Shigaclone MKII Black - The builders Thread

I am using a single transformer with two MSR860 diodes and a 10.000uF cap right on the diodes, then about 30cm umbilical cable, and the two regulators are connected in parallel.

There might be some benefit in using separate transformer/diodes, but I have not tried it. I have some spare toroids so I might give it a try... I am running out of MSRs though...

Has anyone tried Tibi's suggestion of Cree diodes and compared them to the MSRs?

Sir,
Could you post a drawing of what you did? I was going to do the same, but I'm not sure how the diodes go? Thank you. 😕
 
Hi Tibi,
Today I have a good one for you and the community.
Yesterday, I completed the modifications on the Shigaclone. Everything looked OK, so I connected it to my system. It worked very well, the music was a bliss.
This morning, I decided to add a pulse transformer to the drive, in order to obtain a balanced output. The transformer is intended to be connected in parrallel to the SPDIF output.
But here what happens. With a CD in place, the drive starts, can't read the disc, slows down and start a rotation in the opposite dirrection to finally stop.
Weird! The transformer and XLF output connector are not to blame since there are no wires connected to the transport at this time.
Yes, I checked every connection and cable for a possible break, nothing to report so far.
If you have any ideas, I will appreciate your input.
Thank you.
 
Sir,
Could you post a drawing of what you did? I was going to do the same, but I'm not sure how the diodes go? Thank you. 😕

pic%201.jpg
 
Hi Dimkasta

This seems a relatively easy/cheap psu to build.
I wonder; did you try any other psu's (eg super regs etc) for these positions and found this design superior?

Thanks

Yesterday I switched to separate V1 and V2, using two LM117 tracking pre-reg + reg combos, like in the schematic I posted a while back. Just using only two red leds for the 5V reference, instead of 3 leds and 2 diodes for the 8V reference.

422108d1401896259-finally-affordable-cd-transport-shigaclone-story-117_tpr.jpg


Nominal results are about 100dB of line rejection mostly coming from the tracking pre-reg, and separate load rejection from the second chip.

Cost including a heatsink that acts mostly as a chassis is around 10euros

Excellent results with big improvement in dynamics and microdetails.
 
I have some favorites modding on to do list :
- C8 = 100nF Silver Gold Oil Mundorf
- Clock Tentlabs Low Jitter 16,934Mhz (this means out with C57 ,C58, X01) and solder L8
- V3 and V4 miniregs , out with L9 ,L5 , solder wire for 2 miniregs
- C10 = Oscon Sanyo 270uF/10V
- C13 = Nichicon VR(M) 470uF/16V
- R48 , R36 Naked Vishay Resistors
- C11 1nF silver mica

Next I will build a case for this CD player .

Hi Tibi,
tried up with mini reg, V3 and V4 , ( out with L9 ,L5 , solder wire for 2 miniregs
), end up can't read the disc ,not sure what wrong , i am using the standard clock, not sure what wrong ,or need Clock Tentlabs ?🙁
removed the v3 and v4 miniregs and ,soldered back L9 and L5 ,then it work again.😕
 
Hi Tibi,
tried up with mini reg, V3 and V4 , ( out with L9 ,L5 , solder wire for 2 miniregs
), end up can't read the disc ,not sure what wrong , i am using the standard clock, not sure what wrong ,or need Clock Tentlabs ?🙁
removed the v3 and v4 miniregs and ,soldered back L9 and L5 ,then it work again.😕

Did you measure minireg's output before mounting them ? 😉
Whatever clock you use, miniregs will work.

Regards,
Tibi
 
Hi Dimkasta

This seems a relatively easy/cheap psu to build.
I wonder; did you try any other psu's (eg super regs etc) for these positions and found this design superior?

Thanks

I have tried a salas BiB board for the digital parts in MK1 with nice results. Further increasing the current might have further improved things, but shunts quickly become hot and need big heatsinks.

I wanted to try some more stuff, but I am a bit tight with money right now, and as you said the tracking prereg thingy was easy and cheap enough, and gave very nice results

I have ordered some of the new salas digital current mirror PSUs now, but these will take some time to arrive.

Erik has used many other super regs, so he should have a more educated opinion about them.
 
OK, thanks -I'm also looking at Salas's Reflektor D PSU so will be interested in your impressions of that as well.

I have tried a salas BiB board for the digital parts in MK1 with nice results. Further increasing the current might have further improved things, but shunts quickly become hot and need big heatsinks.

I wanted to try some more stuff, but I am a bit tight with money right now, and as you said the tracking prereg thingy was easy and cheap enough, and gave very nice results

I have ordered some of the new salas digital current mirror PSUs now, but these will take some time to arrive.

Erik has used many other super regs, so he should have a more educated opinion about them.
 
working on details

Further small improvements.
Use a copper foil to cover parts under PIN detector and amplifier module. Take care to put this fol over a substantial silicon. Reheat the foil to adhere to silicon.
Cover IC's as well. This may be grounded if you like.

Regards,
Tibi
 

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Further small improvements.
Use a copper foil to cover parts under PIN detector and amplifier module. Take care to put this fol over a substantial silicon. Reheat the foil to adhere to silicon.
Cover IC's as well. This may be grounded if you like.

Regards,
Tibi

Nice, one of the mods I was thinking about 🙂 I will also put a screen between psu parts and audio/logic... Or maybe move the PSU away all together. Haven't decided yet.

Regards
 
Nice, one of the mods I was thinking about 🙂 I will also put a screen between psu parts and audio/logic... Or maybe move the PSU away all together. Haven't decided yet.

The clockcircuit might need a small tent 🙂

Oh, yes almost forgot. Is there a way to implement pause? Seems to be missing...

Another thing is the AL CD puck... I have a hard time to see if it is causing the wobble I see when playing due to weight when comparing to the original magnetic puck. No wobble with the magnetic original but at least 1mm up and down at the edges with the AL one... Any experiences out there? I'll guess some are more centered than others - so it's eighter the puck off center or the turntable rod that ain't straight. Changing the pristine transport again would be to seek to far. Could I borrow a known perfect puck for a few weeks at my expense? With known I mean that there is no wobbling with a perfect transport with the puck. So either my puck or the axis of my transport is out of specs - as expected to be pristine - no errors allowed. As There is no wobble with the original magnetic puck I expect whomever will find the puck to be out of order and as I have paid for expected it to be better than the original I have a hard time to see that the transports should be on me. Well, I'm happy to test another puck. This might be my second problem with the AL puck... I just don't want this to end as I just got pristine parts and if I have a problem I probably did something wrong...
Now, only expect it to not wobble with the bought puck... Easy as that.

Regards

Regards
 
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