A NOS 192/24 DAC with the PCM1794 (and WaveIO USB input)

Can someone recommend what make of capacitor would be the best or should I stay with the Wima MKP`s.
I have 11 decks now working very nicely with Wima MKP 47nf and I would like to try higher values up to 110nf,

Thanks, Alex.
Hey Alex,
Would you post some pics of your 11-DAC stacks?
I have been using Vishay 47nf for my 11 stacks but still getting hf noise transmission. 47nf was working fine with my previous 8 stacks.

I have made some progress with the indented mod, all Muse are now removed from DAC boards, and to be replace by Elna Silmic 2, same specs. Still waiting for the Tent Shunts to arrive, and along with Sanyo OSCon....
I should be in the position to carry out this intensive surgery next week, hopefully?

Best,
Chanh
zuzy8aba.jpg

umuna4u8.jpg
 
Hi Chanh,

In my haste to get the 11 stacks up and running I forgot to take photo`s ....

I have attached the photo of the 8 stack for now until I change the de coupling caps.

I still cannot get over how good this dac sounds with the supplied parts. I tried Super regs on the main board but ended up putting the LF regs back as they sounded better.

The big 7.5A toroid made a good difference though :)

I will build another Dac probably next year then I will try the tent regs but meanwhile I will consider this one my reference for now :)

I will await your views after your mods, Good work.
 

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Question.

As described before by Doede and commented on in the latest DDAC documentation (ver4.1), additional High frequency filtering can be done by adding two (or four depending on where you put them & which main board you have), caps. Doede write:” value not critical. Approx 4,7nF to 10nF per Deck”.


I had not added these caps before and did add Wima’s 0,01uf’s ( a factor 4 lower then suggested for a 4 board stack) last weekend and what an improvement they made! The high frequencies became much detailed and open, what I’d been looking for for a while. I’m now thinking about getting some nice Mica’s, but which value’s to get?


Does “per deck” imply to use 40nf for a 4 board stack? Does increasing the value not lower the roll-off frequency. Does this mean that by adding more boards the quantitisation/high frequency noise comes down in frequency, or am I missing something?


What value have you guys used, what are your experiences with adding these caps?


Hi, can you tell me where the latest DDDac documentation is? I cannot see it on the DDDac Website, or otherwise let me know where these caps go?
Thanks
David
 
How did you remove the Muses? It seems all the leads are gone..
I manually remove by force using my thumb. The Leads simply stripping out. No harm done to the board, trace or ring. To desolder the remains, i use solder sucker from one side and wet solder on the other and suck out the residual after snipped of the poke out leads. These Muse have no values after desoldering, so I rather them been a sacrificial than the new board needed?

I previously used wet solder to resolver the join and ended up damaging the board by pulling out the ring altogether. So lesson learnt there! :)

Note this apply to Wima caps too, simply push it sideway to it breaks the leads.

Hope it helps?
 
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Joined 2002
http://www.dddac.com/documents/dddac1794s_nos_ver42.pdf

Yes, I did have to look for them a long time too. They are mentioned with and * under the drawing.
You are using the expensive output transformers that i wanna get too once the new boards with Tent shunts are on the market.
I think it is such a pity that people have to kind of damage the boards in such a way to make them even better.
With the transformer you will need 4 dac boards and i think that investment is to big to damage when installing shunts.
Maybe i will go fort one board with shunt and cap output and later buy transformer and 4 new boards with shunts.
Sometimes it is hard to remove parts because if you are using a lead free solder with a lower melting temperature and the board has been assembled with a solder that requires a much higher soldering temperature. Better buy the boards without the caps installed and go for the higher grade caps right away.
Sincere greetings, Edward
 
Hi Edward,

DIY and experimenting are no doubt part of the fun. While it always is a good idea assembling the DAC from start with great caps and resisters, however, ones must first know which are the great caps? Secondly, if the budget at time allows? Thirdly, without experimenting or extended listening to the assembled stock component over time, how would ones appreciate those greatest caps are truly great?! Personally, I found doing diy, and experimenting are as a therapy! Others might found fishing be more fun...! :)

With regards to Transformer output, I have had doubt previously. However, my view changed very quickly after I got an opportunity trying a mate DDDAC here with combinations of direct balance output, single ended via 2.2uf output caps for the following, Duelund vsf, Duelund copper cast, Dynami 2uf parallel with 0.22uf, and a pair of Sowters tranny. Without hesitation, I ordered a pair of Sowters from Doede along with my 8 decks setup! LoL!
Must admit, I never regret this investment, time and time again, I revisited these experiments under my setup, still I am happy til date. May be those have these Sowters can share their experience?

Lastly, there is a possibility of a revised DAC board with shunts available in 2015? However, knowing Doede..., and his busy life, it could be available in 201x? :D

I guess I need to refrain myself from talking too much! :D
 
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Hello Chanh,
I like a bit of diy but i dont wanna have a dac on my kitchen table 3 days a week. Especially if you make a pile of dac boards that you have to '' deconsruct '' all the time.
Putting in a different choke is okay if you did keep some place open to put in a bigger one and made the holes as well. I always try to make a kind of '' modular design '' so i dont have disintegrate everything every time. Wanna do the test with the power supply before the weekend to see if the voltage will be the desired one. Then will put things back in the box and wait for the new boards to arrive. In a few months time i will make a 10 week trip so when it will be end of january i can check if there is any news on the new boards. lol
I like the way you talk.
By the way i did check the 300va R-core 2*15 volts is still not available. BUT you better wait to see what voltage i end up with so you can decide if it will be enough for you. There is one 2*18 volts in stock. The R core chokes they still have more than 20 in stock both current ratings. The big one could be nice for you to use as a common mode choke with its 5A rating.
But we will have to wait for supersurfer to inform us how much voltage he is offering at his shunts on the dac board.
Sincere greetings,. Edward
 
Thanks Edward!
I should be in the position to complete my 11-Decks with Shunts by end of August, provided that the Shunts are here next week and working! My raw unregulated ps, choke input, works great at secondary 15V tranny. However, there may be a variation on voltage requires when the shunts are in placed. Will see?
 
Hello James,
You are the first one that is going to use an R core for the Dac.
No, I think as usual Stefan is way ahead of us and has had an R-core for a while now :)

@James

Where do you buy ISOLATAR USB ?
Concerning power i think to use LiFePO4battery so is it necessary to have 8 volts exastly, what is the tolerence 6.6 < V < 9.9 ?
In your configuration do you have tested Volumio 1.4 ?

Thanks advance
Olivier

I used the free DIYINHK board - Free Amanero Isolator bare PCB Twin pack - DIYINHK
just added 2 capacitors and an isolator chip and it works nice.
But honestly, I'm not convinced it makes a difference that I can hear.

I have the R-core fitted now and I like the results. It's spacious and deep and the background mains noise is less than with the toroidal.
IMG_20140806_085418.jpg

I swapped my bleeder resistor for a smaller 25w one (mainly cos I bought it by mistake thinking it was a 50w) and got a nice heat sink for it. One of the drawbacks of a wooden box is it doesn't dissipate heat very well, so I've mounted it externally.
IMG_20140806_085409.jpg

So here's where I'm at now.
IMG_20140806_085424.jpg


With this 2 x 12v R-core and slightly smaller resistors before the 8v regs, I'm seeing 10.3v at the input of the 8v regs, which is within specs for the Tentlabs shunts.

Nice to see everyone else making progress :)
Chan, I did the same as you removing the Muse caps except I used big pliers and just gave them a little twist and pull :smash: Much easier than trying to desolder a pair of legs in 1 go. That's the only issue with nice thick, high quality boards like these with good vias. They can be hard to desolder sometimes.


Next things to play with, I now have an Acko S03 reclocker board and lots of teeny tiny parts to solder on. Looking forward to seeing how that sounds :)
 
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Joined 2002
Hello Chanh,
Your chokes are just 0.23 ohm serie resistance. The 2733 will be 3,4 ohm total when just in common mode connection and my second choke will be the 1694 which will be 1,8 ohm in series or 0,45 in parallel.
Will only need a '' bleedercurrent '' of about 60 ma to be on the same side because of the high inductance of the big choke. BUT four boards with shunts will make the voltage go down seriously because the serie resistance of the input choke gives a bigger voltage loss than if that choke would be used after the first cap.
Will give you the results once i did connect to the right bleeder.
Sincere greetings, Edward.
p.s you nearly take 3 A so you surely need the bigger R core choke The current rating being the same the serie resistance will be about the same as your 50mH because two winmdings in series inductance is 40mH. Of course you will need to connect it common mode!!!
 
Hello Chanh,
Your chokes are just 0.23 ohm serie resistance. The 2733 will be 3,4 ohm total when just in common mode connection and my second choke will be the 1694 which will be 1,8 ohm in series or 0,45 in parallel.
Will only need a '' bleedercurrent '' of about 60 ma to be on the same side because of the high inductance of the big choke. BUT four boards with shunts will make the voltage go down seriously because the serie resistance of the input choke gives a bigger voltage loss than if that choke would be used after the first cap.
Will give you the results once i did connect to the right bleeder.
Sincere greetings, Edward.
p.s you nearly take 3 A so you surely need the bigger R core choke The current rating being the same the serie resistance will be about the same as your 50mH because two winmdings in series inductance is 40mH. Of course you will need to connect it common mode!!!
Edward,
I am lost! My Chokes are 0.23Ohm, 50mH, and 5A. With Shunts, it demands approx 3A current if not more. There is no common mode for my Chokes. Are you saying my Chokes's specs are inadequate? :confused:

Cheers,
Chanh
 
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Joined 2002
Hello James,
I did take a look again at Stefans pictures. It looks like an R-core but he did ask me about the R core i did find in France so i did assume his wasnt an r core. His transformer is 200va and mine is 300va but doesnt have a static screen like yours and mine.
YES, a toroidal just let all the noise pass through.
Probably with my 2*15 vol;ts i will be safe for the Tent shunts.
Sincere greetings, edward
 
It's $35 posted for the board, then the digikey order was something like $75 and a maybe $10 from Potato Semiconductors too.
I still need to work out the best way to get from the U.FL connectors onto the DDDAC mainboard, so I guess a few $ more still to come
If that is the case, this isolator will be interesting? Isolate your Raspberry PI
It costs only US$125.
Please see attachment below w.r.t Designer's response to my online query.
 

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Hello Chanh,
Your chokes are perfect.
Enlish is not my native language. I just did say that if you wanna use the r core chokes from France you must buy the bigger one. There is a 2.5 and 5A model.
And if one day you will have the R core from France you could try them in common mode connection. BUT if you want to use a bleeder to be sure that it will function as a true choke input ( or you like to depend completely upon the shunts?) there will be a considerable current running there because the inductance isnt that big. If your dc voltage is 13 volts you will need ( 13 divided by 2*20mH) 13/0,04 =325mA of '' bleeding current ''
If you use the right resistor you will always be on the safe side.
SO in the future you could try the R core 5A model. If you decide to buy an R core transformer you can have that choke for 30 euro extra ( shipping cost will stay the same i did already examine that)