Tx secondaries: 16.60V; +16.72
-1.6; +0.9 is Dc offset on output.
Sorry, if it's counterintuive.
So you got about 21VDC in on the filter capacitors?
Salas, my voltage before rectification is 12.28V, and after the diode bridge the voltage is 13.50V DC
So you got about 21VDC in on the filter capacitors?
I've got 20VDC in measured a minute ago under first capacitors.
Salas, my voltage before rectification is 12.28V, and after the diode bridge the voltage is 13.50V DC
Better go for a 15+15VAC transformer when convinient.
I've got 20VDC in measured a minute ago under first capacitors.
Plenty.
Hi Salas,
Does the made/brand of PS cap make much difference in the hotrodded blue DCB1 design ? Doesn't the shunt reg shielded the buffer from ESR and ripples? I am think how expensive Caps like MUNDORF M-Lytic AG vs reasonable cap like Pana or CDE will make much different here? Any comment?
Thanks
Does the made/brand of PS cap make much difference in the hotrodded blue DCB1 design ? Doesn't the shunt reg shielded the buffer from ESR and ripples? I am think how expensive Caps like MUNDORF M-Lytic AG vs reasonable cap like Pana or CDE will make much different here? Any comment?
Thanks
In my experiments the CCS damped down the discretion between capacitors quality significantly than perceivable in raw supplies. Their impedance can still interfere to an extent though. Enough members maintain they can still subjectively pick several capacitor models out in their DCB1 builds. I would certainly advise a renowned good LowESR industrial capacitor like Panasonic or Nichicon for all the known reasons as a minimum.
Brought home borrowed from the neighbour AV receiver, same sound. This time it should be speaker related then.
Only the receiver no other line stage in the chain was the test? Polarity in speakers? Did some rewiring and could be out of phase between boxes?
Cd to receiver to Speakers. Crappy receiver, but I think it showed the same character of total lack of slam. I don't remember doing any rewiring, except changing a pair of rcas on the buffer, which seems to me, was wired in a same way as before🙂
I've checked phasing with HI Fi news test LP. Sounds allright. It's uber weird that both speakers are showing same impotence.
I've checked phasing with HI Fi news test LP. Sounds allright. It's uber weird that both speakers are showing same impotence.
Are those Spendor S100s if I remember well? If so, very weird, those are 300mm bass driver ones.
Yes, the same S100s. Lots of users have quite the opposite. Room full of bass if positioned incorrectly. Should I try to mess with polarity? Is it safe swaping both speaker leads?
Swapping speaker leads is no threat. Swap in all possible ways for seemingly same or reverse polarity between channels. Always when power is off, and watch not to short any + to -. Do it at the cabinets end.
Swapped in all possible combinations... Neither of them brought out the slam. Speakers are tri wirable, so I've tried using just the bottom end to see if it's alive at all. Let's say it's working, but the sound is very veiled, not rythmic at all on a track it should be. But again I'm not an expert of listening just to bottom end.
Next step opening cabinets? Can't believe this. So one more question. Do all 4 female sockets on buffer have to be joined through grounding via one wire? Or just left and right of input and output separately as I have now.
Next step opening cabinets? Can't believe this. So one more question. Do all 4 female sockets on buffer have to be joined through grounding via one wire? Or just left and right of input and output separately as I have now.
I've tried passive stage. Awful! I've tried my work mac direct to amp. It gives a temporary illusion of firmness but my guess it's coming from midband. Otherwise all the same. I've tried both full output on soundcard and software attenuation, and vice versa.
LET THERE BE LIGHT!
Done! Thank you so much, guys! 🙂
Can I ask you something? But, please, forgive my english...
I will get to stage 2 hotrodding (600mA), but I really can't understand the principle of this, because I'm electronic newbie...
Let me explain: if the jfets will anyway absorb the same amount of mA, what changes giving more current to the psu?
What gives the result of more sound quality in this, giving to the PSU current that fets anyway don't need?
Could you please explain?
Thank you very very much!
Regards!


Done! Thank you so much, guys! 🙂
Can I ask you something? But, please, forgive my english...
I will get to stage 2 hotrodding (600mA), but I really can't understand the principle of this, because I'm electronic newbie...
Let me explain: if the jfets will anyway absorb the same amount of mA, what changes giving more current to the psu?
What gives the result of more sound quality in this, giving to the PSU current that fets anyway don't need?
Could you please explain?
Thank you very very much!
Regards!
The PSU Mosfets work on ranges that they conduct more and the PSU becomes lower impedance, everything works in heavy current mode around it. The filter capacitors, the Tx, the diodes. The signal does not sake them the least at such humongous power difference. DCB1 is a huge symmetric shunt power supply with a DC coupled tiny buffer at its end in essence. Brute force approach. Like those NASCAR things. Add your favorite Rock n' Roll soundtrack.
The PSU Mosfets work on ranges that they conduct more and the PSU becomes lower impedance, everything works in heavy current mode around it. The filter capacitors, the Tx, the diodes. The signal does not sake them the least at such humongous power difference. DCB1 is a huge symmetric shunt power supply with a DC coupled tiny buffer at its end in essence. Brute force approach. Like those NASCAR things. Add your favorite Rock n' Roll soundtrack.
Thank you very much, Salas!🙂
Now I'm even more tempted by Stage 3....
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

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