saw one resistor , R50 with "681", means 680 ohm, correct ? when use LT1086.
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Yep, all parts are listed in BOM https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...VWMzTWlLRXlveDVPOWctLW5URnc&usp=sharing#gid=0
Regards,
Tibi
Well, thank you Tibi. I'll let you know here how it fits.
I will not return the old one as I have modified it as Erik described so I hope that you let me at least pay for the postage! 🙂
Regards
Please take it like my reward to your activity here on this thread and I expect you continue to report your Shiga MKII experience.
I like active users who try new things, report issues and get solutions.
This is the DIY spirit. 🙂
Regards,
Tibi
Cap Swap?
I haven't built my Shiga yet. It may be a little while, I'm busy building amps now. But I have a .1 uf Copper V-Cap for C8, I will break in for 300 Hrs, with the rest of my newly built system before bringing into the house for serious listening. Now, I was thinking, since we can't really tell what a different cap is really going to sound like until it's burned in, and also that depending on your system, and your ears, not one cap is going to be best for all. What if we set up a forum cap swap. Say I have a V-Cap Copper, and you have something else that I might want to try, we could swap caps, for say two weeks, and then send them back to each other. This way we get to try different caps in our systems without having to buy said cap, break it in for 300 hrs., just to find out it's not better then we have. Would save lots of $ and time. Just a thought.
I haven't built my Shiga yet. It may be a little while, I'm busy building amps now. But I have a .1 uf Copper V-Cap for C8, I will break in for 300 Hrs, with the rest of my newly built system before bringing into the house for serious listening. Now, I was thinking, since we can't really tell what a different cap is really going to sound like until it's burned in, and also that depending on your system, and your ears, not one cap is going to be best for all. What if we set up a forum cap swap. Say I have a V-Cap Copper, and you have something else that I might want to try, we could swap caps, for say two weeks, and then send them back to each other. This way we get to try different caps in our systems without having to buy said cap, break it in for 300 hrs., just to find out it's not better then we have. Would save lots of $ and time. Just a thought.
Angcl,
Still I do not get what you want to say.
Shiga MKI and Shiga MKII make use of the same LCD display. Mounting hole distance was not altered.
Even more, these displays have been designed to match pin hole distance with JVC EZ display.
Be more specific and detail your problem, if any.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Regards,
Tibi
not the lcd , is the lcd pcb ,there are two holes for mounting to front panel , for mark 1 and mark 2 is different if you compare side by side.
I always loved the touch keys on my dad's old Philips 212 Electronic turntable, and was wondering if they could be used here?
The turntable is from 1974 and I don't know if similar touch keys are still made, though the turntable is easy to come by.
Link to photo and the schematics (page 3). Down on the page, Start Circuit.
The turntable is from 1974 and I don't know if similar touch keys are still made, though the turntable is easy to come by.
Link to photo and the schematics (page 3). Down on the page, Start Circuit.
Yes I remember those as well but from our first philips colour tv from early 70's. Ours were without backlight. I too have thought of them and how they works. Capacitive I believe with some logic behind.
Regards
Regards
It could be possible. Push-buttons can be replaced with a wide range of "controls". This is up to your imagination and your skills.
Regards,
Tibi
if you compare the mark 1 and Mark 2 LCD PCB dimensions , you will know what i mean, the distance for the two holes 2x3.2mm.
😡
Ok, I understand what you mean. Do you expected to have same board on MKI and MKII ? 🙂
Obviously these are different PCB design and therefore different PCB dimensions.
Regards,
Tibi
I'm not that old to know them from televisions 😉
My parents didn't even get married, and start living together, until 1975.
My dad has a 212 in the garage, if he hasn't thrown it away yet.
Will ask him to salvage the parts just in case 🙂
Tibi: with my dad I should be able to figure things out.
Tibi.
I fully agree with your comments here, cables make a huge difference.
I have a Siltek on SPDIF and a Furutech waiting for AES/EBU. My quest for digital balanced input is pure experimentation and I don't expect a real improvement going balanced, but this is diy, as you said.
Here is what I found: Digital output stage with special transformer for CD-Pro2LF, VAU1254/31 or other digital sources - Audio Intense
What do you think of this product? It is not needed to improve the square wave from the Shiga, it is perfect the way it is.
Thank you again and have a nice day.
Hi.
The Mundorf Supreme SGO for C8 arrived today. My plan was to wait until the silver micas and Tent clock arrives before I solder anything - the plan held for 5 minutes... Totally different punch in the music but I find it blurring the soundstage a bit. So no verdict until they are all soldered in place.
Regards
The Mundorf Supreme SGO for C8 arrived today. My plan was to wait until the silver micas and Tent clock arrives before I solder anything - the plan held for 5 minutes... Totally different punch in the music but I find it blurring the soundstage a bit. So no verdict until they are all soldered in place.
Regards
