Yes, it's a good idea. I have problems with my 963. I bought a NAD C542 finally because nobody was able to repair the 963. It works but suddenly it stops without a certain reason and can not be controlled untill I unplug it from the wall and leave it like that for a while. Does anybody have any suggestions what could be the problem? The mother-board or the PSU?
Regards
Asen
Regards
Asen
It "Fixed" itself LOL "Be Healed"
My 963 seems to have healed itself. It would not come out of standby. I checked to see the disc drive spin up, it did. I checked all the power supply voltages, they were all there and a little high across the board. Normal for not being loaded, cable was disconnected. When the cable was connected only standby 12 volts and 5volts on pin 12 (standby signal) were present. I unpluged the mains several more times and still got no response to the power button. After a couple more times, magic, it worked. I checked power supply voltages and all were in spec. Pin 12 no longer has 5 volts when out of standby.
For anyone having the same problem I would suggest removing pin 12 from the power supply connector, and plug it back in to test. I think it will probably fire right up. This is what I am going to do when this problem comes back.
I believe that for some reason the power button is not toggling the 5 volt standby signal.
Don
My 963 seems to have healed itself. It would not come out of standby. I checked to see the disc drive spin up, it did. I checked all the power supply voltages, they were all there and a little high across the board. Normal for not being loaded, cable was disconnected. When the cable was connected only standby 12 volts and 5volts on pin 12 (standby signal) were present. I unpluged the mains several more times and still got no response to the power button. After a couple more times, magic, it worked. I checked power supply voltages and all were in spec. Pin 12 no longer has 5 volts when out of standby.
For anyone having the same problem I would suggest removing pin 12 from the power supply connector, and plug it back in to test. I think it will probably fire right up. This is what I am going to do when this problem comes back.
I believe that for some reason the power button is not toggling the 5 volt standby signal.
Don
Hi George,
I think that the 240v version has a wide input range power supply whilst the US model has a fixed 110v version.
/001 and /691 use 3122 427 23261
/171 uses 3122 427 23471 USA version
I don't know what the differences are between the two SMPS, perhaps just the number of windings on the transformer or perhaps they've saved money on the US version by down rating the components ?
Anyway I think the answer to your question is no.
Cheers,
Jon
I think that the 240v version has a wide input range power supply whilst the US model has a fixed 110v version.
/001 and /691 use 3122 427 23261
/171 uses 3122 427 23471 USA version
I don't know what the differences are between the two SMPS, perhaps just the number of windings on the transformer or perhaps they've saved money on the US version by down rating the components ?
Anyway I think the answer to your question is no.
Cheers,
Jon
DVD 963 fixed
My DVD 963 is working now
The fault I found is on the SD-4 module. The connector labeled 1300 with flex 11p flat cable had bad solder joints. I only resoldered the 11 smt pins et voilà.
The cable leads to motor driver. The dvd didn't go out from stand by, and sometimes had even no signs of life, because had an error at motor check.
On SD-4 service manual you can find the connector at page 35.
I hope this will help somebody
My DVD 963 is working now
The fault I found is on the SD-4 module. The connector labeled 1300 with flex 11p flat cable had bad solder joints. I only resoldered the 11 smt pins et voilà.
The cable leads to motor driver. The dvd didn't go out from stand by, and sometimes had even no signs of life, because had an error at motor check.
On SD-4 service manual you can find the connector at page 35.
I hope this will help somebody
modded 963sa for sale to someone with electronic know-how
Hi everyone,
I have decided to sell my heavily modded Philips 963sa SACD/CD player and have just posted it on Audiogon. The player cost me $400 new and the mod’s added another $400. Essentially all signal caps have been replaced with Blackgates and the whole SMPS was reworked by Reference Audio Mods (RAM), who also added two high quality RCA outputs for stereo output, wiring with pure cotton-insulated silver wire, and glued ¾” thick solid oak to the inside of the lid to provide mechanical damping. Stock feet have been replaced with Herbie’s Gabon Ebony domes, and the progressive video scan board has been removed to free holes which were used for the high quality RCA’s for stereo outputs. With all these mod’s, the player had a wonderful sound. Unfortunately, a few months ago it shut off and would not turn back on. I sent it back to RAM who did extensive testing. Kyle at RAM tells me it appears the SMPS PCB has gone bad, which he claims is a common problem with the Philips units. Unfortunately, I have very little knowledge of electronics and do not have any clue how to replace the PCB. So, I have no way to fix this player and have had to buy a replacement. I am now selling this once fantastic player which cost me about $800 for $195 or best offer in the hopes of recouping some small percentage of the money I put into this player. To repeat, this player is NOT working, but is in really nice cosmetic shape and would make a fantastic CD/SACD player at an unbelievable price for someone with the electronic know-how to run some tests and make the needed repairs. Alternatively, it could be used for parts if you already have a 963sa. I have the remote, the original box, and the working progressive scan board which I’ll include for the price. I’ll ship by UPS Ground and split the cost with buyer. US sales only in lower 48 states please. Postal Money order or PayPal are fine. Please see Audiogon ad for pic's.
Thanks for looking
Chris
Hi everyone,
I have decided to sell my heavily modded Philips 963sa SACD/CD player and have just posted it on Audiogon. The player cost me $400 new and the mod’s added another $400. Essentially all signal caps have been replaced with Blackgates and the whole SMPS was reworked by Reference Audio Mods (RAM), who also added two high quality RCA outputs for stereo output, wiring with pure cotton-insulated silver wire, and glued ¾” thick solid oak to the inside of the lid to provide mechanical damping. Stock feet have been replaced with Herbie’s Gabon Ebony domes, and the progressive video scan board has been removed to free holes which were used for the high quality RCA’s for stereo outputs. With all these mod’s, the player had a wonderful sound. Unfortunately, a few months ago it shut off and would not turn back on. I sent it back to RAM who did extensive testing. Kyle at RAM tells me it appears the SMPS PCB has gone bad, which he claims is a common problem with the Philips units. Unfortunately, I have very little knowledge of electronics and do not have any clue how to replace the PCB. So, I have no way to fix this player and have had to buy a replacement. I am now selling this once fantastic player which cost me about $800 for $195 or best offer in the hopes of recouping some small percentage of the money I put into this player. To repeat, this player is NOT working, but is in really nice cosmetic shape and would make a fantastic CD/SACD player at an unbelievable price for someone with the electronic know-how to run some tests and make the needed repairs. Alternatively, it could be used for parts if you already have a 963sa. I have the remote, the original box, and the working progressive scan board which I’ll include for the price. I’ll ship by UPS Ground and split the cost with buyer. US sales only in lower 48 states please. Postal Money order or PayPal are fine. Please see Audiogon ad for pic's.
Thanks for looking
Chris
Digital out problems
Hi!
Although my problem is about the digital output of this player, let me give some background on the modifications I did to my DVD-963SA. Basically i replaced the caps for Panasonic FC, and added the red little MKTs. I did this for the power supply, audio board and the video board. The player is connected to a Marantz SR7500.
Now my problem lies with the digital output (coax as well as optical). When I play CD at 44.1 kHz, 16bit and upsampled to 96 kHz, 24 bit no problem at all. However, upsampled to 192 kHz, my receiver does not make a sound. Also playing dolby digital tracks and dts tracks leaves me with no sound at all. For dobly digital I see the format (2.0 / 5.1 etc) blinking in my display, as if it sometimes manages to see the signal and sometimes not.
Does anybody know what could be the cause of this problem?
I suspected a large jitter in the digital signal, and tried to measure this with an analog scope. I compared it to the output of a Philips Q50 and the signal of the 963 looks much better. The Q50 shows strong overshoots, and the 963 gives a much cleaner block wave. Jitter seems to be equal for both players, yet the Q50 gives digital sound without a problem, and silence for the 963... I attached a picture of my diy jitter measurement of the 963.
Could a low-jitter clock upgrade solve this problem, or is it due to something else?
Thanks for you input!
Marijn
Hi!
Although my problem is about the digital output of this player, let me give some background on the modifications I did to my DVD-963SA. Basically i replaced the caps for Panasonic FC, and added the red little MKTs. I did this for the power supply, audio board and the video board. The player is connected to a Marantz SR7500.
Now my problem lies with the digital output (coax as well as optical). When I play CD at 44.1 kHz, 16bit and upsampled to 96 kHz, 24 bit no problem at all. However, upsampled to 192 kHz, my receiver does not make a sound. Also playing dolby digital tracks and dts tracks leaves me with no sound at all. For dobly digital I see the format (2.0 / 5.1 etc) blinking in my display, as if it sometimes manages to see the signal and sometimes not.
Does anybody know what could be the cause of this problem?
I suspected a large jitter in the digital signal, and tried to measure this with an analog scope. I compared it to the output of a Philips Q50 and the signal of the 963 looks much better. The Q50 shows strong overshoots, and the 963 gives a much cleaner block wave. Jitter seems to be equal for both players, yet the Q50 gives digital sound without a problem, and silence for the 963...
I attached a picture of my diy jitter measurement of the 963.Could a low-jitter clock upgrade solve this problem, or is it due to something else?
Thanks for you input!
Marijn
Attachments
Went thru my stores and found some more parts. What I have found are :
Analog boards where the DAC and upsampling IC resides and where most of the modding is done.
PSCAN boards for the PSCAN video output.
These are brand new unused and are up for sale in the trading post section of the market place.
Cheers.
Analog boards where the DAC and upsampling IC resides and where most of the modding is done.
PSCAN boards for the PSCAN video output.
These are brand new unused and are up for sale in the trading post section of the market place.
Cheers.
I have a 963SA recently went dead.
When the unit is plug into wall power supply, the laser head vibrates, the head assembly moves toward the inner centre position, then, it stuck there and the stepping motor keep running, making a loud puzzle sound from the gear pushing.
I try the <OPEN/CLOSE> and <PLAY> test sequence, at step 05, the laser head moves and stuck at the outer position (away from disk centre), the stepping motor could not stop.
what could be the problem? thanks
When the unit is plug into wall power supply, the laser head vibrates, the head assembly moves toward the inner centre position, then, it stuck there and the stepping motor keep running, making a loud puzzle sound from the gear pushing.
I try the <OPEN/CLOSE> and <PLAY> test sequence, at step 05, the laser head moves and stuck at the outer position (away from disk centre), the stepping motor could not stop.
what could be the problem? thanks
Don't know if anyone's watching this thread anymore, but here goes.
I have an EVS-modded 963sa.
I installed it on a switched outlet and would turn it on via the switch. The IEC cord always had a loose fit and had to be pressed hard to make contact, and would make a crackling noise when inserted.
It worked fine for years, but at some point turning the switch on no longer turned the player on consistently. At first it was coming on 75% of the time, then 50% then 25%, then zip.
Contacted Rick at EVS and he said it's mostly the switching power supply, and the only way to get them is out of a working unit.
So, does anyone know if it's possible to buy just the PS from somewhere? Or any other suggestions on how I should proceed?
BTW, the machine + mods cost me around $1100.
I have an EVS-modded 963sa.
I installed it on a switched outlet and would turn it on via the switch. The IEC cord always had a loose fit and had to be pressed hard to make contact, and would make a crackling noise when inserted.
It worked fine for years, but at some point turning the switch on no longer turned the player on consistently. At first it was coming on 75% of the time, then 50% then 25%, then zip.
Contacted Rick at EVS and he said it's mostly the switching power supply, and the only way to get them is out of a working unit.
So, does anyone know if it's possible to buy just the PS from somewhere? Or any other suggestions on how I should proceed?
BTW, the machine + mods cost me around $1100.