If the alternators bridge is broken the alternator gives AC voltage readings. Were is that 13.7VDC? You have said both: at battery and at amplifier, is this correct? I can't see any reason why you couldn't TEST that fuse -bypass. And try to jump the remote, remote wire is the one from HU to amp....it starts up the amplifier. Remove that wire from amp terminal and place a jump wire from amp B+ to REM. My english may be difficult to understand, but atleast try to. You have been given a quite many options to test and try out...so please a little own trying on this and test/try and if nothing previous work we'll figure out more.
I will try to put a new wire without fuse tomorrow to check. Just i hope while ill be testing it wont happen anything bad without fuse.If the alternators bridge is broken the alternator gives AC voltage readings. Were is that 13.7VDC? You have said both: at battery and at amplifier, is this correct? I can't see any reason why you couldn't TEST that fuse -bypass. And try to jump the remote, remote wire is the one from HU to amp....it starts up the amplifier. Remove that wire from amp terminal and place a jump wire from amp B+ to REM. My english may be difficult to understand, but atleast try to. You have been given a quite many options to test and try out...so please a little own trying on this and test/try and if nothing previous work we'll figure out more.
I will check all options as soon as i can. I will give more of correct information tomorrow morning. thx for now
Last edited:
Check the ground and check the ground from the body to the battery. Don't forget to upgrade the ground on the body too.
Its really getting difficult to understand everything, u mean upgrade that wire which connects ground and negative terminal on battery? I even have no idea where it comes from. But i will try to do some research...Check the ground and check the ground from the body to the battery. Don't forget to upgrade the ground on the body too.
Also im pretty sure that i have grounded amp very well but still, how can i check if amp is properly grounded, i mean beside visual check?
If there is no issues like alternator sound from subs or bang on amp start up/off then I doubt the groundings.....BUT grounding cannot be too good, so not a bad idea to check those out. You can test your power system with next steps: 1. Get a multimeter on hand, be sure that battery is fully charged 2. Play 50Hz sine wave from your HU as loud as you get it clean (no clipping) I assume that you have measured your clear/clip volume position? 3. Measure DC voltage from battery 4. Measure DC voltage from amp terminal. There should not be difference no more than 100mV between those measurements (battery-amp). If there is..you'll have to figure out why. Battery no good? Battery too lazy giving current? Power wire too small? Bad groundings/too small wire? Bad connections somewhere?
Last edited:
Your only gonna bypass the fuse inline with the battery for a test to see if the amp works correctly try replacing the fuse with a new one.
I've seen those fuses test good until they get warm then I've seen them do all sorts if strange things. And when they cool down they work again
Try starting with the fuse first off
I've seen those fuses test good until they get warm then I've seen them do all sorts if strange things. And when they cool down they work again
Try starting with the fuse first off
If there is no issues like alternator sound from subs or bang on amp start up/off then I doubt the groundings.....BUT grounding cannot be too good, so not a bad idea to check those out. You can test your power system with next steps: 1. Get a multimeter on hand, be sure that battery is fully charged 2. Play 50Hz sine wave from your HU as loud as you get it clean (no clipping) I assume that you have measured your clear/clip volume position? 3. Measure DC voltage from battery 4. Measure DC voltage from amp terminal. There should not be difference no more than 100mV between those measurements (battery-amp). If there is..you'll have to figure out why. Battery no good? Battery too lazy giving current? Power wire too small? Bad groundings/too small wire? Bad connections somewhere?
What do u mean bang? when i turn on HU and HU turns on amp, sub bangs once.
How i will play 50Hz wave??
Measure DC voltaege on battery or on HU?
So some research ive done today, i found out that it goes to protection mode when sub is connected to bridged channels, after i took sub wires out of amp, protection mode turned off. So what i can see its not the problem in HU or RCAs cables. It should be sub? Just i didnt think sub could be bad... because last guy didnt mention that something is wrong with this one.
Tomorrow i have asked my friend if i can borrow his sub and connect to my amp to see if the reason is my sub
hmm, but why on ACC it works perfectly... and on engine running it doesnt? See no logic
Could be you have fried the sub. Check its impedance with a multimeter.
Be aware that in bridged mode the impedance needed is twice that of stereo mode.
Could be you have fried the sub. Check its impedance with a multimeter.
Be aware that in bridged mode the impedance needed is twice that of stereo mode.
Have measured, its 4 ohm. This sub and this amp were working fine before on different car.
What do u mean bang? when i turn on HU and HU turns on amp, sub bangs once.
How i will play 50Hz wave??
Measure DC voltaege on battery or on HU?
Yes, that 'bang' I mean..or would you say 'pop'..something like that 🙂 That usually means bad groundings if it pops on startup. It can also be (more likely if you have a pioneer HU) burned rca ground seal in HU. HU's rca ground seal you can measure with multimeter, place other probe to HU chassis and another one on RCA ground (the outer surface)....measure ohms -> if everything is fine it should measure 0ohms. Sine wave you can play from you HU using cd or usb stick or whatever. If you don't have that kind of file..you can download them from the net, google will find (50Hz sine wave download). You need that sine wave also for example finding out when your HU starts to clip signal and setting GAIN from amp to right (clean) level. You can start a new topic on those subjects (HU clipping/setting GAIN). When measuring voltage loss on a system...you measure readings from battery and amplifier power terminal. If battery shows, lets say 12.85VDC and amp terminal 12.40VDC -> your voltage loss is 12.85-12.40=0.45V. You should always measure with all power taken from amp..otherways it doesn't show you the truth.
Yes, that 'bang' I mean..or would you say 'pop'..something like that 🙂 That usually means bad groundings if it pops on startup. It can also be (more likely if you have a pioneer HU) burned rca ground seal in HU. HU's rca ground seal you can measure with multimeter, place other probe to HU chassis and another one on RCA ground (the outer surface)....measure ohms -> if everything is fine it should measure 0ohms. Sine wave you can play from you HU using cd or usb stick or whatever. If you don't have that kind of file..you can download them from the net, google will find (50Hz sine wave download). You need that sine wave also for example finding out when your HU starts to clip signal and setting GAIN from amp to right (clean) level. You can start a new topic on those subjects (HU clipping/setting GAIN). When measuring voltage loss on a system...you measure readings from battery and amplifier power terminal. If battery shows, lets say 12.85VDC and amp terminal 12.40VDC -> your voltage loss is 12.85-12.40=0.45V. You should always measure with all power taken from amp..otherways it doesn't show you the truth.
omg... u made my brains stop working now 😀 Its really difficult for beginner like me to understand all this stuff people telling me.
what do u mean with "burned rca ground seal in HU". So if it pops where is bad grounding? On amp or HU? i am really confused now.
Have downloaded this file, but i cant hear anything? How does it work when i will play this file on my HU?
Last edited:
Measures:
Battery when engine running - 14,2 VDC, 31 VAC. On ACC 12,07 VDC
Engine switched on/Engine switched off
Battery to HU -14.01 V / 11,75 V
Battery to Amp - 14,2 V / 12,07 V
From HU to amp remote - 13,75 V / 11,75 V
Amp to Ground 0,3 ohm
Chassis to negative battery showed 5ohm ( i dont know if it the right way to measure this)
I put a bride on amp from + to Rem. Measured 14,2V.
I put a new wire from battery possitive to possitive amp without fuse in the circuit.
I have checked again every damn wire. Nothing changed
Here i made a video of this issue, but i don't why its in so bad quality after i uploaded it... Hope this can help.
WP 20131222 003 - YouTube
Someone asked pics
http://postimg.org/image/6kg2gmi3d/
http://postimg.org/image/4v6z8k2e1/
http://postimg.org/image/j0csadbfd/
http://postimg.org/image/697imax7t/
http://postimg.org/image/ykt2jch49/
Battery when engine running - 14,2 VDC, 31 VAC. On ACC 12,07 VDC
Engine switched on/Engine switched off
Battery to HU -14.01 V / 11,75 V
Battery to Amp - 14,2 V / 12,07 V
From HU to amp remote - 13,75 V / 11,75 V
Amp to Ground 0,3 ohm
Chassis to negative battery showed 5ohm ( i dont know if it the right way to measure this)
I put a bride on amp from + to Rem. Measured 14,2V.
I put a new wire from battery possitive to possitive amp without fuse in the circuit.
I have checked again every damn wire. Nothing changed
Here i made a video of this issue, but i don't why its in so bad quality after i uploaded it... Hope this can help.
WP 20131222 003 - YouTube
Someone asked pics
http://postimg.org/image/6kg2gmi3d/
http://postimg.org/image/4v6z8k2e1/
http://postimg.org/image/j0csadbfd/
http://postimg.org/image/697imax7t/
http://postimg.org/image/ykt2jch49/
Last edited:
holy cow! what do you mean 31 volt ac across the battery terminals! i think your problem is in the alternator probably a diode failiure which is why it craps out when the car is running!
and after looking at the pic's your running a 1000 watt amp on 8 gauge. if i'm interpreting your voltage readings right your amps trying to cope with current starvation too.
p.s. can you show the front face(controls)
and after looking at the pic's your running a 1000 watt amp on 8 gauge. if i'm interpreting your voltage readings right your amps trying to cope with current starvation too.
p.s. can you show the front face(controls)
holy cow! what do you mean 31 volt ac across the battery terminals! i think your problem is in the alternator probably a diode failiure which is why it craps out when the car is running!
and after looking at the pic's your running a 1000 watt amp on 8 gauge. if i'm interpreting your voltage readings right your amps trying to cope with current starvation too.
p.s. can you show the front face(controls)
haha 😀 Well i havent used this car for 3 days so maybe battery wasnt charged fully, so why it shows so much? "can you show the front face(controls)" explain do u mean amp?
Probably i had to take a ride before i measured..
Last edited:
To make it easier why not just connect amp to a different car and see if my car is the reason amp doesnt want to work properly. So im thinking to get rca cable and power wire.
Im planning to connect rca from that another cars HU to my amp, power wire from another cars battery to amp. Can i use ground in my car or should i use also ground from my amp to another car. How safe is to put power wire without fuse? Dont want anything happen with brand new dads audi 😀
So if ill do that i will know is the problem in my car (alternator/battery) Do u think this can work and should i do this?
Pls need your advice, it sounds quite smart
Im planning to connect rca from that another cars HU to my amp, power wire from another cars battery to amp. Can i use ground in my car or should i use also ground from my amp to another car. How safe is to put power wire without fuse? Dont want anything happen with brand new dads audi 😀
So if ill do that i will know is the problem in my car (alternator/battery) Do u think this can work and should i do this?
Pls need your advice, it sounds quite smart
i don't know where your from but where i live getting an alternator bench tested is 40 dollars (canadian)is well worth having done by a qualified tech.
no offense intended but from the questions you just asked i think you need to seek help from someone qualified because unless you don't like your new dad and his audi as well as your equipment mistakes can get costly fast!!
and unless you transplant the head unit and power wiring your substitution idea isn't as feasible as you think!
and yes i did mean the amp.
no offense intended but from the questions you just asked i think you need to seek help from someone qualified because unless you don't like your new dad and his audi as well as your equipment mistakes can get costly fast!!
and unless you transplant the head unit and power wiring your substitution idea isn't as feasible as you think!
and yes i did mean the amp.
Last edited:
i don't know where your from but where i live getting an alternator bench tested is 40 dollars (canadian)is well worth having done by a qualified tech.
no offense intended but from the questions you just asked i think you need to seek help from someone qualified because unless you don't like your new dad and his audi as well as your equipment mistakes can get costly fast!!
and unless you transplant the head unit and power wiring your substitution idea isn't as feasible as you think!
and yes i did mean the amp.
Here where i live it will cost a lot, just before thinking about stereo system didnt think it can be so complicated, and if i knew i wouldnt even start installing it. But i have started so i guess somehow i should figure it out, cant just give up on this. I will wait mono amp which should come this week, so i will just try that one. Just everything is too complicated for beginner like me.
Pic u asked i will put tomorrow, but i dont think it somehow should help.
don't run any (especially)new equipment in this car until you find the source of the A.C. you measured. that can hurt your new amp too.not a cost effective way of resolving your problem.
my reason for wanting to see the face/controls on the amp was to try and familiarize myself with the unit as i'm still not having an luck obtaining any translatable tech info to find out if it is indeed bridgeable and insure settings are correct.
can you get a used or rebuilt alternator for cheap and replace it yourself?
my reason for wanting to see the face/controls on the amp was to try and familiarize myself with the unit as i'm still not having an luck obtaining any translatable tech info to find out if it is indeed bridgeable and insure settings are correct.
can you get a used or rebuilt alternator for cheap and replace it yourself?
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
- Home
- General Interest
- Car Audio
- Amp cuts only when engine is running