I chose the Hitachi 12" sliding miter saw, as it took a lot less operating space than other units of comparable cost and also felt a lot more solid than the much cheaper Kobalt saw. It's been nice so far, but I haven't put it to the test yet for some really accurate cuts. I have a cheap 10" chop saw that is currently fitted with a non-ferrous blade for cutting up aluminum heat sinks and agle stock. The Onsrud blade cuts aluminum like butter.
I loved the features, but both Hitachi's I saw the linear bearings were so bad it rattled. Grab the saw and give it a shake. That much play is not going to maintain alignment in a compound miter.
Radial arms - I guess if you had a top notch one would be fine; they cut nice cross-cut-dado's in Plywood; e.g. shelving projects.
Sears gave out $100 rebates, if you sent them the motor off the saw.
Craftsman Radial Arm Saw Recall
If you want a good chop saw set-up, the saw is only half of it; need a nice long, heavy table with a good fence. Google Chop Saw Stands for images.
Evanc...cool pics/project.
Sears gave out $100 rebates, if you sent them the motor off the saw.
Craftsman Radial Arm Saw Recall
If you want a good chop saw set-up, the saw is only half of it; need a nice long, heavy table with a good fence. Google Chop Saw Stands for images.
Evanc...cool pics/project.
Been looking at "bed" designs for chop saws. The triple box idea looks good - one long 8' base bed and two slip-on "boxes", table/deck saw height.
Maybe offset it 4' - left side.
This is a good time to seek out a welding buddy, weld up a good stout base bed, so the out tables don't drop/bend.
** Baltimore Wood Working Show......January 3-5 2014 **
Maybe offset it 4' - left side.
This is a good time to seek out a welding buddy, weld up a good stout base bed, so the out tables don't drop/bend.
** Baltimore Wood Working Show......January 3-5 2014 **
get the Makita LS0714! Awesome miter saw.
Makita LS0714 Quad 10 Amp 7-1/2-Inch Sliding Compound Miter Saw - Amazon.com
Makita LS0714 Quad 10 Amp 7-1/2-Inch Sliding Compound Miter Saw - Amazon.com
The Makita's are very clean looking, less or no bracket/arms. Bracket & arms are always in the way!!!
I've had a Hitachi C10FS slider for at least 10 years and used it heavily with great results - it has no slop in the slides. My sense is Hitachi has moved down-market more recently...you might consider going used and saving some cash in the process. JNeutron's advice is critical for producing professional results...my practice is to 1st rough cut a piece at 1/8" (3mm) over net, cut the left end to a right side stop taking 1/16" (1.5mm), then slide the piece to a left side stop set to net dimension to finish the right end taking another 1/16". As far as radial arm saws go, I'd avoid them like the plague as I've never used one that would hold square for even one long session of work.
I have an Old Delta I got off CL a few years back. It cost me less than 100. I suggest combing the used market. A lot of these saws aren't even used at all.
Yea, I am afraid Hitachi is now a bottom feeder. It seems all their tools have moved down line. Still, if they had spent $5 on better bearings, it would be a winner. It does look like the quality varies, as the DeWalts in a second store were tighter than the first. That should not be from them. I should note, all of then can lock the slides and as a fixed miter, all would be plenty snug.
Anyone care to explain why most all of the non-sliders are single compound, not double?
Anyone care to explain why most all of the non-sliders are single compound, not double?
H-F has theirs on sale for $139. Same problem with a cheap plastic block that sets the miter. If one were to make a replacement out of reasonable material, it is actually no worse than saws for $500 more. Fence is a bit short. I am passing for now. Maybe I can see the Festool ( 10 times the cost) at the Woodworkers show and see what all the fuss is about.
TVR, I'm taking back all these gifts family got me/can't use and get something nice.
New Lower Price!
Shop DEWALT 10-in 15 Amp Dual Bevel Slide Compound Miter Saw at Lowes.com
New Lower Price!
Shop DEWALT 10-in 15 Amp Dual Bevel Slide Compound Miter Saw at Lowes.com
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Go try the Bosch Glide saw. It is better. And don't trust the deep drop of some of the newer tools which allows them to have shorter guides. The best cut is when the saw blade enters the cut from the edge of the wood, not the top. Hence the valid counsel to spend thousands on a sliding table, or panel, saw. The Bosch also addresses the issue of clearance to the rear without having a guide rail coming at you a la Festool or Hitachi. I've made thousands of cuts on my older DeWalt but the current model just looks cheaper. I gave up on Hitachi when they went for the Nike look years ago.
JMO, YMMV.
JMO, YMMV.
I might make the suggestion to step up to a 12" non-sliding mitre saw, like the DeWalt DW716.
Sliding saws suck, if I need a cut bigger then what my 12" chop saw will cut, I use another tool.
Some people try and tell me that a 12" blade is going to have more wobble then a 10" and it might, however in reality the cut with a 12" fixed saw is better then a 10" slider because the slider has all kinds of stretch and slop.
A 12" saw will cut through a "4x4" or a "2x8" dimensional lumber.
You can also cut baseboards and crown moldings vertically on the saw.
This means no more compound cuts with that crappy little angle gauge at the back of the saw. You can adjust your angle using the main larger table, which is much more accurate as it is about 12" in diameter compared to the 3" diameter scale on the "bevel" setting.
Cut crown molding by placing it in upside-down and adjusting a single setting to 45 degrees etc.
The DW716 is a classic.
EDIT: The prices are great on the DW716 these days @ around $300-$400.
This should be the saw and price-point that you compare all other saws too.
Sliding saws suck, if I need a cut bigger then what my 12" chop saw will cut, I use another tool.
Some people try and tell me that a 12" blade is going to have more wobble then a 10" and it might, however in reality the cut with a 12" fixed saw is better then a 10" slider because the slider has all kinds of stretch and slop.
A 12" saw will cut through a "4x4" or a "2x8" dimensional lumber.
You can also cut baseboards and crown moldings vertically on the saw.
This means no more compound cuts with that crappy little angle gauge at the back of the saw. You can adjust your angle using the main larger table, which is much more accurate as it is about 12" in diameter compared to the 3" diameter scale on the "bevel" setting.
Cut crown molding by placing it in upside-down and adjusting a single setting to 45 degrees etc.
The DW716 is a classic.
EDIT: The prices are great on the DW716 these days @ around $300-$400.
This should be the saw and price-point that you compare all other saws too.
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I wasn't talking to you, or about your saw, sorry if you misunderstood.
That being said, now that you bring up that, the same issues of a sliding saw apply to this glide saw which is extra side to side flex due to mechanical linkages.
Time will tell how well the Bosch does.
For what it's worth, I am not a fanboy of any brand in particular. I have a Bosch table saw and even though the bearings went out of it, I think it is the best portable table saw going. (Unless there is something recent.)
The Bosch is quite clever, but at a price. I have not been able to see it in my town, as they only stock the cheapest junk here.
No one answered my question why almost all the non-sliding are single bevel? The Dewalt is about the only dual.
No one answered my question why almost all the non-sliding are single bevel? The Dewalt is about the only dual.
It is a cost vs performance thing.
Typically, the non-sliders are "cheaper" versions that have the home owner or part timer in mind.
A single bevel is easier to make because the motor is attached to the side of the blade.
A single bevel may occupy less space as you don't need to have full-length support on both sides of the saw.
These saws may be fine for some trades that use it for specific things, like cutting house siding etc. (Wide thin boards, reduced need for accuracy or ability to cut on both sides of the saw etc.)
A double bevel has the motor relocated to the back of the saw and the blade is spun by a belt.
From a professional (or any reasonable carpenters) point of view, a single bevel would be unacceptable.
There are just some cuts that are difficult to make identical on a single bevel, usually asymmetrical trims.
A single bevel will force you to make some cuts in a compromised fashion that causes confusion and tearout.
So a double bevel is not only a luxury, but a necessity in some situations.
I will take this opportunity to advocate the 12" non sliding saw again, as the increased depth of the mitre cut drastically reduces the need to use the bevel. The simple hinge makes these cuts more accurate, especially as your saw ages.
Using the mitre table to do bevel cuts is much more accurate, due to the bigger size of the table. You will still however at times essentially need the double bevel.
An added nicety having the motor at the back, which gives you a general better visual of the cut and more room for your supporting hand should you need to tip the bevel to that side. (Right)
One last thing that is a big deal to me personally.
On a sliding saw the usually don't have room for the "pointer" to be in the center in line with the blade. It's off to the side, usually some long thin pointer. (Unintuitive and not good for long term accuracy)
So these are the features that I would look for when investing in a saw. You want it to be versatile and accurate. You want to have fun using it.
At my home center the DW716 was a no brainer given the price I paid. I already knew the saw and did not have the time to do online research of other models available online or elsewhere.
You however may find another brand with this mandatory features that fits the bill just as well.
EDIT: There are just more home-owners then there are professionals, hence the plethora of entry level saws. DeWalt has typically made a lot of different tools then other companies, therefore has had "better" models as well as homeowner stuff. Same with the drills. For years you did not really have a choice. Now it seems the other manufacturers are catching up as the public generally gets more educated about these things.
Typically, the non-sliders are "cheaper" versions that have the home owner or part timer in mind.
A single bevel is easier to make because the motor is attached to the side of the blade.
A single bevel may occupy less space as you don't need to have full-length support on both sides of the saw.
These saws may be fine for some trades that use it for specific things, like cutting house siding etc. (Wide thin boards, reduced need for accuracy or ability to cut on both sides of the saw etc.)
A double bevel has the motor relocated to the back of the saw and the blade is spun by a belt.
From a professional (or any reasonable carpenters) point of view, a single bevel would be unacceptable.
There are just some cuts that are difficult to make identical on a single bevel, usually asymmetrical trims.
A single bevel will force you to make some cuts in a compromised fashion that causes confusion and tearout.
So a double bevel is not only a luxury, but a necessity in some situations.
I will take this opportunity to advocate the 12" non sliding saw again, as the increased depth of the mitre cut drastically reduces the need to use the bevel. The simple hinge makes these cuts more accurate, especially as your saw ages.
Using the mitre table to do bevel cuts is much more accurate, due to the bigger size of the table. You will still however at times essentially need the double bevel.
An added nicety having the motor at the back, which gives you a general better visual of the cut and more room for your supporting hand should you need to tip the bevel to that side. (Right)
One last thing that is a big deal to me personally.
On a sliding saw the usually don't have room for the "pointer" to be in the center in line with the blade. It's off to the side, usually some long thin pointer. (Unintuitive and not good for long term accuracy)
So these are the features that I would look for when investing in a saw. You want it to be versatile and accurate. You want to have fun using it.
At my home center the DW716 was a no brainer given the price I paid. I already knew the saw and did not have the time to do online research of other models available online or elsewhere.
You however may find another brand with this mandatory features that fits the bill just as well.
EDIT: There are just more home-owners then there are professionals, hence the plethora of entry level saws. DeWalt has typically made a lot of different tools then other companies, therefore has had "better" models as well as homeowner stuff. Same with the drills. For years you did not really have a choice. Now it seems the other manufacturers are catching up as the public generally gets more educated about these things.
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Because a none-sliding dual has No space when doing cuts.
If you want a tool thats not going to wobble or fall apart after a few decent uses, or when new and unused, go buy a 'lower end' pro tool OR a high end second hand.
I bought an almost mint 12" sliding dual, an 8 yo Bosch, for £200 from a pro carpenter who deemed it too heavy to lug about between small jobs.
Seller also Gave me 5 off 12" blades as they were no use to him, but needed sharpening at £23 a pop AND the tool is 110v, which meant buying a second hand traffo and leads - £40.
One job at 'mates rates' paid for the tool and the guy who I bought it off hires it from me at a daily rate when its replacement 'grumbles'.
I can still get every service part and fully expect it to last me till I stop working - and I don't mean retirement!
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