon brass
Parts Express 090-475 ? ?
Philmore 2374B ? ?
Grayhill 29 series Thermoset plastic per MIL–M–14, Type CFG
Pomona 3750 polycarbonate brass
HH Smith 1814-RB polycarbonate brass
Superior BP30-BR polycarbonate brass
Mueller BU-00283 nylon brass
AIE Inc 502018 nylon brass
Parts Express 090-475 ? ?
Philmore 2374B ? ?
Grayhill 29 series Thermoset plastic per MIL–M–14, Type CFG
I think Tellurium also improves the machinability of copper.
I've been using Superior Electric binding posts for decades,
and have a lot of them in my stock, but I think I'll use these
Pomonas in my present build of the F6.
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Hi rayma,
It might, I can't say. I've used mostly HH Smith and Superior most often. They have been great with the abuse they can take. The electrical connections are great. I use ring terminals with a section removed near the ferule to make a "C". The contact area is extremely high. Difficult to beat them. It's nice that they hang by themselves )as opposed to spade terminals).
-Chris
It might, I can't say. I've used mostly HH Smith and Superior most often. They have been great with the abuse they can take. The electrical connections are great. I use ring terminals with a section removed near the ferule to make a "C". The contact area is extremely high. Difficult to beat them. It's nice that they hang by themselves )as opposed to spade terminals).
-Chris
That's a pet peeve. It is much better to have a removable cap and use a ring terminal instead of a spade.
Much better and more uniform contact. That said, you can get a special spade with a quasi-locking feature,
where it won't fall off the barrel, like what you do with cutting out a segment of the ring.
file:///home/chronos/u-ba0979a3ce3421c5ab65a854a2128c53400eedb3/Downloads/ENG_CD_52430_H.pdf
Hi rayma,
I can't see your file.
For more fixed applications, I do remove the cap and use a full ring terminal (now a dedicated cable). The cut ring is a cross between a good connection and convenience. Being a compromise, it does both things okay but not the best at either. I have to admit that I like the cut ring better than spades (which I use with barrier strips). I really like using barrier strips, even for signals in industrial settings. Everything seems to have a purpose and area where they are well suited. I use ring terminals with barrier strips on the load side, the source gets spade connectors in hopes of avoiding an accident.
I'd like to see what you have on chronos.
-Chris
I can't see your file.
For more fixed applications, I do remove the cap and use a full ring terminal (now a dedicated cable). The cut ring is a cross between a good connection and convenience. Being a compromise, it does both things okay but not the best at either. I have to admit that I like the cut ring better than spades (which I use with barrier strips). I really like using barrier strips, even for signals in industrial settings. Everything seems to have a purpose and area where they are well suited. I use ring terminals with barrier strips on the load side, the source gets spade connectors in hopes of avoiding an accident.
I'd like to see what you have on chronos.
-Chris
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