The only horn system 'concept' more compromised than a two way horn system is a one way. Below that ranks the hybrid where the builder conceives in his mind a direct radiator bass can keep up with the upper horn - NEVER, always a toy compared to a true horn - Horns sound best segmented off within their bandwith/bandpass. Four way gets very good but a five way is where I find it really wipes the floor with all other systems including electrostatics, ribbons, cones/domes, "open baffle" and less worthy horn and horn hybrid compromises. Danley's multi driver horns can also be great if used with front horn bass and appropriate bottom octave horns - The king of kings is the five way horn
I don't disagree with you....just trying something 'simple' for a change.The only horn system 'concept' more compromised than a two way horn system is a one way. Below that ranks the hybrid where the builder conceives in his mind a direct radiator bass can keep up with the upper horn - NEVER, always a toy compared to a true horn - Horns sound best segmented off within their bandwith/bandpass. Four way gets very good but a five way is where I find it really wipes the floor with all other systems including electrostatics, ribbons, cones/domes, "open baffle" and less worthy horn and horn hybrid compromises. Danley's multi driver horns can also be great if used with front horn bass and appropriate bottom octave horns - The king of kings is the five way horn
With the Stereolabs, I'll probably build another down the track featuring:
Tweeter horn (3,000Hz up),
Mid (700 to 3000Hz)
Upper bass (300 to 700), I'll try the 140Hz horn suitable for 4 or 5 inch driver. I', thinking this model because the 100Hz horn is $3500 each vs $900 for the 140Hz.
Mid bass - probably one of my GOTO designs or an Altec front-loaded horn, from 90Hz to 350.
Subs - whatever. Either small tapped horns or something more exotic/bigger...eg Inlow design.
Also, I like the look of the Decware multi-way SET amps you can buy as kits. I could run six channels of SET to drive the top three horns...then separate Solid State amps for the bass units. Easy.
ZKIT2 / Zen Triode SET multi channel tube amplifier kit
Cheers
What are you running for your horns?
Andrew
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Yes, but there are solutions by building down firing (wall or corner placed) horns. Take a look for example at the Edgar "refrigerator" horn that is a good example of low compromise compact horn. I have built several of similar bottom octave horns for myself and others and with the correct placement and tuning they are stunning in the low bass and have no problem integrating with a no compromise bass horn.
Totally agree.The biggest difficulty is getting 20 to 100Hz in a horn to fit in a room and integrate.
I built the massive 18Hz tapped horn...fantastic for 20-40Hz...but horrible around 100Hz.
I suggest the best is to run 'conventional' horns from 70, 80Hz up...
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I use down firing wall and corner placed sub horns with 18's, corner firing 40 hz horns 1/8 size up to 50 -60 cycles, then to to 90 cycles loaded with twin 15's in 50 hz quarter sized, then 80 hz straight hypex horn loaded 8" to 600 cycles (sometimes to 900 can't decide what I like better) to 350 hz tractrix to 1500 hz tractrix at 3k with 1 inch driver
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I'm interested in your subs and 15's. Do you have a link to your system, pics?
I started this project with a Inlow design front loaded mid-bass, using 12-inch B&C driver. Huge slam...but cabinet too large for room, pity.
I started this project with a Inlow design front loaded mid-bass, using 12-inch B&C driver. Huge slam...but cabinet too large for room, pity.
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mid bass straight horns - bigger is better but they have to fit 🙂 It's hard to go to anything else after living with them for a while. the power and the energy of the music lives there
YES....!!! Finally got the 416's today from Great Plains Audio.
Wonderfulyl packed...very professional.
They look absolutely fantastic....heavy, very well machined...just a piece of art.
I was keen to get them into their custom boxes...so, after only 15 minutes, I had them playing. What a relief.
Without run-in, they are sounding very good. The cabinets are around 160 liters, so bass extension is good, most likely getting a flat response to 40Hz, then gradual roll off. I'll check this on the weekend with my signal Hz CD.
Running the separate 100-watt pro amp to drive the woofers, with a 500Hz passive xover.
On the weekend, I'll disconnect this amp and run the drivers through the Bob Crites 500/5000 xover from the 300B SET...but I suspect I'll have to attenuate the horns down somewhat. L-pad journey here I come.
The tapped horn subs were hardly needed...but if I run the drivers with the 300B, I'll probably retain the subs.
Wonderfulyl packed...very professional.
They look absolutely fantastic....heavy, very well machined...just a piece of art.
I was keen to get them into their custom boxes...so, after only 15 minutes, I had them playing. What a relief.
Without run-in, they are sounding very good. The cabinets are around 160 liters, so bass extension is good, most likely getting a flat response to 40Hz, then gradual roll off. I'll check this on the weekend with my signal Hz CD.
Running the separate 100-watt pro amp to drive the woofers, with a 500Hz passive xover.
On the weekend, I'll disconnect this amp and run the drivers through the Bob Crites 500/5000 xover from the 300B SET...but I suspect I'll have to attenuate the horns down somewhat. L-pad journey here I come.
The tapped horn subs were hardly needed...but if I run the drivers with the 300B, I'll probably retain the subs.
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Interested to hear your thoughts on the GPA 416. I am looking at that driver for a concrete LeCleach horn stand.
Interested to hear your thoughts on the GPA 416. I am looking at that driver for a concrete LeCleach horn stand.
I've listened to the drivers for less than one hour.
Some words to describe: effortless, smooth, 'detailed'.
What I did notice is that it loves to be turned up. At higher listening levels, the bass was punch and alive...at lower levels, it was 'normal bass'...if that makes sense.
I'm also going to look at a front horn for this driver...either VOTT A5/7 or something else.
http://www.lansingheritage.org/images/jbl/catalogs/1976-pro/page08.jpg
The JBL 4560 cab is good size and would operate very nice from 80Hz to 1000.
http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/low_frequency_enclosures2.pdf
The Rullit bass horn looks fantastic - see pic attached.
And this -
Wizard High-End Audio Blog: Blumenhofer Gran Gioia
The one I really love is the Volvotreter model -
Bass cabinets
How are you building your concrete horns?
What are you running for your mids/highs?
Where do you live? I'm in Sydney.
Andrew
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Oh, this is the earlier set of front loaded 100Hz mid-bass horns I built....60cm square mouth...90cm deep...used B&C PE32 12-inch drivers. See Inlow Sound.
Good bass, but too long for the room...hence the look out for a shorter, stubbier horn.
Good bass, but too long for the room...hence the look out for a shorter, stubbier horn.
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The concrete horn will be of the stand type, Jean Michel LeCleach has designed a few in France similar, however mine will be built with only the last meter in the listening room, the rest will be outside the rear of the room. Above that will be fane8m in a 160 hz LeCleach horn, yahaha 6681b in a 320 hz LeCleach horn, yahaha 4281b, and a Raal ribbon to finish off. All active with alephj amps. 90% finished after 3 years.
Bass horns like these?
GoodSoundClub - Romy the Cat's Audio Site - A phase plug as a tool or as a remedy?
GoodSoundClub - Romy the Cat's Audio Site - A phase plug as a tool or as a remedy?
.. nope to small 🙂
One of these, hanging out the back of the room with the final metre in the room
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...427-jean-michel-lecleach-horns-floor-horn.jpg
One of these, hanging out the back of the room with the final metre in the room
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...427-jean-michel-lecleach-horns-floor-horn.jpg
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