I was confused too about the many spec. sheets saying different values, so I contacted Tymphany about the issue.
They replied, the spec sheet has the right number which is 113 Hz (4 ohm) and 105 Hz (8 Ohm) at the monment. 😀 (+-15%)
They replied, the spec sheet has the right number which is 113 Hz (4 ohm) and 105 Hz (8 Ohm) at the monment. 😀 (+-15%)
Last edited:
Hi Earfanatic
You dont gain anything increasing the volume of the TABAQ. It is already large for a 3 inch driver, improving the bass. The hard stuffing is to tame the frequency. The result is a very good sound size and price taken into consideration.
Hi from
Bjorn
You dont gain anything increasing the volume of the TABAQ. It is already large for a 3 inch driver, improving the bass. The hard stuffing is to tame the frequency. The result is a very good sound size and price taken into consideration.
Hi from
Bjorn
Okay, I am just learning. 🙂 I have never built a loudspeaker before.
Hopefully I can hear this little gem in February.
Bjorn, I saw your webpage, and it is soo cool! 😱
Making so many modern and colorful designs.... it looks very trendy.
I could imagine most of them in my living room. And my wife agrees too! 😀
Hopefully I can hear this little gem in February.
Bjorn, I saw your webpage, and it is soo cool! 😱
Making so many modern and colorful designs.... it looks very trendy.
I could imagine most of them in my living room. And my wife agrees too! 😀
Maybe have a look at the Vifantastisch (google 🙂, if you want a bit more extension in the lover end at the cost of a little more ripple and a larger cab.
Kind of a BiB for the Vifa.
Kind of a BiB for the Vifa.
Last edited:
No doubt it looks cuter. 🙂 With wall/corner placement you should be able to get useable 60 Hz (down ca. 6dB) with the Vifa TC9.
Looks very good - those Vifa's are very nice. Not sure why your bass is not showing up though, the Vifa in a Tabaq should hit 60 Hz easily.
I can see three main reasons, first the distance: mic-driver 40cm, mic-vent 70cm. Just taking mic to 1m distance, shows quite different result. See the result here.
Also, the speaker was approx 1m from the wall, so no bass lift from there. Then, I may have stuffed the box little too much (110..120g, material from Biltema ), but these drivers have higher than specified Fs, maybe also Qt. I think I should study REW or ARTA a little and measure T/S parameters to check.
Do you think these are even close to correct asumptions?
Attachments
Did you make any adjustmets to the measurements, volume, etc., of the enclosure - or is it as originally designed for the Tang Band?
Your first curve "merely" confirms the manufacturers own datasheet.
Fs at around 110 - 125 and the bass rolloff looks almost exactly like the official naked driver measurement, so the Qts looks to be about right.
If it's not too much bother it would be interesting to see a measurement done at a proper distance for integration and/or the port alone and you didn't do it already up against a wall and with less stuffing. 🙂
I think it would do much better.
Edit. Measuring Fs seems to be kind of a black art with a lot variability. Just look at the original Tangband W3-315E. It's curve is the same or slightly "worse" than the TC9, even though it's marketed at a Fs of 100. MarkAudios CHR driver has measurements with the rolloff starting at approximately 100 Hz (it is a slightly larger driver), with the impedance peak at a somewhat lower point though.
Last edited:
Hi,
The design is exactly the original for TB, but elevated with 15cm high base from the floor. I will take some stuffing away, although the box is glued together so it can be slightly challenging..
Hi erkki1
Try to unmount the driver and remove some stuffing this way.
You should be able to reach 40 Hz at -10 dB, even with the elevated cabinet.
Hi from
Bjorn
Try to unmount the driver and remove some stuffing this way.
You should be able to reach 40 Hz at -10 dB, even with the elevated cabinet.
Hi from
Bjorn
Hi,
The driver is easy to take away, I have not finished the box yet.
Is it critical how much / how stiff stuffing is close to the driver? ( = touching the driver magnet)
The driver is easy to take away, I have not finished the box yet.
Is it critical how much / how stiff stuffing is close to the driver? ( = touching the driver magnet)
What stuffing is recommended for this build? In my area I can only find loose polyfill, which might be a pain in the neck to keep in place (any tricks?). I might be able to find insulation fiberglass sheets, but not a very popular product in a Caribbean country with mostly all concrete construction.
I have learned never to glue stuffing as it always needs to be adjusted. Polyfill is great as you can add or remove through driver cutout with a coat hanger hook. Add a couple of thin strips of wood bracing at the lower point where you don't want polyfill to fall below and it will stay.
