It's best to use isopropanol AKA IPA. Other stuff may eat the plastic lens and turn it opaque 😱
Is this the same as isopropyl alcohol? I hope so, because I have some.
Yes, isopropyl alcohol is the same. It also goes by the name rubbing alcohol.
Brill!
Thanks, guys, for the advice. 😀
EMI IEC 320 Connector
Any of you guys got a view/opinion on this?
Thinking of putting one onto a CD63 as part of the modding.
Male socket with EMI Filter. IEC 320-C14 Inlet. 3pin AC Inlet. YB10A1 | eBay
Any of you guys got a view/opinion on this?
Thinking of putting one onto a CD63 as part of the modding.
Male socket with EMI Filter. IEC 320-C14 Inlet. 3pin AC Inlet. YB10A1 | eBay
Any of you guys got a view/opinion on this?
Thinking of putting one onto a CD63 as part of the modding.
Male socket with EMI Filter. IEC 320-C14 Inlet. 3pin AC Inlet. YB10A1 | eBay
Nothing at the link.
Any of you guys got a view/opinion on this?
Thinking of putting one onto a CD63 as part of the modding.
Male socket with EMI Filter. IEC 320-C14 Inlet. 3pin AC Inlet. YB10A1 | eBay
I put one one but can't find any difference 🙂
Attachments
Thanks Higlander. I'll save myself some money then. Just thought it would help clean up the mains going into the unit. Other way I suppose is run it off a UPS. Overkill maybe? Anything that filters mains I thought would have an advantage. Gives the caps less to do, but an expensive way of doing it.
emi filter
I used one from an old pc psu didnt notice any change,🙂
cheers alan
I put one one but can't find any difference 🙂
I used one from an old pc psu didnt notice any change,🙂
cheers alan
Aren't the effects of fitting an iec filter difficult to quantify, unless you are listening to two players at the same time one with a filter one without, they start at £3.13 plus VAT at Farnell, surely thats not taht expensive, I feel they give the player a little more class, only my opinion as I don't like thinking I wasted money buying mine.
Tim
In MHO, everybody spends a lot of time cleaning up signal paths inside the unit, but let's face it. the majority of noise comes from transients from the mains.
E.g. you're listening along to a CD, and somebody puts a washer on elsewhere in the house. Motor start ups cause spikes and change the mains, generally in the rest of the house, entering the unit. True, very low, but there nonetheless.
For a couple of quid, it must be worth it.
Also shielded mains cable, earthed at the plug end, will also help stop stray signals being introduced, the Faraday Cage effect.
Just my thoughts. By the way, I'm a power engineer not electronics, we see it from different angles I suppose.
In MHO, everybody spends a lot of time cleaning up signal paths inside the unit, but let's face it. the majority of noise comes from transients from the mains.
E.g. you're listening along to a CD, and somebody puts a washer on elsewhere in the house. Motor start ups cause spikes and change the mains, generally in the rest of the house, entering the unit. True, very low, but there nonetheless.
For a couple of quid, it must be worth it.
Also shielded mains cable, earthed at the plug end, will also help stop stray signals being introduced, the Faraday Cage effect.
Just my thoughts. By the way, I'm a power engineer not electronics, we see it from different angles I suppose.
I looked into this as I have a few UPS kicking about including a very nice rack mounted APC one. The bottom line is they won't make any difference as they don't bring their batteries and such into play until the power's cut, and then when they do, the AC they give out really isn't the lovely clean supply you would like.Other way I suppose is run it off a UPS. Overkill maybe? Anything that filters mains I thought would have an advantage. Gives the caps less to do, but an expensive way of doing it.
I've got one of those EIC filtered sockets fitted on my CD63. I figured for the money, it's worth it. Means I can use a nice kettle lead to plug it in.
Only downside I've found is that it makes removing the board a little bit more of a hassle, but that's no real biggie.
If you want to find out how clean your power line is try using this :
Belkin PureAV Power Sniffer AC Line Noise Detector (AP00002ea) | Techdna.co.uk
I got one but it seems it is no more available in the market 🙁
Belkin PureAV Power Sniffer AC Line Noise Detector (AP00002ea) | Techdna.co.uk
I got one but it seems it is no more available in the market 🙁
Seen something similar used by a high end audio salesman to prove that they weren't getting any spurious noise from mains cables etc.
Do they work?
Do they work?
IMHO 0.047uF is low low. It should be somewhere between 0.1 to 0.25uF. Someone please correct me if I am wrong 🙂
Did some research. Apparently this is very important to keep the op-amp stable. At least 0.1uF across pins 4 and 8. I got hold of 0.1uF Wima MKS2 caps, nothing very fancy but decent, which I put across pins 4 and 8.
Now the sound quality is very good (few days of op-amp burn in + the Wima bypass caps).
I can swear I'm able to hear Ringo's bass drum pedal squeak on some Beatles tracks!
I bought one a year ago from Amazon costing 20 pounds at a clearance price . The device can show you if the power line is noisy or not. I found that in the afternoon the power lines are much noiser than the evening. The best is in early morning when all the electrical devices have not been put into service. Putting in line filters can reduce the noise level but not every device has the same performance, i.e. some good and some not as effective.Seen something similar used by a high end audio salesman to prove that they weren't getting any spurious noise from mains cables etc.
Do they work?
If you really want to have very clean power supply try to use one of these:I looked into this as I have a few UPS kicking about including a very nice rack mounted APC one. The bottom line is they won't make any difference as they don't bring their batteries and such into play until the power's cut, and then when they do, the AC they give out really isn't the lovely clean supply you would like.
I've got one of those EIC filtered sockets fitted on my CD63. I figured for the money, it's worth it. Means I can use a nice kettle lead to plug it in.
Only downside I've found is that it makes removing the board a little bit more of a hassle, but that's no real biggie.
Conditioning Balanced power supply
Though it is a bit expensive balanced power transformer can give you very clean power line supply and I am actually using one of them. Really effective and makes my HiFi system and TV with better clarity both visual and audio. My sniffer cannot detect any noise at all when the transformer is used.
Low jitter clock
Any of you used one of these, and if so, is it any good? I know it's cheap, but as a beginner at this, I'd rather kill a cheap item to start with, rather than a really good one. Alternatively, have searched for DIY kits, but can't seem to find one. Is there any.
1PPM 33.8688 16.9344 MHz Low Jitter TCXO Clock Module | eBay
Any of you used one of these, and if so, is it any good? I know it's cheap, but as a beginner at this, I'd rather kill a cheap item to start with, rather than a really good one. Alternatively, have searched for DIY kits, but can't seem to find one. Is there any.
1PPM 33.8688 16.9344 MHz Low Jitter TCXO Clock Module | eBay
Higlander.
They look very nice and seem to do a lot.
Wonder how much ferrite is used inside in the form of rings and beads?
Going to try the iec connector, and some screened Belden mains cable.
Probably wont make much difference, but I'll feel like I've at least done something.
They look very nice and seem to do a lot.
Wonder how much ferrite is used inside in the form of rings and beads?
Going to try the iec connector, and some screened Belden mains cable.
Probably wont make much difference, but I'll feel like I've at least done something.
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