I'll buy one if I could find a way to increase the input signal voltage without buying a new preamp.
Ray
Ray
I tried looking into the issue, but they only write "Linear Optimum Gain Volume Circuitry", which doesn't tell us anything about the level of gain...
If this means that it gives you more than 15dB, you should be just fine.
TECHNOLOGY | ONKYO Asia and Oceania Website
TECHNOLOGY | ONKYO Asia and Oceania Website
This is an interesting thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17734984#post17734984
Suggest that it can go up to 7V, which would be great if you have efficient speakers, but if not then you should probably look for an amp with gain.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17734984#post17734984
Suggest that it can go up to 7V, which would be great if you have efficient speakers, but if not then you should probably look for an amp with gain.
Hi Christian,
I am curious what PCB CAD program is used to create such realistic looking PCB layouts, it looks really good!
Cheers Michael
I use the program called pcb (not very smart name) from gEDA. It is free and open source and runs great on linux.
Website: gEDA Project's Homepage
The learning curve is quite steep, but when you get the hang of it, its a great tool.
Website: gEDA Project's Homepage
The learning curve is quite steep, but when you get the hang of it, its a great tool.
I don't even know how much output my OPPO BDP-83 Blu-ray Player has;
hopefully, it will be enough?
I guess they expect you o dig to find the answer.
F4
Trying to get something close to the Dodd 15 watt battery tube Amp.
Required for the Super V speaker. Maybe the F3, but I heard the F4 was
better. I can't make a real decision, unless I hear both with the speaker.
Ray
Trying to get something close to the Dodd 15 watt battery tube Amp.
Required for the Super V speaker. Maybe the F3, but I heard the F4 was
better. I can't make a real decision, unless I hear both with the speaker.
Ray
I already have the F5 PCB. I tried to get yours, but you were sold out so I went on E-bay. I think I'll get your F4 and a F3, and try them all. I needed to get two mono blocks with four 10" X 6" Heat Sinks. I already have the chassis and transformers. Your PS PCB were for stereo, so I had to get single ones elsewhere. If I can I'll put all three in the cabinets. The boards and components aren't that expensive. The power supply and the rest of it are all the same. I sure want the F4 to work. What do you think?
Ray
Ray
I sure would like to order some F4's. Do you think this project would work:
"I already have the F5 PCB. I tried to get yours, but you were sold out so I went on E-bay. I think I'll get your F4 and a F3, and try them all. I needed to get two mono blocks with four 10" X 6" Heat Sinks. I already have the chassis and transformers. Your PS PCB were for stereo, so I had to get single ones elsewhere. If I can, I'll put all three in the cabinets. The boards and components aren't that expensive. The power supply and the rest of it are all the same. I sure want the F4 to work. What do you think?"
Ray
It sounds like a great plan, but I can't really see the problem. 😉
BTW, you can use one psu board per monoblock - more capacitance is better. 😀
BTW, you can use one psu board per monoblock - more capacitance is better. 😀
So rotary switches will work for changing the power supply to F3, F4, or F5 with all the outputs mounted on the heat sinks, and then selecting where the
input goes to and output comes from to either F3, F4, or F5.
Ray
Oh I forgot that you wanted everything in one box... it is perfectly doable, but it might not be worth the extra complexity. You need to switch supplies, inputs and outputs. And the F3 psu is not compatible with F4 and F5.
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