I just made some adjustments to the Opus page.
I am now building the Opus with Vishay/OSCON caps in place of the Panasonic FKs.
I lowered the module price a bit to adjust for changes in part costs.
I also added a kit option at $55; it's all the same stuff you get in the complete module, including mounting hardware, just not put together.
I am now building the Opus with Vishay/OSCON caps in place of the Panasonic FKs.
I lowered the module price a bit to adjust for changes in part costs.
I also added a kit option at $55; it's all the same stuff you get in the complete module, including mounting hardware, just not put together.
I also added a kit option at $55; it's all the same stuff you get in the complete module, including mounting hardware, just not put together.
darn it! and I just got assembled Opus! Kit is what I wanted. ('cause I'm cheap) That's OK though, 'cause I'm also seriously short on time 😀
the kit is a nice deal though! Thanks again Brian!
My guess is its your shared supplies.
Also the noise may be normally common mode, and just using a BAL/SE converter may help as well.
Thank Russ for your advice. The only setup that seems to be ok is with separated ps for dacs (no difference separating analogic and digital) and receiver.
I've got 2 questions about OTTO and Opus.
My Opus is connected to USB and SPDIF, OTTO will allow to switch from the 2 sources.
Does it require a push button or an On/Off switch .
Opus and Otto are feeded with +/- 6.5V. Is it enough ? OTTO relays are 5V...
Thanks to Russ and Brian
My Opus is connected to USB and SPDIF, OTTO will allow to switch from the 2 sources.
Does it require a push button or an On/Off switch .
Opus and Otto are feeded with +/- 6.5V. Is it enough ? OTTO relays are 5V...
Thanks to Russ and Brian
Neither the Opus nor the OTTO require -V. The Opus on-board regs are 3.3V for VD and 5V for VA. You therefore need 6.5 or more for Opus VA, but 5V will be fine for VD.
OTTO should get 5V. It requires an on/off switch, or some sort of digital logic to switch it.
OTTO should get 5V. It requires an on/off switch, or some sort of digital logic to switch it.
Neither the Opus nor the OTTO require -V. The Opus on-board regs are 3.3V for VD and 5V for VA. You therefore need 6.5 or more for Opus VA, but 5V will be fine for VD.
OTTO should get 5V. It requires an on/off switch, or some sort of digital logic to switch it.
Thank you for your answers Brian.
An on/off switch is Ok for switching operation, thanks !
My mistake, I've adjusted 6.5v per rail for Opus and OTTO.
I've got only one LCDPS PSU, how could I reduce existing 6.5v to 5v for OTTO ?
There are a range of choices here.
Power VA with 6.5V. Power VD and OTTO with 5V.
Power VA and VD with 6.5V and power OTTO with 5V.
OTTO (relay coil) can take higher voltages if it makes life easier for you, up to 7.5V I believe.
Power VA with 6.5V. Power VD and OTTO with 5V.
Power VA and VD with 6.5V and power OTTO with 5V.
OTTO (relay coil) can take higher voltages if it makes life easier for you, up to 7.5V I believe.
I've forgotten that LCDPS PSU offers two positive chanels. 
So as you've mentioned, I'll use this configuration :
- one chanel at 6.5V for Opus and SPDIF I/O
- second chanel for Otto at 5V.
Are 6.5V correct for feeding Opus and SPDIF or more voltage is preferable ?
Thanks 😉

So as you've mentioned, I'll use this configuration :
- one chanel at 6.5V for Opus and SPDIF I/O
- second chanel for Otto at 5V.
Are 6.5V correct for feeding Opus and SPDIF or more voltage is preferable ?
Thanks 😉
Brian,
thinking about making up some shunt supplies for my opus. Its been sitting there running of USB power for ages so I reckon its about time it got a nice supply.
Could you tell me the current draw for VA, VD on the opus, and while you're at it, the current draw for an IVY and a metronome too?
Many thanks......
Fran
thinking about making up some shunt supplies for my opus. Its been sitting there running of USB power for ages so I reckon its about time it got a nice supply.
Could you tell me the current draw for VA, VD on the opus, and while you're at it, the current draw for an IVY and a metronome too?
Many thanks......
Fran
For the metronome jumper switch settings, aside from the automute function that should be open or closed, should the other 3 jumper settings ( that is open be closed ) as well? What purpose do they serve since they have no markings on the side?
Someone else's schematics.
Picasa Web Albums - Evan - dacpics
Someone else's schematics.
Picasa Web Albums - Evan - dacpics
Brian,
I connected two Opus DAC in recommended dual differential hardware setup according to schematic contained in figure 27 on WM8740 datasheet PD, Rev 4.3 August 2009 page 25.
Instead of U3-A/U4-A, I connected two Lundhal LL1660 AM PP in configuration 2.25+2.25:4 and each trafos to Raleigh Audio extreme active output stage V.2.4.2 through Combo Input Board V.2.1, all in balanced differential mode. The volume control is the Welborne Labs remote controlled stepped attenuator also in balanced mode, and the capacitors on the output stage are audionote copper foil paper in oil.
The result is “STUNNING”. The music through the DAC form foobar2000 or CD is real analogue with punch and clean detail. A configuration to compete with my TNT + Tangent + Lyra Helikon, with more clean details for DAC.
Thnks&Rgrds for your affordable and quality modules.
jfibla
I connected two Opus DAC in recommended dual differential hardware setup according to schematic contained in figure 27 on WM8740 datasheet PD, Rev 4.3 August 2009 page 25.
Instead of U3-A/U4-A, I connected two Lundhal LL1660 AM PP in configuration 2.25+2.25:4 and each trafos to Raleigh Audio extreme active output stage V.2.4.2 through Combo Input Board V.2.1, all in balanced differential mode. The volume control is the Welborne Labs remote controlled stepped attenuator also in balanced mode, and the capacitors on the output stage are audionote copper foil paper in oil.
The result is “STUNNING”. The music through the DAC form foobar2000 or CD is real analogue with punch and clean detail. A configuration to compete with my TNT + Tangent + Lyra Helikon, with more clean details for DAC.
Thnks&Rgrds for your affordable and quality modules.
jfibla
Dual mono mode
Hi I really have a problem here. 🙁 All the switch settings are done correct. Mode for left channel is low an d right is high. I use one board for left and the other for right. 😕
I have the 47 ohm in series with the ouput and then an Silk Sta 522 Volume trafo in balanced mode. After that I use Moxamps ( discret opamp) . I use 4 of them after the Silk to get the balanced and Rca out. Evrything here is correct by no doubt.
My problem is that the signal out is mono ----no stereo effect at all. The Right channel is in the middel and so is the left. Signals out of fase can almost not be heard .
What have I done wrong ???????
Hi I really have a problem here. 🙁 All the switch settings are done correct. Mode for left channel is low an d right is high. I use one board for left and the other for right. 😕
I have the 47 ohm in series with the ouput and then an Silk Sta 522 Volume trafo in balanced mode. After that I use Moxamps ( discret opamp) . I use 4 of them after the Silk to get the balanced and Rca out. Evrything here is correct by no doubt.
My problem is that the signal out is mono ----no stereo effect at all. The Right channel is in the middel and so is the left. Signals out of fase can almost not be heard .
What have I done wrong ???????
My guess is either your switch settings are wrong, or the wiring of the outputs from the DAC module. Could you post a pic of the wiring?
My guess is either your switch settings are wrong, or the wiring of the outputs from the DAC module. Could you post a pic of the wiring?
I have studied the pictures other have posted and I am sure evrything is ok.
Output terminal Left - and right + are together, left +and right - those are for left.
Left - and right + are together ,left + and right - for the right channel.
Left mode is low ( - or to the left)
Right mode is high ( + or to the right )
Maybe I should try one board for stereo use.
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Where are you situated in DK?
If not too far, we could get together some afternoon, and I could take a look at it.
A fresh pair of eyes often reveals an error.
Magura 🙂
If not too far, we could get together some afternoon, and I could take a look at it.
A fresh pair of eyes often reveals an error.
Magura 🙂
Where are you situated in DK?
If not too far, we could get together some afternoon, and I could take a look at it.
A fresh pair of eyes often reveals an error.
Magura 🙂
Thank you very much. Very nice of you. I have just located the fault. It was at the balanced output for the switch.
I live in Gentofte so it is more than a trip. 😉 I am a member of Copenhagen HiFi club.
Yeah, that's a bit far to travel, at least for a cup of coffee 😉
You should however consider popping by for this:
www.class-a-labs.com/News-Events
Rumor has it, that it will be a rather international event.
Magura 🙂
You should however consider popping by for this:
www.class-a-labs.com/News-Events
Rumor has it, that it will be a rather international event.
Magura 🙂
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