Hifimediy, can you tell us the exact specifications of the V2 coils and of the V2_updated coils?
Thanks, bye!
G.
Hi Don, we use T80-2 on V2 now.
v2 Manual
I have made a user manual. Download it here.
http://steinar.eu/tk2050/v2manual.pdf
Let me know if you think I should change anything.
I have made a user manual. Download it here.
http://steinar.eu/tk2050/v2manual.pdf
Let me know if you think I should change anything.
Ok, thanks.Hi Don, we use T80-2 on V2 now.
And what about the coils on the "older" V2.0A board?
very nice and detailed manual. great job. I wish every amp on the web was described that way!I have made a user manual. Download it here.
http://steinar.eu/tk2050/v2manual.pdf
Let me know if you think I should change anything.
chapter 3.1 "Normally both lights should come on. If the green light does not come one," looks like a typo.
Ok, thanks.for pre-version of V2, we use T60.
Is there some room to install the T80 coils on the pre-version V2?
Or is the V2.0B board a bit wider to accomodate the bigger T80 coils?
Thanks, bye!!
Your 13amp version is still from autocostruire.com or from another shop?Today i installed 2 of the V2 amp boards in an Alpine based car system - the V2 sound superb of course and LOTS of Grunt . 🙂
To power the two V2s boards in the the car i used a 13amp version of this 27.6v power supply ,(you have to email to get the 13 amp version) but anyway im sure these 5 amp supplies shown are fine for one V2 : Autocostruire il negozio degli autocostruttori
Thanks, bye!
Looking with more care to both the boards, seems to me that on the V2.0B you move a little backward the heatsink to create some room for the bigger T80 coils.Ok, thanks.
Is there some room to install the T80 coils on the pre-version V2?
Or is the V2.0B board a bit wider to accomodate the bigger T80 coils?
Bye!
Your 13amp version is still from autocostruire.com or from another shop?
Thanks, bye!
yes it was , i bought it from them 2 years ago.
🙂
Ok, thanks.
Is there some room to install the T80 coils on the pre-version V2?
Or is the V2.0B board a bit wider to accomodate the bigger T80 coils?
Thanks, bye!!
I think you could use t68 coils if you want to upgrade.
very nice and detailed manual. great job. I wish every amp on the web was described that way!
chapter 3.1 "Normally both lights should come on. If the green light does not come one," looks like a typo.
Thanks!
Measuring ampere
I finally arrived at measuring the current draw, first with the v1 amp. I did it like this: Connected the + powersupply to COM port on mulitimeter, and connected from 20A (unfused) out on mulitimeter to + input on amp. I set the multimeter to 200m A-DC. Then I read 1.1 on display. That would mean that it's drawing 110mA right? I turned on some music a turned up a bit, but no change from 1.1 I have sensible speakers, so maybe I didn't draw many watts..
Did I do this right?
Will try with v2 board also.
I finally arrived at measuring the current draw, first with the v1 amp. I did it like this: Connected the + powersupply to COM port on mulitimeter, and connected from 20A (unfused) out on mulitimeter to + input on amp. I set the multimeter to 200m A-DC. Then I read 1.1 on display. That would mean that it's drawing 110mA right? I turned on some music a turned up a bit, but no change from 1.1 I have sensible speakers, so maybe I didn't draw many watts..
Did I do this right?
Will try with v2 board also.
What about the uH value on both the boards?for pre-version of V2, we use T60.
I assume coils are 10uH but I ask you.
And what changes in audio listening using a lower (or higher) uH value?
How to adeguate the output cap values if using other coils (lower or higher uH)?
Thanks!!
I finally arrived at measuring the current draw, first with the v1 amp. I did it like this: Connected the + powersupply to COM port on mulitimeter, and connected from 20A (unfused) out on mulitimeter to + input on amp. I set the multimeter to 200m A-DC. Then I read 1.1 on display. That would mean that it's drawing 110mA right? I turned on some music a turned up a bit, but no change from 1.1 I have sensible speakers, so maybe I didn't draw many watts..
Did I do this right?
Will try with v2 board also.
I have sadly no idea if your connected points are right or wrong. And I am also not sure if a multimeter is suitable enough to measure power/current draws in that circuit you have choosen.
For example: Some people say that just only 1 watts per channel is enough to reach midle listenning levels in a bigger room. Only 1 watt ! But this is only a part of the truth. They probably mean the pure music power in the room.
I think there is not calculated the heat loss within the speakers to reach this 1 watt music power. To reach this you potentially need 5 watts/channel from the amp. This means 80 % loss in the speakers. Because of class-D/Tripath has abut 80 - 90 efficiency that means in the end 6 watts /channel from the powersupply.
V * A = Watts
If you take this calculation that means for 6 watts/channel (12 watts total) you draw at 30 volts supply voltage ----> 0,4 ampere = 400 mA
Hope this was right calculated and helped you a bit
I'm note sure. 1.1 could be 1100mA (1.1A).I finally arrived at measuring the current draw, first with the v1 amp. I did it like this: Connected the + powersupply to COM port on mulitimeter, and connected from 20A (unfused) out on mulitimeter to + input on amp. I set the multimeter to 200m A-DC. Then I read 1.1 on display. That would mean that it's drawing 110mA right?
Try to set the multimeter to an higher scale (for example, 2A or 5A) and see what happens, if the value increases when you push up the volume.
Maybe you could be out-of-scale @ 200mA on the multimeter.
Hi. Yes I was measuring current into the amp, not to the speakers. Just want to know if I do it correctly.I have sadly no idea if your connected points are right or wrong. And I am also not sure if a multimeter is suitable enough to measure power/current draws in that circuit you have choosen.
For example: Some people say that just only 1 watts per channel is enough to reach midle listenning levels in a bigger room. Only 1 watt ! But this is only a part of the truth. They probably mean the pure music power in the room.
I think there is not calculated the heat loss within the speakers to reach this 1 watt music power. To reach this you potentially need 5 watts/channel from the amp. This means 80 % loss in the speakers. Because of class-D/Tripath has abut 80 - 90 efficiency that means in the end 6 watts /channel from the powersupply.
V * A = Watts
If you take this calculation that means for 6 watts/channel (12 watts total) you draw at 30 volts supply voltage ----> 0,4 ampere = 400 mA
Hope this was right calculated and helped you a bit
Also I think when people talk about loudness at 1W they mean 1 watt from the amp. Don't think you can talk about 1W music level from the speakers. They produce vibration/music, not watt. If you give them 1 Watt they produce a certain amount of sound, which can be measured in dB. All of the watts you give them are transferred into heat.
I tried next step which is 20, and I get 0.1I'm note sure. 1.1 could be 1100mA (1.1A).
Try to set the multimeter to an higher scale (for example, 2A or 5A) and see what happens, if the value increases when you push up the volume.
Maybe you could be out-of-scale @ 200mA on the multimeter.
So you're reading 100mA, but seems too much low for a TK2050.I tried next step which is 20, and I get 0.1
I will do the same test and I'll let you know (but not soon 'cause I'm very busy).
Bye!
According to the datasheet the "supply current" (by which I think they mean Idle current) is 60 mA, so the figure sounds about right to me with two channels running.
/U.
/U.
Just a couple of techical questions.
1. Since this board already has a bridge rectifier and if we want to use a different psu - is it possible to solder the rectified voltage Vdc from (for instance) batteries directly to the legs on cap C48? - if so - what is the limit of Vdc here? ( I assume it is approx 31Vdc ?)
If we connect Vdc to the terminals would it not be rectified 2 times? I am not sure how that works..
2. Is the input caps really necessary?. Lets say we have output caps on the dac with value 3.3uf and relative short signal cables.
Is it then possible to solder the input signal directly to R4 and R1? (Assuming to use the board as a power amp) ?
1. Since this board already has a bridge rectifier and if we want to use a different psu - is it possible to solder the rectified voltage Vdc from (for instance) batteries directly to the legs on cap C48? - if so - what is the limit of Vdc here? ( I assume it is approx 31Vdc ?)
If we connect Vdc to the terminals would it not be rectified 2 times? I am not sure how that works..
2. Is the input caps really necessary?. Lets say we have output caps on the dac with value 3.3uf and relative short signal cables.
Is it then possible to solder the input signal directly to R4 and R1? (Assuming to use the board as a power amp) ?
Input cap is rly possible, else, on low volume levels, the pot will short the 2.5v bias from the tc2000 which will not like it.
Output caps on the dac might not be really necessary, seems like a 50k pot might be well suited, but i dont have any experience.
I remember nick running his dac without output caps to this amp though.
Output caps on the dac might not be really necessary, seems like a 50k pot might be well suited, but i dont have any experience.
I remember nick running his dac without output caps to this amp though.
theoretically you can also measure the vibrations in the air which also lead in heat. This is usually notified in dB (you said it yet also). But current measurements are easier to handle than different sonic waves out from the speakers. For example you supply the speaker with 5 W amp power. If your speaker produces 4 W heat that means to me 1 W is converted in sonic or air movement, vibrations - call it as you like. That´s also heat/energy.They produce vibration/music, not watt.
So I could also say that an amp produces current and not watt...😉
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