Little update: I re-soldered the original coils and everything works fine again. With a combo of 2 original + 2 Wurth the relay starts and then turns off again after about 5 seconds. Is there anything I can do to make Wurths work?
Subwoofer Hi-Level Input
I've got a topping tp-22 which uses the TK2050 chip. I have a rel Q100E that I would like to connect via its high level input to the amp. Is this possible? I hear that there are possible grounding issues? I sent Rel this same question and their response was
"The issue you have is with the earth on the digital amp, the unit could work fine or as in most cases it causes a hum , I'm afraid it's a try and see moment .
When wiring the sub leave the black cable loose so it's not attached , if the sub works then bingo , if not attach the black and turn everything down before switching on , you will know if it sounds OK"
Would it hurt the amp if I give this a go?
I've got a topping tp-22 which uses the TK2050 chip. I have a rel Q100E that I would like to connect via its high level input to the amp. Is this possible? I hear that there are possible grounding issues? I sent Rel this same question and their response was
"The issue you have is with the earth on the digital amp, the unit could work fine or as in most cases it causes a hum , I'm afraid it's a try and see moment .
When wiring the sub leave the black cable loose so it's not attached , if the sub works then bingo , if not attach the black and turn everything down before switching on , you will know if it sounds OK"
Would it hurt the amp if I give this a go?
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I had the same concern, but it only occurred to me after I had my amp hooked up to the high level inputs on my sub plate amp. 😱
It worked fine. This makes me wonder, though, because the negative (black) high-level terminals on the plate amp are beside each other - I assume this means they are common/connected. Everything I have ever read about these class D amps is that negative cannot be common or it will damage the amp. That's not the way it played out.
Nevertheless, I have now got a miniDSP and I am feeding the plate amp everything <160Hz via RCA (low level) and I feel much better about it.
NOTE: I am not saying to just go ahead and try it. In other words, if you do, don't blame me if things go bad. I just wanted to say that I did do it (without really being aware) and there was no damage. My amp is the Sure 2x100 based on TC2000 and STA508 (still considered TK2050).
EDIT: Perhaps one safe approach would be to only connect either the left or the right, not both. Not ideal, but you'll get some bass, anyway.
Ok, so got the cable this morning and hooked it up with red and yellow wires attached to the l-r binding posts respectively and the black attached to the right output. It works great. Howver it makes a hum if the amp is turned off. Do you think it could be doing lasting damage to the amp or would it affect the noise before of the amp before doing lasting damage?
The sub makes a hum when the topping amp is switched off. However, as soon as the topping amp is on the noise goes. I've also noticed that using the high level output on the topping has not resulted in the amp producing anymore heat which I guess is a good sign
Sorry for the delay. I'd say just be sure to power on/off components in the appropriate order to avoid the hum...
Hi
I am thinking of using three of these boards for a minidsp based active system:
T2 for Woofer: 8ohm 88dB with Connex SMPS300
T1 for Midrange: 4ohm 90dB with shared Connex SMPS500
T1 for Tweeter: 4ohm 94dB with shared Connex SMPS500
Any problems with this?
I am thinking of using three of these boards for a minidsp based active system:
T2 for Woofer: 8ohm 88dB with Connex SMPS300
T1 for Midrange: 4ohm 90dB with shared Connex SMPS500
T1 for Tweeter: 4ohm 94dB with shared Connex SMPS500
Any problems with this?
Oops, of course. My typo.
I was really more concerned about the power requirements of these drivers. The system will not need to be driven loud, but are there any issues with THD at higher levels?
I was really more concerned about the power requirements of these drivers. The system will not need to be driven loud, but are there any issues with THD at higher levels?
Hello, one year ago i assembled a T2 amplifier using AC power from a thoroid transformer and substituting Nichicon filter cap on T2 board with 2x10000mF Kendeil big caps.
Now i would like to try using a DC linear separate power supply, built using low-noise regulators.
What i would like to know is: should i keep the 2x10000mF caps connected to the T2 board or should i put back in place the original Nichicon cap?
Would the bigger capacitance i use now make the sound from my T2 amplifier better or worse? Could it cause any problem?
Many thanks in advance to anyone could help!
Now i would like to try using a DC linear separate power supply, built using low-noise regulators.
What i would like to know is: should i keep the 2x10000mF caps connected to the T2 board or should i put back in place the original Nichicon cap?
Would the bigger capacitance i use now make the sound from my T2 amplifier better or worse? Could it cause any problem?
Many thanks in advance to anyone could help!
You don't need such a big capacitance for DC PSU, probably a smaller capacitor will have lower ESR, leakage ans faster response
Kendeil's capacitors have very low ESR, so i don't think i could easily better that parameter. They sound very good with AC power, very rich sound and fast response. They have nearly 2 times T2 onboard capacitance, so not so hugely over T2 DC 4700 uF expected value.
I built some DC linear power supplies and i found that a big capacitance is very good in improving audio circuits performance: assuming ESR is low enough, capacitance of around 1000uF and more gives exceptional results in a 400/500 mA DAC, for example (have a look to Buffalo III DAC power supply, that has a 4700uF cap).
So i thought 10000uF could be good for a 200W amplifier... But i don't know how T2 power circuits do behave using DC power and big capacitance, so i'm asking for suggestions. Unfortunately i couldn't get an answer from Hifimediy itself...
Do you really think this high capacitance could worse its audio performance? Wouldn't it provide a more stable current input to it, likewise a battery could do? Or would it "slow" T2 response?
Did you have a direct experience about that or yours is just a guess?
Good DC regulated power supplys usually has frequency around 90KHz or more that's about 1500x faster to charge a capacitor than standard 60HZ AC line.
Tk2050 scheme requires an 470uF capacitor only.
Thank you for your infos. But that means the caps will charge more quickly, you think that's a negative factor for an ampli?
So why T2 has a 4700uF filter cap and sounds much better than other TK2050 implementations?
That's positive but smaller capacitors are faster, that means that a much smaller capacitor can provide same supply buffer than a larger capacitor using AC line.
T2 sounds nice cause it has 2x STA505 chips paralleled and higher current output.
I don't think a T1 TP2050 sounds much better than a TP-22 wich has only 330uF capacitors.
low power Hifimediy T2 Mundorf
Hi, I ordered and received a Hifimediy T2 Mundorf amp a few weeks ago but couldn´t test it until now, and realized it get not even three or four watts. I guess something might be wrong.
I use two brand new 12 volts, 2,9 amps batteries in serie. I measure the total voltaje and it is 25,5 so the batteries must be full. ( I measured 24 volts in the + and - of the rectifier since I connect the + and - of the batteries directly in the AC conector of the board )
I use two brand new, high end full range, 4 ohms, 100 w each drivers
I use an iphone as the input signal (I tested different cell phones)
Is there something I make wrong? in the description it says I can use AC or DC. should I bridge the rectifier since I use DC volts?
Thanks.
Hi, I ordered and received a Hifimediy T2 Mundorf amp a few weeks ago but couldn´t test it until now, and realized it get not even three or four watts. I guess something might be wrong.
I use two brand new 12 volts, 2,9 amps batteries in serie. I measure the total voltaje and it is 25,5 so the batteries must be full. ( I measured 24 volts in the + and - of the rectifier since I connect the + and - of the batteries directly in the AC conector of the board )
I use two brand new, high end full range, 4 ohms, 100 w each drivers
I use an iphone as the input signal (I tested different cell phones)
Is there something I make wrong? in the description it says I can use AC or DC. should I bridge the rectifier since I use DC volts?
Thanks.
Have you tried with a different source? The gain of the T2 might be less than what you need to get an iphone up to full output.
/U.
/U.
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