I think I got the same value for R5 on the one I built yesterday (235K-ish), but all of the voltages are good and the amp runs identical to my other one. I'm building another tonight, I'll see what R5 is on that one and post back.
Guys...can anyone recomend me a good pair of - 8.4V NiMh >= 170 maH "9 volt" Rechargeable Battery to buy on ebay?
I don't know what to choose...theres so many chine things there...:S
I don't know what to choose...theres so many chine things there...:S
NWAVGUY recommends purchasing from here. 4 Rectangular 9V 250mAh NiMH Rechargeable Batteries items in All-Battery Center store on eBay!
NWAVGUY recommends purchasing from here. 4 Rectangular 9V 250mAh NiMH Rechargeable Batteries items in All-Battery Center store on eBay!
they can be 200 or 250 mAH ??
It was designed for the 250mAH batteries. Definitely go for them over the 200 for battery life.
i'm thinking in buy this ones:
2Pcs New Rechargeable 9V Volt Low Discharge Battery 9 V | eBay
whats the difference between this ones (Low Discharge) and the other ones available there?
2Pcs New Rechargeable 9V Volt Low Discharge Battery 9 V | eBay
whats the difference between this ones (Low Discharge) and the other ones available there?
i'm thinking in buy this ones:
2Pcs New Rechargeable 9V Volt Low Discharge Battery 9 V | eBay
whats the difference between this ones (Low Discharge) and the other ones available there?
BTW....can anyone recommend a transformer from ebay?
2Pcs New Rechargeable 9V Volt Low Discharge Battery 9 V | eBay
whats the difference between this ones (Low Discharge) and the other ones available there?
BTW....can anyone recommend a transformer from ebay?
NiMH batteries lose a certain amount of charge when they sit unused for long periods of time. The low-discharge batteries are less susceptible to this.
I would say that if you're actually going to be using the amp, self-discharging won't be an issue and the extra battery life is more desirable in the 250mAH battery. If the amp is mostly going to sit in a drawer unused, then get the low-discharge ones.
I would say that if you're actually going to be using the amp, self-discharging won't be an issue and the extra battery life is more desirable in the 250mAH battery. If the amp is mostly going to sit in a drawer unused, then get the low-discharge ones.
@VJK I just finished another one, and the R5 measured 245K on it also. It looks like a perfectly normal value to me - all 3 of the amps I've built have measured that, and they work flawlessly.
@xaurot
I will be testing a replacement MOSFET for Q2 in about two weeks, and will let you know if it fixes the problem I am seeing.
I replaced the Q2 MOSFET today (thank you for spare parts, @swalter 🙂 ) and it did resolve the problem in my case. In addition to that, my O2 started to pass the low voltage battery shutdown test as well.
Finally listening to ODAC+O2 ... ... wow 😀 😀
@Fender4i, thanks very much. After re-check I noticed that I had swapped U5 & U6 🙁 my bad. After correcting that the R5 still measures 245K but the amp works fine 🙂 . I got stuck on another issue though, when connected to ODAC (without cutting the traces and keeping the functionality of the input jack), there is a screeching noise on the headphone 🙁 . The ODAC alone seems to be working fine. But the O2, now with the ODAC wires connected exibits this funny behaviour ! rechecked for shorts and bridges, but none exists. Note my ODAC has the output jack and J1 and J2 are bridged.
Update : I cut the ODAC wires to check the O2 independently again and it fails. There is a sudden screech in the headphones (the screech increases in volume when I reduce the volume control!!) . Looks like I blew up something 🙁 need to check voltages again. Although everything is cool to touch.
thanks for explanation fender4i....related to the transformer...any sugestions?
This one: Power supply 15V AC
Funny thing happening with Voltage testing. The resistance test checks out fine. The voltage test with just U2 checks out fine as well. Voltages with just U1 on the board, checks out fine as well. With just U3 out, Voltage at D1 shows is 11.7 and at D5 is -12. I did plough through and put the U3 in and rechecked the voltages at D1 and D5 the result is a pass! both show 11.7 !! I further checked pin 4 and 8 on U4 and pin 4 was showing 0.77v and pin 8 showed 11.7 !! I rechecked to confirm. Now the fun part, I was trying to figure out what could have gone wrong, keeping the amp still powered on, could have been 40 seconds or so, I rechecked pins 4 and 8 and this time they show the correct values!... I repeated the experiment and observed the same behaviour.. pin 4 on U4 starts off at +0.77 or so and then in a minute after the amp is on, climbs down to -11.7 !! any idea on next steps ? I am stuck. I don't have an Oscilloscope, but have a good DMM.
Have you been able to try a different U4? I personally would try replacing all of U1-U4 myself, if you can get a hold of them easily.
@VJK: I had a similar issue with V- measured on pin 4 of U4 - see my post 2577. Problem solved after replacing U2 for a new one.
@VJK: I had a similar issue with V- measured on pin 4 of U4 - see my post 2577. Problem solved after replacing U2 for a new one.
You probably mean Q2 (post 2611 above) rather than U2? Just curious which one fixed it. 🙂
You probably mean Q2 (post 2611 above) rather than U2? Just curious which one fixed it. 🙂
Oops ... Q2, of course. 😱
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