Power cords and plugs (split from Beyond Ariel)

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On a first glance, I don't see how we can clean the Earth/Gnd without violating the safety rules.
If anyone may have an idea, I'd be glad to see – and possibly try.

It is a must to improve the grounding of house electrical circuit. Developers and building contractors don't have interest in good grounding so it is the owner's call to do it. Usually copper rod is used and old ground well is used to get to the deep ground. 0 volt between neutral and earth.

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This will improve audio, lower electrical bill, longer life equipments
 
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2. AFAIK, there is no solid explanation of why power plugs of the same manufacturer, having different coatings, have different sonic signature. I looked at you gallery and found no explanation for that. If you have an explanation, I'd be glad to hear it. Please note, I'm talking about power plugs, not RCA or XLR plugs.
Unfortunately, so long as you treat the equipment you purchase as 'black boxes' - the insides are untouchable - then your options are severely limited. All equipment has weaknesses, and the only really robust solution is to dive inside and 'fix up' these problems.

Therefore, you will have to play a balancing game, rather than a resolving or solving one; you will have to adjust all the 'rubber bands' in various ways to give yourself "optimum" sound - a tricky way to doing things, there will always be the next recording which exposes the fact that the mesh of 'rubber bands' holding everything in balance is still not quite sophisticated enough ...
 
BTW, I have 4 isolation transformers, feeding my sound system. All of them are E-I core, each has balanced secondary and simple RFI filter before the primary.
If you want to give yourself more options for trying mains filtering methods there's the FELECIA, a DIY Balanced Power Conditioner project, at the Audiocircle forum. I spent some time playing with this, there are numerous things to try, all with effects ...
 
Well, I was inspired to look at the DiffMaker program again - fool me!!!

This "software" takes the cake for probably the most poorly written program I've come across in a long time - I struggled for quarter of an hour to get it to do anything - literally anything!! - and gave up in disgust. I thought to myself, I'll get another of those test difference files from the DiffMaker website, and run though the procedure ... no matter what I did the program refused to do anything sensible, with 2 separate files I downloaded, merely crashing in different ways or going away into la-la land forever.

I don't know the magic incantation to make this silly program behave - anyone got ideas ...?

Yes, DiffMaker is a bit quirky. However, by keeping the files under 60 seconds should not throw an error. Ideally speaking you want to keep the sample start position the same for both the reference file and the comparison file. I wrote about some of that here: FLAC vs WAV Part 2 Final Results - Blogs - Computer Audiophile
And here: JRiver vs JPLAY Test Results - Blogs - Computer Audiophile

Also: Archimago's Musings: PROTOCOL: [UPDATED] The DiffMaker Audio Composite (DMAC) Test.

Hope that helps. Cheers.
 
Maybe one way to get around mains noise is to build an efficient battery powered system which is only recharged when not being used. Batteries create their own chemical noise but lead acid battery noise is very low, probably much lower than the mains supply . I have a 12v DAC, netbook etc which I could run off their own individual battery's. I could also rig up the Brian GT LM3886 amp I have to run off a pair of 12v battery's.

I might give it a go one day when I'm bored enough 😀
 
It is a must to improve the grounding of house electrical circuit. Developers and building contractors don't have interest in good grounding so it is the owner's call to do it. Usually copper rod is used and old ground well is used to get to the deep ground. 0 volt between neutral and earth.

ADD:

This will improve audio, lower electrical bill, longer life equipments

Hi,
Thank you.
I did it long time ago, I hired an electrician to make as good ground as possible. It consists of a copper rod buried in the ground plus connection to the metal frame of the house, which enters the ground.
 
😀Just remembered that "different color insulation story" that Bill Whitelock told.
Talk about grounding, you might want to check out his work. But you still have to study technology to get it right.
 
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It looks to me unwise neither to believe me nor to disbelieve me only because of I said so.
On the same token, those who are convinced that I fell pray to placebo effect are unwise, because of they have no way of knowing the facts of the matter. They are only guessing, however, they confuse their guesses with facts.


The only benefit of this thread is that I know who to put on the ignore list.

Please, moderators, put everyone out of their increasing misery with this absurd nonsense where all the Laws of Nature are conveniently ignored because someone can "hear" something that cannot be found or measured?
 
As Jneutron has given pointers to and I have tried a couple of threads in the past the interaction is between the cables and the boxes and so the whole (WHOLE) system has to be considered. It is a widely studied field of electronics and one area often ignored by DIYers (it is a coin with two faces):
EMC (or the other side of the coin) SIGNAL INTEGRITY.

What |I cant understand is why the OP asked in his first post for an explanation and then ignores every attempt to try and explain.
But to reiterate we call these problems EMC issues in the normal world of electronics, it rears its ugly head many times.
 
Please, moderators, put everyone out of their increasing misery with this absurd nonsense where all the Laws of Nature are conveniently ignored because someone can "hear" something that cannot be found or measured?

The site's policy is not to do any technical censorship, no matter how wildly hands are being waved or how goofy and unsubstantiated the claims. The "ignore" list is a powerful tool.
 
In post 1:
Joshua_G said:
On my system, to my ears (and to others’ ears), different power cables and different plugs connected to those cables do make a prominent sonic difference. Moreover, power plugs of the same manufacturer having different metal coating have prominent different sonic signature. Power plugs of different manufacturer have prominent different sonic signature compared to power plugs from the first manufacturer, made of the (proclaimed) same material.

I’d love to hear an explanation for the above phenomenon.
(My underline)

In post 163:
Joshua_G said:
1. I didn't say I don't know the technical arguments, I said I have no interest in discussing in this thread those technical arguments.

I am unclear: has Joshua changed his kind about the purpose of this thread (and if so, at what point did that happen?), or was he always seeking an untechnical explanation? I say 'untechnical' because 'nontechnical' generally means 'technical but simple' and I mean 'not technical at all'. What is now the purpose of this thread?
 
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