Thanks again guys for the posts!
I have taken some shots of the woofers I found in the garage:
PW 1258-US (12" 8 ohm version)
They look like they were in an outdoor cab,
which would explain the missing gaskets,
rust around the mounting holes, and loose surrounds.
Yet they seem to sound fine:
I glued one surround down with Gorilla ('crazy glue').
I think the style of labelling on cone-cap and backplate might reveal
WHEN they were originally made.
There is no "Pyramid" marking, but the part/model number is marked, as well as 8 ohm".
However, it looks like someone deliberately pushed in the cone-caps.
I might be wrong, they may have always been concave,
but one has already been re-glued with a hot-gun,
so I suspect maybe some tampering here.
here is one on my bench about to be glued down.
I haven't yet got any cardboard gaskets,
which I'll be needing because I intend to rear-mount them regardless of cab,
since front-mounting clearly contributed to the surrounds coming off in the first place.
Is it reasonable to just make my own gaskets out of heavy cardboard (maybe two layers?)
Anyway, I may end up passing on using these for a bass-guitar cab,
but instead put them on the bottom of my hi-fi speakers for subwoofers.
They should have no problem as subs at low volumes.
I have taken some shots of the woofers I found in the garage:
PW 1258-US (12" 8 ohm version)
They look like they were in an outdoor cab,
which would explain the missing gaskets,
rust around the mounting holes, and loose surrounds.
Yet they seem to sound fine:
I glued one surround down with Gorilla ('crazy glue').
I think the style of labelling on cone-cap and backplate might reveal
WHEN they were originally made.
There is no "Pyramid" marking, but the part/model number is marked, as well as 8 ohm".
However, it looks like someone deliberately pushed in the cone-caps.
I might be wrong, they may have always been concave,
but one has already been re-glued with a hot-gun,
so I suspect maybe some tampering here.
here is one on my bench about to be glued down.
I haven't yet got any cardboard gaskets,
which I'll be needing because I intend to rear-mount them regardless of cab,
since front-mounting clearly contributed to the surrounds coming off in the first place.
Is it reasonable to just make my own gaskets out of heavy cardboard (maybe two layers?)
Anyway, I may end up passing on using these for a bass-guitar cab,
but instead put them on the bottom of my hi-fi speakers for subwoofers.
They should have no problem as subs at low volumes.
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Now I suddenly got another idea,
because someone threw out a Clydsdale-type roadcase.
This thing is made of only 3/8" ply for walls,
but it could be reinforced.
Here's the idea:
I turn the top half of the cab into a bass-guitar-cab,
with the speakers facing down.
To protect the speakers during transport,
you could have a shorting-jack to freeze the cones.
Now the bottom is like a speaker-cover with wheels.
You wheel it around face-down,
but for playing you unclip it from the wheels/bottom,
and tip it on its side.
The inside dimensions are about 20" x 26" x 14" = 4.2 cu. ft.
Minus some reinforcement, say about 4 cu.ft.
Is that enough for a couple of 12" or a 15"?
It needs a good cleaning out.
It had some drum parts, and alot of deteriorating foam in it.
because someone threw out a Clydsdale-type roadcase.
This thing is made of only 3/8" ply for walls,
but it could be reinforced.
Here's the idea:
I turn the top half of the cab into a bass-guitar-cab,
with the speakers facing down.
To protect the speakers during transport,
you could have a shorting-jack to freeze the cones.
Now the bottom is like a speaker-cover with wheels.
You wheel it around face-down,
but for playing you unclip it from the wheels/bottom,
and tip it on its side.
The inside dimensions are about 20" x 26" x 14" = 4.2 cu. ft.
Minus some reinforcement, say about 4 cu.ft.
Is that enough for a couple of 12" or a 15"?
It needs a good cleaning out.
It had some drum parts, and alot of deteriorating foam in it.
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The Fearful cab looks awesome!
I liked the videos too, which gave a peek inside the cab.
I got some construction clues and ideas there.
Also, I see the 15" cab with midrange
has a HUGE port: Is that like 20" x 3"?
Its a huge vent!
I wonder if two of the MCM 12" would give about the same
clarity and power as the 10mm excursion 15" monster they are using!
one time I bought some speakers - maybe something like the Quatro for a friend who installed them into a large reflex - can't remember if a pair or four but results were dismal - low sensitivity and not enough mids to sound good. In retrospect some high efficiency midrange drivers may have saved things. Karlson couplers work reasonably well for bass guitar.
Hi Freddi.
Thanks for this tip.
Doing some research on Karlsons now,
and it looks like many bass players love them, if they are made right.
I guess I will have to modify a 12" plan to accomodate my Clydsdale cabinet.
If you have any suggestions or want to help, let me know.
I think the Karlson idea looks like it would be a good experiment!
Certainly the problem with a nice clean bass sound is the
usual corresponding lack in the midrange.
Maybe the Karlson front loading is the key here.
I see no problem here.
A clean bass sound requires a decent midrange response. I like my rig to be flat from ~60Hz to a couple of kHz. Even using a fretless P-bass copy (with flatwound strings), the difference in sound with vs without >1kHz is noticable. Above 2kHz is mainly noise, so I tend to attenuate that for bass.
Sounds nice and clean to me - I might do a recording at some point so you can hear what 4x10" does.
Chris
its a pity youre on another continent, i have the original four 10s from the Hartke basscab that i fitted the 4 10 inch 'greenbacks' into. Theyre just sat here. Id say you could have them for postage, but even that would be expensive.
Being Aluminium cones theyre a deal brighter and more presence or bite that most. Im not a bassplayer, so im not sure if that aids a clean bass sound.
Being Aluminium cones theyre a deal brighter and more presence or bite that most. Im not a bassplayer, so im not sure if that aids a clean bass sound.
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Wow that is a generous offer, Mondogenerator.
Right now my cheapest equivalent here is about $200 + tax for 4 10".
Perhaps they could be sent 2 x 2 like in Noah's ark.
I'm in Toronto and a mailing postal code would be: M6C 2B1
If you could get an estimate, I'd like to hear what it might cost.
Perhaps it would be reasonable to at least add $10 / spkr for handling and your trouble too,
then I can see how to sneak them past the other family members...😀
Just an update on the Speaker Shop drivers:
I just found out they were Ashdown Blueline 10" drivers:
HK02015 - 6 (8) ohm , 80 watt (the HK02046 = 16 ohm version).
He had offered these (4 of them) @ about $200 + taxes.
I think they are probably the same as those found in the Ashdown Combo cabs, such as this:
These whole cabs + amp seem to sell for between $400 - $600 on Ebay (plus $270 shipping etc.)
So I am assuming one could pick up a used cab for around $300-$400.
Looks like the price is in the right ballpark.
I still can't find the three speaker specs on this driver,
perhaps someone can help?
I just found out they were Ashdown Blueline 10" drivers:
HK02015 - 6 (8) ohm , 80 watt (the HK02046 = 16 ohm version).
He had offered these (4 of them) @ about $200 + taxes.
I think they are probably the same as those found in the Ashdown Combo cabs, such as this:
These whole cabs + amp seem to sell for between $400 - $600 on Ebay (plus $270 shipping etc.)
So I am assuming one could pick up a used cab for around $300-$400.
Looks like the price is in the right ballpark.
I still can't find the three speaker specs on this driver,
perhaps someone can help?
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haha its not that generous believe me! A pair are in good nick, 1 fair, 1 poor; these came from a heavily gigged cab a local loud rock band used for a couple of years. If i get chance ill look at postage, but at around 10lb each i dont think it will be cheap, UK mail isnt in general.
I couldnt find much info on those drivers either, and i have no experience of those cabs either.
I couldnt find much info on those drivers either, and i have no experience of those cabs either.
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Just for an idea,
Heres a pic or two, of the 'good' driver 😀 One of them is really quite bad, cone buckled a little (this one I had to bend back to shape). The frames on these things are mega weak, I actually corrected the coil rub by bending the chassis...........by hand. An im not superman....
Heres a pic or two, of the 'good' driver 😀 One of them is really quite bad, cone buckled a little (this one I had to bend back to shape). The frames on these things are mega weak, I actually corrected the coil rub by bending the chassis...........by hand. An im not superman....
Heres a pic or two, of the 'good' driver 😀 One of them is really quite bad, cone buckled a little (this one I had to bend back to shape). The frames on these things are mega weak, I actually corrected the coil rub by bending the chassis...........by hand. An im not superman....
Well, it does sound like two are definitely still ok...
and maybe the other two aren't necessarily worth mailing (?)
If the frames are weak enough to bend,
then this can be cured by mounting firmly on 1" plywood,
using dense gaskets.
So that doesn't seem as terrifying as it would if they were mounted 'open-air' on strings.
I imagine if you got new ones maybe you still have the boxes(?)
That might ease the shipping problem somewhat..
I guess if the shipping was down to say $40 for the pair, and I added $10 for handling, it would still be a bargain...
or at least a fair cop.
I'm still interested so far...
An update on those drivers, and their original cab:
The cab is 58cm square, by 35cm deep so : 115 litres / 4.1 ft³ give or take. The port is 10cm dia by 14 cm long (4"x5½" long).
Halving the volume: 55-60 litres / 2 ft³ for just a pair.
Someone help me out here:
Dont I just halve the port area in line with halving the volume, OR halve the length also? in order to maintain tuning?
DW just tried on WinISD, and I have to do both...:S
So if you can accomodate 2 ft³ in your bass section of the cabinet and use a 7cm / 2¾" diameter port, 7 cm / 2¾" long, the tuning should remain the same as original. You can, of course adjust it as required, should you wish to.
Somebody please correct me if what I have said is wrong! 😀
The cab is 58cm square, by 35cm deep so : 115 litres / 4.1 ft³ give or take. The port is 10cm dia by 14 cm long (4"x5½" long).
Halving the volume: 55-60 litres / 2 ft³ for just a pair.
Someone help me out here:
Dont I just halve the port area in line with halving the volume, OR halve the length also? in order to maintain tuning?
DW just tried on WinISD, and I have to do both...:S
So if you can accomodate 2 ft³ in your bass section of the cabinet and use a 7cm / 2¾" diameter port, 7 cm / 2¾" long, the tuning should remain the same as original. You can, of course adjust it as required, should you wish to.
Somebody please correct me if what I have said is wrong! 😀
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Great!
No sweat: The best way to get the port right is to look at
ports for comparable cabinet sizes, and desired roll-off/resonance values.
If I port at all (maybe not!) I would go for a large opening (low wind noise).
Then I would make a movable port" i.e., a sliding divider on one wall,
or a pipe I could slide, adjust and epoxy down.
The ear is the final judge,
and also the warning-system for a serious mistake.
Nice to have the ballpark sizes, but not critical at all.
I'm not surprised the cabinet is undersize (compared to a Marshall):
they won't be as concerned with the lowest possible port resonance,
as they will be with a lighter (and cheaper) more portable cabinet!
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lol that clears that up then. For what its worth, the volume and port length is correct to maintain the original cab tuning. Whether you wish to do this, is your decision 😀I admit a slightly larger diameter port would be nice, ill have a fiddle on winISD and see if the length is practical, tho keeping a 4 inch tube is less likely to be short enough to fit your cab.
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