I am wondering if these 130Hz horns are a bit too short.
A smaller driver would allow extra length at the throat end without requiring an increase in compression ratio.
10" for a 130Hz Horn seems rather large.
What about a 6" or 8" driver and aim for >1m of length.
A smaller driver would allow extra length at the throat end without requiring an increase in compression ratio.
10" for a 130Hz Horn seems rather large.
What about a 6" or 8" driver and aim for >1m of length.
Hi 3GGG,
I am using a conical horn with a 81 cm2 thoat size trying to cover a frequency range close to your requirements (200-1500Hz). I have tried the following drivers:
8" Fane Studio 8M (obsolete)
6.5" Ciare 6.38 NdMR
8" Ciare 8.50 NdMR, and
5.25" P.Audio WN-520N
(Besides, I have a pair of 6.5" Beyma 605nD lying around, but I haven't tried them yet. However, JLH's recommendation of the Beyma 6MI100 certainly makes me want to try them out!)
Of the ones above, the Fane and the Ciare 8.50 NdMR both sound great and quite similar (although the spec couln't be more different), and better than the smaller Ciare. The P.Audio was the most revealing in the upper range, and the one I use currently. However, the P.Audio measures more uneven that the Fane and needs eq.
Best regards
Peter
I am using a conical horn with a 81 cm2 thoat size trying to cover a frequency range close to your requirements (200-1500Hz). I have tried the following drivers:
8" Fane Studio 8M (obsolete)
6.5" Ciare 6.38 NdMR
8" Ciare 8.50 NdMR, and
5.25" P.Audio WN-520N
(Besides, I have a pair of 6.5" Beyma 605nD lying around, but I haven't tried them yet. However, JLH's recommendation of the Beyma 6MI100 certainly makes me want to try them out!)
Of the ones above, the Fane and the Ciare 8.50 NdMR both sound great and quite similar (although the spec couln't be more different), and better than the smaller Ciare. The P.Audio was the most revealing in the upper range, and the one I use currently. However, the P.Audio measures more uneven that the Fane and needs eq.
Best regards
Peter
I might have to give the 8MI100 a go. I will model the horn on this driver then put a few other in and see how they perform. Ill keep my eye out for some Fane's and maybe try the 8"Ciare as well.
Hi 3GGG,
In the simulations you have presented, you seem to use a quite high amount of compression. That is also what Hornresp usually "recommends" because max sensitivity has high priority in the software. However, I would use less compression than you do - especially if you want the horn to be used up fairly high in frequency, where the wavelengths gets small. The simulations will then look a bit less 'nice', but they may sound better (less 'squessed') - at least if you do not use a phase plug.
Best regards
Peter
In the simulations you have presented, you seem to use a quite high amount of compression. That is also what Hornresp usually "recommends" because max sensitivity has high priority in the software. However, I would use less compression than you do - especially if you want the horn to be used up fairly high in frequency, where the wavelengths gets small. The simulations will then look a bit less 'nice', but they may sound better (less 'squessed') - at least if you do not use a phase plug.
Best regards
Peter
Thanks Peter, what amount of compression is the max I should use, maybe 2:1
This Horn will only be used up to around 800 or 100hx then a comression driver will step in.
This Horn will only be used up to around 800 or 100hx then a comression driver will step in.
Hi 3GGG,
I would not go higher than 2:1 - actually, I would probably go lower. That also seems to be the trend when pro manufacturers horn load cone drivers for mids as for instance in very large cinema speakers.
BTW, in case you consider a 10" driver, you may take a look at the 18Sound 10NDA610. I haven't tried the driver, so I haven't got a clue how it actually sounds, but based on the specs, it looks very promising.
Good luck!
Best regards
Peter
Instead of guessing about compression etc. it is better to let the drivers T/S-parameters deside. If the presumtive driver gives to high compression-ratio, choose another!
See the equations in the simple spreadsheet. I have also made an easy-to-follow application below them.
About the 8MI100 you will probably get hf-loss IRL.
http://www.revintage.se/tss.xls
See the equations in the simple spreadsheet. I have also made an easy-to-follow application below them.
About the 8MI100 you will probably get hf-loss IRL.
http://www.revintage.se/tss.xls
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Sorry Lars, I cant get the link to work. Also what is IRL?
One of the good things about building my own wooden horns is ill be able to play around with the compression and try a few different ratios.
Here is a quick sim of the 18sound 10"
One of the good things about building my own wooden horns is ill be able to play around with the compression and try a few different ratios.
Here is a quick sim of the 18sound 10"
Attachments
Mystic, only works from time to time here. Use "right-click" and "save target as" as that seems to work all the time. Also zipped it.
IRL=In Real Life🙂
IRL=In Real Life🙂
I mean in general, when one build a horn like this one might expect some hf-drop compared to the sims.
Ie a slight rise is acceptable. I would go for flat at 20 degrees of axis. It will seldom be you sit exactly on-axis of a midbass horn.
Ie a slight rise is acceptable. I would go for flat at 20 degrees of axis. It will seldom be you sit exactly on-axis of a midbass horn.
After more reading I may give the Radian 950pb a try in the 130Hz horn. At $400 each they seem a good option and have favourable reviews.
yes, they got cheaper, and are a bargain at this price, and amongst the finest compression drivers around. Use it above 300hz, and you are done in the lower midrange channel. If you use the Radian above 1khz in such a big horn, than i agree with John about beaming. I would not cross it higher than ~1,5khz.
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