No, just insulate the unused wires with tape so they will not short when moving about in the box.
Hi mate´s,
finally i found some time to solve my small ground loop problem in my Reference TDA1541A DAC. Thanks to two days holiday. 😛
Now with the new star grounding in the DAC everything is absolute quiet and i could connect the DCB1 direct to my 300B SE mono´s.
Till now my Audionet MAP I runs in this position. A really very good sounding pre amp.
To make it short, the DCB1 kicked the audionet in his a.. 😱 ...circuit.
The 3D soundstage is such precise, awesome. Also the width of the stage between the speakers is perfect.
If you shut your eyes, you don´t know where the speakers are.
And the DCB1 is fast, super fast! My Audionet is indeed fast but this one...
What impressed me also is the precision in the low and lowest end and the possibility to hear so much micro details. Never heard this before.
So everyone that makes the DCB1 Blue possible, many many thanks.
The next step is to integrate the DCB1, the Lightspeed, a 6-input relais switch and the shunts into a nice case.
Work for the next weeks...
Oliver
finally i found some time to solve my small ground loop problem in my Reference TDA1541A DAC. Thanks to two days holiday. 😛
Now with the new star grounding in the DAC everything is absolute quiet and i could connect the DCB1 direct to my 300B SE mono´s.
Till now my Audionet MAP I runs in this position. A really very good sounding pre amp.
To make it short, the DCB1 kicked the audionet in his a.. 😱 ...circuit.
The 3D soundstage is such precise, awesome. Also the width of the stage between the speakers is perfect.
If you shut your eyes, you don´t know where the speakers are.
And the DCB1 is fast, super fast! My Audionet is indeed fast but this one...
What impressed me also is the precision in the low and lowest end and the possibility to hear so much micro details. Never heard this before.
So everyone that makes the DCB1 Blue possible, many many thanks.
The next step is to integrate the DCB1, the Lightspeed, a 6-input relais switch and the shunts into a nice case.
Work for the next weeks...
Oliver
Just parallel. If any problems occur, interface the second one with 100R in series directly on the connector's center pin.
Nice review of the blue DCB1 Oliver
I also concur with what you say...but i still recommend uping your current...im running at 350ma soon to be 500ma 🙂
When i upped the current from 80ma to 250ma to me there was a huge difference, Music floated...filling the room...and every time i have up'ed the current i have percieved gains in SQ.
Still in the process of building the reference tda1541a dac...cant wait to get it finished and partnered with the dcb1 😀
Alon
I also concur with what you say...but i still recommend uping your current...im running at 350ma soon to be 500ma 🙂
When i upped the current from 80ma to 250ma to me there was a huge difference, Music floated...filling the room...and every time i have up'ed the current i have percieved gains in SQ.
Still in the process of building the reference tda1541a dac...cant wait to get it finished and partnered with the dcb1 😀
Alon
Yeah Oliver, why not hot that rod up!
10R wirewounds and new bigger heatsinks. Take a look at the Indian Chief's I'm using from Farnell - you'll like them 😉 Indian Chief Heat Sink
10R wirewounds and new bigger heatsinks. Take a look at the Indian Chief's I'm using from Farnell - you'll like them 😉 Indian Chief Heat Sink
Awesome heatsinks Lucas. I'm having some of them cheers.
Do they do the business?
Yeah, they are excellent performers. What really surprised me is how tightly they grip the buggers, considering there's no bolt - tight and flat on the mosfets and conducting well. You have to support the legs very well when squeezing them on of course.
He is already in stage 1 hot rod I believe. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/anal...hotrodded-blue-dcb1-build-29.html#post2299740
Bloody hell Salas, I didn't realize there were stages in the hot-rodding process!
Would you mind giving me a run down on the component values for each stage including the expected mA for each stage.
So -
stage 1 = 10R (80mA?)
stage 2 = ?
Etc
Thanks
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Thanks Lucas.
What level of hot-rodding are you at? And what level do you think the heatsinks could handle?
Cheers
Rich,
You are kidding, right? 10R 5W is the standard Vindaloo, I believe. It's the required heat. If you want to go and order yourself a Phal, well... that's pretty manly stuff and we'll all respect you a lot! 😉
Salas,
Ah yes, he's got himself some fancy hotrod sinks already.
Oliver,
It must be very satisfying, making such quality stuff from the very best parts! I'm a tad envious I must confess. Thanks for sharing your projects so openly! It's helped me a lot.
You are kidding, right? 10R 5W is the standard Vindaloo, I believe. It's the required heat. If you want to go and order yourself a Phal, well... that's pretty manly stuff and we'll all respect you a lot! 😉
Salas,
Ah yes, he's got himself some fancy hotrod sinks already.
Oliver,
It must be very satisfying, making such quality stuff from the very best parts! I'm a tad envious I must confess. Thanks for sharing your projects so openly! It's helped me a lot.
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I'd order a Phal if I knew what one was.... !
Sod it I'm gonna bolt mine to a pair of Land Rovers 😀
Stage 0 = circa 75-85mA Ecological and cool. Smart car territory, the twin 47R 1W marked on the Blue and no or mini sinks will do.
Stage 1 = circa 200mA. Boosted enough, all purpose, some logical sinks. Standard Blue HR, Golf GTI territory. 4W dissipation per rail. 10R 5W.
Stage 2 = circa 600mA. Increased grip and pull back, Porsche stuff. 12W dissipation per rail. Sinks like for a 30W class A/B amp. 3R3 5W.
Stage 3 = circa 2A. No holds sense, Enzo feel. 40W dissipation per rail. F5 size sinks & Tx. 1R 12W.
And then the fire department comes and locks us up. When we climb down the court stairs after fined by Kyoto, polar bear activists spray paint us. Only benefit, we have met Paris Hilton in the court.😀
edit: Note that the currents can vary from build to build due to different Vf Leds (color, brand, batch) and Mosfet VGS tolerances. The above example values are nearer to green 2V+ forward drop Leds. For red Leds, stage 1,2,3 could be 8.2R, 2R2, 0.56R ballpark.
Thanks Salas.
I'm thinking of replacing the resistors with wire links and melting a hole to the earths core. I'll listen to the amp wearing full protective clothing and wrapped in a fire blanket....
Then again I'll start with the 10R's... 😉
Cheers mate
I'm thinking of replacing the resistors with wire links and melting a hole to the earths core. I'll listen to the amp wearing full protective clothing and wrapped in a fire blanket....
Then again I'll start with the 10R's... 😉
Cheers mate
And who the hell said that diy'ers don't have a sense of humor 😉
Thanks for the advice, will start with stage 1 and commence gradually. But honestly I don't think I will ever reach stage 3 with F5 heatsinks for a buffer!
Anand.