Self amalgamating tape is not tacky, but has to be stretched slightly to (insert do something clever at the molecular level here) allow it to bond with the layer below.
I have conjoined the three replies to give the correct procedure along with the advice that followed. I hope I got it right
Any corrections required?
Any corrections required?
Looks fine to me Andrew but i still don't like the things very much. They do have one advantage over crimp terminals in that they can easily be removed and replaced, thats about it though.
"Remove about 8 to 10 cm of the insulation of each wire."
Cm was what I wrote and cm what I meant. Check the video.
Cm was what I wrote and cm what I meant. Check the video.
OK, so strip 10 cm, twist and then cut off 9 cm?
In many cases with in-wall wiring, there isn't 9 cm to waste!
In many cases with in-wall wiring, there isn't 9 cm to waste!
With 14 and 12 AWG conductors (romex in my case) you would definitely want something on the order of 25 - 30mm IMLE and the right sized wire nut.
I twist them clockwise with a pair of heavy electrician's pliers, trim if necessary, twist on the wire nut and then wrap a couple of layers of tape around the open end. I learned this from a master electrician some years ago when I assisted him in the rewiring of the second floor of my house. It's really important to use the right size wire nut for the gauge and number of conductors used.
I twist them clockwise with a pair of heavy electrician's pliers, trim if necessary, twist on the wire nut and then wrap a couple of layers of tape around the open end. I learned this from a master electrician some years ago when I assisted him in the rewiring of the second floor of my house. It's really important to use the right size wire nut for the gauge and number of conductors used.
You may both be right.
I have just braved the rain-storm to check in the garage - the ones I bought years ago are tiny, and only suitable for (1mm) lighting circuits.
Out of curiosity, I tried twisting a pair together with pliers, and the optimum length after twisting was 15mm to ensure that no bare wire was exposed but the spiral was fully bottomed into the nut.
I have just braved the rain-storm to check in the garage - the ones I bought years ago are tiny, and only suitable for (1mm) lighting circuits.
Out of curiosity, I tried twisting a pair together with pliers, and the optimum length after twisting was 15mm to ensure that no bare wire was exposed but the spiral was fully bottomed into the nut.
Solid only for fixed wiring.
I think (just checked!) that 6mm for cookers etc is multistranded, probably because it would otherwise be too inflexible.
I think (just checked!) that 6mm for cookers etc is multistranded, probably because it would otherwise be too inflexible.
"In many cases with in-wall wiring, there isn't 9 cm to waste!"
"It is very difficult to twist 4 or 5 short wires together."
"This works fine until you want to add an extra wire."
Really guys, there are much easier ways! I know that many like to twist the wires together before installing the wire into the nut, and I can understand the reason for this.
But why not let the wire nut do the twisting?
Watch: (starting at about 2:40):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJbxGJ8HVFc
And no, I don’t have any connection (haa!) with Ideal, financially or any other way.
I’ve tried a number of different approaches and products, and found these to be easiest, by far, to use.
And no I don’t like “push-in” connectors, personally.
"It is very difficult to twist 4 or 5 short wires together."
"This works fine until you want to add an extra wire."
Really guys, there are much easier ways! I know that many like to twist the wires together before installing the wire into the nut, and I can understand the reason for this.
But why not let the wire nut do the twisting?
Watch: (starting at about 2:40):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJbxGJ8HVFc
And no, I don’t have any connection (haa!) with Ideal, financially or any other way.
I’ve tried a number of different approaches and products, and found these to be easiest, by far, to use.
And no I don’t like “push-in” connectors, personally.
In Holland we use much thicker wire, 1.5 and 2.5 mm^2. The wires do not twist together in the nut in the way shown in the video.
1.5mm^2 equals 15AWG American wire and 2.5mm^2 is 13AWG. 14, 12 and sometimes 10AWG is used routinely in the US. It just takes a little more "oomph" on the larger sizes. That's where the built in tabs on the side of the wire nuts are helpful.
I did notice however, that the video demonstrator used "smallish" wire, although their wire nuts are made for use for up to 8AWG or 3.7mm^2 wire.
I did notice however, that the video demonstrator used "smallish" wire, although their wire nuts are made for use for up to 8AWG or 3.7mm^2 wire.
the UK
uses solid core for 1mm², 1.5mm² & 2.5mm². They come in 2core (insulated) + bare earth. There is also 3core (insulated) + bare earth, particularly 1.5mm² for lighting circuits with a switching wire (yellow).
There may be other combinations, but I have not used, nor seen them.
4mm² and above generally comes in stranded.
7 cores is common for these bigger sizes.
Not to mention that it's very hard to do anywhere near that amount with auto strippers.
My other hate is scotch lock connectors - 20 Red Blue Scotch Lock Connectors Ten of Each | eBay
They are often found in bungled car wiring additions and even worse in motorbike or boat wiring. They should have been banned years ago. I've even come across them in attempted house wiring repairs. They are the mark of a true amateur and guaranteed to cause corrosion.
They are often found in bungled car wiring additions and even worse in motorbike or boat wiring. They should have been banned years ago. I've even come across them in attempted house wiring repairs. They are the mark of a true amateur and guaranteed to cause corrosion.
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