Will anything added effect the sound or bass, fancy thick wooden plinth but would this have any effect on sound?
@Chrisb,
what makes the diferent (maybe the sound) betw. the front about the left and the right speaker? or is it just for the optic?
what makes the diferent (maybe the sound) betw. the front about the left and the right speaker? or is it just for the optic?
I am not really sure what your question is, but the FH3 on the left has the optional supraBaffle for easy driver swap (althou the A7 MOAP now own this set, we had to build another). An sB is possible for the FHXL.
dave
dave
I think Dave was replying to Peter's query
I can't answer re plinths - but would guess that it couldn't hurt. For stability, the FH3 do benefit from contact footprint wider than the enclosure's approx 6 3/4" . The FHXL are approx 9 1/2" - depending on thickness of material in side panels, and not as "wobbly" on the same surface as the FH3
As for spikes, " needed" in terms of enhancing sonics? - I'm agnostic on that. Again, if you're so inclined, and careful enough in siting and moving them around so as to avoid flooring damage - knock yourself out.
Of course I have no objective measures to validate any of the above.
I can't answer re plinths - but would guess that it couldn't hurt. For stability, the FH3 do benefit from contact footprint wider than the enclosure's approx 6 3/4" . The FHXL are approx 9 1/2" - depending on thickness of material in side panels, and not as "wobbly" on the same surface as the FH3
As for spikes, " needed" in terms of enhancing sonics? - I'm agnostic on that. Again, if you're so inclined, and careful enough in siting and moving them around so as to avoid flooring damage - knock yourself out.
Of course I have no objective measures to validate any of the above.
@Planet10, @chrisb,
I will try to build the front like the left speaker for my frugel with the fostex fe168ez.
I will try to build the front like the left speaker for my frugel with the fostex fe168ez.
I asked earlier about internal wiring, answer was cat 5 cable, not knowing what that was looked it up and it seems to be a multi strand coms cable, is this correct? And how do you terminate the strands, do you strip and twist together all the single wires or strip and use the very thing single strand?
Sorry if daft question. Any other recommendations that work?
Sorry if daft question. Any other recommendations that work?
for internal wiring, some of us get as silly as stripping the 4 pairs down to a single #24 conductor per polarity - for typical location of terminals on FH3, there's probably less than 1ft length required
Is there a specific reason why cat 5 cable is prefered? I'm not much of a cable junkie more a sceptic to be honest, used to have £1000's worth then did a whole day blind testing with cables from £3 per m to £100 per m. 7 sets in total and non of us. ( 6 ) could tell a difference, so I sold up and use £3 per m cable talk 3 been fine in every system I have had since. Spent money on music
I think that most of us using the CAT5 (myself for well over 10yrs) like the stupidly cheap cost, and I've yet to hear the deleterious effects that some folks maintain will occur with the tightly twisted pairs.
In over 50yrs, I've used everything from 300 ohm twin lead antenna wire to rusty coat hangers, with varying degrees of success - well only joking on the coat hangers - the only wire with which I've had problems was the infamous Polk / Cobra braided cable.
Might have been non-problematic for some folks, but certainly not the case for me - was PS Audio bricks in mono, driving either Acoustat II or Spica SC50 if I recall correctly - but that was over 30yrs ago, and yes there was some inhaling at the time - so, anyways ...
In over 50yrs, I've used everything from 300 ohm twin lead antenna wire to rusty coat hangers, with varying degrees of success - well only joking on the coat hangers - the only wire with which I've had problems was the infamous Polk / Cobra braided cable.
Might have been non-problematic for some folks, but certainly not the case for me - was PS Audio bricks in mono, driving either Acoustat II or Spica SC50 if I recall correctly - but that was over 30yrs ago, and yes there was some inhaling at the time - so, anyways ...
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Edit -Chris beat me to it.
Largely because it's very cheap, solid core, and a simple way of getting multiple small gauge conductors so lots of flexibility for people to do different things, if they are so inclined.
Largely because it's very cheap, solid core, and a simple way of getting multiple small gauge conductors so lots of flexibility for people to do different things, if they are so inclined.
And the reason it is cheap has little to do with quality (very good) and a lot to do with us hifi guys riding on the backs of billions of miles sold into IT.
dave
Been reading some postes on the markaudio bit on this forum, and some users are talking about glueing the front cover on it using in the speaker cut out. i have allowed for this in the front baffle, does this plastic cover need gued on? i thought the screws held it in place ( but havent really looked at them in great detail, they are still in boxes while breaking in the drivers)
Cheers
Cheers
If you are going to use the decorative bezel cover it needs to be epoxied on. The screws will not hold it in place.
dave
dave
Thanks Dave, so many little things to consider when doing a build that you would never know if not for you guys and the likes on forums.
Great stuff! Thanks
Great stuff! Thanks
