Is anyone tried Sure's mono tpa3116 boards?
Sure Electronics' webstore 1 X 100Watt Class D Audio Amplifier Board -TPA3116
Sure Electronics' webstore 1 X 100Watt Class D Audio Amplifier Board -TPA3116
Just looking at that board. Looks interesting. I have one of the old Sure TK-2050 boards and in my estimation it's pretty good. Sounds warm, fuss free, powerful, and not noisy (quiet background in other words).
On this new 3116 monoblock board...It appears there's a spot to wire up a mute switch as well as an area to wire up for the incoming DC power.
I assume since there is some sort of a mute function this thing will make a heck of a turn-on snap if a separate mute switch is not turned on before the main power switch?
Can anyone sketch out how these two switches would wire into the 24VDC power. I'm kind of thick when it comes to this sort of thing.
If you guys have evidence that the mute switch would not really be necessary, then great. Simpler is better.
Thanks,
Mark
On this new 3116 monoblock board...It appears there's a spot to wire up a mute switch as well as an area to wire up for the incoming DC power.
I assume since there is some sort of a mute function this thing will make a heck of a turn-on snap if a separate mute switch is not turned on before the main power switch?
Can anyone sketch out how these two switches would wire into the 24VDC power. I'm kind of thick when it comes to this sort of thing.
If you guys have evidence that the mute switch would not really be necessary, then great. Simpler is better.
Thanks,
Mark
![aa-ab31183_5_b[1].jpg](/community/data/attachments/425/425817-5213d7f6e8181c473bbcee7407359b1d.jpg?hash=UhPX9ugYHE)
DC normally would go bottomside board with plug or wires...but topside with wires seems possible too. mute connected to standby should mute amp, standby connected to gnd shoud put amp in standby I suppose, didn't try with this pcb. Power ON plop is non existant with Sure3116 on my speakers, power OFF gives a cracking noise, not really comparable with plop other 3116 ampboards I own.
I have the board shown in my earlier post HERE
And when in use it produces a random "click" every so often- about once a minute or so, but random, not regular and not associated with the audio that is playing. I looked at it on my 'scope and it is a little pulse of ~10 kHz sine waves, maybe 5 cycles total. Makes a sound like an LP click or pop.
I am using a regulated linear supply at 22 volts. This board has the "snubber" SMD resistor+cap for each channel on the bottom of the board.
Any suggestions on how to stop these clicks?
And when in use it produces a random "click" every so often- about once a minute or so, but random, not regular and not associated with the audio that is playing. I looked at it on my 'scope and it is a little pulse of ~10 kHz sine waves, maybe 5 cycles total. Makes a sound like an LP click or pop.
I am using a regulated linear supply at 22 volts. This board has the "snubber" SMD resistor+cap for each channel on the bottom of the board.
Any suggestions on how to stop these clicks?
yj blue hums
I realize this might be a totally easy problem. But I am almost total zero when it comes to circuits.
My YJ blue was working well with a small netbook brick (19.5V 1A) maybe up to 3W output in my small living room. I wanted to demo it at a friend's house so I brought it over. Unfortunately, I forgot the brick and had to use a smaller 9V 850mA PS which was all he had lying around, just to give him a listen. We did not push the amp at all, just had a listen.
When I brought the thing home, I was shocked and saddened 'cause all I'm getting now is hum. Maybe AC harmonic.
Is the amp toast? Hope there's something that can be done.
I realize this might be a totally easy problem. But I am almost total zero when it comes to circuits.
My YJ blue was working well with a small netbook brick (19.5V 1A) maybe up to 3W output in my small living room. I wanted to demo it at a friend's house so I brought it over. Unfortunately, I forgot the brick and had to use a smaller 9V 850mA PS which was all he had lying around, just to give him a listen. We did not push the amp at all, just had a listen.
When I brought the thing home, I was shocked and saddened 'cause all I'm getting now is hum. Maybe AC harmonic.
Is the amp toast? Hope there's something that can be done.
Click / Pop
Click / pop is only in one channel, left channel, which otherwise works OK. Connections are all solid. Tapping on the amp or shaking it have no effect, doesn't seem related to mechanical / connection type issue.
Click / pop is only in one channel, left channel, which otherwise works OK. Connections are all solid. Tapping on the amp or shaking it have no effect, doesn't seem related to mechanical / connection type issue.
Can I be lazy?
I have not followed this thread for a long time. I have been away from audio and my Sure TPA3116.
Anything new? New manufacturers? New boards? New upgrades? Pop-up noise issue? Anybody will at least tell me something that is worth to mention? Thanks!
I have not followed this thread for a long time. I have been away from audio and my Sure TPA3116.
Anything new? New manufacturers? New boards? New upgrades? Pop-up noise issue? Anybody will at least tell me something that is worth to mention? Thanks!
OK Lazy, check out the SMSL 60 for a complete unit. SMSL SA-60 60WPC TPA3116 Class D Digital Amplifier HiFi Air Core Inductance Desktop Amplifier - Professional Audio Store - Shenzhenaudio.com Probably not quite up to the best of the best modded units but you did say you were lazy (me too sometimes)
Thank you! I just came from a run and wanted to listen to music but I do not have my set up. Of course, missing my system, I remembered my TPA3116. Thank you again for understanding me🙂
I had the SMLS SA-36PRO (that was the model, right?) which was very nice but I liked the Sure's 3116 better. However, this looks promising! I may get one of these once I have access to my system again.
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10khz, maybe somebody knows what that could be?
completely defective 1nF styrene I had in outputfilter long time ago "ticked" very loud every second, maybe stacked film, bad layer???, tiny snubber 330pF ceramics could have a crack?
with my 1nF, removing all input signal connections to pcb changed tone ticking and loudness, became tocking, a little lower, looked like conespeaker was at maximum outside frame too, maybe that was tonedifference?, much further than ever with music, impressively loud for tiny 1nF capacitor I thought.
Even though I dearly love to "tinker" and have way way too many different audio devices on my shelves to tinker with, I also appreciate having a simple "grab it and go" device to give me an easy way to share tunes with friends. I think the SMSL has all that and fits nicely in a travel bag too!
Hmmm. Sounds like a good place to start. I'll check the capacitors. Thanks.
And I'll re-solder some solder joints too, in case there's a bad joint.
I am interested in this too. I have a sure stereo board now but am tempted to try out mono's instead.
colleagues,
I'm already over a year trying to increase the power of my prototype and I can not.
I'm using 1 x TPA3116D in PBTL, I will try to add the layout of the pcb.
When work on 12V operation is normal, can remove about 32W but when I step to 24V have about 45W, as in the datasheet says I would have 50W at 12V and 100W, 24V.
I do not know what to do.
Can someone help me.
I'm already over a year trying to increase the power of my prototype and I can not.
I'm using 1 x TPA3116D in PBTL, I will try to add the layout of the pcb.
When work on 12V operation is normal, can remove about 32W but when I step to 24V have about 45W, as in the datasheet says I would have 50W at 12V and 100W, 24V.
I do not know what to do.
Can someone help me.
