It's also called a spade spring terminal, but most companies make a version of it, 3M, etc.
53240-1 TE Connectivity AMP Connectors | A27440-ND | DigiKey
http://media.digikey.com/photos/Tyco Photos/53240-1.JPG
http://hollingsworth.com/wp-content...es/Hollingsworth_Terminal_Selection_Guide.pdf
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Hi rayma,
Those things! Yes, I have used them before. I don't dislike them, but if I need something in a hurry, those are not stocked often. I usually just default to the cut ring if these spades aren't available. I didn't know what they were properly called.
Your last link is helpful. The hook terminal is the closest to what I do by hand. The Block spade is what I have to tell the guys to get. May as well use them all the time. I also see something like the butt connector we use, but called a "parallel" where the wires pass each other. Now that is a cool idea. It would work better, and we often have to go between stranded and solid wire types.
Many thanks rayma!
-Chris
Those things! Yes, I have used them before. I don't dislike them, but if I need something in a hurry, those are not stocked often. I usually just default to the cut ring if these spades aren't available. I didn't know what they were properly called.
Your last link is helpful. The hook terminal is the closest to what I do by hand. The Block spade is what I have to tell the guys to get. May as well use them all the time. I also see something like the butt connector we use, but called a "parallel" where the wires pass each other. Now that is a cool idea. It would work better, and we often have to go between stranded and solid wire types.
Many thanks rayma!
-Chris
When using barrier terminal strips, it's very important to use the right terminals,
or the barriers can break right off, due to stress from the edge of the terminal.
Audio Research had lots of problems in their early amps using Cinch barrier strips
for the outputs. When customers used the wrong terminals, the barrier would break off,
and then there could be a short between two adjacent output tap screws.
Hi rayma,
Yes. I had to teach our guys to butt the connectors together on the ends and to make certain they didn't climb up onto the opposite one. Also, not to crank the screws down! We always checked to make certain the terminals would fit in between the ribs. We haven't lost even one barrier strip.
Have you seen the "European" style where the terminals are molded in translucent nylon and each screw was inside a turret-like mold? When I was off, one of our lazy guys went in and replaced some barrier strips with those pieces of junk. Where there was that shorting bar, he used loops of wire, but excessively long. Now the wiring looks like child did it. Why he replaced the existing barrier strips I'll never know. But, he did. That site has 810 watts of Bogen PA power. It's one of the smaller installations as the main plant has over 3,000 watts of power.
-Chris
Yes. I had to teach our guys to butt the connectors together on the ends and to make certain they didn't climb up onto the opposite one. Also, not to crank the screws down! We always checked to make certain the terminals would fit in between the ribs. We haven't lost even one barrier strip.
Have you seen the "European" style where the terminals are molded in translucent nylon and each screw was inside a turret-like mold? When I was off, one of our lazy guys went in and replaced some barrier strips with those pieces of junk. Where there was that shorting bar, he used loops of wire, but excessively long. Now the wiring looks like child did it. Why he replaced the existing barrier strips I'll never know. But, he did. That site has 810 watts of Bogen PA power. It's one of the smaller installations as the main plant has over 3,000 watts of power.
I always thought people did that with poor screwdriver (slot) positioning. You learn something new every day.
-Chris
Yes, if you use too wide a screwdriver blade, or crank it when the blade is off-center, the barrier will snap right off.
Sometimes you can super glue the barrier back on, if it's a clean break.
Hi rayma,
I gave up on that. Typically it would be broken off and lost anyway. Either that or they would do it again. I should try "Gorilla Glue" on this.
-Chris
I gave up on that. Typically it would be broken off and lost anyway. Either that or they would do it again. I should try "Gorilla Glue" on this.
-Chris
Their name is now: Abbatron / HH Smith, which is based in PA, so it looks like they are still made in USA.
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