Generally speaking, one should think about where he needs a capacitor then check some cap datasheets.Thanks vzs, I found the WIMAs at mouser (MKP2-.1/100/5 WIMA Polypropylene Film Capacitors) for 0.533 EUR. Are the Polypropylene caps the best solution for the application?
If using wimas (as are pretty cheap in Europe), in my opinion MKPs would be the best here for decoupling and FKPs for coupling (10nF)
I left my DAC at the lab (home of a scope) so I can't do anything tonight but I just looked at the schematic and see two 100k resistors to ground after the output caps. So wouldn't I get 50k output to ground?
Again thanks for your help.
Yes, that's why i said minimal, it wouldn't read a perfect conductivity depending on the sensitivity of your DMM.
As adamus said, get pics up. Be sure you have audio output from the DAC board for starters.
Generally speaking, one should think about where he needs a capacitor then check some cap datasheets.
If using wimas (as are pretty cheap in Europe), in my opinion MKPs would be the best here for decoupling and FKPs for coupling (10nF)
Thanks for the tip vzs
It's working !!!!! 😛😉😀😱🙂
Thanks to everyone who kept me moving forward.
Long story short. My problem was a flaky "switch" I used for in phase out of phase. Hard wired to in phase and everything came up.
Using ECC182s, Adamus LED mod, and Munford Silver/Oil with Russian Teflon bypass. 105V at the anodes.
After first couple of hours I can say the sound is very nice. Bass is tight, vry sweet voices and very good detail.
Best
Bob
Thanks to everyone who kept me moving forward.
Long story short. My problem was a flaky "switch" I used for in phase out of phase. Hard wired to in phase and everything came up.
Using ECC182s, Adamus LED mod, and Munford Silver/Oil with Russian Teflon bypass. 105V at the anodes.
After first couple of hours I can say the sound is very nice. Bass is tight, vry sweet voices and very good detail.
Best
Bob
It's working !!!!! 😛😉😀😱🙂
Thanks to everyone who kept me moving forward.
Long story short. My problem was a flaky "switch" I used for in phase out of phase. Hard wired to in phase and everything came up.
Using ECC182s, Adamus LED mod, and Munford Silver/Oil with Russian Teflon bypass. 105V at the anodes.
After first couple of hours I can say the sound is very nice. Bass is tight, vry sweet voices and very good detail.
Best
Bob
😎 It would be nice to see a picture of your DAC. Can you post one?
Cheers,
Fred
Hi,
My boards arrived today. Thanks a million Quanghao 😀
Cheers,
F.
PCB so you may have, make sure you are getting it finally, after several months. PCB has previously come close to your house, but it can not find you, return it to me!
Wish you complete it fast!
thank you !😛😛
Hopefully better.
Thanks for posting your DAC photos. Looks awesome!
Hi Quanghao,
I need full board (DAC END, Salas shunt for DAC, I/V stage and PSU for I/V Stage)
I will wait until your PCB for PSU for I/V is ready.
Thanks.
I need full board (DAC END, Salas shunt for DAC, I/V stage and PSU for I/V Stage)
I will wait until your PCB for PSU for I/V is ready.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Once I have settled on final touches I will put it in a wood box with copper accents.
For those interested in the 6H6P,6H1P,6H2P I can recommend Oliver's Tube-I-zator board. I had it hooked up to the DAC End2 for a couple of hours this PM and it also has superb sonics. Tight bass, superb voices and excellent detail. Nice option if the NOS ECC182s keep going up.
Enjoy
Once I have settled on final touches I will put it in a wood box with copper accents.
For those interested in the 6H6P,6H1P,6H2P I can recommend Oliver's Tube-I-zator board. I had it hooked up to the DAC End2 for a couple of hours this PM and it also has superb sonics. Tight bass, superb voices and excellent detail. Nice option if the NOS ECC182s keep going up.
Enjoy
Keep attention to the output capacitor value.
Cout (uF) Rload (ohm) Ft(-3dB)
1.00 10000 15.92
1.00 50000 3.18
10.00 10000 1.59
4.70 10000 3.39
0.47 50000 6.78
Cout (uF) Rload (ohm) Ft(-3dB)
1.00 10000 15.92
1.00 50000 3.18
10.00 10000 1.59
4.70 10000 3.39
0.47 50000 6.78
Just sharing
My friend uses Nelson Pass D-1 (replacement for Supply + IV Stage) for my DAC End 2.
But it hasn't worked well. He said the problem is on D-1.
(He'll find what really happened later)
Sound output ( Right and Left channel) isn't at the same level.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
My friend uses Nelson Pass D-1 (replacement for Supply + IV Stage) for my DAC End 2.
But it hasn't worked well. He said the problem is on D-1.
(He'll find what really happened later)
Sound output ( Right and Left channel) isn't at the same level.
Just sharing
My friend uses Nelson Pass D-1 (replacement for Supply + IV Stage) for my DAC End 2.
But it hasn't worked well. He said the problem is on D-1.
(He'll find what really happened later)
Sound output ( Right and Left channel) isn't at the same level.
Very nice!
I have been thinking about trying the D1 also since I have good experience with it in previous builds.
Please keep us updated.
Hopefully better.
Nice build Flocchini!
Did you omit the filter completly?
Also you seem to leave out R30-R33?
Did you try the I/V without Adamus LED mod?
Great to more and more people get there Dac-End singing 🙂
very nice, and the first filterless example i have seen. PArt of me wants to remove it (the tweakers side) but the other half of me thinks that there is a wonderful synergy with the rest of the system.....
I'll probably try it
I'll probably try it
Hi Quanghao,
I need full board (DAC END, Salas shunt for DAC, I/V stage and PSU for I/V Stage)
I will wait until your PCB for PSU for I/V is ready.
Thanks.
Hi all!
Last sunday I was sent PCB DAC-end2 to all friend! Thank you very much!
Hi m461c14n!
No I have only : ( some PCB)
PCB DAC-END
PCB Salas shunt for DAC
PCB I/V stage.
No have PCb supply for IV, I think you use Salas HV, it is better the sound!
Quanghao
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