I took a quick look at the first video. I have lots of problems with it. By eye and with hand tools a machinist should be able to hold tolerances of .005" In the first video he is trying to parallel the blade with the top by measurement. Not only does his reference tooth have pitch which will screw things up, he doesn't seem to know the blade moves with height!
A much easier method is to cut a piece of wood to fit in the table slot and glue a cross piece to it. Cut the cross piece with the front of the blade and the you can use a feeler gauge to check it against the back of the blade (Power off!) With a little practice this will get you within .0005" if you use a ground circular blank instead of a blade. The you can raise and lower the blade to check for other movement.
On an older table saw that movement often means the main bearings are worn.
The history of machine tool accuracy is quite interesting. A straight edge, a level and a plumb bob are all the tools you should need!
Rulers are a reference and not a standard!
Side tracking abit - but thought those who read this thread may be interested
Wilson Audio factory visit
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Wilson Audio factory visit
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Wilson Audio??????????????? - ?????
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Thanks for the links Arthur,
Gimme that workshop 🙂
Shame I can't read the article but the pictures tell the story all by themselves almost.
Gimme that workshop 🙂
Shame I can't read the article but the pictures tell the story all by themselves almost.
I've been playing around some more with the model, making small tweaks here and there. This is the latest and very nearly final model.
I plan to test the Scanspeak Illuminator 15W against the Audiotechnology c-quenze 15H after hearing the midrange wasn't upto scratch with that particular design. If so I'll swap back to the c-quenze.
I've also been thinking about the rebates within the speaker and another possible alternative to using those would be biscuits. Not quite as elegant but definitely quicker and easier. The Festool Domino system gives an interesting twist on biscuit joints and looks excellent overall. Any thoughts on this as an alternative?
DOMINO joining system product page
YouTube - Festool Domino Jointer Demonstration
I plan to test the Scanspeak Illuminator 15W against the Audiotechnology c-quenze 15H after hearing the midrange wasn't upto scratch with that particular design. If so I'll swap back to the c-quenze.
I've also been thinking about the rebates within the speaker and another possible alternative to using those would be biscuits. Not quite as elegant but definitely quicker and easier. The Festool Domino system gives an interesting twist on biscuit joints and looks excellent overall. Any thoughts on this as an alternative?
DOMINO joining system product page
YouTube - Festool Domino Jointer Demonstration
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I have a porter cable bisuit jointer that I have been using for several years now. I started out doing rebates and switched to biscuits. I will never go back. The rebates are so much more work and I don't think there is enough of an advantage to them to justify the work. Using good glue and a solid butt joint aligned with biscuits, the glue joint is generally stronger than the wood it is holding together.
As to the Domino cutter. Slick... definately a better joint than standard biscuits. The question I asked was is it worth the extra cost. My answer in the end was "No". With careful setup and attention to what you are doing with the biscuit jointer, there is no need for the dominos. Honestly though, if I had money to burn I would probably have a Domino cutter and live happily ever after. Since I don't have money to burn, I will use biscuits and simply put in a few extra to make myself feel better.
By the way your renderings look fantastic as usual.
As to the Domino cutter. Slick... definately a better joint than standard biscuits. The question I asked was is it worth the extra cost. My answer in the end was "No". With careful setup and attention to what you are doing with the biscuit jointer, there is no need for the dominos. Honestly though, if I had money to burn I would probably have a Domino cutter and live happily ever after. Since I don't have money to burn, I will use biscuits and simply put in a few extra to make myself feel better.
By the way your renderings look fantastic as usual.
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Hey Bill,
Yes the corian turned out to be too expensive in the end. Lovely material though.
I liked the wood that came as the crate for a mixing console, a variety of pine I had not seen. So I built a table out of it. I used a breadboard edge attaching it with just biscuits, as this was a "Country" piece of furniture.
Well we had a bit of rain come done one week and before you could do much, the water was just a bit less than 2 meters above the floor.
After a week the table looked more like a potato chip than any classical table should. A few weeks later it dried out enough to have the one badly warped leg repaired. However there was not so much as a little gap or crack around the biscuits or breadboard edge!
So by experience you don't want to try yourself, biscuits work great!
Well we had a bit of rain come done one week and before you could do much, the water was just a bit less than 2 meters above the floor.
After a week the table looked more like a potato chip than any classical table should. A few weeks later it dried out enough to have the one badly warped leg repaired. However there was not so much as a little gap or crack around the biscuits or breadboard edge!
So by experience you don't want to try yourself, biscuits work great!
Hmm. 5 joiners or 1. 😀
The greater number of joiners you have "permanently" setup - the faster and more accurate the production process. 😉
Looks excellent Shin.
The only aspect of the design I have mixed feelings about is that curved base. The heavily curved edge seems out of place.
How about a base made from corian?
The only aspect of the design I have mixed feelings about is that curved base. The heavily curved edge seems out of place.
How about a base made from corian?
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I wanted to do a base with a nice large bevel on there but the only bits I've found in a 1"1/2 are 45deg chamfering bits. I want a 25deg or so angle for the look I'm after, the 45deg is too severe looking.
The other problem is the router - you need a good machine to run large bits effectively. My current machine has a decent amount of power (1600w) for most jobs but the opening in the base where the bit passes through is nearly always too small for large bits on most routers including mine. Manufacturers generally think your going to be using a shaper for this sort of thing and just pop a 2" hole in the base on these hand helds. You can get around it by messing around making an extension for the base with a larger hole but then you loose a good amount of plunge depth taken up by the increased thickness of the 'new' base.
After looking around there's only one router out there that will take a 3" diameter bit without any fuss and that's Festool's OF 2200. I needed a new router anyway so I've gone and bought one so I can finally avoid the headaches of using large bits. Should plough through driver holes in a timely fashion too. Soon as it arrives I'll pop a picture or two up.
Its not that simple. I want the 25deg angle on the thickness of the material, that could get ugly real fast on a table saw and table saws don't do curved profiles, straight lines are their thing.
Only option I've found so far are made to order bits.
I have the big bosch router. I bought a second base for it so I have one to use with big bits and one with small bits. I simply mounted my large roundover bit in the chuck and plunged it slowly through the base. Voila!! larger base opening. By the way the replacement base was some $10, so it was not a big issue at all.
A little late to the game, but welcome back Shin. You're first post sounds an awful lot like what happened to me a couple years ago (around the same time as you), finding a lady friend and falling away from the DIY scene for a while. We're still very happily together and I'm finally getting back into the swing of things as far as DIY is concerned. Lucky for me, she is interested in all the stereo gear and speakers so she doesn't mind the fact that I've crammed FOUR individual stereo systems into our small apartment, two 2-ch systems and two full-fledged home theater systems, one in the living room and one in the bedroom.
Anyway, as I said, welcome back to the forum. And as for your renderings and physical work, I only have one word that comes to mind...
WOW!!!!
Anyway, as I said, welcome back to the forum. And as for your renderings and physical work, I only have one word that comes to mind...
WOW!!!!
What material are they using in these pictures? Polyurethane panels like Geddes?
That is the first time I have heard a good reason to get a second base! They love to sell it that way because the customer thinks they are getting something useful, but after a few swaps it becomes clear the money is better spent on a second router.
I have one permanently set up for dovetailing, one for template work, one edge trimmer, one in a table and then one for other stuff. The final two are the only ones where I change the bit. I have a second base plastic piece with the larger hole! (Bought as a replacement part at the local Black and Decker service center also fits Porter Cable.)
If you have ever set up a dovetail system you know why keeping a router setup saves lots of time.
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