Well, in the eyes of two witnesses (or more)... I'm guessing its official; use the EL84 tube in the Suppo EL84 amp at your own risk! Sorry to hear that rhing lost his GL tube, that's a real bummer!
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More Suppo Listening Impressions
I had a get together at my home with some fellow audiophiles. We started with an EF86 linestage driving the Suppo Golden Voice. The sound was full, rich and very musical. Everyone liked the combination. My friend who built the tube linestage amp installed some Russian K75 PIO caps bypassed with Russian FT-2 Teflon caps. They made a smoother and more detailed presentation. Overall, it was a very musical presentation.
Next up was the same linestage with a pair of 300B DRD SET monoblocks. We gave it time to warm up, but the sound was somewhat dry and the highs were accentuated to the point where cymbals and the flute overshadowed vocals on the "House of Flying Daggers" soundtrack. The warm lower mids disappeared and left a cold, lifeless sound. The detail went missing. We weren't having fun anymore.
So we took the 300B DRD SETs out along with the Randall linestage amp, and put in a friend's modified Anthem Integrated One, an EL84 P-P amp. Wow! With my Klipsch Forte IIs, this was the clear winner. It had plenty of soul and detail. Everyone seemed convinced that EL84 P-P amps sound great with the Klipsch speakers.
We went back to the 300Bs again after the heaters on the monoblocks had warmed up over an hour. We flipped the switches to the high voltage B+ (plate) power, and the sound was much better. It had a different presentation with a bit less body in the lower mids, but it sounded full, immediate and the soundstage was huge. Still, I preferred my friend's modded Anthem, but the Suppo wasn't far behind. The 300B amps weren't thin, but they just sounded like they were working. The Suppo and Anthem just made sweet music.
I guess I'll have to get a quartet of JJ Tesla EL84s for my Suppo GV-1.
I had a get together at my home with some fellow audiophiles. We started with an EF86 linestage driving the Suppo Golden Voice. The sound was full, rich and very musical. Everyone liked the combination. My friend who built the tube linestage amp installed some Russian K75 PIO caps bypassed with Russian FT-2 Teflon caps. They made a smoother and more detailed presentation. Overall, it was a very musical presentation.
Next up was the same linestage with a pair of 300B DRD SET monoblocks. We gave it time to warm up, but the sound was somewhat dry and the highs were accentuated to the point where cymbals and the flute overshadowed vocals on the "House of Flying Daggers" soundtrack. The warm lower mids disappeared and left a cold, lifeless sound. The detail went missing. We weren't having fun anymore.
So we took the 300B DRD SETs out along with the Randall linestage amp, and put in a friend's modified Anthem Integrated One, an EL84 P-P amp. Wow! With my Klipsch Forte IIs, this was the clear winner. It had plenty of soul and detail. Everyone seemed convinced that EL84 P-P amps sound great with the Klipsch speakers.
We went back to the 300Bs again after the heaters on the monoblocks had warmed up over an hour. We flipped the switches to the high voltage B+ (plate) power, and the sound was much better. It had a different presentation with a bit less body in the lower mids, but it sounded full, immediate and the soundstage was huge. Still, I preferred my friend's modded Anthem, but the Suppo wasn't far behind. The 300B amps weren't thin, but they just sounded like they were working. The Suppo and Anthem just made sweet music.
I guess I'll have to get a quartet of JJ Tesla EL84s for my Suppo GV-1.
FYI my Mullard re-issue EL-84s sound great! I've been running them for 2 weeks now with no problems. Also, I checked and pin 1 is not connected internally to any of the other pins.
The output tubes supplied by Suppo snap, crackle and pop every 2 minutes or so. Very annoying! The Mullards are dead quiet.
Also, I am using Sovtek 6N1P-EB driver tubes. I'm very happy with the sound of them. I do intend to find a pair of RCA clear tops to see what all the fuss is about though. 🙂
Bill
The output tubes supplied by Suppo snap, crackle and pop every 2 minutes or so. Very annoying! The Mullards are dead quiet.
Also, I am using Sovtek 6N1P-EB driver tubes. I'm very happy with the sound of them. I do intend to find a pair of RCA clear tops to see what all the fuss is about though. 🙂
Bill
Very sorry to hear about the death of your Gold Lion tube rhing. 🙁
If there is any consolation, it is the knowledge that you've effectively 'taken one for the team' as the rest of us will benefit from your sacrifice. I've been strongly considering buying some NOS EL84 tubes but now it seems like I will be best off sticking with the JJs.
Also many thanks for your latest comparison against other amps. It sounds like the little Suppo didn't disgrace itself at all, and you haven't performed the triode mod yet either have you?
If there is any consolation, it is the knowledge that you've effectively 'taken one for the team' as the rest of us will benefit from your sacrifice. I've been strongly considering buying some NOS EL84 tubes but now it seems like I will be best off sticking with the JJs.
Also many thanks for your latest comparison against other amps. It sounds like the little Suppo didn't disgrace itself at all, and you haven't performed the triode mod yet either have you?
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Excellent news MashBill.
I'd very much like to try Mullard re-issues in comparison to my JJs so I'll probably pickup a quad of them at some point.
I experienced exactly the same thing. Initially I was worried the fault lied with the amp, but as soon as the JJs went in the 'pop's were gone.
You can find matched pairs of them pretty cheaply on eBay. I didn't find them to be as big an upgrade as the mods I've done (coupling caps especially) but for the cost I still rate them as a very worthwhile improvement.
It's also worth mentioning that the improvement gained from upgrading the driver tubes was much more apparent than when upgrading power tubes, at least in my modded amp.
So, are the safety concerns on these amps rectified with the units shipping now? If I order one today will it have a fuse and two pole power switch? Is it safe to assume that the tubes that come with the amp work well and don't pop or have other issues?
You guys that have shared your experiences with this amp have done a great job! I'm really interested in this product due to the cost, but don't want to buy unusable junk. 😉
Rick
You guys that have shared your experiences with this amp have done a great job! I'm really interested in this product due to the cost, but don't want to buy unusable junk. 😉
Rick
Very sad to hear that ring's tube damaged.
I droped the tube replacement recommence on the websie and replaced with a caution statement. Tubes are so different. even they are the under the same naming.
to Rick, You'd better wait later for our 6P15 V2. this one will have
fused added,
115V/230V voltage switch,
large volum pot.
Dual pole switch.
Joe
PS:the following photo is a sample amp, the product offered will be slightly different
I droped the tube replacement recommence on the websie and replaced with a caution statement. Tubes are so different. even they are the under the same naming.
to Rick, You'd better wait later for our 6P15 V2. this one will have
fused added,
115V/230V voltage switch,
large volum pot.
Dual pole switch.
Joe
PS:the following photo is a sample amp, the product offered will be slightly different
Attachments
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Joe, what will be the price on the SP15-V2? Will it remain at $130.00 plus $75.00 for shipping?
Thanks.
Rick
Thanks.
Rick
Check my thread "Grid Screen Alignment X-Rays".
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/130597-grid-screen-alignment-x-rays-6.html#post1627285
I found an RCA 6BQ5 that was clearly beam power (maybe 6AQ5) inside.
I've heard rumour it was done to get around Mullard patents or something...
Probably got my stories/facts/rumours all mixed up? But sounds a plausible
excuse why your RCA internals might be connected funny. Mine were.
Is your RCA 6BQ5 one that also does NOT have normal two wings on top?
Wings for heatsinking the screen? If beam power, the screen might be all
in G1's shadow anyway, so not needing wings. Probably the best way to
tell if you don't have an X-Ray machine.
Actually, reviewing those pics, the screens were not even aligned.
I have no idea how the screen never self-destructed without wings...
Or why you would use a beam former without any such alignment???
Whatever the reason, my Pin 1 and 2 are welded together like yours.
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I would have to say I prefer the look of the old design, simply because I enjoy watching the tubes glow while I listen.
But one benefit of the new case is that it would be possible to mount larger/better output transformers outside on the top plate of the amp if the owner wanted to upgrade. (just drill a few holes, not a big job)
By contrast the only thing I don't like about my original Suppo EL84 is that there's no room to fit more expensive output transformers without buying or building a whole new case for it. 🙁
Sound + Looks = WOW
I agree with Bosk, I much prefer the old look. The new one is simply too standard, too boring. It will be lost in a sea of metal boxes.
Seeing the tubes glow is a powerful attraction. It is a statement of being different.
Great sound is great, great looks is also great, great sound and looks is FANTASTIC.
By the way Joe (SPAUDIO) will you be offering an upgrade kit of components to V2 spec?
Or at least a list so we can source locally?
Also how is the EL34 amp coming on?
Any chance I could buy the components?
At a special DIYAudio.com price of course 🙂
Everything but the case, as above I find the case too boring. I want to build a case to display these beautiful tubes 🙂
Keep up the good work Joe.
Best Regards
Peter
I agree with Bosk, I much prefer the old look. The new one is simply too standard, too boring. It will be lost in a sea of metal boxes.
Seeing the tubes glow is a powerful attraction. It is a statement of being different.
Great sound is great, great looks is also great, great sound and looks is FANTASTIC.
By the way Joe (SPAUDIO) will you be offering an upgrade kit of components to V2 spec?
Or at least a list so we can source locally?
Also how is the EL34 amp coming on?
Any chance I could buy the components?
At a special DIYAudio.com price of course 🙂
Everything but the case, as above I find the case too boring. I want to build a case to display these beautiful tubes 🙂
Keep up the good work Joe.
Best Regards
Peter
Just checked all of my Genalex Gold lions and pin 1 does not short with any of the other pins. Although if you look in the tube the pin is wired and going somewhere. So is it a bad idea to leave pin 1 connected to pin3, via the pcb? I do not want to cut-off pin 1 as I will probably forget to align the pins correctly when I tube roll and if I cut the traces, I can't use the 6p15 tubes. Decisions, decisions... any ideas?
Thanks
JimS
Thanks
JimS
So we're looking at $235.00 shipped to the States?
Will these be ready for shipping next week Joe?
Personally I'd rather be able to see the tubes, but if forced I'd choose function over form.
Thanks Joe.
Rick
Just my two cents here regarding the new amp design... Is it really a good idea to mount the power supply filter caps so close to the power tubes underneath a cover? Moreover, the film coupling caps are standing in between the driver tubes and power tubes, so swapping in other coupling caps for improved sound quality could be challenging. I guess you could put taller standoffs under the PCB and mount them underneath, but I doubt there's enough room for Russian FT-3 Teflons or other large capacitors in the coupling positions.
If you're 100% sure that pin 1 is not internally connected to any other pin, there will be no problem.
Wow, you are right! Those caps so close to the tubes will end in a big bang...
They need to be as close to the CT-tap of the OPT, but I like to keep them far away from the tubes.
Could not agree with the remark about the coupling caps. I'm not a believer when it comes to huge sized caps in that position.
(that's personal, not very scientific)
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Thanks, that's what I thought. I am just concerned that maybe it could arc in the tube??? Why else would have Rhing's Gold lion died?
JimS
JimS
That's cool.😎 There's no single "right" way to most things in audio.
However, whether you have large coupling caps or small coupling caps, they should not be sitting next to hot tubes. Heat and electronic components don't get along.
I am quite sure, this design will heat up to much, not only the electrolytics.
And the main trannie: in this position and orientation, it will spread a very nice electromagnetic 50/60Hz field over the whole pcb.
I would also recommend to many chinese manufacturers to carefully grind the edge of the frontplate, before anodizing it. Without grinding it is looking horrible!
Just my two cents, please take it as "positive" feedback!
Franz
And the main trannie: in this position and orientation, it will spread a very nice electromagnetic 50/60Hz field over the whole pcb.
I would also recommend to many chinese manufacturers to carefully grind the edge of the frontplate, before anodizing it. Without grinding it is looking horrible!
Just my two cents, please take it as "positive" feedback!
Franz
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