Though I said fire I think I know what happened to cause it. One of the multimeter clips from R7 (B-) touched R6 and seems to have shorted the circuit. I was dumb enough to wiggle and play with volume pot while the circuit is live. Anyway, result is I saw some fire around the C6 C7 area and when I checked I saw R32 burning bright and was black and charred when I checked it without power.
Question is how will I know which other parts (c6 C7 need replaced). How will I know if other parts are fried?
Another question though unrelated is, before frying it, I measured output grid voltages and set to -84V with only rectifier and with 5842 in the grid voltage went to 120's even while playing music? is this normal?
Qestion 2, Plate voltage at the postive terminal of coupling cap(C9, C11) was weird? Left plate voltage was 42-43 V nomatter however I changed the cathode pot (R9)? Reading was 0V on Right channel plate voltage. What is wrong? Why would this happen? Can anyone help me fix this.
Output for right chanel is very faint, to the level of no sound with left speaker dominating. With volume pot sound levels reduced by atleast 3 times. even with volume pot turned all the way to full. Why is this?
Question is how will I know which other parts (c6 C7 need replaced). How will I know if other parts are fried?
Another question though unrelated is, before frying it, I measured output grid voltages and set to -84V with only rectifier and with 5842 in the grid voltage went to 120's even while playing music? is this normal?
Qestion 2, Plate voltage at the postive terminal of coupling cap(C9, C11) was weird? Left plate voltage was 42-43 V nomatter however I changed the cathode pot (R9)? Reading was 0V on Right channel plate voltage. What is wrong? Why would this happen? Can anyone help me fix this.
Output for right chanel is very faint, to the level of no sound with left speaker dominating. With volume pot sound levels reduced by atleast 3 times. even with volume pot turned all the way to full. Why is this?
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Fire, do you mean spark?result is I saw some fire around the C6 C7 area
That resistor will have to be replaced.and when I checked I saw R32 burning bright and was black and charred when I checked it without power.
Does the top of capacitor look like bulging out? If not, it may be ok for now.how will I know which other parts (c6 C7 need replaced). How will I know if other parts are fried?
Follow the "check out" steps on Tubelab website step by step and if anything does not match what Tubelab shows, something is wrong. Try the steps again and write down the voltages per each step and let us know.Another question though unrelated is, before frying it, I measured output grid voltages and set to -84V with only rectifier and with 5842 in the grid voltage went to 120's even while playing music? is this normal?
Qestion 2, Plate voltage at the postive terminal of coupling cap(C9, C11) was weird? Left plate voltage was 42-43 V nomatter however I changed the cathode pot (R9)? Reading was 0V on Right channel plate voltage. What is wrong? Why would this happen? Can anyone help me fix this.
Output for right chanel is very faint, to the level of no sound with left speaker dominating. With volume pot sound levels reduced by atleast 3 times. even with volume pot turned all the way to full. Why is this?
Yes, I meant sparks coming around the area of C6 C7. I checked the caps, they look ok no bulging or signs of burning.
I am in the process of procuring some more 4.7K ohm resistors, I don't have any spare ones.
I am building this for using 300b tubes.
I followed tubelab checkout steps, and here are the voltages before I shorted the board.
B+ with load 382V
Filament voltage at pin 2 on output tube socket is 5.02V both sockets. (B+ was negative 0.07 V at thsi point)
Output tube grid voltage was adjusted at R33 and R34 and set at -82V and -83V R and L (This was with rectifier tube in place).
5842 plate voltage measured at + end (lead closest to 5842) of C9 and C11. At C11 it measured 45V turning cathode pot (R20) all the way. Voltage was 0 at C9 no matter which ever way I turned the cathode pot(R9).
With 300b in place and playing music, I adjusted plate supply of output tubes at R 18 and R29 to 63mA and 64mA.
At this point L speaker has good output, R speaker it seems had some output ( I came to know of it when L speaker went dead after I shorted the board) but sound was very feeble.
Thats when I shorted the board and fried R32. I will reset the board and report once I chekout again.
Everharmonics thanks for the reply.
I am in the process of procuring some more 4.7K ohm resistors, I don't have any spare ones.
I am building this for using 300b tubes.
I followed tubelab checkout steps, and here are the voltages before I shorted the board.
B+ with load 382V
Filament voltage at pin 2 on output tube socket is 5.02V both sockets. (B+ was negative 0.07 V at thsi point)
Output tube grid voltage was adjusted at R33 and R34 and set at -82V and -83V R and L (This was with rectifier tube in place).
5842 plate voltage measured at + end (lead closest to 5842) of C9 and C11. At C11 it measured 45V turning cathode pot (R20) all the way. Voltage was 0 at C9 no matter which ever way I turned the cathode pot(R9).
With 300b in place and playing music, I adjusted plate supply of output tubes at R 18 and R29 to 63mA and 64mA.
At this point L speaker has good output, R speaker it seems had some output ( I came to know of it when L speaker went dead after I shorted the board) but sound was very feeble.
Thats when I shorted the board and fried R32. I will reset the board and report once I chekout again.
Everharmonics thanks for the reply.
Something is wrong right there. Until you can fix that, this amp shouldn't be used. As to what is causing it, perhaps one of the gurus here can answer.Voltage was 0 at C9 no matter which ever way I turned the cathode pot(R9).
See if you can fill in the step list below.I will reset the board and report once I chekout again.
1) w/ no tubes in,
B+ =
B- =
Output tube filament supply left = , right =
2) w/ rectifier tube in,
B+ =
B- =
Output tube grid to ground left = , right =
3) w/ rectifier tube and input tubes in,
B+ =
B- =
Input tube plate to ground left = , right =
4) w/ all tubes in and set the output tube bias,
B+ =
B- =
Input tube plate to ground left = , right =
1) w/ no tubes in,
B+ = 0.07
B- = 292
Output tube filament supply
left = 4.99,
right = 4.99
2) w/ rectifier tube in,
B+ = 462
B- = 248
Output tube grid to ground (R33, R34)
left = 224,
right = -84.3
These measurements are after replacing R32, R25 which appeared burned. Can someone suggest a way of checking whats wrong with the left channel to get output grid voltage so high and positive. I will post board pictures later in morning when I get home from work.
Thank you.
B+ = 0.07
B- = 292
Output tube filament supply
left = 4.99,
right = 4.99
2) w/ rectifier tube in,
B+ = 462
B- = 248
Output tube grid to ground (R33, R34)
left = 224,
right = -84.3
These measurements are after replacing R32, R25 which appeared burned. Can someone suggest a way of checking whats wrong with the left channel to get output grid voltage so high and positive. I will post board pictures later in morning when I get home from work.
Thank you.
It may not be a big deal but B+ should be negative voltage at this step. How long did you have it on when measuring?1) w/ no tubes in,
B+ = 0.07
B- = 292
B+ and B- are about right. Output tube grid to ground should be both around -80v. I'll look at the schematic and see what could possibly cause this, unless one of the gurus respond before I do.2) w/ rectifier tube in,
B+ = 462
B- = 248
Output tube grid to ground (R33, R34)
left = 224,
right = -84.3
Everharmonics, Thank you for your support. I figured as much looking at those numbers. I was checking resistors on left channel today comparing with right channel. They appear to be in good standing except R33 which is measuring 1.55Mohms. I am not an electronics expert only a hobbyist and I am having trouble checking out what is going wrong. I appreciate all the help. Hopefully I can enjoy music from this experiment.
R33 and 34 both should be 100 Ohm 1/4 W resistor.R33 which is measuring 1.55Mohms.
Changed R33 with a new 100 ohm 1/4w resistor. Still grid voltage on left is 272V. Only other thing that seemed to drive the voltage when I consulted schematic appears to be th Mosfet 2sk3563 (used Vishay IRF830). Could a blown Mosfet cause raise in voltage? From my understanding Mosfet in this circuit is used as cathode follower to reduce voltage presented to output tube to negative so that it won't go into Class B when driven to clipping.
Everhormonics, do you think changing Mosfet is useful. I tried to test it with multimeter in diode testing mode. The minute I put probes to source and grid multimeter is making noise. can you tell me whats going on?
Everhormonics, do you think changing Mosfet is useful. I tried to test it with multimeter in diode testing mode. The minute I put probes to source and grid multimeter is making noise. can you tell me whats going on?
I fried mosfet (Q1 & Q2) before while dealing with a different problem. They do get damaged easily and it made the output tube grid voltage positive (it's supposed to be negative during that check out process). This reply by Tubelab explains it. Replace it with a new one and see what happens.Could a blown Mosfet cause raise in voltage?
Thanks Everharmonics. I was reading the thread you alluded to, seems like u went through the same process. I think I know the problem now. By the way L 5842 burning brighter than the R also happened to me. This was immediately after the burnout. So, I am looking at changing both Q2 and U2. I will replace U2 with IXCP10M45S. But could you suggest a better replacement for 2SK2700, as I am using IRF830APBF vishay MOSFET rated at 500V.
Would 2SK3564 rated at 900v be suitable, CrSS is 13ohms though compared to 7 on 2Sk3563.
Another option is STP3NK90ZFP.
Thanks.
Would 2SK3564 rated at 900v be suitable, CrSS is 13ohms though compared to 7 on 2Sk3563.
Another option is STP3NK90ZFP.
Thanks.
I haven't been updated on the alternate mosfet options so I can't say but there was a discussion on it here. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubelab/181369-mosfets-tubelab-se.html
Changed Mosfet Q2 and current regulators U2 and U3. Its playing again. But problems still exist. R channel is still very very low, like I have to stick my ear right next to speaker to notice any sound coming out or it.
Volume pot, I am using 100K linear pot, and the sound is very very low. Speaker sensitivity is 96db, 8ohm. I am using GXSE 15-4-5k OPT to use with my other speakers but connected to 8Ohm for testing. Would this affect the amp.
With rectifier tube,
B+ = 464
B-=-265
Output grid voltage
L = -120
R = -84
With 5842
B+ = 454
B- = -246
Plate voltage
L = 130-140V
R = not able to change with cathode pot.
With 300B in
current across plate supply
L = -62.8mA
R = -69mA
Volume pot, I am using 100K linear pot, and the sound is very very low. Speaker sensitivity is 96db, 8ohm. I am using GXSE 15-4-5k OPT to use with my other speakers but connected to 8Ohm for testing. Would this affect the amp.
With rectifier tube,
B+ = 464
B-=-265
Output grid voltage
L = -120
R = -84
With 5842
B+ = 454
B- = -246
Plate voltage
L = 130-140V
R = not able to change with cathode pot.
With 300B in
current across plate supply
L = -62.8mA
R = -69mA
Check to see if solders are all good. Check the wiring of output transformers.Changed Mosfet Q2 and current regulators U2 and U3. Its playing again. But problems still exist. R channel is still very very low, like I have to stick my ear right next to speaker to notice any sound coming out or it.
This thread may be of help. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubelab/178584-wiring-tubelab-se-without-volume-pot.html#post2399410Plate voltage
L = 130-140V
R = not able to change with cathode pot.
That will come down when output tubes are in.Isn't your B+ at 454 V little to high?
Even with output tubes B+ is hanging around 440VThat will come down when output tubes are in.
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