Sorry for coming late to this topic - boards only arrived last week and since last night - it's playing 🙂
Following the crystal clear guide building was entirely problem free. Two, slightly tweaked for output voltage 60VA Talemas, MUR860, Nichicon KG 15000 and the rest - parts out of my drawers and of course Tea Bag's great minikit. Went for the highest gain which works perfectly with a Cadenza Red. No hiss, nearly no hum with the boards screwed onto a piece of wood with no screening at all.
Soundwise - still caps to break in but it is very, very good. Big thanks to Salas and Tea Bag.
What impresses me most is the extremely low subjective distortion. Very clean transients, great resolution and microdetails. Very natural decays. I may wish for a tad fuller bass but this is really nit picking, besides coupling caps are still new.
I get about 10v at the output follower, not sure if it's worth finding a correct idss ccs for exactly half the supply voltage.
Recently got to listen to Naim's Superline and much to my surprise i quite liked it. It is obviously not too different to the simplistic if one does not pay too much attention to loop feedback, bipolar inputs and tantalum coupling caps 🙂
Which sets an obvious upgrade path for my version of the simplistic - remove a couple of resistors and decoupling caps and fit each channel with 3 or 4 BiBs.
Following the crystal clear guide building was entirely problem free. Two, slightly tweaked for output voltage 60VA Talemas, MUR860, Nichicon KG 15000 and the rest - parts out of my drawers and of course Tea Bag's great minikit. Went for the highest gain which works perfectly with a Cadenza Red. No hiss, nearly no hum with the boards screwed onto a piece of wood with no screening at all.
Soundwise - still caps to break in but it is very, very good. Big thanks to Salas and Tea Bag.
What impresses me most is the extremely low subjective distortion. Very clean transients, great resolution and microdetails. Very natural decays. I may wish for a tad fuller bass but this is really nit picking, besides coupling caps are still new.
I get about 10v at the output follower, not sure if it's worth finding a correct idss ccs for exactly half the supply voltage.
Recently got to listen to Naim's Superline and much to my surprise i quite liked it. It is obviously not too different to the simplistic if one does not pay too much attention to loop feedback, bipolar inputs and tantalum coupling caps 🙂
Which sets an obvious upgrade path for my version of the simplistic - remove a couple of resistors and decoupling caps and fit each channel with 3 or 4 BiBs.
Attachments
Well you have been busy 😉.... Well done!
I'm waiting for trafo and a bunch of 2sk170bl's Before I can finish mine.
Regards
Salas, any objections to drive 2 simplistics vith one PSU (2*50VA=2*2*18VAC)?
Both on but only one Active at any time.
Regards
Both on but only one Active at any time.
Regards
Electrically no. Just disconnect one from the PSU at a point to see if there are any benefits when playing completely alone.
Yes, maybe. But that would take us back to If 30VA is enough for 1 simplistic active and so forth.
If 30V/A is considered to be enough for one fully engaged then 50V/A should be enough holding one engaged and one warm.
Given this was an simplistic i'll give it a try.
Regards
Hi Salas,
Some members are presented Raw DC PSU module constructions that deviates from your design found in Folded manual. Can you please comment on that since I do not know if I need to add some resistors or chokes into that circuit. So far, I use all parts and construction type found in the manual.
In other words, will you recommend in advance to add resistors, chokes and/or additional elcaps for RC, CRC, LC, CLC (Pi) to make it quieter?
Thank you.
Some members are presented Raw DC PSU module constructions that deviates from your design found in Folded manual. Can you please comment on that since I do not know if I need to add some resistors or chokes into that circuit. So far, I use all parts and construction type found in the manual.
In other words, will you recommend in advance to add resistors, chokes and/or additional elcaps for RC, CRC, LC, CLC (Pi) to make it quieter?
Thank you.
Me I kept it simple as in the guide. Only builders that had it simple PSU, listened, and then added stuff to compare, can answer your question reliably.
Got it.
Thank you.
Guys, please share with your experience and reasons why did you use some extra components.
So far i haven't but very possibly will include a CLC filter at a later stage. Why? Because i like what it does for the sound. I even have one in the power supply for my turntable dc motor. For the same reason.
If you want a more engineering reply - it smoothens the caps charging currents and as a consequence there is less harmonics and noise in the ps.
If you want a more engineering reply - it smoothens the caps charging currents and as a consequence there is less harmonics and noise in the ps.
I agree with Turbon.
The theory is clear and it was chewed all over internet widely.
What change it made for YOUR (I mean for all who tried to add some more filtration types into Raw DC) sound?
Thank you.
The theory is clear and it was chewed all over internet widely.
What change it made for YOUR (I mean for all who tried to add some more filtration types into Raw DC) sound?
Thank you.
Tonight I finally pulled the trigger and ordered the remaining parts. How can such a simple circuit get so expensive? 😱 I still need to order cases, but will wait until I have all the parts for the raw supply to measure and see what I need.
Meanwhile I have been measuring transistors and diodes. Soldering iron is getting itchy.
The reason it has taken so long to order the extra parts is that I always have a feeling that I'm forgetting something, so I put it off to review again later.
Meanwhile I have been measuring transistors and diodes. Soldering iron is getting itchy.
The reason it has taken so long to order the extra parts is that I always have a feeling that I'm forgetting something, so I put it off to review again later.
