Aleph J illustrated build guide

That case should be big enough. Stock the J idles around 100W IIRC, which is close the limit. You'll run around 5 deg hotter than 18V. In the end if you can't keep your hand on it for 5-10 seconds, turn down the bias a tiny bit, let it cool down under power an hour or so and recheck.

Our resident joker dodo, Zen Mod, is just trying to be sure that you will have 2 20V windings available so both rails are powered. If you refer to the transformer as 2 x 20V or 40V CT then it's easier to be sure you're heading the right direction.
 
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Ah, I see. Thanks Bob and Zen. I was under the impression that all the Antek offerings were 2 x "V" windings and didn't specify. I thought Zen was telling me that I need two transformers, thus my confusion. I really appreciate all the help but I'm not as technically proficient as some here. I'm afraid to ask silly questions for fear of being jumped on or ridiculed.
 
I'm going to fearlessly ask another very basic beginner question. :)

I'm using a 2x18v, 300VA Vigortronix transformer in my build. What type of fuse should I be looking for? I tried to find information on this online but couldn't locate a clear guide on calculating fuse requirements.

Thanks again for the help!
 
Dodog, you're welcome.

Topo' 300 VA/ line voltage = max current, so 300/120 = 2.5A. You'll probably need a bit more and/or slow blow due to inrush current, but 3A should be plenty. The idea is to fuse as closely to the transformer rating as possible without random fuse blows on startup.
 
Sorry, one more set of questions. I'm having trouble figuring out how to wire the power. I'm using the V3 Universal Power Supply board for my build.

Looking at the pictures of the terminal blocks at the end of post 1, I see a couple of CL-60 thermistors and a cap bridging the terminals. I'm a bit uncertain where the terminal blocks fit in. I see what looks like two sets of terminal blocks in the pictures with thermistors and caps, but it's unclear where the wires go.

Looking at the schematic, it looks like the thermistors and cap are required between the IEC inlet and the primaries of the transformer? Is that right? Where does the second terminal block fit in? I will be eternally grateful if someone can demystify this wiring for me!

Also, what type of caps should I be using here? .0033 uF is specified in the schematic... can I use any capacitor provided it has a .0033 uF value, or is there something specific I should be looking for?

Thanks again to everyone for all of the help! I'm having a lot of fun learning about this stuff as I go.
 
Yes. Absolutely.

Thanks, Jim!

As an aside, I emailed Antek, asking about new 18V trafos. Man, super-prompt response; a new shipment is expected January 31st. I'll wait a few weeks for the (2x) 18V unit but will keep the other units in mind if this plan falls through.

Can you verify that this is the correct unit?:

AS-3218 - 300VA 18V Transformer - AnTek Products Corp

ZM has me second-guessing myself.
 
Looking at the schematic, it looks like the thermistors and cap are required between the IEC inlet and the primaries of the transformer? Is that right? Where does the second terminal block fit in? I will be eternally grateful if someone can demystify this wiring for me!

Also, what type of caps should I be using here? .0033 uF is specified in the schematic... can I use any capacitor provided it has a .0033 uF value, or is there something specific I should be looking for?

Thanks again to everyone for all of the help! I'm having a lot of fun learning about this stuff as I go.

CL30s between mains hot and transformer inlet, correct. There are views of two different builds, only one terminal block.

The 3.3 nf cap across the power needs to be an X rated cap - designed to fail safely. Something like http://www.digikey.com/product-sear...s&keywords=490-4215-ND&x=8&y=16&formaction=on or http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/DE2E3KY332MA2BM01/490-4232-ND/1021468
 
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Because it's in stock and a couple of volts matters little.

You may get slightly more power out if your speakers are highish impedance. Look at the bias, multiplied by 1.6 as max output current. Is that enough the higher voltage swing won't exceed available current into your speaker?