Eduard
I have read your link, but can't say I understand it completely.
My dddac have 4 board without shunts. It draws 410-420mA. When both Lundahl 1694 chokes are connected, I measure around 19vdc, using a 15v-300va R-core trafo. In other words, voltage drop is only 2volt after passing the chokes and caps, but before the bleeder.
After the 56R bleeder (70w), I get 13.3vdc before dac input, and 11.7 with dac load.
So it seems to me that the 1694 chokes have to low inductance for a perfect choke input, since the bleeder do most of the job to regulate voltage down.
Maybe a higher V rated trafo and a first choke with more Henry is the way to go ?
Anyway it sounds very good as it is.
I have read your link, but can't say I understand it completely.
My dddac have 4 board without shunts. It draws 410-420mA. When both Lundahl 1694 chokes are connected, I measure around 19vdc, using a 15v-300va R-core trafo. In other words, voltage drop is only 2volt after passing the chokes and caps, but before the bleeder.
After the 56R bleeder (70w), I get 13.3vdc before dac input, and 11.7 with dac load.
So it seems to me that the 1694 chokes have to low inductance for a perfect choke input, since the bleeder do most of the job to regulate voltage down.
Maybe a higher V rated trafo and a first choke with more Henry is the way to go ?
Anyway it sounds very good as it is.
My DDDAC
Hi All
I'm new to this thread and to this forum. Unlike the experienced DIYers on this thread, I've never built anything like this before, so I chose to buy the assembled boards. So, rather than a 'build', I call what I have done – choosing the case, sockets and so on, and connecting everything together with the small amount of soldering - an 'integration'.
I find the sound is full, and with realistic levels of bass, unlike most of the oversampling DACs I've heard. It is more like the non-oversampling TDA1541 in my CD player and TDA1543 in my Moodlab Dice DAC in that respect. However, it manages to extract higher level of details from recordings, and of course, has the ability to play high-resolution music.
I'm attaching some photos below.
I would like to thank Doede and the Audio Creative people for the design and providing the assembled board option, so that novices like myself can have a DDDAC. Of course, it is not the same as the full self-build option, but I still feel some of that same pride when I turn it on and it works!
You can see that I'm currently running the WaveIO from AA NiMH batteries. This was just to give me a flavour of the DDDAC's capabilities, not a long-term solution. Now I've decided I like the sound, I need to move to phase 2!
My DDDAC is pretty standard at the moment (apart from the 5V battery supply). I have the standard 12V power supply, standard S/PDIF mainboard with 2 decks, and the WaveIO. Output is through the standard Mundorf capacitors supplied in the kit.
I am definitely going to buy the 5V power supply, but I am wondering about output options. My pre-amp, a Naim NAC 62, is single-ended only, so I ruled out any balanced only output solutions. I was considering either:
1. The Cinemag 15b transformers.
2. The Mundorf Silver Gold Oil caps.
The prices are similar. The Cinemags would allow me to use both positive and negative DAC outputs. Capacitor output, however good the capacitors, is only using half of the DAC output (for my single-ended outputs, I mean). So, that pushes me towards the Cinemags. However, earlier on this epic thread opinions were divided as to whether a standard 2 deck DDDAC was adequate to drive the Cinemags or whether it would sound thin. Now there is more experience with this DAC, is there more of a consensus about this?
Kind regards
- Garry
Hi All
I'm new to this thread and to this forum. Unlike the experienced DIYers on this thread, I've never built anything like this before, so I chose to buy the assembled boards. So, rather than a 'build', I call what I have done – choosing the case, sockets and so on, and connecting everything together with the small amount of soldering - an 'integration'.
I find the sound is full, and with realistic levels of bass, unlike most of the oversampling DACs I've heard. It is more like the non-oversampling TDA1541 in my CD player and TDA1543 in my Moodlab Dice DAC in that respect. However, it manages to extract higher level of details from recordings, and of course, has the ability to play high-resolution music.
I'm attaching some photos below.
I would like to thank Doede and the Audio Creative people for the design and providing the assembled board option, so that novices like myself can have a DDDAC. Of course, it is not the same as the full self-build option, but I still feel some of that same pride when I turn it on and it works!
You can see that I'm currently running the WaveIO from AA NiMH batteries. This was just to give me a flavour of the DDDAC's capabilities, not a long-term solution. Now I've decided I like the sound, I need to move to phase 2!
My DDDAC is pretty standard at the moment (apart from the 5V battery supply). I have the standard 12V power supply, standard S/PDIF mainboard with 2 decks, and the WaveIO. Output is through the standard Mundorf capacitors supplied in the kit.
I am definitely going to buy the 5V power supply, but I am wondering about output options. My pre-amp, a Naim NAC 62, is single-ended only, so I ruled out any balanced only output solutions. I was considering either:
1. The Cinemag 15b transformers.
2. The Mundorf Silver Gold Oil caps.
The prices are similar. The Cinemags would allow me to use both positive and negative DAC outputs. Capacitor output, however good the capacitors, is only using half of the DAC output (for my single-ended outputs, I mean). So, that pushes me towards the Cinemags. However, earlier on this epic thread opinions were divided as to whether a standard 2 deck DDDAC was adequate to drive the Cinemags or whether it would sound thin. Now there is more experience with this DAC, is there more of a consensus about this?
Kind regards
- Garry
Attachments
Hello smoothdancer,
I remember getting around 10,5 volts dc output just using one ll1694 as choke input and drawing about 1,3 A. Adding another ll1694 as a second filter will give me another extra voltage drop.
So now having 21 volt transformer ll2733 as choke input ( 400mH 3,4 ohm) around 50mA bleeder current . Second choke ll1694 windings in parallel to reduce voltage drop ( 40mH 0,45 ohm) circuit current 1,1A output voltage around 11,4 volt.
So lots of mH will give you the necissity of getting a higher voltage transformer. Especially with shunts and multiple boards the voltage drop is big.
Now i will wait for new boards. I think if lundahl will ever come with a more mH choke i might give it a try.
With higher mH your minimum current needed to bleed will sink so easier to accomplish the advice given in this article.
BUT if you like the sound now dont bother to much ! Getting a ll2733 will also mean another transformer.
Greetings, Eduard
P.S. Stefan ( supersurfer) will get my '' old '' 300va 2*15 volts r core. Let us see what his ideas will be.
I remember getting around 10,5 volts dc output just using one ll1694 as choke input and drawing about 1,3 A. Adding another ll1694 as a second filter will give me another extra voltage drop.
So now having 21 volt transformer ll2733 as choke input ( 400mH 3,4 ohm) around 50mA bleeder current . Second choke ll1694 windings in parallel to reduce voltage drop ( 40mH 0,45 ohm) circuit current 1,1A output voltage around 11,4 volt.
So lots of mH will give you the necissity of getting a higher voltage transformer. Especially with shunts and multiple boards the voltage drop is big.
Now i will wait for new boards. I think if lundahl will ever come with a more mH choke i might give it a try.
With higher mH your minimum current needed to bleed will sink so easier to accomplish the advice given in this article.
BUT if you like the sound now dont bother to much ! Getting a ll2733 will also mean another transformer.
Greetings, Eduard
P.S. Stefan ( supersurfer) will get my '' old '' 300va 2*15 volts r core. Let us see what his ideas will be.
USB Silver solid core
Just assembled my USB silver solid core cable. I've got these wires in teflon insulation from polish manufacturer Sonus Oliva Annd you won't translate it with google :-/
Prices are in polish zl. At the moment 1m of 4N 0,57mm diameter silver solid core wire with teflon insulation sleeve already on, costs aprox 4,50€ and 1,2mm costs 15€, bigger diameters available. If anyone wished to buy some from there, is more than welcome to contact me, I will help you with a purchase. I have bought from there my diy interconnects, and they are replacing my old Siltechs (stranded wire) at the moment. To my ears and even with cheap Neutric plugs mounted they sound better.
1,2mm and 0.57mm
Just assembled my USB silver solid core cable. I've got these wires in teflon insulation from polish manufacturer Sonus Oliva Annd you won't translate it with google :-/
Prices are in polish zl. At the moment 1m of 4N 0,57mm diameter silver solid core wire with teflon insulation sleeve already on, costs aprox 4,50€ and 1,2mm costs 15€, bigger diameters available. If anyone wished to buy some from there, is more than welcome to contact me, I will help you with a purchase. I have bought from there my diy interconnects, and they are replacing my old Siltechs (stranded wire) at the moment. To my ears and even with cheap Neutric plugs mounted they sound better.
1,2mm and 0.57mm
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I managed to take a reading: 4.5 mA, which is similar to IL715 specs. With 5V, it should be around 7 mA.
D3nsityD3nt I have also crafted a USB cable, but I didn't connect the 5V and Gnd cables.
Just the two data.
Just the two data.
Is it going to make a difference? I didn't think about it, now when you say this I have realized that 5V comes from a psu. I mean any commercial cable has 5V always on. You say that 5V from computer and 5V from psu collide? Or WaveIo is receiving dirty current from PC and that can influence overall performance of a dac?
And it worked? My experiments showed that the lack of GND connection on USB cable will force any WaveIO plugged into my laptop to be unrecognizable by it. Restoring the GND connection solved the 'issue'. The only case where I could remove GND wire and see WaveIO working was after the enumeration process.... but it last until I had to unplug the board... After that I had to start over again rewiring USB GND...
WaveIO does have protection diodes on each power rail regardless if it comes from USB Bus or is external. Moreover the J12 jumper on each WaveIO cards will switch between USB power and external power. Unless you will short out that jumper with a wire, you cannot make USB power and external power to be connected together.
Kind regards,
L
Thanks Lorien, this makes it clear. That's what I thought, there is no need to take the 5V away.
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I am sure it's probably in this thread somewhere. But can someone Tell where to get a nice case for the dddac. I have seen a few very nice builds with writing on the front that looks silk screened
D3nsityD3nt I don't know if it's making a difference, but it's working flawlessly.
Looks to me like a good way to recycle a balanced interconnect cable.
Looks to me like a good way to recycle a balanced interconnect cable.
You could also try Pureplayer, i think it's the best, JRiver coming second.
http://www.purediy.gr/downloads/pp.html
http://www.purediy.gr/downloads/pp.html
I think no 1 is Schaeffer AG: Housings . Some downloads with designs made by Doede, also including native design application you can find here DDDAC 1794 NOS DAC - Non Oversampling DAC with PCM1794 - no digital filter - modular design DIY DAC for high resolution audio 192/24 192kHz 24bit All worked out for dddac owners already, any hole and measurement. This is what you saw in the forum most probably.
Then there are Hi-Fi 2000 contenitori per l'elettronica, case modding HTPC, Galaxy, rack, DIYaudio, computer cases, front panel express, knobs,milled Handles, milled fronts, hi-end, for simple cases is ok, but big cases with radiators are imho not so well done, I gave mine to trusted workshop to workout shortcomings of their design. Front/back panel engraving, hole punching and machine job is done with top quality though.
And then you can try this one METCASE | Aluminium Enclosures | 19" Rack Cases
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Digital PPS Film bypass caps
I rebuilt my original DDDAC boards to include all the changes I have been making with my other 2 DAC's to see if the improvements in SQ were repeated. The main change was to replace all the digital 0.1uf PET film caps with 0.068uf PPS film caps. I had already replaced the 0.1uf PET caps on the analog side with 0.022uf WIMA FKP2 PP film and foil caps. Because all these caps are larger than the PET's, all but one had to be installed through the bottom of the DDDAC board. I also removed all unused components from the DDDAC board. See pictures below. Film caps were also replaced with PPS caps on the red main board and 1/2 clock delay board. The only real difference between the two boards is that I have Belleson digital Vregs on the original board and ADM7150 DIY Vregs on the first board tested with PPS film caps. Both boards used the same chassis and power supplies including the 3 Salases for the 8V and +/-12V buffer.
IMO the SQ change was the same as I heard with my first DAC with PPS film caps. See http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digit...ml#post4239418.
One change in SQ with PPS caps is that the difference between 96KHZ and 192KHZ recordings is more distinguishable with the 192KHZ recordings having more musical nuance and ambiance.
I hope somewhere in DDDAC land someone else will try PPS bypass caps on the digital circuitry to see if they experience what I heard. The mouser part number is 80-SMR5683J100J03L4 and costs about $1usd each in quantities of 10 or more for through-the-hole PPS capacitors. I needed 15 of them.
I rebuilt my original DDDAC boards to include all the changes I have been making with my other 2 DAC's to see if the improvements in SQ were repeated. The main change was to replace all the digital 0.1uf PET film caps with 0.068uf PPS film caps. I had already replaced the 0.1uf PET caps on the analog side with 0.022uf WIMA FKP2 PP film and foil caps. Because all these caps are larger than the PET's, all but one had to be installed through the bottom of the DDDAC board. I also removed all unused components from the DDDAC board. See pictures below. Film caps were also replaced with PPS caps on the red main board and 1/2 clock delay board. The only real difference between the two boards is that I have Belleson digital Vregs on the original board and ADM7150 DIY Vregs on the first board tested with PPS film caps. Both boards used the same chassis and power supplies including the 3 Salases for the 8V and +/-12V buffer.
IMO the SQ change was the same as I heard with my first DAC with PPS film caps. See http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digit...ml#post4239418.
One change in SQ with PPS caps is that the difference between 96KHZ and 192KHZ recordings is more distinguishable with the 192KHZ recordings having more musical nuance and ambiance.
I hope somewhere in DDDAC land someone else will try PPS bypass caps on the digital circuitry to see if they experience what I heard. The mouser part number is 80-SMR5683J100J03L4 and costs about $1usd each in quantities of 10 or more for through-the-hole PPS capacitors. I needed 15 of them.
Attachments
Previous Post on PPS bypass caps
This forum link do not come through properly in previous post.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...e-board-pcm1794-nos-dddac-42.html#post4239418
This forum link do not come through properly in previous post.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...e-board-pcm1794-nos-dddac-42.html#post4239418
R-core or toroidal trafo, what's best in ddac ?
Only on way to find out, just try both and let you ears be the judge.
I have been using a 250va toroidal from 'Toriody', no humming, and dead silent. A few days ago I replaced it with a 300va R-core trafo.
Not easy to describe the difference in SQ, if any. But i feel the dac sounds more relaxed, kind of more analog. All of the strengts dddac is known for is in place, but I can play louder than before before things get messy. Kind of more headroom, yes I know it sounds silly, but that's my opinion so far. Time will tell if I'm wrong.
Thanks to eduard who was so kind to helpe me getting info from Selectronic. The french company is no good example in customer feedback when writing to them in English.
Only on way to find out, just try both and let you ears be the judge.
I have been using a 250va toroidal from 'Toriody', no humming, and dead silent. A few days ago I replaced it with a 300va R-core trafo.
Not easy to describe the difference in SQ, if any. But i feel the dac sounds more relaxed, kind of more analog. All of the strengts dddac is known for is in place, but I can play louder than before before things get messy. Kind of more headroom, yes I know it sounds silly, but that's my opinion so far. Time will tell if I'm wrong.
Thanks to eduard who was so kind to helpe me getting info from Selectronic. The french company is no good example in customer feedback when writing to them in English.
Hi Ross
Thanks for the pictures, very informative and MUCH easier to follow than descriptions alone
Thanks for the pictures, very informative and MUCH easier to follow than descriptions alone
2 deck DDDAC: Cinemags versus capacitor
Is anyone able to offer an answer, please?😱
Is anyone able to offer an answer, please?😱
Hi Glan,
My experiance at least, using two decks/cinemags , that the sound has much more weight, is fuller than using capacitors. Even one deck/cinemags improves, though Ross and James advice the use of a buffer in that case, loading the cinemags in a better way....