Shigaclone MKII Black - The builders Thread

Please Tibi, elaborate on the trolling language. I need to learn so I understand what is out of order.

Thank you.

🙂 Continuously unhappy? It sings as angels! But there is according to your words even more - so the first step is to get the CD lateral so wobbling was not an option I bought. Of course I was unhappy with the first transport "pristine" as you called it as all of your products are according to you. 2 teeths missing when I took it out of the box and according to you I broke it... How do you think that affects my feelings about Vicol Audio? Can You see it Tibi? I am long from unhappy but the things you send out - be sure of that they are pristine when you get them - when you test them and be extra sure that you pack them well - if they are pristine when the customer gets them - then and only then have you succeded.

I am happy but trying to solve issues that the seller should have fixed - that part I'm unhappy with and want to get resolved without work or money from me...

But then again. Sorry about the whole issue. I'll sort things out by myself or with help from Vicol Audio. For now I can do with the magnetic puck until I know what to do with the AL one... The tolerances are screaming for another solution that guarantees the horisontal leverage of the CD. I will not elaborate further on this issue.

Regards
 
Turbon,

You are so wrong.
We made all of this from pure pleasure as many people on DIY audio.
We did not get rich from a product we have already invested far much money and time than we won so far.
We offer a DIY product and I also expect people understand this is a Do It Yourself. Some things always can be improved, even when the product is perfect, there are many other things like communication support etc.
We are here from pure pleasure because we share same hobby as this great community.
We have designed this product with joy and we hope will bring same joy to others.
If something is not working as you expect, fix it and help this project to grow.
We have shared everything on this project: lot of documentation, schematics, drawings and source for parts. We even designed and produced parts from scratch.
You can share your experience as well. Good or bad will help this project grow, but act like a DIY-er not a frustrated customer.
Here is pure DIY for others are high-end stores where you may get "pristine" and "perfect" parts.

We are not here for such dialogue.
I will send to you another CD puck who have lower tolerances.

Regards,
Tibi
 
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Turbon,

You are so wrong.
We made all of this from pure pleasure as many people on DIY audio.
We did not get rich from a product we have already invested far much money and time than we won so far.
We offer a DIY product and I also expect people understand this is a Do It Yourself. Some things always can be improved, even when the product is perfect, there are many other things like communication support etc.
We are here from pure pleasure because we share same hobby as this great community.
We have designed this product with joy and we hope will bring same joy to others.
If something is not working as you expect, fix it and help this project to grow.
We have shared everything on this project: lot of documentation, schematics, drawings and source for parts. We even designed and produced parts from scratch.
You can share your experience as well. Good or bad will help this project grow, but act like a DIY-er not a frustrated customer.
Here is pure DIY for others are high-end stores where you may get "pristine" and "perfect" parts.

We are not here for such dialogue.
I will send to you another CD puck who have lower tolerances.

Regards,
Tibi

Enough said about this. Never mind the puck - somone else might need it. 🙂
What is the next mod?

Regards
 
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For 220V connect middle black+brown wires together in order to get two primaries in series.
What I mean is how to avoid this :

92153_html_7f41ee9b.png


I have not found any info on the manufacturer's site petra-toroid.ro . Should I connect any brown to any black on primary in order to be "inphase" for 220V?
 
What I mean is how to avoid this :

92153_html_7f41ee9b.png


I have not found any info on the manufacturer's site petra-toroid.ro . Should I connect any brown to any black on primary in order to be "inphase" for 220V?
For 220 V / 230 V brown and black from middle must be connected together .
Like this :
 

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Turbon,

You are so wrong.
We made all of this from pure pleasure as many people on DIY audio.
We did not get rich from a product we have already invested far much money and time than we won so far.
We offer a DIY product and I also expect people understand this is a Do It Yourself. Some things always can be improved, even when the product is perfect, there are many other things like communication support etc.
We are here from pure pleasure because we share same hobby as this great community.
We have designed this product with joy and we hope will bring same joy to others.
If something is not working as you expect, fix it and help this project to grow.
We have shared everything on this project: lot of documentation, schematics, drawings and source for parts. We even designed and produced parts from scratch.
You can share your experience as well. Good or bad will help this project grow, but act like a DIY-er not a frustrated customer.
Here is pure DIY for others are high-end stores where you may get "pristine" and "perfect" parts.

We are not here for such dialogue.
I will send to you another CD puck who have lower tolerances.

Regards,
Tibi

Well said, Tibi - It's DIYer's like yourself that help us less experienced folks (me 😀) participate in this great hobby.
 
i have now implemented 4 caps of the wow effect and it made a big difference. i previously didn't replace the vref cap. i used arcotronics in this position as recommended. i must say that with all the 4 caps now installed, the highs got silkier, soundstage is deeper, blacker background.. thanks guys.. now waiting for 100pf silver mica for the trimmer as suggested bu tibi.
 
What I mean is how to avoid this :

92153_html_7f41ee9b.png


I have not found any info on the manufacturer's site petra-toroid.ro . Should I connect any brown to any black on primary in order to be "inphase" for 220V?

Transformers are custom made for this project. You'll not get any info on factory site.
Please follow Danzup drawing. You need to connect primary in series, not parallel as in your drawing.
See also attached picture for 220Vac.

Regards,
Tibi
 

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Hi Turbon,

At first I go a long way with you with your remarks but later on the huge DIY factor crept in and lets face it ...the costs are kept to a pleasant minimum (although I personally do not care about the costs) as well forcing us to be more tolerant to our hobby.

The best thing.( ..even better then Tibi suggested by sending a more tolerant puck) is to slightly sand the puck pin by hand...quite easy just a bit of time consuming.
This will result in a fit which matches your cd platform best.
 
Tibi,
I folowed your recomendations, checked everything again, paying particular attention to the flat cable and... it works fine! Thank you Tibi.
On an other subject, I am interested in adding a balanced AES/EBU output. My dac can accept such an input and my audiophile friends too.
This could be an interesting experience and be usefull to other members.
What would you suggest I do. I tought about a transformer, of course, but other solutions could be more adequate.
Not knowing the outup characteristcs of the LC78601, I hesitate to put anything accross it. What would you recommend?
 
This can be done several ways.
One is to use a current repeater, like one transistor/tube with spdif transformed in emitor/cathode.
Another one is to make a current buffer with a bunch of 74HC04 gates and feed s/pdif transformer through a capacitor.
In any case you need a good s/pdif transformer. Audio-note make some great ones.
I'll draw and post few simple schematics.

Now my advice is that in case you use a simple cable between transport and dac this must be at least 1.5m . The reason is due reflections and was several times mentioned on this forum. At this length I prefer RCA.
Don't underestimate the importance of s/pdif cable. Use highest quality you ca afford.
A poor quality s/pdif cable is acting like a delay line adding lot of jitter.

Regards,
Tibi
 
Further small improvements.
Use a copper foil to cover parts under PIN detector and amplifier module. Take care to put this fol over a substantial silicon. Reheat the foil to adhere to silicon.
Cover IC's as well. This may be grounded if you like.

Regards,
Tibi

Tibi,
two questions:
1. what sholud be the foil thickness
2. how to stick the foil/plate to the ICs assuming it's is not selfadhesive
thanks,
Andy
 
Hi.

Have anyone tested the Mundorf Supreme Silver/Gold Oil instead of the Mundorf EVO Silver/Gold Oil at C8? Othervise all components are ordered to upgrade my transport/board. Hope they arrive quickly 🙂

Regards

Yessss..

It was a nice sounding cap but not as nice as the Alexander Duelund or the DIY of Zey (sounded simular to eachother) but the best hands down was the CAST Duelund....but price might be over the top for most of the builders.

I tested about ten caps in the C906 (C8) position

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