I've added a Valab clock off ebay to my CD-63 KI. It works fine but makes the transformer buzz like crazy. I've tried using one of the 9.5-0 connections as well as a 14V tap, the results are the same. I've also tried using the 2nd transformer I've fitted in the case and the results are the same. Has anyone use one of these clocks before in a CD-63? Here is a link:
1PPM 11.2896 MHz Low Jitter TCXO Crystal Clock for DAC on eBay (end time 17-Dec-10 21:38:50 GMT)
1PPM 11.2896 MHz Low Jitter TCXO Crystal Clock for DAC on eBay (end time 17-Dec-10 21:38:50 GMT)
Yep, that's right, everything works fine discs read and play fine, I just have to switch it off after 5 minutes. I have fitted a 2nd transformer in the case, 15-0-15 30VA, which powers a Coffin reg for the analogue stage. I've connected this transformer to the clock and get similar results. The heatsink on the clock only gets slightly warm. Very strange!
I've had this where the transformer was wired as if it had a centre-tap. Once I split the secondaries up and used them separately everything was fine.
Can't see why it's be wired that way for a single rail though. How many diodes are in the rectifier section?
Cheers, Lee.
Can't see why it's be wired that way for a single rail though. How many diodes are in the rectifier section?
Cheers, Lee.
Well guys (and dolls) I have just replaced the op amps in my 67OSE with LM4562s
I fitted the LM4562s in my amp yesterday and the sound was more natural (at first I thought harder) base was tighter and a tad more of it, high end was cleaner with more detail (but I think that's because it was cleaner).
What should I expect from the CD player when I try it out this evening?
Tom
I fitted the LM4562s in my amp yesterday and the sound was more natural (at first I thought harder) base was tighter and a tad more of it, high end was cleaner with more detail (but I think that's because it was cleaner).
What should I expect from the CD player when I try it out this evening?
Tom
More of exactly that, a de-clouding of information. The sound will harden up a touch and become slightly uninteresting but you'll appreciate the clearer sound in all parts of the spectrum. Depending on the rest of the system it could have quite the Marmite effect.
SO what would be the difference in sound now and when the op amps are run in, doubt I'll hear the diiference as it'll porbably be a slow and gradual process but for instance if I fitted them and listended and then run them in and listened again....
Tom
Tom
That difference will be far more subtle and it's hard to know exactly how much of that change in perception is actually "running in" vs how much is your ear/brain acclimatising to your new sound. And this is further clouded, IMO, by the temporary loss of quality due to powering down and moving your equipment. Small upgrades can be buried in this period and only appreciated on long drawn-out listening of familiar music.
The usual think for the LM4562 (as with most upgrades) is the bottom end extends and smooths out a bit over a few hundred hour. Don't take our word for it, have a good listen over the weekend and see / hear what happens. Other things like amp and speakers will show up the differences of burn in to different degrees.
Brent
Brent
It does get hot, I've heard back from the seller, he says the clock requires 1A continuous current (!). This is what my player currently looks like (the 5V reg isn't finished yet, it is just fitted for size) Apologies for the poor quality:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It will need an external power supply, this current is too high to draw from the original tranny.
What's the input voltage of the clock? Multiply that by 1 amp and you have the power it consumes. For example, if it's 12V, that means 12W. You can solder with that! All that heat has to go somewhere, so there must be some parts on that board that get really hot. It's either that or the spec's or design are seriously flawed.
You should put a DMM in series with the clock, to check if the current is really 1A.
Regards,
Ray
You should put a DMM in series with the clock, to check if the current is really 1A.
Regards,
Ray
The board on the richt up side seems familiar to me but unpopulated.... Is that a shunt board ?