Hi guys,
help me fix the baffle rattle in my Missions 701, it is very annoying in low frequencies.
I'm thinking of buying a new pair of speakers cos of that but i don't think i will ever get the Mission's sound with my budget (max £150).
I have read about re-glue ing, but i dont know how to remove the front cover (baffle), which strong glue to buy and in which points to apply it.
Please help otherwise advise for speakers with such sound for 80's Heavy metal and rock,pure analogue sound thru the grooves
help me fix the baffle rattle in my Missions 701, it is very annoying in low frequencies.
I'm thinking of buying a new pair of speakers cos of that but i don't think i will ever get the Mission's sound with my budget (max £150).
I have read about re-glue ing, but i dont know how to remove the front cover (baffle), which strong glue to buy and in which points to apply it.
Please help otherwise advise for speakers with such sound for 80's Heavy metal and rock,pure analogue sound thru the grooves
im loosely familiar with those speakers, but not an expert. If the baffle is screwed down then try removing it and sealing with bathroom silicone, or self adhesive foam draughtproofing tape, and put it back together. It may be a speaker itself buzzing tho if they have been pushed very loud. Perhaps System7 will chime in when he sees this thread, he has an interest in speakers of that era, and likely knows your model far better than me.
It could be the grille frame, terminal plate, or crossover inside the box vibrating. Or it could be a issue with the woofer. Are you sure its the baffle?
It could be the grille frame, terminal plate, or crossover inside the box vibrating. Or it could be a issue with the woofer. Are you sure its the baffle?
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The grilles appear removable on the pics on the net. Do yours look like these?
https://www.google.ca/search?q=miss...Bg&biw=843&bih=643&sei=qXWlUP79E4eniAL22YCIBA
https://www.google.ca/search?q=miss...Bg&biw=843&bih=643&sei=qXWlUP79E4eniAL22YCIBA
Check the driver bolts are tight - they can shake loose with age.
One of my Mission 752s was rattling, which turned out to be the glued joint on the side of the baffle. The glue seems to have vanished in my hot climate, so I opened up the gap and forced in epoxy resin
One of my Mission 752s was rattling, which turned out to be the glued joint on the side of the baffle. The glue seems to have vanished in my hot climate, so I opened up the gap and forced in epoxy resin
Bolts are tight, the problem is the original water glue.
I dont know if i have to remove the front black cover(is that cover called baffle?) or apply glue from the inside (without removing the cover,only the drives)
Any particular glue to suggest?
I dont know if i have to remove the front black cover(is that cover called baffle?) or apply glue from the inside (without removing the cover,only the drives)
Any particular glue to suggest?
I have a pair of Mission 702e's - they are essentially the same, but with extended panels to make them into a faux floorstander - a bit of a con really as the actual enclosures are the same size as yours.
One of the baffles in mine also became loose and made a really irritating buzz whenever significant bass was present in the music. To fix them I had to gain as much access to the insides as possible by removing both the connection plate on the rear of the speaker and the woofer. I really can't remember if I disconnected the the crossover or not - if I did it couldn't have been that difficult or I'd remember!
I used plenty of Araldite around the rear edges of the baffle where it butts against the wood and also (carefully!) filled in as much as possible of the small gap between the baffle and cabinet from the front. It was a bit fiddly, but then some things are...
That was at least seven years ago and they are still going strong, with daily use. However, I have had a subwoofer as part of my set-up for the last five or so years and that has probably reduced some of the stresses on the baffle/cabinet interface.
Still - seven more years for the price of an epoxy resin set can't be all bad 😉
Please let me know how you get on.
One of the baffles in mine also became loose and made a really irritating buzz whenever significant bass was present in the music. To fix them I had to gain as much access to the insides as possible by removing both the connection plate on the rear of the speaker and the woofer. I really can't remember if I disconnected the the crossover or not - if I did it couldn't have been that difficult or I'd remember!
I used plenty of Araldite around the rear edges of the baffle where it butts against the wood and also (carefully!) filled in as much as possible of the small gap between the baffle and cabinet from the front. It was a bit fiddly, but then some things are...
That was at least seven years ago and they are still going strong, with daily use. However, I have had a subwoofer as part of my set-up for the last five or so years and that has probably reduced some of the stresses on the baffle/cabinet interface.
Still - seven more years for the price of an epoxy resin set can't be all bad 😉
Please let me know how you get on.
Araldite sounds a bit over the top if that is epoxy resin...😀
PVA wood adhesive is the stuff for sticking any sort of wooden material.
Evo Stik Wood Adhesive Interior 125ml:
Evo Stik Wood Adhesive Interior 125ml, 0000050403226
PVA wood adhesive is the stuff for sticking any sort of wooden material.
Evo Stik Wood Adhesive Interior 125ml:
Evo Stik Wood Adhesive Interior 125ml, 0000050403226
Except the baffle is plastic and the cabinet is mdf....
I've repaired one of these so experience (probably) trumps guesswork....
If it's a plastic baffle, I'm sure epoxy is just right. 😀
Good to see more Pompey boys here. 😎
Forget it guys,i managed to destroyed them trying to remove the baffles and glue them.
Gonna buy something else.
Do you know if people are interested for the drives and the board?
Gonna buy something else.
Do you know if people are interested for the drives and the board?
Lol - I didn't try to remove the baffle - I just epoxied it where it was! 😱
At least you now have a good excuse for an upgrade 😀
Btw,any advice for the upgrade?
Bookshelves, warm sound,good bass?
For old Heavy metal and rock stuff
Cheers
Bookshelves, warm sound,good bass?
For old Heavy metal and rock stuff
Cheers
'Fraid not - I still have my trusty Missions on the go!
I am considering a diy build though... 😀
repairing Mission 701 baffle rattle
I was given a set of Mission 701's with the baffle rattle. The drivers are perfect; if you "hug" the speaker during low frequency rattles, the rattles stop.
A t-15 Torx wrench removes the 4 screws holding each driver in place. The wire clips on the drivers are colour coded- Blue for the Woofer and Red for the tweeter-and the + and - connections are different sizes. In theory, it's impossible to reconnect them wrong, but I label them all anyway.
A razor knife down 2 edges of the box separates one of the wood side panels nice and clean. Take your time, and repeatedly run the razor knife along the edges, and apply a bit of pressure to pull the box apart. Once the wood panel is off, the black plastic baffle was clearly loose and slid right out.
A small flat head screw driver is perfect for cleaning the old glue out of the wood panel channels.
I used LaPage 100% contact cement (for all plastics and wood), to secure the baffle to the box, then used Elmer's wood glue to replace the wood side panel. Be patient- glue the baffle back in, wait 24 hours, then glue the panel back in place.
Yes, the box edge is no longer perfect, but they sound terrific.
I was given a set of Mission 701's with the baffle rattle. The drivers are perfect; if you "hug" the speaker during low frequency rattles, the rattles stop.
A t-15 Torx wrench removes the 4 screws holding each driver in place. The wire clips on the drivers are colour coded- Blue for the Woofer and Red for the tweeter-and the + and - connections are different sizes. In theory, it's impossible to reconnect them wrong, but I label them all anyway.
A razor knife down 2 edges of the box separates one of the wood side panels nice and clean. Take your time, and repeatedly run the razor knife along the edges, and apply a bit of pressure to pull the box apart. Once the wood panel is off, the black plastic baffle was clearly loose and slid right out.
A small flat head screw driver is perfect for cleaning the old glue out of the wood panel channels.
I used LaPage 100% contact cement (for all plastics and wood), to secure the baffle to the box, then used Elmer's wood glue to replace the wood side panel. Be patient- glue the baffle back in, wait 24 hours, then glue the panel back in place.
Yes, the box edge is no longer perfect, but they sound terrific.
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Just joined for this thread! I'm about to do this same procedure for my Mission 700LE bookshelf speakers, and I wanted to ask about the process you used here. How did you glue the baffle back and wait 24 hours before you glued the panel back on? Did you only glue 3 sides of the plastic to the wood?
Also I'm having trouble sourcing Lapage contact cement locally, you have have any suggestions I can use to re-glue the plastic panel to the MDF box that is available at hardware stores/walmart/etc?
Thanks!
Yes, only 3 sides get glued to the plastic baffle, then wait for the glue to set. The final wood panel then goes on with any good wood/plastic glue.
In Canada, an option is Gorilla Glue- it's awesome and is the go-to glue for Contractors; available in any Hardware/Walmart.
In Canada, an option is Gorilla Glue- it's awesome and is the go-to glue for Contractors; available in any Hardware/Walmart.
The problem with polyurethane glue is it's messy especially when it expands. I'd recommend looking for a brand of adhesive called Goop. It bonds almost anything together. It's similar to silicone but dries a lot harder, with maybe about 10% flexibility.
Aah ok good to know. After that you didn't have any problems with rattling of the plastic panel within the unglued section of MDF? I was planning on trying to glue that fourth edge at the same time as putting the MDF panel back, but will skip it if that's a better approach.
Both gorilla glue and goop are available in my area, so I'll pick one of those up for the plastic, and then some Elmer's wood for the MDF.
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