You can gogle up the Kerafoll 86/83 I am using nice 1 page data sheet.
Or wait till I learn how to cut and paste from the PDF
any way 8 W/mK
and litle graph shows how much the termal resistance drop with the increase in pressure
K/W =0.2 at 29 PSI or 0.1 at 87 PSI
Which is way I don't use a single screw on the mosfets.
Or wait till I learn how to cut and paste from the PDF
any way 8 W/mK
and litle graph shows how much the termal resistance drop with the increase in pressure
K/W =0.2 at 29 PSI or 0.1 at 87 PSI
Which is way I don't use a single screw on the mosfets.
according to the keratherm people, and some others posted here, the Kerafol is just as good if not better than mica and goop!
That is really good to know! I will use Kerafol in the next build. 🙂
I tink we are entering the warm goo phase, that being said I am sadly nowhere near listining to my F5 as I have much soldering to do....E
My 1st F5 PSU own handcrafted build
Hi Folks,
please see attached pictures of my PSU config. What do you think?
looks it reasonable, will it work? I'm a liitle bit afraid of turn it on the
first time.
Any hints and thought are welcome!
Cheers,
Mallard
Hi Folks,
please see attached pictures of my PSU config. What do you think?
looks it reasonable, will it work? I'm a liitle bit afraid of turn it on the
first time.
Any hints and thought are welcome!
Cheers,
Mallard
Like it A LOT (got a cooper fetish at the moment and it does not go to well with my Peter Pan sindrom)
I am looking for same type 10mU capacitors for next build
I am looking for same type 10mU capacitors for next build
As long as you have your rectifier and cap polarities correct, you should be OK. Do use the variac or series-light-bulb for testing.....
I'd be a little careful, about your resistor configuration. You appear to have have copper lugs and have resistors between them. Copper (as you know by now) can be pretty flexible, if one of those lugs (or any of the leads from the resistors) flex and contact your main copper plate (at ground potential), there will be some interesting fireworks....(and that would release Acrid, the ancient Greek god of pungent smoke!). Best to go with shorter lugs (or terminals) that could not touch the copper plate. I'd also run some spaghetti over the resistor leads.... (as in thin plastic tubing--not as in penne pasta or cannolli....)
I'd be a little careful, about your resistor configuration. You appear to have have copper lugs and have resistors between them. Copper (as you know by now) can be pretty flexible, if one of those lugs (or any of the leads from the resistors) flex and contact your main copper plate (at ground potential), there will be some interesting fireworks....(and that would release Acrid, the ancient Greek god of pungent smoke!). Best to go with shorter lugs (or terminals) that could not touch the copper plate. I'd also run some spaghetti over the resistor leads.... (as in thin plastic tubing--not as in penne pasta or cannolli....)
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I think we are entering the warm goo phase......
So very TEMPTING.....but I'm NOT going to touch that line, with a twenty-foot (6.096012192 meter) pole.....!!!
Hi Folks,
please see attached pictures of my PSU config. What do you think?
looks it reasonable, will it work? I'm a liitle bit afraid of turn it on the
first time.
Any hints and thought are welcome!
Cheers,
Mallard
Hi Mallard,
I'm thinking of using those caps for my next build. Why CCC instead of CRCC?
Smaller value bypass caps might be of some value , charge them babies up and you could power a hybrid electric car for a day....E
Oh, I see that your PS is CCCRCCC. Your cap layout disoriented me for a moment. I thought those resistors were bleeders, but they are not.
I'm thinking of using those caps for my next build. Why CCC instead of CRCC?
It is CRC. The resistors are on tabs in the back of the photo.
EDIT - And as I hit the 'post' button, I see your comment above... We must have been typing at the same time!
looks good
but I would be worried about the resistor connection being that close to ground
looks a bit dangerous
and I would shorten resistor legs
use more copper plate instead
drill small holes for the resistor legs
better connection than just solder
but I would be worried about the resistor connection being that close to ground
looks a bit dangerous
and I would shorten resistor legs
use more copper plate instead
drill small holes for the resistor legs
better connection than just solder
Another night at my day job so
Pseudo haiku
Oh acrid smoke
and the conquered tower
what is next Papa?
Still working on the second channel
And listening in mono
4 hour runs and Dc offset is riducusly low (2mV) and temperature at the spreaders at 48 C
I am really tempted to connect the 24 V taps (using 20 V taps at present)
I gave the clamps screws one more quarter turn today and I am wondering how well I could further improve on the matching of the mosfets pairs with this method as VGS is temperature dependent.
Ideas for loads of little tweaks keep popping up while I work o the second channel at least the front panel is holy now (took 2 days).
1 more day on polishing the other 2 heath spreaders
The amplifier seems to be sounding much better today maybe just hart playing ticks on the brain still sweet extended hi and the lower range drums like seems to have lost a bit of the pum pum and be more on the tum tum (much faster attack) side.
What I would really like is to have a place in the UK where to listen and compare the sound of those amplifiers whit other members.
Food for toughs if you are as half as wakoo as your truly.
Really expensive ideas out of my range.
What if I had same really flat surfaces (Strange things seems to happens but no alphabet after my name to explain) apparently there are same in Greenwich science museum or such and they have to be very careful not to put them together otherwise they will stick to each other.
This may be possible for the coupling of the heath spreader and the heat sinks I am using same 10.5 k/w graphite based goop
And what about thin diamond wafers instead of mica or kerafol on the mosfets.
Quote from Wikipedia>Electrical conductivityOther specialized applications also exist or are being developed, including use as semiconductors: some blue diamonds are natural semiconductors, in contrast to most diamonds, which are excellent electrical insulators.[21] The conductivity and blue color originate from boron impurity. Boron substitutes for carbon atoms in the diamond lattice, donating a hole into the valence band.[21]
Quote from Wikipedia>
Drawing method In 2004, the Manchester group obtained graphene by mechanical exfoliation of graphite. They used cohesive tape to repeatedly split graphite crystals into increasingly thinner pieces. The tape with attached optically transparent flakes was dissolved in acetone, and, after a few further steps, the flakes including monolayers were sedimented on a silicon wafer. Individual atomic planes were then hunted in an optical microscope. A year later, the researchers simplified the technique and started using dry deposition, avoiding the stage when graphene floated in a liquid. Relatively large crystallites (first, only a few micrometres in size but, eventually, larger than 1 mm and visible by a naked eye) were obtained by the technique. It is often referred to as a scotch tape or drawing method.
Pity graphene is electricaly conductive so not good there (graphene mono molecular layer grapite waffer going rate was 100,000 square cm maybe cheaper now)
But maybe if you read troug they mention a way to split mica to very thin film
So maybe Wako reading got same value.
Pseudo haiku
Oh acrid smoke
and the conquered tower
what is next Papa?
Still working on the second channel
And listening in mono
4 hour runs and Dc offset is riducusly low (2mV) and temperature at the spreaders at 48 C
I am really tempted to connect the 24 V taps (using 20 V taps at present)
I gave the clamps screws one more quarter turn today and I am wondering how well I could further improve on the matching of the mosfets pairs with this method as VGS is temperature dependent.
Ideas for loads of little tweaks keep popping up while I work o the second channel at least the front panel is holy now (took 2 days).
1 more day on polishing the other 2 heath spreaders
The amplifier seems to be sounding much better today maybe just hart playing ticks on the brain still sweet extended hi and the lower range drums like seems to have lost a bit of the pum pum and be more on the tum tum (much faster attack) side.
What I would really like is to have a place in the UK where to listen and compare the sound of those amplifiers whit other members.
Food for toughs if you are as half as wakoo as your truly.
Really expensive ideas out of my range.
What if I had same really flat surfaces (Strange things seems to happens but no alphabet after my name to explain) apparently there are same in Greenwich science museum or such and they have to be very careful not to put them together otherwise they will stick to each other.
This may be possible for the coupling of the heath spreader and the heat sinks I am using same 10.5 k/w graphite based goop
And what about thin diamond wafers instead of mica or kerafol on the mosfets.
Quote from Wikipedia>Electrical conductivityOther specialized applications also exist or are being developed, including use as semiconductors: some blue diamonds are natural semiconductors, in contrast to most diamonds, which are excellent electrical insulators.[21] The conductivity and blue color originate from boron impurity. Boron substitutes for carbon atoms in the diamond lattice, donating a hole into the valence band.[21]
Quote from Wikipedia>
Drawing method In 2004, the Manchester group obtained graphene by mechanical exfoliation of graphite. They used cohesive tape to repeatedly split graphite crystals into increasingly thinner pieces. The tape with attached optically transparent flakes was dissolved in acetone, and, after a few further steps, the flakes including monolayers were sedimented on a silicon wafer. Individual atomic planes were then hunted in an optical microscope. A year later, the researchers simplified the technique and started using dry deposition, avoiding the stage when graphene floated in a liquid. Relatively large crystallites (first, only a few micrometres in size but, eventually, larger than 1 mm and visible by a naked eye) were obtained by the technique. It is often referred to as a scotch tape or drawing method.
Pity graphene is electricaly conductive so not good there (graphene mono molecular layer grapite waffer going rate was 100,000 square cm maybe cheaper now)
But maybe if you read troug they mention a way to split mica to very thin film
So maybe Wako reading got same value.
What I would really like, is to have a place in the UK where to listen with other members.
Food for Wakoos, if you are half as tough as yours truly.
Sory Jacoo
expand don't realy catch your drift.
UK or EU BAF be nice?
And question did you see a gondola in Rotterdam?
expand don't realy catch your drift.
UK or EU BAF be nice?
And question did you see a gondola in Rotterdam?
Any hints and thought are welcome!
Can't see from the photos but do you have insulating washers on the mounting studs?
As long as you have your rectifier and cap polarities correct, you should be OK. Do use the variac or series-light-bulb for testing.....
I'd be a little careful, about your resistor configuration. You appear to have have copper lugs and have resistors between them. Copper (as you know by now) can be pretty flexible, if one of those lugs (or any of the leads from the resistors) flex and contact your main copper plate (at ground potential), there will be some interesting fireworks....(and that would release Acrid, the ancient Greek god of pungent smoke!). Best to go with shorter lugs (or terminals) that could not touch the copper plate. I'd also run some spaghetti over the resistor leads.... (as in thin plastic tubing--not as in penne pasta or cannolli....)
I will use poor mans protection solution -> Lightbulb in series of the 230V line!
Ok good hint about the resistor lugs. I'll see how to make it more safety.
Thanks,
Mallard
Smaller value bypass caps might be of some value , charge them babies up and you could power a hybrid electric car for a day....E
Yes, I'm will use some small MKL's 3,3mF! I made VERY good expereince with these types of supporters.
Cheers,
Mallard
Can't see from the photos but do you have insulating washers on the mounting studs?
Which studs do you mean? I used insulating washers for the rectifier connection to the heatsink and of course for the FETs of the Amp circuit.
Cheers,
Mallard
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