Glad to see that this thread is still live! Great stuff!
Perhaps this link will help, very detailed plans with Ultra exact measurements:
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/tannoy/files/Autograph/SketchUp%20Plans/
Best wishes to all!
Perhaps this link will help, very detailed plans with Ultra exact measurements:
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/tannoy/files/Autograph/SketchUp%20Plans/
Best wishes to all!
Hi Lazenna, guys...
I do not know how the metal particles went there...I suspect that they are part of the magnet!
But as how they arrived there, I am puzzled because the internal part of the magnet, which forms the gap where the cylinder (I think it is called coil former(?)) makes the <old in and out> , is all covered by steel...
To remove the woofer cone I had to detach the outer edge or suspension manually from the metal wheel of the <basket> (sorry I do not know very well the nomencalture) then detach with a chisel the <spider> which I think is the name for the internal suspension. Then you have to remove the tinsel leads to allow for full remotion of the woofer and inspection of the gap. At this point you might consider a better way of connecting the speaker wires like soldering directly to the external end of the leads but make sure they are attached to a firm place and isolated from the frame. There is one point on the basket where a bar or plate of non conducting material can be connected to place the leads.
Take your time and whenever the is risk of damaging the cone by using a sharp instrument, use the <painful technique> that is protect the cone with your fingers!
Use a potent vacuum cleaner and thin metal leads to remove particles...
When you are done you must apply suitable glue to the areas where the cone and spider were attached BUT you must be 100% sure that they are optimally centered to avoid the coil former touching the metal parts!
Put pressure on the glued areas. Allow time for the glue to act...and that is it.
This was my first time so probably the experts could share some advice also...I act by intuition most of the time
Good luck.
M
I do not know how the metal particles went there...I suspect that they are part of the magnet!
But as how they arrived there, I am puzzled because the internal part of the magnet, which forms the gap where the cylinder (I think it is called coil former(?)) makes the <old in and out> , is all covered by steel...To remove the woofer cone I had to detach the outer edge or suspension manually from the metal wheel of the <basket> (sorry I do not know very well the nomencalture) then detach with a chisel the <spider> which I think is the name for the internal suspension. Then you have to remove the tinsel leads to allow for full remotion of the woofer and inspection of the gap. At this point you might consider a better way of connecting the speaker wires like soldering directly to the external end of the leads but make sure they are attached to a firm place and isolated from the frame. There is one point on the basket where a bar or plate of non conducting material can be connected to place the leads.
Take your time and whenever the is risk of damaging the cone by using a sharp instrument, use the <painful technique> that is protect the cone with your fingers!
Use a potent vacuum cleaner and thin metal leads to remove particles...
When you are done you must apply suitable glue to the areas where the cone and spider were attached BUT you must be 100% sure that they are optimally centered to avoid the coil former touching the metal parts!
Put pressure on the glued areas. Allow time for the glue to act...and that is it.
This was my first time so probably the experts could share some advice also...I act by intuition most of the time
Good luck.
M
I've read most of this thread and now want to build a pair of Autographs to satisfy my curiosity. I found some plans, but they are sorely lacking in crisp details. Ah, but isn't that the joy of DIY--when you finish something you have to struggle with, it's all that more rewarding.
I'm very appreciative of your efforts, Max, as well as the responses from our DIY audiophiles.
I'm very appreciative of your efforts, Max, as well as the responses from our DIY audiophiles.
Hi dear Carpenter,
Thank you for your kind words.
I think I posted some plans on this (or "the other") thread, but mail me if you want a copy of the cleaned-up plans that I used for the build: maxlorenz24 at gmail.com
I love courageous people: it took me 4 months of almost daily (if lonely) work to complete the project. I have received many "notification of intention" to build but none reported back successful construction.
Please feel free to ask for help or advice. I'll do my best.
To start, I can advice to build the worst part, the front horn, first on cheap 12mm MDF to get the dimensions right, then build on good quality marine plywood following the recorded dimensions. If you get it right I will ask you to post your measurements because mine are awful
I am still in love with my Autographs. All you need is good corners and good system behind.
Best of lucks,
M.
Thank you for your kind words.
I think I posted some plans on this (or "the other") thread, but mail me if you want a copy of the cleaned-up plans that I used for the build: maxlorenz24 at gmail.com
I love courageous people: it took me 4 months of almost daily (if lonely) work to complete the project. I have received many "notification of intention" to build but none reported back successful construction.
Please feel free to ask for help or advice. I'll do my best.
To start, I can advice to build the worst part, the front horn, first on cheap 12mm MDF to get the dimensions right, then build on good quality marine plywood following the recorded dimensions. If you get it right I will ask you to post your measurements because mine are awful
I am still in love with my Autographs. All you need is good corners and good system behind.
Best of lucks,
M.
My dear, distant (way, way, way away across the planet) friend, Choky, sent me the most beautiful Autograph prints a man could ask for. Talk about friendship!!
BTW, Choky, my Cine-Mag input transformer arrived by the time I came home from work, today. I hooked it up in balanced mode, added 22k to ground on each input and fired the sucker up! My God, where's those Autographs when you need them. I can't believe the smooth, creamy, dreamy notes floating from my little 4 inch Tang-Band titanium speaker! Oh, I'm definitely going to build a pair of Autographs...
I'm considering drivers at the moment; I've heard the Audio Nirvana Cast 10--very, very nice, but only a 10" driver. The Cast 15 looks great at first blush, but has too high a Qts, 0.5 I believe, and a horn wants a much lower value.
Max, I can listen to your superlatives regarding your Autograph horns all day long Your verbal magic is what inspired me to move ahead with this project. Also, my friend Eric Gonzales has been hinting around forever about the Tannoy Westminster. I notice that the two horns seem similar. I want a 60" tall horn, so the Autograph is where I'm taking my passion. Any input on drivers will be most appreciated. I would love to keep the full range driver concept, if at all possible. Like I said earlier, the Audio Nirvana Cast 10s are very pleasant to listen to--especially when you add a zobel network.
Love you guys!
BTW, Choky, my Cine-Mag input transformer arrived by the time I came home from work, today. I hooked it up in balanced mode, added 22k to ground on each input and fired the sucker up! My God, where's those Autographs when you need them. I can't believe the smooth, creamy, dreamy notes floating from my little 4 inch Tang-Band titanium speaker! Oh, I'm definitely going to build a pair of Autographs...
I'm considering drivers at the moment; I've heard the Audio Nirvana Cast 10--very, very nice, but only a 10" driver. The Cast 15 looks great at first blush, but has too high a Qts, 0.5 I believe, and a horn wants a much lower value.
Max, I can listen to your superlatives regarding your Autograph horns all day long
Your verbal magic is what inspired me to move ahead with this project. Also, my friend Eric Gonzales has been hinting around forever about the Tannoy Westminster. I notice that the two horns seem similar. I want a 60" tall horn, so the Autograph is where I'm taking my passion. Any input on drivers will be most appreciated. I would love to keep the full range driver concept, if at all possible. Like I said earlier, the Audio Nirvana Cast 10s are very pleasant to listen to--especially when you add a zobel network.Love you guys!
if possible - try to choose drivers which don't need any zobel ;
when you mount that drek on any driver and compar them - both with drivers which don't need that , and with same driver previously to zobel - magic is gone .
this sport is brutal and gentle in same time , so don't spoil it with bad choices - just take your time and spend your money wisest you can , even if that means tthat you must wait for best drivers time can bring in your direction
best - meaning - better ......
when you mount that drek on any driver and compar them - both with drivers which don't need that , and with same driver previously to zobel - magic is gone .
this sport is brutal and gentle in same time , so don't spoil it with bad choices - just take your time and spend your money wisest you can , even if that means tthat you must wait for best drivers time can bring in your direction
best - meaning - better ......
Actually, the zobel--a simple R/C network--sounded fantastic on this particular driver. It didn't spoil the magic, and I do know what you mean by magic. The driver just became smoother sounding, with the same crisp highs and forward vocal region. I ran these 10s in a T/L, if that makes a hill of beens to anyone.
Unfortunately, the Audio Nirvana series above the Cast 10 has high Qts, much too high for my future horn.
Rest assured, I'll be looking hard for the right driver.
Thanks for the suggestion, all the same.
Unfortunately, the Audio Nirvana series above the Cast 10 has high Qts, much too high for my future horn.
Rest assured, I'll be looking hard for the right driver.
Thanks for the suggestion, all the same.
For a full size Autograph, if I had the money, I would go for the very attractive P Audio BM15CX38, which are also offered at commonsenseaudio.
It has also a 2inch HF unit, like the Tannoy (and my humble second hand Beyma).
An AN15 would need the help of a superTweeter, I guess...
When this nightmare period/year ends, I will build my dreamed corner enclosures: modified Autograph for a full-range fullranger ANsuper10. The project is in suspense...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...loaded-fullrange-design-help-needed-wise.html
It would be modular in the development phase and asymetric in shape, to point to my sitting position, tailored to my other living-room which is 3,3m in width.
Regards,
M.
It has also a 2inch HF unit, like the Tannoy (and my humble second hand Beyma).
An AN15 would need the help of a superTweeter, I guess...
When this nightmare period/year ends, I will build my dreamed corner enclosures: modified Autograph for a full-range fullranger ANsuper10. The project is in suspense...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...loaded-fullrange-design-help-needed-wise.html
It would be modular in the development phase and asymetric in shape, to point to my sitting position, tailored to my other living-room which is 3,3m in width.
Regards,
M.
I've considered the P Audio unit, but can't locate the T/S parameters. Without those, I'm not going anywhere near that driver.
The AN15's Qts is too high, and the coaxial unit is higher still.
The AN Cast 10 is a good choice Qt wise but is a bit shy on bottom end. What to do, what to do? I've thought about creating a front horn with a 20 inch vertical slot and using two different 10 inch drivers--one with bass and a full ranger stacked above. I don't know if that's ever been done. I've seen a unity horn with one bass driver facing the throat and four smaller high frequency units bolted on the four sides of the throat. They load the throat of the horn through small holes. At the time, it seemed an interesting experiment that one day I might try--perhaps the time is now?
The AN15's Qts is too high, and the coaxial unit is higher still.
The AN Cast 10 is a good choice Qt wise but is a bit shy on bottom end. What to do, what to do? I've thought about creating a front horn with a 20 inch vertical slot and using two different 10 inch drivers--one with bass and a full ranger stacked above. I don't know if that's ever been done. I've seen a unity horn with one bass driver facing the throat and four smaller high frequency units bolted on the four sides of the throat. They load the throat of the horn through small holes. At the time, it seemed an interesting experiment that one day I might try--perhaps the time is now?
For some reason, I can't expand your drawings, Max. It's rather frustrating to read a thread and not be able to see the graphics--and I'm sure you put a lot of thought into those drawings.
I have here the chart of the Beyma 15KX but can't find the complete one for the P Audio. I found this:
Speaker City sells speakers, drivers, audiophile loud: 15 in. Coaxial 700 watts 8 ohms
...that can help. Maybe if you email Mr. Dicks from commonsenseaudio; he can have the complete ones with response curves. I've seen those and the HF can do lower than 1000Hz.
About the project speaker: it will be made by "ear and intuition"
Good luck.
M.
Speaker City sells speakers, drivers, audiophile loud: 15 in. Coaxial 700 watts 8 ohms
...that can help. Maybe if you email Mr. Dicks from commonsenseaudio; he can have the complete ones with response curves. I've seen those and the HF can do lower than 1000Hz.
About the project speaker: it will be made by "ear and intuition"
Good luck.
M.
Google is your friend (for now)
P.Audio Coaxial Speakers - P.Audio BM15CX38 coaxial 15" speaker - P.Audio BM15CX38 500 watt 15" coaxial speaker for all full range applications. P.Audio BM15CX38 15" coaxial and other P.Audio coaxial speakers here.
This auzzie has a pair on sale (Australian dollar)
Pair of P.Audio BM-15CX38 600 Watt 15 Inch Coaxials - Public Address Systems | Portable PA Systems | DJ Equipment & Lighting
I'll search my database when I get home.
M.
P.Audio Coaxial Speakers - P.Audio BM15CX38 coaxial 15" speaker - P.Audio BM15CX38 500 watt 15" coaxial speaker for all full range applications. P.Audio BM15CX38 15" coaxial and other P.Audio coaxial speakers here.
This auzzie has a pair on sale (Australian dollar)
Pair of P.Audio BM-15CX38 600 Watt 15 Inch Coaxials - Public Address Systems | Portable PA Systems | DJ Equipment & Lighting
I'll search my database when I get home.
M.
Hi,
Real life has conspired to build new speakers and amps lately...
Anyway, yesterday a tried an old camera and made some movies of my second primary DIY system with the Autographs. The quality is horrid, though, sorry...
Tannoy Autograph clone - Beyma KX15 coaxial. - YouTube
(Yeah, I know. I'm not the best cameraman. Next time I'll use a tripod and sunlight)
Cheers,
M.
Real life has conspired to build new speakers and amps lately...
Anyway, yesterday a tried an old camera and made some movies of my second primary DIY system with the Autographs. The quality is horrid, though, sorry...
Tannoy Autograph clone - Beyma KX15 coaxial. - YouTube
(Yeah, I know. I'm not the best cameraman. Next time I'll use a tripod and sunlight)
Cheers,
M.