Filament CCS for DHTs with automatic adjustment

I'm working with this project for about 2 years and finally it's working without any compromise:smash:

Here's some pictures and test results.

I'll talk about it in detail if anyone has further interest.

微信图片_20231204160352.jpg

There's two PCBs in one set. One provides power for OPAMPs, measures the voltage and current, then sets the current. The other one has a voltage regulator and a controlled CCS.


300B-98.jpg

This is the starting voltage curve when powering an 300B-98

NOISE.jpg

Here's the noise when fully stabled. A 200KHz LPF is applied with Math functions of my osciliscope.
With Cosmos ADC, the measured noise goes lower to about 50μVrms.
微信图片_20231204161837.jpg

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How to mount Alpine PDX-F4 amp and where to find service manual

I just picked up an Alpine PDX-F4 amp in very nice cosmetic condition but it did not come with any mounting hardware and I assume those parts are no longer available. I opened the amp up to see of there were any mounting bosses under the bottom plate but found none. Does anyone know how these were originally mounted? Any suggestions on how to mount one now? I am sure i can figure out something but if there is a known solution, that will certianly make this easier.

Kenwood Basic M2 Upgrade with DRM Audio

Only two questions, opinions are welcome.
Should I replace the carbon film resistors with metal film 1%. (Over time the Carbon film can get out of tolerance and can be noisy)
Some of the electro capacitors in the kit have IMO way to high of a voltage value for the voltage applied. Parts of the circuit that have less than 10 volts on it used 10v capacitors, (Factory). The replacements have a value of 100 volts. I can see going to maybe 16 volts but 100 is a bit much.
Should I use caps that are closer to the original value? The amp has worked for 30+ years.

I have the time to sit at the bench, don't mind the work.

Kenwood KA-7300 No Power up No relay click

I have a second Kenwood KA-7300 that's been sitting for a couple of years with a "no power up" status and decided to have look at it yesterday. When turned on with a DBT it checks ok. Rail voltages are good at 50v +/- at PS (pin 3 and 4) through to Pwr. amps. Relay circuit voltages check ok as well. The relay and its transistor trigger are both good. Voltage on PS at pin 19 & 20 is 70mv. Voltage at Pin's 6 and 2 of TA-80W also read 50v. Pin 5 of TA-80W is 0v. Not sure if the Trio power packs are shot or if its something else.

Crossover design - average impedance or?

Quick question....

Designing a 2 way speaker and this is one of my first "passive" designs (I have always done active setups).

I have measured my tweeter using DATS - which reports Re = 2.56, Fs = 654.7

I am planning to cross this at Fs * 2 (about 1200hz).

But I noticed that at exactly 1,200 hz, the impedance of this tweeter is actually around 3.3 ohm.

So here is my question: when designing a passive crossover, do we stick to the "average impedance" reported by DATS (in my case, 2.56 ohms), or is it better to do the component calculations based on the 3.3 ohm figure (which IS what the actual impedance will be at that xover point).

I plan on employing a 2nd order LR filter, if that matters.

-Dean

For Sale ~Glassphone~ Preamp/SRPP+

I recently completed a preamp, complete with headphone amp. It sports 3 inputs and 2 outputs, plus a pass-through set of RCA jacks. I have built this from a combination GlassWare Audio SRPP+ board and Pete Millet headphone amp, using the SRP1 aka Nu-Tube by Korg. Also, it made sense to spare no cost for the power supply in this case, and I chose the GlassWare Audio PS-21 for that. This means that the preamp and headphone amp are on separate 12 volt supplies, and that the high voltage supply is of course separate from those. I can go into more detail for those who are interested. I will say that ASR did test the SRPP+ circuit (for headphone, not preamp, but using the same 12AU7 tubes), and found this to be some of the best quality around. It is capable of 20 volts of output, but in this case, it is used as a preamp, and I suspect that no more than 2 volts would be used to supply the power amp. >>>>>>> Ummm, oh yah, the price started at $2,200 + shipping, but that will be negotiable.<<<<<<<<<<

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THD measure with Soundcard and arta on LM3886 composite Amp

Hi all,
I make a own 3886 composite amp PCB.
All runs and looks ok.
Now I want to make a thd measurement with Soundcard....
I see with arta , good values and if I move a bit the cables around ...
A bit left to right moving on desk , the thd varies... So I play a bit we're to make the resistor connection for reduce level 1/10 to the soundcard input on PCB postion or direct on R load 4 Ohm... All that make a different thD.
It is spooky, make the speaker cable to R 4 Ohm a bit more to left or right ...THD
Varies....I make on all cables shield,but I see 3 cm unshield to connect to LS +- make a difference....
I have actually thd from 0.00086 to 0.0044 while moving cables on my desk here....while arta the runs 1 khz.

I mean ,I changed the cable positions on desk ,not the connection.
Hope you understand what I mean.

Any tips how to make a good stable measurement with Soundcard .
All cables , line in ,power , line out has a shield to one point .gnd PSU..
Shield is only in one direction connected.

Thoughts on 2SD2390/2SB1560?

Got hands on some new 2SD2390/2SB1560's, Gotta say they are very nice Darlington BJT's for power amps. But looking for potential do's and dont's. I have 7 pairs for my 7.1 amp project and plan to clock the surround channels at 100w. Sub amp still in the works with 3 pairs of 2SC5200's and 2SA1943's. Also would the 2SC4793 make a good VAS for a 450ish watt amp?

Atoll AM 100 broken

Good afternoon,

I own an Atoll AM100 amplifier (built around 2004), with which I am very satisfied. Yesterday I must have come to the speaker output while handling the ground cable of the phono amplifier. After that there was a loud noise from the loudspeaker and then there was silence.
The LED is still on and the relay is energized, but no sound comes out. The transistor in front of the relay gets very hot. The rest stays cold. What could have been broken?
Can the power stage transistors IRFP150 or IRFP9140N be broken? How can I measure this?

Thanks for your help.

In search of low distortion omnidirectional microphones for DIYers

...to be continued… (live article)
1734944582850.png

  • Nearfield testing continued​
  • B&K 4191/2669 compared to B&K 4133/2639​
  • Implications for HF, MF and LF testing and loudspeaker design​

GOAL:
To find a moderate cost microphone that's capable of measuring the lowest distortion drivers, in an indoor environment.

PROBLEM:
Measuring loudspeaker drivers in an indoor environment can be a challenge, with limited space and tools that diyAudio'ers have at our disposal. In this small study I will endeavour to see how well one can measure drivers, in box, not a large IEC baffle, without an anechoic chamber, or laboratory grade instrumentation.

SUMMARY:
Scroll to the bottom of this post.

Interested? Let's proceed. As usual, this a collaboration with other diyAudio users. Thanks in advance to @Hörnli,@5th element and @DcibeL for their direction and feedback. Special thanks to @IamJF for your patient replies and professional advice. As usual, all errors are mine and mine alone. I welcome any queries, feedback and contribution.

METHOD:
To start I chose to look at a 6.5” midwoofer, the PTT6.5W04 the first driver released from Purifi's catalogue. As a 2021 release, there may be a few in the field, so it can serve as a kind of reference for a recently released and available driver.
Here's the frequency response, along with H2 and H3, from Purifi's datasheet

1714021214006.png


Comment: Being a 4 ohm driver, the SPL is between 87-91dB through much of the range. As usual, because the driver is not mounted in an enclosure (standard procedure for manufacturers) there's a roll off below 100Hz. In practice, the bass response is determined by the T/S parameters and the enclosure design.

In the first instance, we trace these curves with an auto tracing program, and export into a measurement viewer, so we can work directly with the numbers:
1714791033050.png


In the original datasheet, the 2nd and 3rd harmonics are obscured by the Text Box in the lower left, and the 3rd harmonic (H3) falls below 0dB at 6KHz. Hence, the harmonic data is accurate only between ~60Hz and ~6KHz.

I use software to calculate H2 and H3 in relative terms, compared to the fundamental, between 60Hz and 6KHz:
1714791576539.png

Comment: Between 100H to 3.5KHz, H2 is <-60dB, between 200Hz and 3 KHz and H3 ~-70dB.

There are numerous 3rd parties who have reviewed/taken measurements of this driver. Some have been more successful in measuring H2 and H3 eg. Erin's Audio Corner and HifiCompass. Others have not been as successful*

*In this measurement, the microphone is 10cm from the driver, and thus tasked with observing up to 121dB. The microphone's own distortion is 1% at 126dB.

With thanks to @IamJF, it has been shown that a microphones have their own distortion profile . With such a wide variance in maximum SPL and distortion ratings by different manufacturer's, DIYers and enthusiasts might be left wondering "What microphone can give me an honest harmonic distortion assessment of a driver?"

PART A)
For my study, I measure the PTT6.5W04 mounted in a 14L enclosure of dimensions ^40x20x30cm (LxWxD), with a drive level of 2.83V.

For far field measurements, I place the microphone 40cm from the baffle. Using gating of 10ms, reasonably accurate frequency response information can be taken from ~ 600Hz and above. To calculate the 1m SPL, subtract 8dB.

The graph below shows the readings from 4 microphones:
MiniDSP Umik-1 (2013 model)
Sonarworks Xref20 (2015 model)
Earthworks M23 (2024 model)
Sennheiser MD42 (?model year- purchased second hand)


1714638899691.png

Comment: All microphones show similar responses up to about 5KHz, with larger differences starting to show up above, notably Umik-1.

Here is the 2nd harmonic measurement, for each microphone.
1714752564458.png

Comment: There are differences of up to 10dB between microphones in measurement of the 2nd harmonic when observing 98-101dB
The leading contender is the S-mic


The third harmonic for 4 microphones:
1714752645433.png

Comment: There are minimal differences between the microphones in measurement of the 3rd harmonic when observing 98-101 dB

Now we take measurements taken with the microphones in the near field (1cm) to look at low frequency response:

1714786005805.png



1714786103554.png

Comment: There is a difference of 5-10dB between the microphones in measurement of the 2nd harmonic when observing 110-116 dB in the region 50Hz to 300Hz.

1714786113970.png

Comment: There is a difference of up to 6dB in between the microphones in measurement of the 3rd harmonic when observing 110-116dB (between 50Hz and 200Hz) The leading contender is the S-mic (cyan)

For a comparison to Purifi's datasheet, I split the graph into 2 parts- the near field for a look at the bass to lower mids…

1714796352731.png



Now I measured with the microphone that shows the most promise between my samples of MiniDSP Umik-1, Sonarworks Xref20, Earthworks M23 (2024 model), and Sennheiser MD42.

Here is the measured indoors at a mic distance of 1cm with a Sennheiser MD42 (“S-mic”)
1714796571426.png

Above 200Hz, there is closer agreement with Purifi's datasheet: H2 is around ~-60dB. But H3 is still ~-60dB.
Above 200Hz, the effects of the woofer being in a box (with a passive radiator) the differences are still apparent. It's unclear whether this difference can be reconciled.

Addit:
Here is my sample of the PTT6.5X measured at distance of 1cm with a Line Audio Omni1 microphone (please ignore the title- this is mislabelled)

1716960133464.png

Unfortunately, the Omni1 is NOT able to characterise the low distortion of the PTT6.5XNFA when measuring at 1cm.
It's observed H2 and H3 is ~10dB higher than the Sennheiser MD42.


Now for between 600Hz to 6KHz, measured at 40cm. Recall the datasheet:
1714796388579.png


Here the PTT6.5X04NFA as measured by Sennheiser MD42 "S-mic" @ 40cm:
1714796762929.png


as observed by Line Audio Omni1 electret condenser microphone @ 40cm:
1716959376695.png



(partial) SUCESSS!
When measuring at 40cm in an indoor environment, when using the Line Audio Omni1 or Sennheiser MD42 microphones, there is a close match to Purifi's published datasheets. These microphones are able to characterise H2 of less than -60dB and H3 of less than -70dB between 600Hz and 6KHz.

My miniDSP UMIK-1 (2013 release), Sonarworks Xref20v4 (2015 release), and Earthworks M23 (2024 release) do well with frequency response measurements, but were not able to characterise H2 of less than -60dB and H3 of less than -70dB.

This seems consistent with other microphones studies:
1) https://www.a4eaudio.com/miscellaneous-studies/a-comparison-of-some-pre-amps-and-microphones

2) https://www.mtg-designs.com/tips-tricks-tests/measurement-mic-tests

Appendix-
System setup
PC: MeLE Quieter 3C silent PC.
OS: Windows 11 Pro
Audio Interface: Focusrite 2i2(3rd Gen)
Amplifier: Hypex UcD400MP​

1717939103762.png


1717939399969.png




Disclosure Statement
There are no conflicts of interest regarding this thread. The author has no relevant or material financial interests that relate to the study described in this thread. Additionally, the author has not received any financial support, grants, or sponsorship from any individual or corporate entities.


EDITS:
18/09/24: Disclosure statement added
17/09/24: Purifi
PTT8.0X08NAA tested- see post starting post #190
13/09/24: Microphone selection requirements- see post #187

08/10/24: Updated to
REW 5.40b46 - corrected rising noise floor and therefore REW's improved ability to measure higher order harmonics. See post 144 (REW 5.40b46) compared to post 132 (REW 5.3) REW compared to STEPS,
09/06/24: System set up measured
29/05/24: measurements by
Line Audio Omni1 microphone added. Moved appendix to post #56 (This post has limit 20 images)
22/05/24 : Added a video about how to take measurements by our own @1audio A nice little primer in video form, suitable for people relatively new to taking measurements. If you've been struggling or stuck, this is a
great introductory lecture into taking measurements
04/05/24 : Big clean up, improved precision in tracing Purifi's datasheet (previously 1/12 smoothing, now 1/48 parts per octave without smoothing), separated near field and far field measurements, corrected erroneous graphs, moved explanations to Appendix, added 4th microphone- Sennheiser MD42, nicknamed “s-mic"

Tell me "all" about smallhorn 1

it is a 576mm cube ? What size and parameter driver does it like? What size, shape and orientation is its throat opening? What is its usable bandwidth? - Where does the first FR dip occur? Is there a hornresp model?- I can barely move my arms anymore - but it looks simple enough to try.

(It reminds me of PWK's "LB76")

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For Sale 12AX7 Phonostage - EAR834P Clone

I built this a couple years ago. It works well, and includes NOS Mullard 12ax7 tubes. Selling because it's a little too warm for my current system.

Asking SOLD

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Simple AB2 PP-amplifier with OP-amp driver

Main characteristics:

- triode connected PP-output stage driven by OP-amp. (NE5532)
- max. output power 20 W with 5k OPT and 18 W with 6.6k OPT
- video output pentodes (6P15P) used because those require low bias- and drive voltage
- fixed bias arranged by means of constant voltage sources at the cathodes to make current drive (AB2) possible

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Searching for a STURDY tube amp chassis in western Europe

Hello guys

Anyone here who could recommend a source of sturdy tube amp chassis in western Europe?

I have gathered most components for a project I have in mind, a stereo GU50 parallel SE amplifier

The mains transformer is heavy as hell, like 4kg or something, and the two toroid output transformers are also near 2kg each... add the rest, and I'm not sure a standard aluminum chassis would do

Any recommandations welcome 🙂

Technics SU-3600 DC output unbalance issue after blown transistor in diff amp

Hello guys...

Some time ago I posted a thread about my SU-3600 having noise... it was fixed thanks to helpful people as always here.

It has worked without issues for some time, until it started emitting pops and clacks and then I finally decided to stop using it and start finding the issue.

Last test I made burned the fuse with a 1kHz test signal and volume near first quarter, on 8 ohm dummy load, several times.

I replaced the capacitors with panasonic 105C as some of them had started leaking or were reading large esr, cleaned the boards with isopropyl as they had a lot of old flux (especially the power amp boards), and replaced trimmers as they were really oxidized...

Right channel adjusts correctly and I'm able to adjust ICQ and DC imbalance as stated by the manual, but this is not the case for left channel.

I found that D302 was shorted and TR304 dead (tested open, reads like a capacitor between C and E) - replaced TR302 and TR304 with paired 2SC733 (closest match I had at hand and same Hfe as TR302) and D302/D304 with 1N4007 I had at hand. ICQ adjusts fine, but VR302 has no effect on the imbalance voltage, it stays at 2mV or so, and I'm pretty sure this is the main reason the fuse blows (the amp is not stable anymore I would say)

Looking at the schematic and trying to find the reason VR302 has no effect, without success...

Maybe some people here would be able to help me direct my efforts?

I have all the equipment needed, but I'm not familiar enough with amplifier design to find the issue without some guidance... I know this place is filled with a lot of nice people ready to help, so I take the chance 🙂 Thanks in advance!

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3-Way Speaker with separate enclosures - help please

Ok so I have some now out of production drivers I was going to build a two-way out of...

Woofer

Tweeter

but when I began modeling in winisd I discovered the woofer power handling below 100hz was very low. So I am toying with the idea of using it as a midrange doing a 3-way inspired by one of my all time favorite designs - the Kef Reference 105.2 , with each driver having its own separate enclosure stacked on each other.

I measured the t/s parameters for the dynavox and got different values that the ones posted online. Any way my modeling has me estimating a 0.25ft3 sealed enclosure for the mid. I am considering using the 12" Dayton designer series paper woofer with a 1.9ft3 ported cabinet tuned to 30hz for an f3 of roughly 38hz (that may change if the dayton measures differently on my DATS).

I have a question regarding woofer and midrange sensitivity - I have read for 3-ways you want your woofer to be 3db more sensitive than your midrange. Is that still true with separate enclosures? The Dayton woofer which has a 91db rating, and my mid is roughly 88 so that would work perfectly if that still applies.

Thanks!

Re-purpose five and seven channel amps?

Has anyone (besides me) thought to remove or bypass the dolby and DSP pre-amplifiers in a surround sound receiver and instead use the power amplifiers with active crossovers? I’ve noticed that I can buy good quality dolby digital surround sound 5.1 and 7.1 receivers for really cheap, … really . cheap. Currently I only use them for stereo, ignoring 3-5 100W channels, it would be nice to put the robust power supplies and amplifiers of significant output to good use.

So before I get to buying a stack of Sony receivers, are there receivers that would be easier to modify? I have a Sony STR-DG510 that seems perfect for modifying because it’s easy to see where the computers control everything and where they can be removed from the circuitry.

I realize this is starting with mid-fi at best, but it can be quite good if the noisy digital parts are removed and the power supply is modded.

Scanspeak 18M/8631T00 midrange

Dear diyAudio readers,

I am selling a pair of Scan-speak Revelator 18M/8631T00 midrange drivers. They have been used once and only for testing. Overall they are like brand new, minor scratches inside mounting holes because of the screws.

Price is 300eur/pair (retail is around 450eur/pair)

I can ship worldwide, however would prefer Europe.

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A question about schematic reading

Well I was trying to read a schematic that shows not only the electronic diagrams but also the pcb itself, the pcb has two sides (I guess) because the side that is shown was labelled as “component side” but the problem is that in the component side shows the traces that I found on the other side of the board and on the component side all the board was covered with musk. Is there any traces that was hidden under the musk (in the real component side) or all the traces of the board was only on the other side and the schematic show’s it like “a glass view” so that you have visual of the two sides simultaneously? Sorry if the question is silly but I’m new to all this 🙂

Panzerholtz source for speaker cabinets in the US?

Hi
I'm looking at a pricing exercise of 'densified' wood for a speaker build here in the US.
One manufacturer is Richlite that makes a material from recycled cardboard/paper and resin.
(I can estimate the cost per sq ft )

Panzerholtz has been around, but unobtanium in the US ... saw a video from an audio show from this year where a speaker manufacturer had Panzerholtz baffles and said he had a source in the South East due to their use in auto racing.

Does anyone know of such a source?

Would love to see a comparison between Richlite, Panzerholtz and other 'densified' materials.

Thx.

VISCH AMP 3.5.1

1-PRINT4.png


After 45 years of faithful service, my amplifier, based on the Wireless World April 1975 circuit, was a little underpowered for the obtained Quad ESL's I was able to repair. Building a proven concept was the way to go as it was 40 years ago when I had something done with audio amps.
Simon, whom I worked with 45 years ago at Audioscript (importer of Luxman and Stax products), reacted on my question concerning ESL's and the Honey Badger.

Talking about the past brought back nostalgic audio design thoughts and I wondered what might be possible with modern tools. What was the full potential of that 1975 design when fully optimized? The class AB stages of today are not significantly different from those 50 years ago, most distortion generated in class AB amplifiers is still due to the output stage. That old circuit still might improve the distortion figures and I was wondering what was possible by using a simulator. Goal was to build an amplifier with the lowest possible harmonic distortion, purely out of academic interest and fun.

The use of MicroCap turned out to be of great value to stability- and low distortion-design possibilities, twiddling a circuit made so easy.

The results were better than expected, the optimized output circuit measured -95dB THD at 50W/8Ohm, so by applying overall feedback, THD values of -125dB or better were possible. Below, the distortion residue of the OPS at 50W/8Ohm, is shown. Quiescent current is 100mA.

2-OPS10-50W-dist.jpg


With these figures the distortion limiting factor shifted from the power stage towards the front and a lower distortion LTP/VAS design was necessary.
That completely derailed into a 5 years amplifier- and distortion-analyzer- design -effort with the following results:


AMPLIFIER SPECIFICATIONS:

Gain: 29dB.
Power: 100W - 8Ohm, 200W - 4Ohm, 400W - 2Ohm.
Full power bandwidth: - 50kHz - 2Ohm.
Output impedance: - <1mOhm DC - 100kHz, in series with the 1uH output inductor.
Over-current protection: The momentary dissipation of the output transistors is restricted to 120W/transistor.

Distortion THD:

1kHz, 20V, 8 Ohm: -139dB. = analyzer limit
1kHz, 20V, 4 Ohm: -125dB.
10kHz, 20V, 8 Ohm: -120dB. = analyzer limit
10kHz, 20V, 4 Ohm: -111dB.

Due to power supply limitations testing with a 2Ohm load was not done, it is also not that relevant when using Quad ESL63’s.


3-20V-4R-1kHz.png

1KHz, 100W, 4Ohm, THD = -125dB

4-20V-4R-10kHz.png

10KHz, 100W, 4Ohm, THD = -111dB

Distortion measurements are made using the difference method, by subtracting the input signal from the attenuated output signal.
The analyzer has a residual distortion of -140dB at 1kHz and -122dB at 10kHz.
After nulling the distortion output with amplitude and phase potentiometers, the distortion- + oscillator-signals are fed into the PC by, for example, a Focusrite Scarlet and measured with REW-RTA. Since the distortion has been amplified by 1000X, 60dB must be subtracted from the measured distortion.

A disadvantage of this method is the noise added, the THD+N figures are useless. On the other hand, the residue visibility on the scope is of great help to deduce the source of distortion.

5-OPS10-3.5.1-1.png


The 1975 circuit was made as an enhancement to the Quad triplets, I used earlier with the Hawk amplifier. The current through these triplets is abruptly cut off by the voltage developed across the output resistors, the reason being that those resistors are outside of the local feedback loop. The sudden change in impedance results in crossover distortion.

My solution was to place the bias voltage and the output resistors inside the local feedback loop by using a common input element, the emitter-coupled input-pair Q21/22.
This forces the current through these transistors and the 470Ohm resistors R56/59 to be equal and dependent on the voltage between the basis. This creates equal and out of phase input voltages for the upper and lower triplets Q23/25/27-29-31 and Q24/26/28-30-32.
The use of out of phase signals made it possible to use identical circuits for both triplets, this also reduces 2e harmonic distortion.

The result is an output stage with minor irregularities at the crossover point, vanishing with increasing bias current. There is no minimum, this eliminates thermal lag induced distortion. Due to the large feedback factor, the resulting output resistance is that low, that a wingspread figure is meaningless.


Bias adjustment:

The floating voltage across C25 moves with the output, which sets the current drawn by the lower triplet and forces the upper triplet to the same current.
There is a lot of voltage gain in series with the power transistors which means that the temperature has a huge impact on bias current via Q24. Because of that it was essential to keep all triplet transistors, including Q23/24, thermally coupled.

The temperature compensation of 10mV/degree C is provided by U3 - LM35 and buffered by Q20. Temperature variations in the base/emitter voltage of Q20 are compensated for by Q36.
The bias is adjusted with RV1 by altering the voltage over U2.
The spread is small enough to allow for a fixed bias.
The measurements were made with 100mA per output transistor, the distortion with low load resistances can be reduced by increasing the bias above 100mA/transistor.

Protection circuit:

The maximum dissipation of the MJL2194 is specified at 200W at 25 C, so the maximum instantaneous dissipation limit is set at 120W maximum to accommodate a temperature increase.
The current sensing resistors R68//72 and R70//74, combined with the circuitry around Q33 and Q34, facilitate the shorting of the Q23 and Q24 basis via D26/25, clipping the output signal in case the dissipation is reached.
This function works over the four quadrants of output power.

6-PCB.png


The layout needed special care to get those low distortion figures. For example, the 2W resistors, carrying large peak currents, are placed in such a way that their induced fields eliminate each other and the output trace is alongside the return trace to minimize store signal pickup.
The little awkward placing of the drivers Q25/26 was necessary to prevent the onset of ringing, when clipping without load, if mounted alongside the MJL21194's with a less effective layout.


CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION LTP/VAS:
7-VAS4-3.5.1-1.png


The VAS stage is the best candidate for tweaking, as it combines big voltage gain with large swings.
After trying several circuits, the article "A New Amplifier etc.", by Samuel Groner caught my attention, as it shows a lot of benefits over other circuits, it also looked vaguely familiar. After looking through my old documentation, this proved to be true, a STAX power amp schematic from ca 1981 shows an identical circuit.
It is a symmetrical folded cascode circuit which combines high speed, symmetrical clipping and low distortion. The addition of Q14 and Q15 reduced the emitter-impedance of Q15/16, further reducing the distortion.
A level shifting stage between LTP and VAS is prevented by setting the midpoint (connection R29-R30) to 5V negative by U1.

The LTP needed very little changing, a constant current source Q9 was added supplying the voltage for the cascode stage Q2/5, which lowers common mode distortion further.
For low distortion, surprisingly, more elaborate measures such as Cross-quad or Cascomp input or even a Wilson current mirror were not necessary.
With a Wilson current mirror the offset will be zero with a good matched differential pair Q1/8, for distortion it made no difference. Lowest distortion was obtained by minimizing the voltage difference between the collectors of Q3 and Q6, this is set by D1 and R39, in combination with R53, correcting the offset. The current mirror is referenced to ground instead of the negative supply rail.


Compensation:

The amount of feedback available is determined by the compensation, which in turn affects the degree of distortion reduction that's possible.
This is handled by the combination of C10/11/38 and R21/22 giving a phase margin of 101 degrees at 1.5MHz and 70dB feedback at 10kHz.

8-stability.png

Stability plot with 2-, 4- and 8Ohm load.

I have built several prints of this latest version, all giving the same performance. The MJL21194’s per triplet need to be of the same HFE to guaranty the correct functioning of the power limiter.


CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION ANALYSER:

9-distortionmeter.png

The differential input circuit used was the result of a long search to minimize the distortion limit of the analyzer, every improvement made to the amplifier followed by a same effort for the analyzer. The best circuits with matched resistors does not have enough common mode rejection, this strange circuit has. The OPA1656, X1, kept the common mode signal zero.
The inverted oscillator signal, for which I use Victor’s circuits, is fed into the summing node of X6 via R14.
The DUT output is attenuated to the oscillator signal level and via R15 added.
The three NE5532’s amplify the difference of the DUT input and output signal, the distortion 1000X. Phase correction is done by C3 and potentiometers X7/8.
The 60dB amplified distortion signal is added to the input signal by R27/28 to obtain a signal suitable for use with REW.

I wish to thank Simon for his feedback and support in those years.

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For Sale Group of control knobs, fuse holders, chassis connectors and panel switches.

SOLD

Asking $65 for all including USA shipping.


Cleaning out my supply cupboard. I hope someone can find a use for some of these components.

- Sixteen chicken foot and 20 various round control knobs. All for .250 inch shafts. All are metal lined with tightening screws or collet closers.

- various fuse holders for chassis or board mounting.

- chassis connectors: 5 Neutrik male xlr, 1 Neutrik USB, 6 generic female xlr, 2 amphenol rca jacks red / white

-14 oz. of switches, most single throw, some 2 pole. Two toggles with led on light. Some very nice NKK DPST toggles included.

USA shipping only.

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Presentation

hi all to this wonderful community, this is my introduction post, i'm a DIY hobbyist i'm here mainly for my RJM Emerald but my interests are also in guitar/bass stompboxes and hifi autoconstruction in general, i'm quite skilled with soldering but not so skilled in electrical knowledge, that's why i'm here, to learn and develop my knowledge.

thanks to everyone

Miro PCM1704 Stackable USB-I2S sale

SOLD





Miro USB interface stack PCM1704 DAC board for sale.
A pair of PCM1704 with one white dot => J graded chips on the board, and these are very difficult to source these days. These are recycled chips from a reliable seller, removed with proper care. They are not bought from random sellers in Ali or ebay. They work properly and nicely.

What you need to provide :
1. Chassis, wires, connectors etc
2. You will need to give it PSU with rails +/-5V (Analog) , +/-5V (Digital) and +/-10~12V (IV Op amp supply)
3. Compatible USB-I2S interface board that can be stacked on the DAC board. The two such devices are :

http://jlsounds.com/i2soverusbFIO.html

and



Board fully populated with good quality caps eg. Nichicon KZ and FG, Vishay Mkp, Panasonic acrylic caps, etc

The IV Stage has a pair of AD811 op amp with heatsink mounted. Design is posted by Grunf, and discussed here:
[IMG alt="grunf"]https://www.diyaudio.com/community/data/avatars/s/53/53808.jpg?1638973617[/IMG]

Thread 'AD811 as I/V stage for current DACs (and test some other opamps including Burson Audio opamps as I/V)'

2023-01-11 6:54 am
First, let me introduce my DAC, some have already seen it, but for those who haven't, it's a classic old-school DAC with DIR9001 as a digital receiver, PMD100 digital filter and 6 PCM1702s, three in parallel for each channel. The output current of 3 PCM1702s is 7.2mAp-p max. The power supply is given the greatest care, the PCB itself with DIR9001 has three ADP7118 regulators and they are the only IC reg. in the DAC. Other regulators, two +5V for PMD100, +/-5V for PCM1702 and the new +/-10V for AD811 are low noise shunt regulators, slightly improved, made according to Mr.Walt Jung's article...


Payment by PAYPAL FF only please.
DAC + shipping registered & tracking = 250 USD or preferably 340 SGD (Singapore dollars)
Please note that the USB-I2S interface board is not included in this sales.
If you wish to purchase a USB-I2S interface board, DM me for enquiry.

Mismatched ohms

I think I made a rookie mistake when ordering the drivers for my 2 way speaker build. Its my first one and have been meticulous with the details right up to the important part. I ordered 2 midbass @ 8 ohms and the tweeters @ 4 ohms. Each speaker getting 1 driver a piece of course. I could have sworn i got both 4 ohms but a quick check says otherwise. Can this work? if it will work, will it affect sound quality. They are 2500 hz crossovers and will be powered by a 2ch 100 watt amp if that makes any difference. I'm afraid I havent done a lot of studying on the electronic side of this yet and have been mostly focused on the mechanicals so feel free to educate me.. Thanks

Edit: Was able to go in and cancel that order. It appears that I need to study up a little...or a lot more before making any purchases. Thanks for the responses

Newie Saying Hello ;)

Hello Everyone🖐️ ... this is HappyDoer here ... a complete Newbie to this amazing community!!! ☺️
I'm a DIY hobbyist hoping to gain some amazing insights and inspirations from many of the seniors here! 😚

My interest includes ...
(1) Zero feedback I/V output R2R DAC design
(2) DHT preamp tubes design
(3) Class A and Class D amp design
(4) DSP active X-Over design
(5) OB and TL speaker design

For Sale Goldpoint stereo attenuator, various rca chassis connectors, Audio Note binding posts

ALL SOLD


Unused Goldpoint stereo 100K 24 step attenuator. Never used in planned project.


Small group of chassis connectors, mainly from my silver plated and rhodium plated phases. All new old stock, not used.

Each item price includes USA ground shipping.

I will mark each item as sold when they do sell.

1) Goldpoint Stereo 24 step 100K resistance stepped attenuator (model V24-2-100K), never soldered to.
Asking $90. SOLD

2) KLEI (Eichmann) classic pair of chassis rca connectors. White and Black.
Asking $20 SOLD

3) Cardas GRFA Double Rhodium plated pair of rca chassis/board connectors.
Asking $35 SOLD

4) Audio Note AN-CS silver plated chassis mount rca connector pair, red / black
Asking $15 SOLD

5) Audio Note AN-STR 10mm Meishu Short Silver Plated Binding Posts, 2 pair red/black
Asking $80. SOLD

USA shipping only


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Yamaha EMX-3000 powered mixer with issues

Hi guys.

I just received a Yamaha EMX-3000 powered mixer for servicing.
This mixer had its power transformer changed from 240VAC to 120VAC. It is kind of a crappy conversion: the original toroidal transformer was replaced with a square one that is a little bit to big for this mixer. So someone made it fit, cutting out a square piece of the metal shielding between the console and the amp section, right above the trafo and squeezed it inside the enclose.

Issue #1: The mixer has developed a strange noise. With all faders down (no volume), a tone starts at about 1000hz and gradually moves down to about 100hz, then goes away and after about 5 seconds starts over. This goes on and on.

Issue #2: The digital effects built into the unit is not working.

Issue #3: 2 input channels out of 8 have more gain than the others. Im not yet sure if these two are overdriven or the other 6 channels are "underdriven"...

Any idea how to approach these issues?

Thanks in advance!

TPA3255 or IRS2092+IRFB4227

I am working on new 3-way speakers project with two 12" woofers in parallel.
Impedance drops to 2.3 ohm between 40 to 60 Hz so I need power amp which can handle 2 ohm load.
There are not much choices, I have found only two amps with equired specs.

TPA3255 (dual core board)
TPA3255 (upgraded version)

IRS2092+IRFB4227 (stereo board)
IRS2092+IRFB4227 (mono board)

Both have enough power but for home listening 50 W is more than enough.
THD+N: TPA3255 is 0.006% at 50W 4ohm
IRS2092 is 0.01% at 50W 4ohm
This low distortion is surely not audible (speakers have much bigger distortion) but there is big difference with SNR.
SNR: TPA3255 is 111 dB
IRS2092 is 90 dB only !

Does anybody have listening experience with some of these power amps? Which one would you recommend?
My goal is clear, articulated and deep bass, wide 3D soundstage, clarity and details.
I know these parameters depends much more on pre amp but I would like to discuss it later. 🙂

Elementary questions related to BiB speakers

Greetings to all!

My insufficient understanding impels me to ask a few basic questions.

1. As i understand, a 1:10 expanding Quarter wave pipe and a BiB ("0":10) pipe are essentially a very similar geometry as well as the fundamental principle. If the former is a 1/4 wave resonator, why is a BiB talked of as a 1/2 wave resonator? - Rather than saying it is tuned at 1/2 wavelength of the driver Fs, would it not be more consistent with the principle if we understand it as a quarter wave pipe tuned simply an octave lower.... Or tuned simply at Fs*0.5? (Of course, this would be without accounting for the shorter effective acoustic length of the expanding pipe.)

2. Martin King's alignment tables show a roughly 1/1.4 acoustic length for a 1:10 expanding pipe. If i am building such a Qw pipe to be tuned at 50 Hz, i would require a physical length of [(1,128*12)/50/4] * 1.4 = 68" * 1.4 = 95". If building a BiB pipe using the Xls calculator, it would state a 136" pipe. The question is, will the BiB pipe's actual tuning be significantly higher than its physical length would indicate?

3. Martin King's alignment tables suggest a driver offset of roughly 0.41 from the pipe beginning for a 1:10 expanding pipe in order to have minimum ripple. Since a BiB pipe expands at a rate not quite different from it, might using the same driver offset instead of 0.217 help reduce the ripple?

4. Based on the quarter wave principle (as in my probably mistaken understanding) since the BiB pipe (with its huge internal volume) is tuned significantly lower than the driver Fs, would a 1 mm Xmax driver not be at great risk of over excursion at its Fs even at 1 watt? How does such a low sub-Fs tuning support the cone excursion at Fs? Is there something i have failed to see/consider?

5. Am considering a BiB for a 12" wideband unit. Fs = 50 Hz, Vas = 105 litres, Qts = 0.58, Xmax = 2 mm and Sensitivity = 95 dB/watt. Apart from the suggested pipe length of 136", the internal width will be 16.5" and the gross internal depth 22". - Using 12+18 mm MDF for the baffle and 18 mm MDF for the rest of the panels, would it call for a bit of internal bracing? Also, would it hinder the wave flow?

6. I listen in a room which is 16 feet x 22 feet x (H)12 feet, usually at a position not more than 5 metres away. If the speakers can deliver peaks of 100 dB per channel about 1kHz at 1 metre, it is good enough for me. - In the proposed plan above, given the 2 mm Xmax, would it be a silly idea to tune the pipe at 40 Hz instead of 50 Hz?

Would be greatly obliged if the experts can help dispel my confusion and offer their valuable insight! Looking forward to receiving something conclusive from Scott, Dave, GM!

Thanks in advance! 🙏

With warm & sincere regards,
sujat
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Maeshowe Build

As noted in a few other related threads, I’ve been working on building a pair of Woden Maeshowes. I’ve lusted after Silburys for years, but I’ve got some Pluvia 7.2HDs so Maeshowe it is.

I’m including the optional baffle braces, because I think they are essential. Material choice was very limited in my location so it is just decent quality 15mm ply. Not void free, sadly, but not really full of voids either. It’ll do.

They sell it in (roughly) 3’x6’ sheets here, so none of the cut sheets were appropriate. A quick google search got me to https://www.opticutter.com/cut-list-optimizer#form which proved to be the perfect tool for the job.

I invested in an inexpensive table saw to do the bulk of the cutting and I am glad I did. So easy to get all pieces with identical width, in order to ensure a perfect fit when that final side panel gets glued.

I was intimidated by the curve on the back of this design, and brainstormed a bit about how to draw that curve at the correct radius. Another google search brought me to https://www.blocklayer.com/arc-layout , which again worked perfectly for the task at hand. It was a bit tedious, but I only had to do it once and then use the first piece as a template. Jig saw did a decent, if not perfect, job.

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Progress is slow due to “never too many clamps” and I am allowing extra clamp time because it is pretty chilly in the house.

Hello

New member, have been lurking around for some time. HiFi as a valued hobby (on and off, life happens) for more than 40 years, DIY-ing different loudspeakers, crossovers, amps, preamps and a little bit of room correction, and still learning. A true believer in that good impulse response is a necessity for good sound. Curious about DSP, has the tech evolved to a level where analog-era functions and quality are maintained or even approved ?

Help with Smith horns project

Hi everyone,
I would like to start a new journey in DIY with speaker building, and I'm sure that your help will be fundamental in doing the project right 🙂
The approach will be a little unconventional, starting with horn speakers covering specific frequency ranges instead of building a "complete" system.
The reason for this is that I'm planning to use the speakers in multichannel sound performances, each speaker couple will have its discreet stereo source and amplifier (and hi-pass filter from the audio source), along with a quadraphonic PA, so for the moment I will not use the speakers combined with a woofer via crossover, but later could be used in a "standard" 3-way configuration.

I would like to build 4 speakers, two for upper midrange and two for high frequencies. For the upper midrange I thought of Smith horns because everything has to fit in my suitcase (40x60cm) with the rest of my equipment.

About the Smith horns:
1 - I've seen the design built in different dimensions, I would like to stick with the original design, but I can consider improvements (like JBL 2397 style) or changing dimensions;
2 - JBL 2397 and some DIY projects I've seen have a flare at the opening, is it supposed to be somehow helpful for vertical distribution of sound?
3 - which compression driver would you recommend?
4 - any advice on a good simple design for the higher frequencies?

I’m not that good at working with wood and probably I will go for laser cut plywood for the project.

Thanks a lot to everyone in advance, looking forward to hear your thoughts!
glauco

Thesis student looking for help

Hi,
Im currently conducting my master thesis in mechanical engineering. I joined this forum to hopefully get some knowledge regarding possibilities and limitations of Akabak. I'm focusing on microphones, more specifically the acoustic path, how the sound travel through casings and gaskets to reach the microphone.

If you have knowledge in either microphones or akabak, feel free tor each out!

Mark Levinson No.27 amplifier,,,NEED HELP

i have the Mark Levinson No.27, for some reason it keeps going into protection mode . As soon as it turns on, after few seconds, it turns itself off.
When I removed the right channel, it works perfectly, but when I removed the left channel ,switched on the right channel, , it was shutting down quickly when the power. I think the right channel is bad.
anyone know how to repair it? thanks!

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outdoor solar powered audio listening place

For an art project I'm working on that will take place outdoors, I would like to create a poetry listening spot. The concept involves constructing a monument with a speaker driver and a button (or a distance sensor, which I have not yet decided on) to play back poetry.
I intend to use this board for both audio playback and processing the button press/distance sensor input.

What I'm currently trying to figure out is:

Which audio amplifier and driver should I use? For a previous project, I received helpful suggestions and used a specific driver and amplifier that worked very well. Would these be suitable choices for the current project?

Powering the system – the entire setup should run on solar power and a battery. I am open to any suggestions on this matter. The installation is scheduled for release in the summer when plenty sunlight is available. However, I also want it to function during the winter when there are fewer sunny days and rainfall is more likely.

To determine the appropriate solar panel and battery for the system, I can assume that the setup will operate for approximately one hour per day. The board responsible for playing back the poetry consumes 110mA, and the amplifier will use a maximum of 30W, although it is likely to be much less.

Thank you for any suggestions!

Need help to identify components

22 year ago, i this, a 25W Amplifier, out of yhis schema: https://web.archive.org/web/2003122....hometown.aol.com/_ht_a/lmdmkm/25w/25wamp.htm
The original site is no longer and the resolution of the images are so bad.
Is gere anyone who can help me identufy the numbers on the schema ?
What components is in the listm that i can see, but which should go where ?

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IRS2092S drawing current and no output

Hello, i bought a few irs2092s “500w” amps
When powered with +60v, 0v “virtual ground” and -60V, the amp powers on and runs fine with no output load (fan spins) but when the amp board is connected to any speaker (tried many) the speaker extends fully and the power supply registers high current draw, wires heat up etc.

Tested my 50A dual power supply which is perfectly fine and works with my other amps.

Have gotten 3 of the board all from different suppliers, all have same issue.

Heres one i got off amazon

If anyone has any ideas lmk
If anyone knows of a schematic for these boards would also be really helpful, im hoping to find a fix as i have 3 of them doing this

For Sale Neurochrome DG300B Kit including transformers

Hi all,

I've been saving this DG300B kit for my end-game 300B SET amp but have been slowly moving away from tubes in my system and still have 3 other unbuilt tube projects besides this one.

This sale includes
  • PCB's -- main board, PSU board, 3x regulators and 1x Maida HT regulator
  • Pair of Jensen input transformers per BOM
  • Pair of Solen AGM 0.22uF (Silver Metallized), which fit the PCB properly
  • Pair of NOS Amphenol 4-pin sockets + ceramic 9-pin.
  • Pair of custom Electra-Print output transformers per Tom's spec -- 15W, 100mA, 5K for 300B. Single 8ohms output
  • BOM specified power transformer which is out of production.
  • Optional heat-sink for Maida reg

The boards have not been soldered by me but the work is very clean as can be observed in the photos.

I'm asking $1200 + shipping, which is approx. the cost of parts (not counting for inflation 🙂

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Dynaudio 30W54

I have a custom subwoofer where I removed the pair of 12" subwoofer drivers and replaced them with a single subwoofer driver. The pair was updated by Millersounds (cones/surrounds). The pair are Dynaudio 30W5412 2A and are in excellent condition. I would like to sell them but have no idea of a fair price, could anybody give me an assist?

QUAD 405 issue after Dada update

I picked up my Quad 405 along with a 34 preamp in the late 80's and later added the FM4 tuner. It was my first fully separate component system. The preamp and tuner were sold long ago but I've hung onto the 405 for sentimental reasons.

When many of us were recently stuck at home ago I ordered from Dada Electronics a Quad 405 Revision Kit. I knew it needed new capacitors and thought purchasing the upgrade would be a good idea. Unfortunately it made the unit unusable and so it has been sitting on the shelf for almost 3 years.

The immediate problem upon completing the OPA 604 update, as instructed with new zener diodes and resistors to reduce input sensitivity, was a very loud turn off noise on each channel. On reading up on the issue it appears the new op-amp requires significantly more current and so the simple resistor fed power supply becomes depleted prior to the rest of the circuit shutting down. I have no idea why this had been packaged as an upgrade without warning this would happen.

I've read that further modifications are possible through use addition of a transistor to buffer and properly regulate power to the OPA 604 but I am not keen on going further from stock and potentially causing other damage. I just want my little amplifier to work again.

Is there an easy fix, perhaps a similar op-amp I could plug in that does not require as much current and won't cause the turn off noise?

Alternatively, I kept the old parts and if I can find the instructions I used may be able to put the old zener and 301 op-amp back in service. Not sure if I would need to also change the resistors back to original sensitivity. I have some skill but am not an engineer.

Thanks in advance.

Subwoofer positioning question

I've got two subs that I plan on upgrading the drivers in. They are currently sitting here, but I want to move them to where the TV tray with the amp, crossover, a guitar amp and a part 15 transmitter are with the drivers facing forward.



20250203_220014.jpg


I want to stack the two amps and crossover on the subs, but the transmitter antenna is maybe 3" from the ceiling and my Adcom GFA 545II amp is taller than that so I could not put both amps there with the transmitter on top.

20250203_220021.jpg



The transmitter uses two tubes and has several meters. Will it be ok to set the transmitter directly on top of the sub or will the subs cause vibrations that will damage the tubes over a period of time?

I don't want to set the TV tray in front of the subs with the amps and crossover on it as that might interfere with the subs due to being in front of them, but I don't know where else I can put the amps.

Eventually I plan on adding two more amps to the stack when I get my Advent Maestro speakers (going to tri amp them) back from the church I go to as I loaned them to the church until we get the powered speakers in the fellowship hall replaced.

Did a balanced detachable cable mod on my AKG K240 600ohm. Now sound is incredibly low

Hi. new member and looking for some assistance. I'm a relatively new DIYer. Ive completed a detachable cable mod on my DT 880 600ohm cans using mini-xlrs and it worked out great. I just tried to do a balanced detachable cable mod on my AKG240s 600ohm cans using 3.5mm jacks. The issue is I can hear sound, but its extremely low. Like I have to crank my amp to 100% and its just barely audible (this is on a Bottlehead Crack that I normally only use at around 40-50% volume).

Not sure what I did wrong. I used these 3.5mm jacks.

This is the diagram for the pins. I soldered each side to the ground and tip.
31B4zSJ7CpL.jpg

I did red to the tip and white to ground
IMG_4852.jpeg

and if i can get this working properly, here is what it will look like complete. its not very pretty, the jacks are too long and the headband attachment gets in the way of trying to get them flush. but at least it will get rid of that abrasive and way too long of a cord.
IMG_4853.JPG

all help is great appreciated.

FlexReg Single and Dual Rail Regulated Power Supply using 78xx/79xx OR 317/337

The idea for this PCB is to provide a flexible dual-rail general-purpose regulated power supply for low-power audio projects (e.g. preamps, crossovers, etc.). The design goals for the board and power supply included:
  • Compact with PCB mount transformer & optional connections for an external transformer
  • 15 or 25VA Transformer Options
  • Dual Rail Regulated DC power supply (Positive & Negative)
  • Flexibility for using standard 78xx/79xx family of fixed regulators OR 317/337 adjustable regulators
  • Able to fit in an off-the-shelf Hammond chassis OR into the 10x10 grid of a Modushop / DIYAudio chassis
  • CRCRC pre-filtering before regulators
  • Include ground break rectifier on the PCB
  • Include A/C cap on the PCB
  • Flexibility for 120/240 mains
  • Optional items for users to populate or not:
  • LEDs on PCB (for rail voltage indication and front panel indicator) – optional to populate
  • Snubber circuitry
Thank you to Jim “6L6” for the inspiration, brainstorming, and encouragement on this project!

The first one I built is in a headphone amp using a 15VA transformer and 7812/7912 regulators. I have also built a variable 317/337 version for a BA3 preamp project.

Send me a message if you're interested in trying one.

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Pre-amplifier modules to add gain level adjustment to 1,000W MosFet amp to drive 18" subwoofers

Hi All

I am looking to swap my 500W sub amps for 1,000W amps on my 18" subs as I want to build some additional 15" but the BK Electronics BPSP 500 amps (which are great) are no longer available, so will use the 500W on the 15" and 1000w on the 18". I have the work horse amps but these don't come with control plates and preamps, I do all the EQ and time alignment with DSP and this has a 560 Ohm output impedance (mini DSP 10x10). My 18" run from 8 Hz - 38Hz, I have no high pass filter just a low pass.

I'm looking for a small perhaps 12V (I have some fleabay 12V supplies) mono preamp circuit or kit that I can use as a gain control. I will also try a passive pot but do want to try active as well as I often find passive is perhaps more resolving but less dynamic and these are all about transients and dynamics so I want them to be as dynamic as possible so will try a cheap pre amp to make sure I'm not missing out

Any recommendations, I just want a nice small volume pot with perhaps a buffer and gain control. It has made me think that perhaps the 500W Subwoofer plate amps might sound better with a nice naim circuit (I use old naim preamplifiers in the AV set up) feeding the other sub power amps as I don't need the controls for EQ and phase. But after thinking about 24V power supplies and recommissioning an old naim HiCap I reminded myself the 500W are superb sub amps and the internal small and obviously cheap pre amps is fine with these !

Thoughts appreciated (By the way having replaced the internal Cremona Subwoofer amplifiers with external 500W amplifiers I am very aware that low frequency subwoofers are not immune to what drives them like some believe)

Any small DIY pre-amp board the input sensitivity of the amp is 500mV, but I can change the sensitive resistor to 775mV as I have the circuit schematic if any more information would be helpful. Any recommendations for small boards that I can build in appreciated

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Hello all

Hello yall,

I'm Joe. I am fairly new to DIY audio; I have one project under my belt so far. I built a boombox to fit on my bicycle rack to take on group rides. There was not too much thought that went into the design of the box, I kinda just made an mdf box and stuck the speakers + amp in. I plan on building an larger, upgraded version of this system, perhaps using a bike trailer or cargo bike. I have come to this forum to learn more about box design and audio system design.
BikeSpeaker.jpg

Speakers cabinet _ knock on wood test

Good morning to Everyone !
it is me again trying to understand something on speakers cabinet testing
I firmly believe in the knock on test on cabinet panels
It reminds me of another test usually done on another product

Login to view embedded media
I absolutely believe in the usefulness of this test
wanting to do the test in a more scientific way, instead of my knuckles that also hurt, I would like to use a small hammer
a first question is about the type of hammer that can be used and above all what is the best material
metal, wood, plastic? there are hammers of very different materials

Moreover I wonder if it is possible to somehow replace the ear with an instrument that gives a sort of spectrum of the noise generated by the cabinet
I was very impressed by this video here from Wilson Audio

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each material has a different resonance in an evident way
It seems that different materials are optimized for different purposes
I struggle with English but I have not understood which material is the best in the end
The only cabinet that is truly critical for me is absolutely the woofer one
I think it is really the only problem that I have left
and I think it is enormously underestimated
I tried to study the solutions used for subwoofer cabinets but I do not know which is the best and above all how it is made inside and with what materials and all the rest
I believe that the real problem in audio reproduction is the reproduction of low frequencies which are like the foundations of a building
if the foundations are not solid the whole building can collapse
if they are solid the rest he's always standing or almost

Have you ever seen this done to a MkIII?

Hi all. Picked up a pair of Dynaco Mk3 for refurb. Didn't pay too much attention to the driver boards. I have seen so many of them over the years, that I can't keep track (stock circuit, 1 tube). Well... I hadn't seen this one. I drew it up to share (neg bias deleted for space). I figure they are individual made, someone's great idea🙄. But the implementation of a ccs, both amps having matching boards, and the cathode feedback with grounding through the secondary...Has anyone else ever seen this particular topology being used for a Mkiii, or anything else? I feel like I always see drivers after the ltp, if and when it is the first stage, and that the cathode feedback scheme looks shady as well...🤷🏼‍♂️

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Hello everyone

Hello everyone!
My name is Vadim, and I’m a passionate music lover and audiophile.

I really appreciate deep soundstage and immersive audio, and my setup includes a Line Magnetic LM-216AI tube amplifier and Magnat Signature 1105 speakers. I enjoy a wide range of music, from Thom Yorke, Massive Attack, and James Blake to Tord Gustavsen and Agnes Obel.

Thanks a lot, and I’m happy to be part of this community!

Gemtune APPJPA0901A updates

I have been looking at the APPJPA0901A amp to power a pair of vintage Coral speakers for my office.

I have scoured the net but have not come across any sites that can tell me what, if any, upgrades have been made to the amplifier through the years?

The amp looks pretty much the same from the 2000s when it was introduced.

Secondly, have any owners updated their amps to make a noticeable improvement in SQ?

Tia

For Sale Pair of Hammond choke 36mH, DCR 16R, shielded

Found an other pair of large Hammond Choke, marked 27952, Shielded, Tested 36mH, DCR 16ohms, each weights 2.6Kg, still in the original box.
Open to offer, due to size and weight makes probably more sense to sell/ship them within Canada.

Let me know
SB

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Diamond triple power power buffer

I'm studying a buffer to drive a couple of speakers. The buffer is to be driven by a mu-follower. There will be no signal feedback loop.

I wish to achieve an output power of around 200W.

After reading Bob Cordell, I chose the diamond triple topology.

My concern/doubt is as follows:
  • C103 (red), to be used in a triple Darlington to speed up the final pair to switch off, perhaps it should not be used with this project;
  • the xVbe (components with index 5xx - it is needed a temp sensor and 2 x Vbe to compensate the final pairs) with its CCSs; perhaps a simple series of 2 diodes (component index 7xx) hits the spot, and the two CCSs made out of depletion mosfets are not needed anymore;
  • the point where to apply the DC feedback (servo) to maintain the offset at zero, I'm not particularly eager to use a servo connected to the input, because it will interact with the input capacitors, so I'm trying to connect the servo to the CCSs feeding the folded EF.

I drew only one final pair, there will be more.

Any help would be appreciated.

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Joining at last

Hello all,

My primary audio interest is bass guitar and bass amps. My main amp is an Ampeg SVT-7 PRO tube pre / Class D power "hybrid". I've come across much helpful info on diyAudio over the years and have decided it is finally time to join in. There is a depth of wisdom here that exceeds that of other boards, and I'm glad to be here!

Cheers,

-rzero
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Help with crossover layout

Hi, currently building my first 2-way crossover. I am trying to minimize the size of the crossover (I'll be mounting on a different board), and had a few options for layout. Wanted to get some feedback to see if everything looks OK, specifically about the placement/orientation of the inductors on the right side.

Another question I haven't been able to find the answer to, if distance and orientation between two inductors is the same, does a capacitor in between them decrease the coupling?

Thanks in advance.

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My FaitalPro 3 way prototype

So, I decided to test a tri amped Faital pro with digital crossover.

Drivers:
15pr400
10pr320
Hf108r with lth102

Building this monstrosity in my Parisian apartment is a bit of a chore.
Even with this cheap 20mm plywood, my palm router struggled with the holes. I screwed the baffle and the back, to be able to disassemble it later.

It’s 160l internal minus 19l for the mid box.
Winisd gives me a nice curve at 43Hz with two 100mm ports, of length ~100mm

Now I have to hook it up my minidsp and use three channel in mono to see if I can get something satisfactory out of it.

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