That would be an EL120, not an EL70. If you want a 6.5" driver look at the Alpair 12.
And yes, those are the standard connectors that I have here, that will be perfect until I get everything truly finished up and ready for final install of the driver.
And yes, those are the standard connectors that I have here, that will be perfect until I get everything truly finished up and ready for final install of the driver.
Aye, whatever 😛
I hade to use those connectors since it was too tricky to solder my 4mm^2 cable 😛
Right, although as the EL tag is used for the CSS branded unit, a different name would likely be employed. I believe Mark would like to do some, but if they do appear, I wouldn't expect them anytime soon. Possibly of more immediate interest though: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/markaudio/184372-chr-70-generation-3-coming-soon.html
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Yeah, i've seen that thread about the new CHR-70. Seems like it will be a really good driver and i like the fact the Mark asks the diy community how they want the drivers to be 🙂
I rally dislike those kinds of connectors. And just on a lark, try some CAT5 strands both internal & external (the latter easier for step 1, 1 strand for plus 1 or 2 strands for minus). Report back with your experience. It might be eye-opening.
dave
The problem is i can't get into the cabinets any more. The sides are screwed and glued. If i remove the driver i'd have to get a new baffle which is screwed, plugged and glued...
Next time build with removable back...
Or do the snsible thing and build with removable terminal blocks so that they can be soldered outside of the box. Doesn't stop you from trying the amp-speaker connection.
dave
PS: Lack of removable terminals is a pretty easy fix. Just install them (they go in from the outside, then fish the wire thru to the driver hole).
dave
PS: Lack of removable terminals is a pretty easy fix. Just install them (they go in from the outside, then fish the wire thru to the driver hole).
Dave - shoe connectors aren´t bad. When crimped tightly they beat any sloppily done soldering. And when you´re as stupid as to use litz cable, any soldered connection is submarvellous. Some people still do it, though...tell them to go and chew a beetle.
Well, the problem for the internal cables is that i have to make the drivers connect to the speaker. I can't see any way of doing that without trashing the box.
Trial and error 🙂
I might try to do some CAT5/CAT6 cables some day. There was a guy on the swedish hi-fi forum who has a pair of Troels-Gravesen DTQWT and he make CAT5/CAT6 for mids/highs and EKK for the bass. He said it sounded great.
I mean, i would just need 0.5m of cable so i could strip any random cable here at home to try with. Might do that next weekend after my London trip.
By the way, one goal in London is the HMV record store 🙂
Trial and error 🙂
I might try to do some CAT5/CAT6 cables some day. There was a guy on the swedish hi-fi forum who has a pair of Troels-Gravesen DTQWT and he make CAT5/CAT6 for mids/highs and EKK for the bass. He said it sounded great.
I mean, i would just need 0.5m of cable so i could strip any random cable here at home to try with. Might do that next weekend after my London trip.
By the way, one goal in London is the HMV record store 🙂
Any place within a 200 km of the ocean and AFAIC no crimp is tight enuff. And even the best work poorly with the 24g solid i use.
dave
You just leave the existing connectors & cable in the box unused.
Adding a 2nd set from the outside of the box is not hard.
These just require 2 holes to feed the wire and the solder end of the posts thru (Ed uses these on his EdHorns)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
We like the posts recessed so that you don't have to worry as much about them when you move them about so we use small cups like this (but with the better sounding and cheesier looking plastic nutted posts like the above) -- use a 2" holesaw.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
dave
I don't really understand...
I got the bottom style ones. And still if i get the cables soldered to the new binding posts i will still have to get them to the driver. Which is impossible.
And why should i want to add another pair of binding posts?
I got the bottom style ones. And still if i get the cables soldered to the new binding posts i will still have to get them to the driver. Which is impossible.
And why should i want to add another pair of binding posts?
If you got ones like the bottom you pull them out desolder the old wire, solder new wire. Pull the driver out remove the old wire. Snake the wire from the cup to the driver hole and solde rit to the driver. I can do that in any of the ones we've built (it is tight but doable) -- i have to do it with every fresh set of cabs Chris delivers. If necessary you emply smeone with smaller hands to do that.
dave
dave
I'm sorry but if i remove the drivers i wont be able to put them back in. The screwholes of the EL70 are placed really dumb. Cut the hole 1mm too big and the screwholes end up in the big hole of the driver. I could probably grip the frame of the drivers and tear it out. That's how bad it really is. And remember i build with 12mm particle board...
So, i might try with amp-speaker but not speaker-driver.
So, i might try with amp-speaker but not speaker-driver.
I have spools of Cat5e cable, and if I felt really ambitious I could tear apart some Cat6a cables and steal the copper from them. The higher grades of networking cable use smaller and smaller conductors though, so I am not sure that going beyond Cat5e is really necessary. That and my Cat5e is already rated for 350MHz+ so I don't think my speaker wiring needs better copper.
I would agree that soldered connection are better than just about anything else, but in this case for testing and a temporary fit, not so much. Once the cabinets are made to be less utilitarian then soldering commences.
If I might ask, what is the point of using two strands of cable for one terminal and one strand of cable for the other? I also am slightly puzzled as to why it matters which terminal you do this on.
I would agree that soldered connection are better than just about anything else, but in this case for testing and a temporary fit, not so much. Once the cabinets are made to be less utilitarian then soldering commences.
If I might ask, what is the point of using two strands of cable for one terminal and one strand of cable for the other? I also am slightly puzzled as to why it matters which terminal you do this on.
Not sure... just something that Louis at Omega does. It may be acting as a groundside electron pool.
dave
dave
Yea, Mark got the screw holes pretty close to the abyss... mention that in his new CHR70 thread. Same basket, Hopefully it is one of the improvements he made.
Maybe you'll have to rebuild them with ply as originally planned.
Anyway you can try subbing in CAT5 for the main speaker cables.
dave
Maybe you'll have to rebuild them with ply as originally planned.
Anyway you can try subbing in CAT5 for the main speaker cables.
dave
Attachments
We started with 12 strands per polarity. We kept trying fewer and it kept sounding better. We had to stop at 1 strand per polarity, going any further didn't work so well 😀
dave
dave
dave,
Am I to understand that you, for the first time, stood on the edge of a new frontier and hesitated to go further?
Once you move into increased negative numbers, everything changes. So adding negative numbers of strands can only move you in the direction of an Aural Equilibrium, that sweet spot in a world where there is no longer a concern over relative pluses or minuses.
I hope I've made myself clear. However, my wife is insisting I take my medications... immediately!
Best Regards,
Terry "Einstein" Olson