I want to replace the 10k R3x im using now. Probably gonna buy that one:
Farnell Export
Is 11.8k enough?
Edit: link doesnt work. Resistor is Neohm YR series 15ppm 250mw 0.1% metal alloy
Farnell Export
Is 11.8k enough?
Edit: link doesnt work. Resistor is Neohm YR series 15ppm 250mw 0.1% metal alloy
Last edited:
Sorry, I missed that last sentence.
Yes, I need to drop V-regulator (LT317) for VU meter.
Do you think V-drop will be too high?
What is a min value of V from Raw to serve shunts correctly?
Does LT/LM317 can induce some noise (like a back-flow) into Folded shunts?
Thank you.
Today i replaced the interstage cap to 51.1nf value , same type polystyrene cap im using, and the bass is faster and punchier. So this one is a keeper.
The biggest revelation came from replacing the Amtrans resistors i had in R1 with TX2352 3k9 0.5% (still cant believe i forgot i had these in my stash... 😱 )
Soundstage is immersive, resolution is incredible. Swapping that resistor really changed the whole sonic presentation (Erlend you were right! 🙂 ). Im really tempted to get 5k miniohms and try them as well
The biggest revelation came from replacing the Amtrans resistors i had in R1 with TX2352 3k9 0.5% (still cant believe i forgot i had these in my stash... 😱 )
Soundstage is immersive, resolution is incredible. Swapping that resistor really changed the whole sonic presentation (Erlend you were right! 🙂 ). Im really tempted to get 5k miniohms and try them as well
For Dynavector 10X5 we have found in the Valve Itch 3K3 to 3K9 to be alright, so better add any alternative type and value to another position and populate your DIP switch to start having options. I was using my DL160 with 8K load some years back for instance. So maybe good for the DL110 too, but I don't know, maybe I would prefer lower in the FSP. Fast changing facility with DIP is a handy way to know best load. 3K9, 5K, 8K, 47K can make parallel combinations also.
I strongly suggest that if you used the DIP switches to select your optimum load, and then removed the DIP switch and simply soldered in that value resistor, you would get an increase in sound quality.
Switches of any sort at cartridge signal levels degrade the sound, IME. Better to use a second pair of input RCA sockets, in parallel, so "loaded" RCA plugs can be inserted in these.
Regards,
Andy
There is no need to remove the DIP, a wire jumper underneath can do the same if someone finds it more transparent using a single hardwired load value.😉
I dont think i will be installing the dip switch, values around 4-5k sounds balanced to me. Listening to Pink Floyd's Meddle now. Echoes sounds amazing! 
The word to define the sound of your phono is naturalness. Reminds me the first time i heard a multibit dac (ad1865nk) compared to my modded Pioneer pdd6 SACD. Music just sounded more real. My modded VLPS can now rest in peace
I'm also developing an itch to tweak the h@#$ out of your phono 😀
I have 2 Rifa PEH 169 10000uf. Im gonna definately try them in the PSU
The word to define the sound of your phono is naturalness. Reminds me the first time i heard a multibit dac (ad1865nk) compared to my modded Pioneer pdd6 SACD. Music just sounded more real. My modded VLPS can now rest in peace
I'm also developing an itch to tweak the h@#$ out of your phono 😀
I have 2 Rifa PEH 169 10000uf. Im gonna definately try them in the PSU
Alright, happy about you liking it so much. Any personal favorites about building parts, popular carts and loads, TT settings, etc. I am sure the FSP users are eager to know about, so keep posting any new info. The lower value C3 option tightens the bass in some systems that is needed or preferred as mentioned in the guide and you confirmed. Did you try different signal cabling by the way? We will also see it sometime finished in details & properly boxed up on your audio rack in some future photo I presume.
Rg174 cable is scheduled for tomorrow morning shopping. It might take a while for the unit to be properly boxed and presentable but i promise to post a nice photo to display all its glory 🙂
If there is little Mogami professional thin enough coax or alike you could get as a scrap from a DIYer friend, such studio grade pure copper coax cables are good options also. I.e. Patch cables. KLOTZ is good too.
Don't end up lower than 10V drop from raw to shunt reg out (rail or "B+") for good CCS quality and stability.
About drop across 317 for your VU meter 5V should be OK not to heat it much and not letting it dropping out for mains tolerances. If you will need more drop due to raw-(VU +V max), sink it.
Can't say about possible tap off to 317 interactions without an oscilloscope on an individual build. Its most about spotting and solving such things practically with lab gear if they occur. You only got your ears in your case I guess. So if no quality is lost and no new noise appears don't start worrying. Not scientific enough, but still practical.