Thank you SpeakerFrank! 🙂
As I only have two of these drivers, and would like for them to go into the 20ish hertz, I believe I need a longer horn, like the one Bjorno simulated.
As I only have two of these drivers, and would like for them to go into the 20ish hertz, I believe I need a longer horn, like the one Bjorno simulated.
To be honest, if you want something around 20 Hz, you should look for a different driver! The 24" PD is not intended as a driver for 20Hz reproduction!
With "20ish" I meant into the 20-30 Herz range 🙂
The Bjorno-simulation on page 1 goes more than low enough 🙂
The Bjorno-simulation on page 1 goes more than low enough 🙂
You can simulate nearly any driver in any possible target (enclosure type). But that does not means it makes allways sense or is practical! But they are your drivers and if you want to slaughter them its your choice!
I appreciate your concern, and have no experience in this field myself.
My drivers are for domestic use, i.e. not used above 110 dB @ 1 meter in the most extreme incidents: will the drivers not handle this?
My drivers are for domestic use, i.e. not used above 110 dB @ 1 meter in the most extreme incidents: will the drivers not handle this?
Then easyly, but then I would go for a well designed ported enclosure for the 2450`s! I dont know how big is the room, what amplification you do use and what kind of controlling (Xover,EQs and other corrections)! And most important, what should they do. Musik or Homecinema or both?
I'd like to see the BR design that is 1hz safe with 42 watts??? As you can see, a T-TQWT is no harder to build than a BR enclosure. Not including bracing, they both require 7 boards minimum. The T-TQWT will sound better.
@BP1 One thing first, I am not that familiar with these shorts, so what is T-TQWT?
The T-Thinggy sounds better? How do you know that? For what the hell is a 1Hz range nessesary use or sensefull???
The T-Thinggy sounds better? How do you know that? For what the hell is a 1Hz range nessesary use or sensefull???
Hi BP1Fanatic,
Agree fully!
Very busy for the moment..But adding a few more pictures:
b🙂
Attachments
Tapped Horn = positive flare.
Tapped Quarter Wave Pipe = straight flare.
Tapped Tapered Quarter Wave Tube = negative flare.
I built a T-TQWT!
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Ah yes, and this one that you build and that is shown on the pic is for the PD2450? By the way, picture doesent open, so very small! Sadly
No, it's a Kicker 08S15L74. The point is I built a T-TQWT.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/204968-t-tqwt-double-fold-question.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/204968-t-tqwt-double-fold-question.html
Okay , its your woofer, I dont doubt that you build it. But I do doubt that the PD2450 will work at its possible best in such an enclosure! Thats all!!!
Why don't you try modeling the woofer in a BR enclosure in HR, compare it to bjorno's models, and see if you can get the same or better performance? To be fair, make sure the BR's volumes match the T-TQWT's volumes.
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By the way, I don't run a high pass filter on my T-TQWT. I think I'm only running about 150wrms to each 4ohm coil off an old Yamaha HTR in stereo mode connected to my Pioneer HTR's sub output. I've cracked all 4 walls in my lower level and the doorway wall to the master bedroom above it.
The volume on the Yamaha is at -6 while the sub level at 12 (max) on the Pioneer. I can't recall how high the volume is on the Pioneer, but I've never been above 50. Let me check my phone since I have the manual loaded on it in a pdf file.
You like to see your own posts right??? It dont doubt that you TQ thinggy is safe at
1 Hz with 125 W. I only dont see a reason for a 1Hz performance, for what is that use or sensefull??? Who needs 1 Hz???
1 Hz with 125 W. I only dont see a reason for a 1Hz performance, for what is that use or sensefull??? Who needs 1 Hz???
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