CEROS
That looks like the sander I've been waiting for. I tried the Abranet on my P-C but it wasn't great. Cool!
That looks like the sander I've been waiting for. I tried the Abranet on my P-C but it wasn't great. Cool!
Sanders? - This is a top contender:
Bosch 5" Random Orbit Sander (ROS65VC-5) - Rockler Woodworking Tools
No dust No vibration - period!
Bosch 5" Random Orbit Sander (ROS65VC-5) - Rockler Woodworking Tools
No dust No vibration - period!
What will they think of next
Here's a digital gauge for setting compound saws, table saws, etc.
After setting a compound saw, often hard to tell if the blade is back on 90 degrees.
Also perfect for table saws.
Wixey WR300 Digital Angle Gauge - Saw Gauges - Amazon.com
Here's a digital gauge for setting compound saws, table saws, etc.
After setting a compound saw, often hard to tell if the blade is back on 90 degrees.
Also perfect for table saws.
Wixey WR300 Digital Angle Gauge - Saw Gauges - Amazon.com
I work as a cabinet maker and have a little dewalt chop saw, its a non slider and so pretty accurate. I have it mounted on a bench, with an mdf base and side extensions, with about 2m on one side and infinite on the other, and some sliding wooden stops for repeat cuts. With a good thin kerf blade the finish is great, and take 2 seconds to set, vs a few minutes on the table saw. I agree with an earlier comment, stops are a must
Festool's Kapex has some mixed reviews, but every other pieces I have from them is unbelievably good, and well worth every penny they cost, as long as you have an extractor.
A good table saw is hard to beat though, and can do everything a chop saw can, and far more.
Festool's Kapex has some mixed reviews, but every other pieces I have from them is unbelievably good, and well worth every penny they cost, as long as you have an extractor.
A good table saw is hard to beat though, and can do everything a chop saw can, and far more.
Horse for courses.
Can't beat a good table saw and sliding cross cut sled for cabinet work but a good compound miter saw is useful for cross cutting long pieces and rough cutting raw stock to length.
I have a general 5HP cabinet saw which you would have to fight me to the death for. I also have a 10" Makita compound miter saw, pretty damn good accuracy when tuned up, I also have an Hitachi 12" compound miter saw for big pieces. Nowhere near as accurate as the Makita. As someone up thread said you have to be conscious of any side pressure when cutting and hold your tongue in exactly the right place. Lasers are of limited use, digital angle read out is useful.
I always follow this procedure when working from raw stock, much cheaper than planed material and you get to sort through the bins.
1 Cut to length plus an allowance for possible snipe when thickness planing, nothing less than 4 feet.
2 Joint one surface and one edge
3 Use a thickness planer but leave approx. 1/8 to 1/4 inch oversize
4 Rip to desired width plus 1/8 to 1/4 inch
5 Sticker and allow to rest for at least 2 days
6 True up one surface and one edge on the jointer.
7 Use thickness planer to creep up on required final dimension including possible further truing at the jointer, cuts to alternating faces.
8 Re-check one edge and use jointer to true up if required.
9 creep up to final width at table saw, alternating cuts to each side and with a run through the jointer after each rip.
A jointer is an essential tool, second only to a good cabinet table saw.
Can't beat a good table saw and sliding cross cut sled for cabinet work but a good compound miter saw is useful for cross cutting long pieces and rough cutting raw stock to length.
I have a general 5HP cabinet saw which you would have to fight me to the death for. I also have a 10" Makita compound miter saw, pretty damn good accuracy when tuned up, I also have an Hitachi 12" compound miter saw for big pieces. Nowhere near as accurate as the Makita. As someone up thread said you have to be conscious of any side pressure when cutting and hold your tongue in exactly the right place. Lasers are of limited use, digital angle read out is useful.
I always follow this procedure when working from raw stock, much cheaper than planed material and you get to sort through the bins.
1 Cut to length plus an allowance for possible snipe when thickness planing, nothing less than 4 feet.
2 Joint one surface and one edge
3 Use a thickness planer but leave approx. 1/8 to 1/4 inch oversize
4 Rip to desired width plus 1/8 to 1/4 inch
5 Sticker and allow to rest for at least 2 days
6 True up one surface and one edge on the jointer.
7 Use thickness planer to creep up on required final dimension including possible further truing at the jointer, cuts to alternating faces.
8 Re-check one edge and use jointer to true up if required.
9 creep up to final width at table saw, alternating cuts to each side and with a run through the jointer after each rip.
A jointer is an essential tool, second only to a good cabinet table saw.
Wanted to give this a shout-out since this is one of HF best value tools.
My friend bought one and went over to help him set it up.
The cost was $144 sale price, no blade. We ran over to a home good store and bought a Freud 12" 60 tooth (less than $60) Total cost saw/blade = $200.
The saw worked perfectly, motor sounded good, and we were getting silky smooth cuts with the Freud bade. It will crosscut up 14.5" and tilt in both directions.
The slide action is very nice and the two slide rails are an impressive size.
First thing we did was bolt it down to a big table and built boxes on both sides - level with the saw's table to support longer pieces.
My friend bought one and went over to help him set it up.
The cost was $144 sale price, no blade. We ran over to a home good store and bought a Freud 12" 60 tooth (less than $60) Total cost saw/blade = $200.
The saw worked perfectly, motor sounded good, and we were getting silky smooth cuts with the Freud bade. It will crosscut up 14.5" and tilt in both directions.
The slide action is very nice and the two slide rails are an impressive size.
First thing we did was bolt it down to a big table and built boxes on both sides - level with the saw's table to support longer pieces.
Attachments
Milwaukee
TVR,
I shopped extensively before purchasing my setup about two years ago. I ended up going with the Milwaukee. I couldn't be happier. I paired it with the Bosch gravity stand and the setup is VERY sweet. Accurate as all heck, very easy to move around, and folds and stands on end for storage. Very easy to live with.
I agree regarding lasers. Waste of time. Milwaukee went with two bright lights on either side of the blade instead. Much better idea...
I felt the Milwaukee was the best on the market at the time. The reviews on it were also very positive. I focused on ones from guys in the trades because they tend to really push the tools. Their comments were most interesting to me and have been borne out by my experience. I'm not someone who is partial to particular brands, just wanted to find what I felt was the best from a design and longevity standpoint. I was disappointed to read that this saw is apparently not built here in the States. That being said, the QC on my saw was spot-on and it has performed perfectly. You mentioned slop from the sliders - my saw is very tight with no play. It hasn't been abused, but so far no issue with slop and the cuts have been outstanding. Slop not withstanding, I'm sure you are aware that accuracy of cuts is directly related to blade sharpness, so whatever you buy make sure to invest in a good blade.
I've seen the Milwaukee on sale since I bought mine for $499 through Home Depot and CPO. None of the stores I looked at had it on display so that was frustrating. However, one of my local tool stores did so I was able to see it in person. I didn't pay the sale price because it went on sale about two months after I bought mine. Even though I paid more, I've been very happy with it. It replaced a big Makita slider that was stolen. Overall the Milwaukee is a step up from my Makita because it was older and they've added features as they and the competition have learned over time. I have to tell you, I LOVE the lights that I mentioned above. I will never again own a saw that doesn't have them. Just SO much easier to see what one is working on...
I also wanted a saw that had the notched locking plate for the various angles that are used most. My older Makita did not lock this way and used a ball and detent that was located under the saw table. While it worked fine, it was not as positive as the Milwaukee (or the Dewalt). I also really like the digital readout. It's pretty handy when its needed, but honestly I don't find I use it all that often. Still handy to have though. Finally, the majority of the controls being located up front is nice. Just easier...
12" Dual-Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw | Milwaukee Tool
T4B Gravity-Rise Wheeled Miter Saw Stand | Bosch Power Tools
Good luck with whatever you decide on!
Best,
Steve
TVR,
I shopped extensively before purchasing my setup about two years ago. I ended up going with the Milwaukee. I couldn't be happier. I paired it with the Bosch gravity stand and the setup is VERY sweet. Accurate as all heck, very easy to move around, and folds and stands on end for storage. Very easy to live with.
I agree regarding lasers. Waste of time. Milwaukee went with two bright lights on either side of the blade instead. Much better idea...
I felt the Milwaukee was the best on the market at the time. The reviews on it were also very positive. I focused on ones from guys in the trades because they tend to really push the tools. Their comments were most interesting to me and have been borne out by my experience. I'm not someone who is partial to particular brands, just wanted to find what I felt was the best from a design and longevity standpoint. I was disappointed to read that this saw is apparently not built here in the States. That being said, the QC on my saw was spot-on and it has performed perfectly. You mentioned slop from the sliders - my saw is very tight with no play. It hasn't been abused, but so far no issue with slop and the cuts have been outstanding. Slop not withstanding, I'm sure you are aware that accuracy of cuts is directly related to blade sharpness, so whatever you buy make sure to invest in a good blade.
I've seen the Milwaukee on sale since I bought mine for $499 through Home Depot and CPO. None of the stores I looked at had it on display so that was frustrating. However, one of my local tool stores did so I was able to see it in person. I didn't pay the sale price because it went on sale about two months after I bought mine. Even though I paid more, I've been very happy with it. It replaced a big Makita slider that was stolen. Overall the Milwaukee is a step up from my Makita because it was older and they've added features as they and the competition have learned over time. I have to tell you, I LOVE the lights that I mentioned above. I will never again own a saw that doesn't have them. Just SO much easier to see what one is working on...
I also wanted a saw that had the notched locking plate for the various angles that are used most. My older Makita did not lock this way and used a ball and detent that was located under the saw table. While it worked fine, it was not as positive as the Milwaukee (or the Dewalt). I also really like the digital readout. It's pretty handy when its needed, but honestly I don't find I use it all that often. Still handy to have though. Finally, the majority of the controls being located up front is nice. Just easier...
12" Dual-Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw | Milwaukee Tool
T4B Gravity-Rise Wheeled Miter Saw Stand | Bosch Power Tools
Good luck with whatever you decide on!
Best,
Steve
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I love em. I always buy 2 or 3 at a time..
There's something about measuring and cutting wood using a tool that measures to 10 microns or half a thousanth of an inch that causes my wife to laugh hysterically.
Still can't figure out what's funny..😕😕😕
jn
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