That's good. Anything over 90db is good for me. I only build SE (and SE\UL) tube amps. My lowest wattage amp is a 6EM7 integrated with a tube preamp section but only produces 2.5W. On my Fostex FE206Ens it is very loud. The amp would go well with your speakers. My most powerful is 5.8W 300BSE.not more than driver itslef: about 93db per watt
Try a DIY SE tube amp with the speakers. You may get a very big surprise.I use clone of Aleph J with all sonido speakers I did. Also not the most powerfull amp))
BTW Triangular Cross Section Labyrinth was introduced by Bailey in 1972 May issue of Electronic&Wireless World 🙂
its off topic here, but I prefer A class solid state.
While it is indeed off topic, I'm very happy for you!
BTW Triangular Cross Section Labyrinth was introduced by Bailey in 1972 May issue of Electronic&Wireless World 🙂
I dont pretend to be the first time inventor or something like that.
But also did not read Bailey papers when was designing. For me a "push" for that was one order from customer. And main issue was - how to make many turns and still keep triangular, in determined outer dimensions.
Does not matter, the main thing - sound is good) Now will make a search for that 1972 issue. You know, previously Ukraine was a part of USSR and we were reading totally differet magazines with you))
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So you had a good catch! A different geometry when/where there are no
parallel walls, I know it's better. The 'stimulus' is not reflected and bounced
inside with regular patterns like in parallel (epipedus!) boxes ...
The Triangular Etc etc design I found was on a book for building boxes that
I bought many years ago, and it's from a German guy. I used to read EWW only in the nineties, just when some 'audio related' articles appeared.
parallel walls, I know it's better. The 'stimulus' is not reflected and bounced
inside with regular patterns like in parallel (epipedus!) boxes ...
The Triangular Etc etc design I found was on a book for building boxes that
I bought many years ago, and it's from a German guy. I used to read EWW only in the nineties, just when some 'audio related' articles appeared.
Wild Burro Betsy "Donkey Kong" Open Baffles
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Very nice indeed. I can't wait for mine to be finished. I am curious about your baffle wood. Something looks awfully familiar there. 😉
nice really, I just wonder why driver is not displaced from center, sides are not golden ratio, and baffle dont touch floor (to decrease acoustic short circuit). Its not critics, its just what I would do with such type of design...
This brush is made from woman's hair.
View attachment 302143
That pretty much says it all, doesn't it?
Very nice indeed. I can't wait for mine to be finished. I am curious about your baffle wood. Something looks awfully familiar there. 😉
Thanks for your nice comments guys. I guess I don't understand your comment concerning the baffle wood Cal?
Ok, now I understand. I don't spend as much time on the forums as I would like to and unfortunately missed your thread about that project.
This is simple, Grade A 3/4" domestic Birch plywood. It is the cheapest "flaw free", 3/4" plywood at Toledo Plywood. $58 for a 4x8 sheet.
This is simple, Grade A 3/4" domestic Birch plywood. It is the cheapest "flaw free", 3/4" plywood at Toledo Plywood. $58 for a 4x8 sheet.
It looks like the Birch veneer on the wood I am using for my current project.
So, without wandering too far OT, and as charcoal may have been wondering, how is the low end, cervelorider? With floor coupling a similar style OB I made had decent low end (mine wasn't square and driver was off-center as Charcoal also asked). Without that, I could imagine it might get a bit thin.(?)
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