So, if one were to undertake building an enclosure along the lines of this one, but knew because of placement restrictions that the enclosure would need to be mounted either above or below the planned listening position (possibly as much as 1 1/2'-2' at a twelve foot listening distance), would it be advantageous to cant either the driver, or the ports (or both) to point directly at the desired prime "sweet spot"? Could such modifications result in undesirable side effects in sound reproduction, or is it just a waste of time as the "problem" is not really much of an issue anyway?
A couple of qualifiers...
Let us stipulate these two things for the sake of conversation...
1. The difficulty of construction is not an issue.
2. Angling the entire enclosure is not desirable (aesthetics, read "spouse approval").
A couple of qualifiers...
Let us stipulate these two things for the sake of conversation...
1. The difficulty of construction is not an issue.
2. Angling the entire enclosure is not desirable (aesthetics, read "spouse approval").
If there's an answer to this question, my question would be if I wanted to build μFonken, would it make sense to put spikes underneath the speakers only at the front so they're angled up? 

If there's an answer to this question, my question would be if I wanted to build μFonken, would it make sense to put spikes underneath the speakers only at the front so they're angled up?![]()
Certainly a valid approach
dave
So, if one were to undertake building an enclosure along the lines of this one, but knew because of placement restrictions that the enclosure would need to be mounted either above or below the planned listening position (possibly as much as 1 1/2'-2' at a twelve foot listening distance), would it be advantageous to cant either the driver, or the ports (or both) to point directly at the desired prime "sweet spot"? Could such modifications result in undesirable side effects in sound reproduction, or is it just a waste of time as the "problem" is not really much of an issue anyway?
A couple of qualifiers...
Let us stipulate these two things for the sake of conversation...
1. The difficulty of construction is not an issue.
2. Angling the entire enclosure is not desirable (aesthetics, read "spouse approval").
being somewhat familiar with the design, the volume and internal length of ports is included in the calculations, so there'd be a little bit more than simply canting the entire cabinet, but I can't 😉 see why not
Dave?
Dave?
To maintain tuning the only way i can see it down, would be to vertically angle the baffle top to bottom, with the top shallower than the bottom. The bottom would need to increase in depth by at least 36mm to accomodate the unfolding of the L-shaped vent. The other option would be to move the vent to the back firing out the bottom or top (top better for the aspect of where the vent opening is on the inside.
It would then have a significant angle, minimum 67 degrees -- quite a radical angle. Might still need an offset placed on a desk or upside down on a wall.
dave
now, where there some specific questions not yet answered?
Why angle a port? Doesn't seem like there would be a reason if you ask me. Perhaps angling the driver would have some benefit...
Off topic split off to here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planet-10-hifi/209675-p10-hifi-web-site.html
dave
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planet-10-hifi/209675-p10-hifi-web-site.html
dave
Is there any audible/measurable difference between angling the driver baffle, versus angling the entire cabinet, provided the internal volume stays the same (and no introduced standing waves, etc.)?
Is there any audible/measurable difference between angling the driver baffle, versus angling the entire cabinet, provided the internal volume stays the same (and no introduced standing waves, etc.)?
Only as it affects the diffraction signature of the box.
dave
Only as it affects the diffraction signature of the box.
dave
and on enclosures with array of side mounted slot ports such as the "prime" mini-onken series, an increase in build complexity - it's a lot easier to imagine or draw some of these than to build them
And angling a side may reduce an internal standing wave.
dave
splaying the side walls in (as with the trapezoids) or outwards (a la an old Linn design I found rather striking) isn't all that difficult, neither would a 5dg or so tilt (a la Tysen, and FH3), but much more angle than that definitely starts getting complicated
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