Yeah you can't ignore the value...But if you were thinking you are getting 4x genuine Wima MKP4 with your board, you're not.
Last edited:
Ah, but would you know the differnce between a MKP4 and a joke Chinese copy?
No you wouldn't. But I guess I just wouldn't be satisfied knowing I had some knockoffs inside. Honestly, I feel like an idiot for actually buying 5x MKP4s. If anything, I should have just bought MKS4...But oh well. There goes $25.
Hey guys,
I've been delaying this build too long. I've had everything soldered for almost a month....but I'm too lazy to actually put everything together.
Anyway,
For the headers where you can hook up potentiometers to, (the three little holes)....
If I'm going to bypass the pots, I just put a wire from the 1st hole to the 3rd hole, right?
I've been delaying this build too long. I've had everything soldered for almost a month....but I'm too lazy to actually put everything together.
Anyway,
For the headers where you can hook up potentiometers to, (the three little holes)....
If I'm going to bypass the pots, I just put a wire from the 1st hole to the 3rd hole, right?
It's been so long iv'e forgotten! If your by-passing the pots, you should have little jumpers already inserted, either 1+2 or 2+3 not 1+3.
It's been so long iv'e forgotten! If your by-passing the pots, you should have little jumpers already inserted, either 1+2 or 2+3 not 1+3.
I didn't buy the YJ board. I bought the Jim's Audio board, without components.
Oh yes. Sorry mate I forgot. If you look at a picture of the YJ board you can see where they go. You just want to join the op-amp pre to the amp.
you would normally expect the Vendor to support the customer and supply all the back up to allow a "kit" to be assembled.I should have looked at the YJ version on eBay.
How many "Ebay sellers" can do this? Are willing to do this? Or, simply don't bother about "Customer Care"?
you would normally expect the Vendor to support the customer and supply all the back up to allow a "kit" to be assembled.
How many "Ebay sellers" can do this? Are willing to do this? Or, simply don't bother about "Customer Care"?
Of course not.
Okay, I think I'm going to use a dual gange pot for the volume control....
What value is good? Anyone have experience? 10K? 50K 100K?
Thanks.
What value is good? Anyone have experience? 10K? 50K 100K?
Thanks.
Hi everyone;
I buy this amplifier and i tested today on a 28V+28V trafo. Everything works great, no "humm", no "hiss", no "bump", nothing, only clear audio. I have to admit it exceeded my expectations.
http://cgi.ebay.es/2-x-68W-Watt-LM3...ctronics_Audio_Amplifiers&hash=item4cf64660b5
The only thing i noticed, is that the 12v regulatores heated too much, at least i think so. Can someone confirm this?
I did not made any change yet, like the one's on the linuxguru post, because i think its not needed, because i like i have said before i did not notice any problems on the audio.
Can also anyone tell me what is the meanning of the red e green led?
Also one more thing, if possible, what is the best pot for this amp, Log or linear, and the impedance? I have some 22K, 47K, 100K, both, log and linear?
Thank you!
Regards
gadelhas
I buy this amplifier and i tested today on a 28V+28V trafo. Everything works great, no "humm", no "hiss", no "bump", nothing, only clear audio. I have to admit it exceeded my expectations.
http://cgi.ebay.es/2-x-68W-Watt-LM3...ctronics_Audio_Amplifiers&hash=item4cf64660b5
The only thing i noticed, is that the 12v regulatores heated too much, at least i think so. Can someone confirm this?
I did not made any change yet, like the one's on the linuxguru post, because i think its not needed, because i like i have said before i did not notice any problems on the audio.
Can also anyone tell me what is the meanning of the red e green led?
Also one more thing, if possible, what is the best pot for this amp, Log or linear, and the impedance? I have some 22K, 47K, 100K, both, log and linear?
Thank you!
Regards
gadelhas
Are those To220 devices between the 6 small electrolytics a pair of +-12Vdc regulators?
If so then add heatsinks. U shaped will fit fine and help keep the caps cooler.
If so then add heatsinks. U shaped will fit fine and help keep the caps cooler.
Are those To220 devices between the 6 small electrolytics a pair of +-12Vdc regulators?
If so then add heatsinks. U shaped will fit fine and help keep the caps cooler.
Hi AndrewT;
Yes. Ok, i will see if i can put the heatsinks.
And about the other questions, can someone explain to me?
Thank you, and regards
I have just made the modifications of lifted ground from linuxguru on my jim's audio board, and WOW, this removed all the annoying hum that had before.
The output offset gone to 77mV on one side and 7mV on the other.
Now I gonna change the NE5532 to OP2134 and see what happens.
Thank you very much, linuxguru!
The output offset gone to 77mV on one side and 7mV on the other.
Now I gonna change the NE5532 to OP2134 and see what happens.
Thank you very much, linuxguru!
Anyone, please, show photo "Yuanjing" PCB with linuxguru mods on the reverse side.
I can't take photos right now, but this image shows what is done on the reverse side of the board.
Attachments
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Chip Amps
- "Yuanjing" Gainclone 3886 - eBay amazing value ?