Hello,
I recently placed an impulse bid on eBay for these and won them. I was wondering if anybody had any idea of the T/S parameters for these or know of a good enclosure size for them. I was thinking of making a pair of mini double mouthed horns for these, possibly an adapted design from Frugal-horn's website. They are only rated for 3 watts which might work very well as a small listening set for my 2A3 SET. Any help at all in choosing an enclosure would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jeff
I recently placed an impulse bid on eBay for these and won them. I was wondering if anybody had any idea of the T/S parameters for these or know of a good enclosure size for them. I was thinking of making a pair of mini double mouthed horns for these, possibly an adapted design from Frugal-horn's website. They are only rated for 3 watts which might work very well as a small listening set for my 2A3 SET. Any help at all in choosing an enclosure would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jeff
Out of interest what did you pay?
You'll have to measure the specs... they have been found to be all over the map due to different amounts of aging.
3W is on the low side of the power you need for these. I'm currently using 20 W.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/56478-driver-real-fe103a.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/158778-seeking-suggestions-fostex-fe103a.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/117482-foster-fe103a.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/161373-alnico-question.html
dave
You'll have to measure the specs... they have been found to be all over the map due to different amounts of aging.
3W is on the low side of the power you need for these. I'm currently using 20 W.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/56478-driver-real-fe103a.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/158778-seeking-suggestions-fostex-fe103a.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/117482-foster-fe103a.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/161373-alnico-question.html
dave
more for shipping
I paid more for shipping I think! No, really, I think I paid about $25 for the pair. I don't have the equipment to make measurements so I was thinking of building one of the Frugal Horn designs for the F103 and hope it works.
These are in excellent shape too, I think I was rather lucky that somebody else didn't spot these. I here they are quite collectible. I know they are not worth hundreds or anything but I think I bought them right.
I paid more for shipping I think! No, really, I think I paid about $25 for the pair. I don't have the equipment to make measurements so I was thinking of building one of the Frugal Horn designs for the F103 and hope it works.
These are in excellent shape too, I think I was rather lucky that somebody else didn't spot these. I here they are quite collectible. I know they are not worth hundreds or anything but I think I bought them right.
Attachments
Interesting, I just read your posts on the F103 and it's variants. These look like the F103 on the front but the back is like the 10F3, actually has the "10F3" on the back but definitely like the F103 with the "cyclops" eye in the middle. Any ideas why these appear to be a hybrid of the two?
Jeff
Jeff
Good ones have a nominal value of $75 USD.
The discolouration on your cones is the glue migrating from the surround. Before doing anything with them check to see if the surrounds are still attached at the cone.
As per one of those threads i linked i am currently enjoying a pair in Aiko. I have pictures in my camera.
dave
The numbers have to do both with who they were being OEMed for and the date of manufacture. They are the same. They kept using the same basket until 2000 ... ~ a 40 year amortization period.
Cal has a set of 10F3 in his Jimmys and i've had at least one pair thru here.
dave
I am looking at the plans for the Aiko, it appears that there is not much space immediately behind the driver. Did you have to do any modifications to the inside of the speaker chamber to accommodate the large basket on the 10F3? Or does it just barely fit?
Any other adjustments needed to the Aiko plans to make it work for this driver? What kind of F3 can I expect (at best) with this arrangement?
I have a KT88 SE amp I recently built that I think will power these pretty well. You think 18 watts, give or take 2, will work alright with this design?
Would you recommend any particular treatment to this driver other than adding damping material to the basket and magnet frame?
The cone appears to be well adhered to the cone but it is difficult to really tell without applying much pressure to it. If it does come apart what type of glue is best used to put something like this driver back together?
Bunch of questions, I think I will stop for now..........
Thanks,
Jeff
Any other adjustments needed to the Aiko plans to make it work for this driver? What kind of F3 can I expect (at best) with this arrangement?
I have a KT88 SE amp I recently built that I think will power these pretty well. You think 18 watts, give or take 2, will work alright with this design?
Would you recommend any particular treatment to this driver other than adding damping material to the basket and magnet frame?
The cone appears to be well adhered to the cone but it is difficult to really tell without applying much pressure to it. If it does come apart what type of glue is best used to put something like this driver back together?
Bunch of questions, I think I will stop for now..........
Thanks,
Jeff
I'm gonna post pictures in the other thread shortly, just need to edit them down to size. It shouldn't be a problem -- if you add the sB -- if you don't it could be a problem. In ours there is a magnet brace for the original driver that is getting in the way so it is a problem.
10 W should give adequate levels, as i said i'm currently using ~20 (PP EL34 triode/DynaMutt)
Mine (actually a clients that have been laying around for over a year) have the full treatment. I have 2 pair stashed, they will get the same treatment (but i may do a fancy colour -- i've yet to try red)
I just take a small flat blade screwdriver and see if i can lift the surround. Given the amount of discoloration i'd guess that if they are firmly attached they have already been fixed by the guy you bought them from. I use the same modpodge i use for cone pretreatment, white wood glue would do. I've posted the technique i've found works -- probably in one of the linked threads. I also have a text clipping stashed somewhere,
dave
10 W should give adequate levels, as i said i'm currently using ~20 (PP EL34 triode/DynaMutt)
Mine (actually a clients that have been laying around for over a year) have the full treatment. I have 2 pair stashed, they will get the same treatment (but i may do a fancy colour -- i've yet to try red)
I just take a small flat blade screwdriver and see if i can lift the surround. Given the amount of discoloration i'd guess that if they are firmly attached they have already been fixed by the guy you bought them from. I use the same modpodge i use for cone pretreatment, white wood glue would do. I've posted the technique i've found works -- probably in one of the linked threads. I also have a text clipping stashed somewhere,
dave
The dots you put around the edges of your treated drivers, is the material you use for this a trade secret?
I would like to paint the cone of these drivers, the discoloration is pretty ugly. Is there a kind of paint you would recommend? I would assume the surround material is left unpainted.
"sB", I am not sure I understand what you are referring to....is this the round thing that goes around the driver that adds more surface area to the front baffle?
I have seen quite a different variations in the shape of this round part, I was thinking of doing something a bit more flashy. Is there a particular shape of this part that you find actually improves the sound? I was thinking of doing some kind of sunburst pattern but I am leary that it might degrade the sound quality....do you think this really considerably changes the quality of the sound?
Last question for tonight....the inside of the Aiko, did you use any sort of stuffing, wool, felt, or other material and is so how and where did you place the material?
Sorry for the barrage of questions....these are really a new design for me and I am not very well read on these type of enclosures. I think I will start reading some of the info on Frugal-Horns website.
Thanks again,
Jeff
I would like to paint the cone of these drivers, the discoloration is pretty ugly. Is there a kind of paint you would recommend? I would assume the surround material is left unpainted.
"sB", I am not sure I understand what you are referring to....is this the round thing that goes around the driver that adds more surface area to the front baffle?
I have seen quite a different variations in the shape of this round part, I was thinking of doing something a bit more flashy. Is there a particular shape of this part that you find actually improves the sound? I was thinking of doing some kind of sunburst pattern but I am leary that it might degrade the sound quality....do you think this really considerably changes the quality of the sound?
Last question for tonight....the inside of the Aiko, did you use any sort of stuffing, wool, felt, or other material and is so how and where did you place the material?
Sorry for the barrage of questions....these are really a new design for me and I am not very well read on these type of enclosures. I think I will start reading some of the info on Frugal-Horns website.
Thanks again,
Jeff
Not at all... lots of how to in many threads. Search for EnABL in the titles. A good place to start is the FE126 thread,
I almost invariably pre-treat the driver with modgepodge (aka puzzlecoat). I use food colouring (or ink for black) to colour the modpodge. A black, brown or dark blue or purple are probably best to hide the discolouration, it is never completely opaque.
Very nice Dave! They are beautiful, did you build them your self?
I went around the edges of the cone and did what you said, it appears to be well attached on both.
Do you sell the center cone for this pair of speakers? I am unsure I would be able to install them myself without damaging them. I think I will start with an Enable treatment and color change and go from there. Thanks for the recommendations.
Jeff
I went around the edges of the cone and did what you said, it appears to be well attached on both.
Do you sell the center cone for this pair of speakers? I am unsure I would be able to install them myself without damaging them. I think I will start with an Enable treatment and color change and go from there. Thanks for the recommendations.
Jeff
no, he has a symbiot for that
"present"
yes - just some careful scalpel work (should be no problem for you) to circumcise the dust-cap, and the wooden phase plugs are held in place on the magnetic pole piece via embedded woodscrews
Believe it or not, real circumcision is almost foolproof with the new Plastibell technique. We don't do free hand circumcisions any more, at least not anybody I know.
In either case, the design and carrythrough of the Aiko is beautiful. I am heading down to the local hardware store to see if they have any 5/8" cabinet grade plywood today. I was always wanting to build a pair of the Sachiko's and actually picked up a pair of 167E's not too long ago. Then I found out these won't really work in the Sachiko. This Aiko is much smaller, I think a better place to start for my first horn cab like this. I will post some pics once I get them finished. I have the rest of the week off so maybe pretty soon, possibly the weekend I might have these built. We'll see. Thanks again for the info.
Jeff
In either case, the design and carrythrough of the Aiko is beautiful. I am heading down to the local hardware store to see if they have any 5/8" cabinet grade plywood today. I was always wanting to build a pair of the Sachiko's and actually picked up a pair of 167E's not too long ago. Then I found out these won't really work in the Sachiko. This Aiko is much smaller, I think a better place to start for my first horn cab like this. I will post some pics once I get them finished. I have the rest of the week off so maybe pretty soon, possibly the weekend I might have these built. We'll see. Thanks again for the info.
Jeff
well, I was only using one of several terms that have been used to describe the removable of the paper dust cap another is "dust-cap ectomy" but somehow that brings to mind lobotomy, which some folks might suggest I've already had
anyways
best of luck - keep us posted
hi jmillerdoc,
you bought those from me. At first someone wanted them here at diy, but never paid, so I put them on ebay. One thing about those drivers is they were never used so far, so they are not even broken in. They have nice top end, but lack lower fr response. They will balance out with use. However, I would never expect much bass from such a small driver. Personally I would not use them fullrange, only with woofer. Dave has nice little speaker with woofer on the side, nice lean small footprint, that's what I would recommend. Is it tysen?
Good luck,
ed
you bought those from me. At first someone wanted them here at diy, but never paid, so I put them on ebay. One thing about those drivers is they were never used so far, so they are not even broken in. They have nice top end, but lack lower fr response. They will balance out with use. However, I would never expect much bass from such a small driver. Personally I would not use them fullrange, only with woofer. Dave has nice little speaker with woofer on the side, nice lean small footprint, that's what I would recommend. Is it tysen?
Good luck,
ed
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