It seems that many of the Chassis in the store no longer display the inside outside dimensions....



Can someone have a look at fix please. The 4U for instance.

Have a look at this.I brought this unit and is in realy excellent condition.I havent checked it over yet, but it does turn on.
good job i always check things before i plug them in.

have a look at this,beggars belief realy how someone wasn't killed or injured😱

I came across a variation on the theme that isolates the "tank" from B+. Isolation from B+ suggests ease of working with varicap tuning diodes.

Hi tubemen of the valve,
Ive recently replaced the Power tube on my Melody SP3 II with Winged C 6l6GC I'm burning them in at 1.3v bias on idle, any suggestions for bias voltage to get the most out of these tubes in this amp?
Cheers.

Hey there, this is a dedicated thread on my open baffle speakers. The speakers are quite easy to build, easy to tweak or upgrade, and they are pretty decent especially for the cost.

In the following posts, I'll provide details on the speakers, so you can replicate them and/or discuss with me about how to improve the speakers.

Disclaimer: I'm a recreational speaker builder with no commercial intensions. The present speakers are considered by me as being in beta phase. They are definitely ready to rock and I'm listening exclusively on them for almost a half year now. I will provide my wishlist of improvements along the journey here.

For sale original Tjoeb CD4000 pcb full functional. This pcb tube cd player boatrd you can put in Marantz cd4000 cd player if you have one at home and you have truly superb sounding tube cd player. I also will give bouth transformets to the buyer.I also have transport, becose this is fully funktional cd player but without enclosure. So if someone will put together low price tube cd player this is good start. For more info plese contact me. Price is 100eu plus shipping.

Hi,

I am trying to learn to read documentation of ES9038Q2M DAC, but I am having trouble with some stuff:

1) Where am I supposed to pass audio for example from USB to the chip?
2) How am I supposed to control volume and is setted volume supposed to be remember somewhere after DAC lose power?
3) I am confused about filters. Does ES9038Q2M have integrated filters and I need to somehow select which filter I want to use?
4) Am I right when thinking that I can use AGND_R + DACRB + DACR and AGND_L + DACL + DACLB for balanced output, for example for XLR connectors?
5) Exposed Pad can be connected to DGND route track just like that?
6) What are SW, FSYNC, HPSDb, GPIO1/GPIO2, DATA1/DATA2, DATA_CLK, XTAL, SCL, SDA?
7) What is the purpose of ADDR in case of DAC?

Sorry about a lot of questions, but I am new to all of this and I am trying to learn how DAC works, but for questions above I can't find any explanations online.

Thanks.

I renewed my diyaudio donation on May 21, 2021. Still hasn't taken effect, is there anything I'm missing? The past years it went through without a hitch. Paypal seems to have processed the payment.

Recently, a thread about "what do you prefer about passive crossovers" got me thinking about active crossovers and active (powered) multi-way loudspeakers, and how this has to be more of less "cobbled together" using external parts. For example, if I want to make a 3- or 4-way active loudspeaker (and yes, I typically do that) I need two 4-way or a single 8-way active crossover, and that many amplifications channels as well. My wife is very opposed to a cable morass that tends to occur when all these components are external and not in a dedicated cabinet of some kind, so I have always wanted to build everything into the loudspeaker. This would leave a power cable, and line in or (even better) wireless audio bringing the audio signal to the speaker(s). Unfortunately I have just not found good, compact, multiway amplification and DSP or other active crossover units that can be built into the loudspeaker simply and easily. So this thread is my daydream about what these components would look like. I invite you to put down your thoughts about the form/format that these physical components might use.

As an example, let's say I want to build a 3-way loudspeaker in an box. If electronics were available in a half-rack 1U size format they could be very easily built into a recess of this size in the rear of the loudspeaker. Amplifiers would be 1 or 2 channels, and a 4-channel DSP unit would provide enough analog I/O to run everything. I can sort of put this together now, from some components that I own, but not without some issues. Half-rack amplifiers are available, for example the small class-D amps like the TPA325x series, or even class AB amps, for example the Parasound Zamp v3. The problem is that these will generate heat and that would have to be removed, probably using a fan to pull air in/through. It's not exactly ideal to have a fan in your loudspeaker!

Most components generate heat, of course amplifiers but even line-level ones. Why not place 25-40mm deep heat sinking on the front panel, taking up the entire panel itself? If the components are assembled in a stack similar to a PA rack, the heat sinks would line up to form a taller one. I/O lines that lead external to the loudspeaker could come out of a separate panel, or from the crossover unit. Internal connections for AC mains power and speaker wires would be made via terminals on the side opposite the heatsink, the "inside", where they can be out of sight.

I think that this kind of market is probably quite small, since it would be specific to DIYers only. It would make things relatively simple, however, and I think it would be much more versatile than plate amps. Who knows, maybe it would become popular. You know: "build it and they will come". The user could add as many channels as he/she wishes using additional amplifier or crossover modules. The small "stack at the back" would keep things tidy and would simplify construction.

So, what do you (dear reader) think about this idea? Are there any other concepts/ideas for built-in active loudspeaker components? If you are a manufacturer out there and listening, this is a thread you might want to follow. We could use your input as well.

Hi all,

Well, after 10 years of designing and building hifi, I have a bunch of stuff that I'd like to pass along to this amazing community at a fraction of what it cost me.

If you're curious, you can see my work here

I am selling a range of electronics and drivers, both new and used, which I will be listing here (along with photos, as it makes sense).

I'd love to know if there are any local DIYers who'd like to come to my workshop (100 miles north of NYC) and take away the majority of what I'm selling, so I don't have to ship it. I also have a lot of hifi gear that we can have fun listening to. I will also give you a bunch of stuff for free. 🙂

Please DM me if interested, or reply here.

Thank you!
Rob

Stuff for sale

DRIVERS

• B&C 21" Woofers
• many more to come from Radian, B&C, BMS, etc.

DIGITAL

• MiniDSP 2x4HD kit (qty: 4), new in box, $100 ea.
• DEQX HDP Express-II, barely used, $500 (retail is 6x this)
• Empirical Audio Spoiler, barely used, $1k (retail was 6x this)

SOURCES

• SOTA turntable with Graham Phantom tonearm
• Cambridge Audio Azur 840C, free, pickup only
• Luxman DZ-111, free, pickup only

ELECTRONICS

• AKSA Soraya amp
• AKSA Swift preamp
• Django TVC
• DIY Hifi Supply TVC
• Yamamoto 845 tube amp
• Yamamoto preamp

Complete noob asking simple questions. In LM1084 datasheet there is mention of bypassing adjust pin to gnd with a capacitor to increase ripple rejection. That only is possible on adjustable version. I need 5V and there is a fixed 5V version but would that perform worse than adjustable one at 5V with bypass cap on adjust pin?

Hi guys, I have a question on using REW to design FIR filters for a miniDSP 2x4HD.

I know that you can do a measurement with REW, and use that to generate the FIR filter coefficients to make the resulting response flat. You can then download these coefficients to the miniDSP and activate the filter.

In my case I have a 'measurement' from another source, which I can export as a .csv/Excel file. Does anyone know if it is possible to import such a measurement file into REW and use that to generate the filter coefficients?

Jan

I am hoping to tap into an i2s signal in my Harmon Kardon CDP. However, I am not sure how to extract it from a CXD1167 chip. There is a prior thread that mentions the CXD1167, but it does not indicate which pins provide the outputs. I do not think the “resister” clue mentioned in that thread helps me for the following reasons:
According to the Tech Manual for the CDP, the CXD1167 D.S.P. feeds a “serial” signal to a SM5871AN dac chip. The specifications state that the SM5871AN is a dual single bit converter. The schematic for the CDP shows 3 lines from the D.S.P. (pins 76 (DA14), 78 (DA16) and 80 (LRCK) going to the dac after each passes through a 470 Ohm resister. These lines attach to pins 9 (BCK1), 10 (DIN) and 8 (LRC1), respectively, of the dac. The data sheet for the dac describes pin 10 (DIN) as “serial data input.” The data sheet contains a description of the “Audio Data Input” as “The digital audio data is input as DIN in 2s complement, msb-first, 16 bit serial format.” The Tech Manual for the CDP states that “the signals are output as 16 bit digital signals from pins 76, 78, and 80 of [the D.S.P.] and fed to the D/A converter. In this case, EFM demodulation, error correction, and serial/parallel conversion are performed by the internal circuitry of [the D.S.P.].” I assume the “serial/parallel conversion” means that the data line is not i2s. Might there be a different pin on the D.S.P. that outputs data in parallel format? I have searched the web and cannot find any data sheets for the D.S.P. (apparently it is a SONY component). Is anyone familiar with this chip?

The CDP also has an optical out. I note that the optical device contains an 8.2K resister in parallel with a .022 uF capacitor in front of the transmitter. (The optical device appears to be an HK part as the parts list describes it only as “E/O PLT102, Converter, Digital Output”.) The optical device is connected to pins 27 (DOTX) and 73 (VDD) of the D.S.P. and ground. Does that suggest that those lines are SPDIF? If so, can I just tap in before the optical device and add a coax jack? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Hi, I have this amp to repair.
It is a 4 channel Mosfet amplifier shorted causing the fuse to blow and a PCB track interrupted.

A few years ago my brother took him to a boy to have him repaired but he told him that the transistors are not found.

I would like to try to repair it, but I noticed that a couple of mosfets are missing on the power supply circuit, the ones next to the SMW60N06 and I don't know if the missing transistors are always SMW60N06 or they are different.
Does anyone have any advice for me ?

Does anyone know this 7103 chip in Soundigital amp?

I'm trying to figure out what the "peak" SPL capability of this combination of drivers is, in a sealed cabinet, the volume of which is optimised for the 12" (sub)woofer. The loudness capability of studio monitors is usually specified in terms of "peak" SPL @ 1m. The system will be tri-amplified with DSP... Hypex or equivalent.



The Satori TW29DN-B tweeter has a sensitivity of 96 dB (2.83 V / 1 m, 4 Ohm), can do 112 dB SPL @ 1m when fed with 80W. But this is per "IEC 268-5, high-pass Butterworth, 2600 Hz, 12 dB/oct". (For the sake of this situation, let us assume I have the said filter in place.)



The Faital Pro 6RS140 has a sensitivity of 93 dB (1W / 1m) and can handle 200W (2 Hours Test According to AES 2-1984 Rev. 2003) and 400W at "maximum power". ("Maximum power is defined as 3dB greater than nominal power.") This speaker will comfortably do 112 dB SPL when crossed over above 200 Hz, so it doesn't worry me.

The SB34NRX75-6 has a sensitivity of 90 dB (2.83V / 1m) and a "rated power handling of 200W. (IEC 268-5, T/S parameters measured on drive units that are broken in.) I am able to simulate a response of 106 dB SPL @ 1m with -3 dB point at ~32 Hz, before hitting x-max.



The SB Acoustics 12" woofer can deliver 106 dB SPL and the tweeter can do 112 dB SPL, but they comply with 'IEC 268-5' test standards, while the Faital mid-woofer complies with 'AES 2-1984 Rev. 2003'. As I said, the Faital is far too robust, so I'll ignore it for now.

I'm trying to figure out what IEC 268-5 means in this context. According to Wikipedia:



Now, by doubling the power to the 12" driver, I'm able to get a 3 dB boost in SPL, but the excursion goes to about 15mm... Xmax is 11mm and XLim (I think) is 17mm for this driver.

Two questions:

1) Looking at the 12" driver in isolation, is it fair to say that that it's "Peak SPL" is 109 dB @ 1m, while continuous SPL is 106 dB? (Excursion past 106 dB is > XMax but < Xlim).

2) What about the summing of the drivers? If the (sub)woofer and mid-woofer can each put out 106 dB continuous and 109 dB peaks, they should be able to put out 109 dB continuous and 112 dB peaks together...?

Thanks in advance,

Found these in an old Sony car amplifier. They are only good for 60 V and were in fact run from +/- 18.5 V rails. The data sheet does not even recommend them for use in audio amps: "Suitable for motor drive, DC-DC converter, power switch and solenoid drive".

Transconductance and on resistance are pretty low, so are these lateral or vertical FETs?

Can someone show me how to wire a push-pull version of the "upside-down" circuit (NOT a cathode follower) in figure-3.17B? It would be easy if the input transformer has split secondaries but what if you don't and not even a center tap? Is there a way to wire it in push-pull fashion and will it involve using two coupling caps connected to the cathodes or grids? I saw several single-ended designs and only one PP design that needs an input transformer with split secondaries.

I am not building an amplifier. I just want to understand it intellectually or how to apply or reconfigure it from SE to PP.

Hi all,

Recently i started my very own first project based on Phi by Klang und Ton design. Thread link > Help chosing high SPL drivers for 3way classic loudspeaker
Nominal sensitivity 95db @1w/1m
Xmax for speakers is 20w @115db, so we can conclude they are pretty sensitive 🙂




Now i want some sweet single ended class A amp, and choice is boiling down to couple second hand projects and one solid state.

1.
Single Ended 2x 6P6S Russian Tetrodes 2x 3.6w paired with preamp 1x ECC 82 (Tungsram or Siemens, choice will be mine). Price is 100e which is sweet deal.



2.
Single Ended 2x 6080 triodes, 2x 10w. From the looks of it, it doesnt have a preamp integrated ? Price is 199e.

The Audio Society of Minnesota will be having a meeting on Monday, October 15th at the Pavek Museum of Broiadcasting. Our special guest is John Atkinson from Stereophile, who will be discussing measurements and perception.

Please see http://www.audiomn.org for more details.

never used, played with the idea of a line array.
https://www.monacor.com/products/components/speaker-technology/hi-fi-tweeters/dt-28n/?r=pdf

I have an S/200 that has a horrible hum that goes away if I remove the ground on the power cord. I am a technician by trade but I can’t say I am familiar with audio circuitry. I can read a schematic but that don’t mean I could troubleshoot this without some suggestions.

Use of integrated darlington transistors (i.e. driver and output transistor on one die) for the output stage is frownded upon because:
- most integrated darlingtons fail to impress regarding bandwidth and beta linearity when compared to the pairing of a first rate power transistor and a first rate driver (if there are exceptions, I am not aware of them)
- one is robbed of the possibility to use a shared emitter resistor in the driver stage which speed up the turn-off of the output transistors

We also know that a triple EF (aka triple darlington) has lowest distortion because it loads the VAS less and has sufficient current gain throughout the operating regime.

So how about using an integrated darlington in TO126 or TO220 case for the driver stage, thus making a triple EF? I don't remember ever seeing an example. Are there obvious downsides? Of course, there cannot be a shared emitter resistor for the predrivers now, but then the drivers carry less current than the output devices and are hopefully faster.

Books by Igor S.Popovich SOLD!



Volume 1,2 and 3 about valve amps and building them,testing and reparing them and more.Lots of schemas!
These books cost about 50 euro a piece when new.
By the way these books are like new.
Im asking 60 euro for all 3 + shipping.

SOLD!

Hello...

Wasn't sure where to post this, since it would seem to apply regardless...
But in my case it will be a 3-way system, and for a (non standard) WOOFER re-cone.

Hoping experienced/knowledgeable re-coner types will chime in!

So... Dust-Caps....
Solid, Vented, Mesh, Heavy/light, Large/small... Plastic (poly) Paper etc...
(and anything else I haven't thought of)

What are their "properties" in terms of what characteristics do they impart?
What other factors are to be considered in choosing which type??

TIA!

Greg

Hi,
I seem to have turned into a collector of old Threshold preamps. Over the last couple of years I bought both an SL10 and then an FET 10/hl preamp and with some minor restoration found them both to be excellent.

I recently came across an FET 10e and FEt 10pe (line and phono) and picked them up and I'm in the process of restoring them. I am going through the usual routine of replacing all the power supply electrolytics, changing the ps diodes to soft recovery types and adding snubbers.

One question I had is about the proper bias for the gain stage output transistors. Both line and phone stages use a universal gain stage which was shared by Zen Mod in an earlier thread http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/167856-new-me-threshold-fet-10-hl-what-refurbish-4.html#post2228075

In the line stage, the bias for the different modules is between 12-15ma. In the phone stage, the bias seems to be a bit lower, being between 8-10ma.
It's probably not too critical but I figure I should at least balance the left and right channels so they're running at the same operating point. Anyone have a suggestion for what that should be?

Besides replacing the electrolytics, I found that the 4.7uf tantalum caps in the servo loop needed some attention. A few of them seem to have gotten a bit leaky causing some but not all of the servos to not quite zero things out. Replacing them with some new 10uf caps worked nicely in the line stage. I also did this in the phono stage. But due to the high DC gain of your typical RIAA stage, you don't get stable DC even with the servo. There is a slow DC drift which I've seen in other phono stages and which has also been described by Syn08 in his HPS 5.1 thread. Can anyone confirm that this is normal for this design?

Thanks,
---Gary

Hi guys. I am interested to build a class a or ab amp...I think!
Currently listen to class d tpa3255. I dont need all the power it can provide. Average UK living room although soeakers aren't particularly sensitive. I run through a Salas DCG3.

What would be a good start for a first build? And are there any projects with gerbers rather than boards to purchase from the States. Have recently popped my JLPCB cherry.

I wouldn't have room or budget for a massive 4u chassis for heatsink so a design with sensible currents and dissipation would be ideal. CPU heatsinks A La XRK a possibility? Some nice sinks on AliExpress 200x40x68 and 600g. Any use?

Also I get bewildered with the transistor unobtainium/matching thing so readily available preferably from Mouser would be handy.

Maybe I ask too much but if you have any advice for a start into class A then I would appreciate it.

Thanks

I am thinking about building a functional equivalent of XTZ A2-300 Edge:
- integrated power supply
- small form factor
- auto on/off based on input sensing
- adjustable gain


I will use a TPA3255 board (by 3e audio) coupled with a Connex SMPS (but will leave place to replace them with an icepower board.

I will try to build the input sensing on-off switch based on the Project 38 schematic by Rod Elliott.

I have question on the "adjustable gain" thing: what do you think it is in the original product? Is this simply a voltage divider potentiometer on the input path, or something else? XTZ A2-300 is based on Icepower 300 AS. As far as I know, it does not have any built in gain regulation.

Thanks

Hi,

How do you measure a compression driver's exit angle?

I want it to matched to my horn, but I can't find it in my CD's specs.

It's a Denovo Audio DN-250 compression driver, the one that came with many DIYSOUNGROUP kits. It's a threaded 1-3/8 18TPI, neodymiun tiny CD.

No problem if I have to take it apart.

Thanks!

I tried the search engine and i don't get the wanted info. I am looking for a DIY board kit, of class AB to drive a passive sub i DIY'd. I would take care of the power supply myself and buy a chassis and sink if needed.
An amp that includes the usual, low pass filter and level adjust features.
It's going to drive a 4 ohms 10inch sub-woofah.
Has to mix stereo channels into a single output.
Thanks!

I need a wall-adapter-based power supply, AC/AC from 120VAC to 30VAC @ .6A or higher. I need it to terminate into a barrel connector, or I can modify an available supply to include one. Any idea??

I've tried:
Mouser
DigiKey
eBay
Amazon
Jameco

and a dozen other search-result-given clearance and hobby websites. The max AC output of the products listed in the above sites is 24VAC. I wish more eBay and ALL Amazon sellers knew a thing or two about how to list electrical components for essential details!


Thanks! One more thing: There is no budget for DIY, hackjobs, etc. This is a professional project.

Hi, I understand that the svi3206 has the same pin configuration as an svi3205.

However it's not clear if a Svi3206 can work in an svi3205 amplifier.

Does anyone know if they will ?

Also..

Does anyone know if these chips can be tested out of circuit by measuring forward and reverse resistances across the pins or any other out of circuit way.

A great Brazilian Audio Designer that vanished from the internet .... He was at Geocities for long years, and had instructions how to design an amplifier, then, suddenly (2009) vanished.

People said the reason why he vainshed was because he found too many people copying and selling his stuff.... this is something that really bother us a lot.

Now a days he has a site and sell high end equipments...no more schematics, no more lessons, no more kits.

Here you can see one of his amplifiers...if you want to analise it i gonna be happy to listen your thoughts about...was hard to find this schematic, it likes he removed everything from the WEB.

Here you can see his site:

http://www.timiaudio.com.br/fmt/sca9900.htm

Sad stuff...this guy helped a lot brazilians....we had no knowledge and he was a breath of fresh air in our lives...hurts me a lot to know he give up to teach us audio electronics.... well...i can understand that, but i cannot accept because Brazil is so poor in such kind of knowledge...so poor that i am one of the famous ones and my knowledge is so small compared to Fabio Timi.

regards,

Carlos

Hello amp powers up but its in protect and has no output.

Shorted outputs or faulty protection?

Thinking about buying this amp just want a heads up on what I may be getting myself into??

I am looking to make a small P-P amp and this little circuit seems to fit the bill nicely. This will also be my first P2P wiring attempt. I will however probably purchase Broskie's PS-4 psu board.

Info HERE

First of all congratulatios for this great forum with those wonderful threads and ideas . I would like to introduce to you , my new tube power amplifier ( its not complete yet , but soon it will be ) , wich is an OTL Circlotron topology with the PL36 tubes . I use the following tubes for each channel , one EF184 or EF183 for the input stage / phase spliter following by one PCC85 as first differential gain stage following by two PCL82 as second differential gain stage ( the triode sections ) and the pentode sections as cathode follower to drive easely the output tubes wich is 10 PL36 five per each rail . Here is some fotos .

Hallo alle zusammen,
Ich habe mich schon sehr lange nicht mehr um mein Hobby kümmern können.
Jetzt habe ich wieder angefangen und will einem Freund helfen. Ich habe hier eine Erdungsprüfzange, Chauvin Arnoux CA 6417.
Was ist passiert: Ich denke da sind mal die Batterien ausgelaufen und dadurch wurden einige Leiterbahnen beschädigt. Ich konnte die Nachfädeln, denke ich. Warum denke ich, ich habe weder einen Schaltplan noch eine Platinen Ansicht.
Der Mega Cap war defekt, den konnte ich ersetzen Nach dem einschalten passiert auch was, der Spalt an der Strommesseinrichtung wird geprüft. (ist ok)
Aber dann macht er drei unterschiedliche Warntöne. WIFI geht und die Software erkennt die Messzange, aber auch wenn ich alle Alarm werte disabled bleibt ein Warnton vorhanden und Sie Misst nicht.
Ich habe mal kurz einen Wert von 9800 ohm gesehen der ist aber viel zu hoch, also dachte ich mir stimmt was mit dem Offset nicht. Dabei ist mir aber aufgefallen, dass die Speicherung des Datums nicht bestehen bleibt. Wenn ich die Batterie entferne, singt die Cap Spannung sofort unter 1, 6v und singt Schnell weiter. Laut BA soll die Speicherung aber 2 Min halten. Also denke3 ich da ist der Wurm drin. An dem Mega Cap sind 2 IC s SOT23-6 mit dem Aufdruck 312> aber ich finde nichts was passen könnte.
Hier meine Fragen und Bitten
Hat einer ein Schaltplan oder kennt jemand der einen haben könnte
Hat einer von euch eine Idee was 312 SOT 23-6 seien könnte es ist nicht das IC mit den beiden MosFet.
Hat jemand ein Hochauflösendes Bild der Platinen
Mfg John aus Taiwan



This is an English language forum. Please do not post in any other language!



Hello everyone,
I haven't been able to take care of my hobby for a very long time.
Now I've started again and want to help a friend. I have an earthing test clamp here, Chauvin Arnoux CA 6417.
What happened: I think the batteries leaked and this damaged some conductor tracks. I was able to re-thread it, I think. Why do I think I have neither a schematic nor a board view.
The Mega Cap was defective, I was able to replace it. After switching on something happens, the gap on the current measuring device is checked. (it's OK)
But then he makes three different warning tones. WIFI works and the software recognizes the measuring clamp, but even if I disabled all alarms, a warning tone remains and you do not measure.
I briefly saw a value of 9800 ohms, but it is much too high, so I thought something was wrong with the offset. However, it struck me that the date was not saved. When I remove the battery, the cap voltage immediately sings below 1.6v and continues to sing quickly. According to BA, the storage should last 2 minutes. So I guess there's the worm in there. On the mega cap are 2 IC s SOT23-6 with the imprint 312> but I can't find anything that could fit.
Here are my questions and requests
Does anyone have a circuit diagram or know someone who could have one
Does one of you have an idea what 312 SOT 23-6 could be it is not the IC with the two MosFet.
Does anyone have a high resolution picture of the circuit boards
Mfg John from Taiwan

I built two ACA's this winter and am considering taking on a more ambitious build that includes it's own power supply next winter, like a J5 or J6

But I would like to better understand what actually is going on in the amplifier circuits. I have no formal electronics training. I know the basics of electricity and circuits but struggle to really understand what is happening when I look at a simple amp schematic. My questions include basic stuff like how the audio signal is carried on the current flowing through the circuit. Voltage fluctuation? Current fluctuation? How to conceptualize the changes of current and voltage and the interaction with resistors, capacitors and transistors. Does part of the amp have AC current or is it all DC. Stuff like that.

You can see I kind of need to be taken by the hand and taught some basics.I have found some good stuff on the web like https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/ and How Amplifiers Work | HowStuffWorks , but perhaps there are better resources that the experienced folks on this site would know.

While I'm at it I'd also like to better understand the use of inductance and capacitance in speaker crossovers.

I find I feel like I really understand something electrical if I can picture what is going on with the electrons. So can anyone point me to some appropriate educational resources? If so I would be much obliged.

Hi,

As part of a sale I got a pair of KEF Reference 104.2 speakers. Basically sound except that the tweeters seem to have lost their output.
I found several sources saying that after many years the ferrofluid in those tweeters dries out and the voice coil starts to stick.

So it seems I have a choice of replacing the tweeter (there are non-KEF replacements) or renewing the ferrofluid.

Anybody here who has done this for this particular tweeter?

Jan

I think that excluding magnetodynamics, plasma, electrostatic and CD all the others that remain are planars, AMTs and ribbons, have I listed them all or have I left out some?.
is there anyone who would be kind enough to explain to me briefly
what are the differences between planar AMT and ribbon?
For example, some things come to mind:
placement in the room, reproducible frequency limits, distortion level, SPL level etc. etc.
for example which of these distorts less?
which of these can be placed against the wall?
is there a link on the net that makes a comparison and describes the differences?

All tubes test good on a TV-10D/U military tester. No shorts; all pass tests for gas & leakage. Minimum mutual conductance for both triode sections is 1400 micromhos; average conductance for a new tube is 2200. Test results in micromhos for each tube as shown in the photo from left to right are:

Raytheon: T1 = 2000, T2 = 1800
Raytheon: T1 = 2000, T2 = 1800 - ID # worn. Tube made in Japan - all other tubes made in USA.
Sylvania: T1 = 2600, T2 = 1950 - Logo very faint.
Rad-Tel: T1 = 2400, T2 = 2500
Admiral: T1 = 1800, T2 = 2150 - 12AU7 tube; no "A" suffix. All other tubes are 12AU7A.
Sylvania: T1 = 2300, T2 = 2000
Sylvania: T1 = 1700, T2 = 2200
Sylvania: T1 = 2100, T2 = 2300
Sylvania: T1 = 2400, T2 = 2350
Zenith: T1 = 2200, T2 = 2250

The lettering is worn on these but the tube numbers are readable except as noted above. Each tube has it's test results written on a blank spot on the side with a felt tip pen. This is easily removed with a Q-tip and some Windex or alcohol.

Tubes have been sold. $30 for all. First Class USA shipping is included. PayPal only please.

Hallo 'verybodies,
I ve resisted till now to tweaking my Sony DVP-s7700,also because it shows really good expensive component on its audio pcb... But the time as come...

I've just repalced the decoupling cap at the end of the signal track (47Uf SILMIC // polyester 0.2) with a Sprague 10Uf polypropilene rated for 400V ...
I'm always afraid by the cut on the lowest registers introduced by small decoupling caps, I think that I can live without the bass that the sprague have theaft...

Now the problem comes with another electrolytic that people at Sony decide to put beetween the dac (a sony cxd8799-t2) and the first stage of the BB opa2134.... also here there's a 47Uf cap.... I got another pair of that beautyfull SPRAGUE... do you think that at a DAC output a non polar cap can replace a polarized cap?

Also I wonder if anyone can predict how much bass the caps will thief in this position...
Also since that the op-amps present a dual rail supply (+9.3 and -9.4) do You think I can remove the capacitor on the output?

If anyone woul like to halp me to improve the sonic performance of this player I can post here the pics of the schematic and we can work on it togheter this will be helpfull!

Kind regards,
Domenico

PS Excuse my horrible English!
PPS Anyone know anything about the empirical audio mods on the transport part of the player? I live in Italy and I can't ship to USA this player... ( shipping+ customs duties+ and mod cost will be a too much higher price for the player real value...)

Hello DIY Audio,

I have a set of Behringer truth b3031a active monitors that I no longer listen to (just don't compare with the Continuums IIs). I'm thinking about scavenging the drivers out of them to build a new set of inactive speakers.

Try as I might, I can't find any frequency response data on the web. Before I invest in a mic and teach myself how to take the measurements, I thought I might see if anyone here knows where I can look or maybe even has the data.

And then, what do I do with the plate amps? Moreover, should I even do this...?
Cheers,
Will in Korea

I'm looking for 12" PA midbasses (for my car, but will later most likely go in a home theatre).

I want them to take some power, at least 400-600W.
Play rather deep, so I need a rather low Fs and high Xmax.
And good sound quality, maybe some shorting rings, low Mms etc.
Low impedance for car amplifiers that put out a lot at 4 Ohms.
It should play 60-500Hz well.

I have been fascinated over Xmax now for a while.
I don't really know how important it is, but I have understood, if there isn't enough Xmax, they will start to distort.

With these requirements I have found the LaVoce WAF123.03.

I would like a 4Ohm driver, but this has a close enough Re that I could use it.
3" voice coil and 1000W power handling.
97dB sensitivity and rather flat frequency response.
And 7mm of Xmax with still quite low Mms.
50Hz Fs and models relatively good in sealed enclosures.
I will get probably 25-50l in my front door, later I will go ported in my HT.

Does anyone have experience with this driver?

Or do you have some tips for me what to look for or other drivers that are better at around 100€ each?

I'm looking for a single Hitachi part that is vintage (i.e. not a Chinese or other counterfeit).

Pls PM me if you have one for sale.

THX

Hi guys,

I mainly lurk on this website because I'm not as technical as the majority of people posting here. Hopefully in time I'll have enough understanding (with the help of this site and books) to contribute something worthwhile. In the meantime, please read this when you get a chance and share what you think.

Can sound quality be measured? | The Audiophiliac - CNET News

Cheers,
Ian

This amp had a shorted output and blown power supply.

I have installed four new outputs where the shorted one was.

I have installed new power supply drivers and 47 Ohm gate resistors.

Found R99 burned open and I could not read its value. One end connects to the main ground and the other connects to the secondary ground. I have installed a 0 Ohm resistor there.

Amp goes into protection without power supply mosfets installed.

494

1) 0V
2) 5V
3) 4.457V
4) 0V
5) 1.483V Saw tooth is present
6) 3.62V
7) 0V
8) 14.3V
9) .034V
10) .034V
11) 14.3V
12) 14.3V
13) 5V
14) 5V
15) 2.046V
16) 3.911V

393

1) 5.132V
2) 5V
3) 8.135V
4) 0V
5) 2.581V
6) 2.111V
7) 5.132V
8) 14.3V

Taking Pin3 of the 494 to ground does force it to work and I have good drive to each gate pad.

I have checked each transistor for leakage and none are defective.

I could use a little help finding the fault on this one.

I’m looking for G2Si replacement ribbons. I purchased a pair of speakers from a friend on the east coast. And the arrived with a damaged tweeter and driver. I was able to replace the drivers. But I cannot find new ribbons anywhere. So here is what I’m after.*
1: replacement ribbons (2min but 4 preferred)
2: info on wether I can trim the length off the G3 tweeter and use those ribbons (all specs minus length are same)
3: A pair of replacement tweeters if anyone has a pair for sale.
4 : a good alternative to this model

Thanks in advance!

*If the info is found elsewhere please direct me. I found nothing using the search tools. But that doesn’t mean anything considering my relative noob action on forums.

Thought some of you my be interested in seeing some high-resolution measurements from my recent reviews. There is no way for me to effectively copy/paste all the text and images so I am just sharing the links below.



The HTM-12 v1 can be found here:
DIYSG HTM-12v1 Speaker Review

Note: The designer sent me the parts to upgrade to the v2 and that testing is now complete. Just needs to be analyzed and typed up.


Volt-6:
DIYSG Volt-6 Speaker Review


- Erin

Hello!

On the diagram below I checked as diodes all transistors Q619 ... Q643 and they are ok but I always have either -48V or + 48V starting with the collector of Q619 and up to the base of Q640 / 641.

Something escapes me, Any idea?

I attached measurements, I think the problem passes "through" the input (IC601A), at different restarts DC offset appears or -40V, or + 40V as I noted above, with orange I put the voltages when DC offset occurs "-", with green when it goes on "+".

The voltages are lower compared to the normal ones because I supplied them ballasted by 2 lamps 48V / 5W (they light up poorly) because Q635 or Q636 heat up one by one (Ubc = close to supply voltage due DC offset), depending on how it goes, on + or -.

Something seems irregular with the voltages on the IC601A inputs / outputs.

Somehow it is unclear to me the role of IC601A combined with (Q602 & Q603)

Hello, could someone help me? I have bought an accuphase p300 amplifier and the 1s2091 and Cz057 diodes are missing on the power board and I can't get them, someone could help me

Anybody have a good source for both the speaker and power terminal blocks for MRV1507 amps? Customer brought me 2 of these amps... I fixed one, but this second is going to not be repaired if I cannot find a donation amp or procurement source for all terminal blocks.

Thank you

Hi there,
i have an unused mordaunt-short avant 905i centre channel which i would like use as a mono speaker for music (a diy homepod/echo...without AI)
I don't have any amp, i'm cheap so i searched something on aliexpress...what do you think about this TPA3116 mono amp? AIYIMA TPA3116 100W Subwoofer Amplificatore Audio TPA3116D2 Mono Amplificatori di Potenza Digitale Amplificador Con NE5532 OP AMP|Amplifier| - AliExpress
Is a good choice? Is there any better choice? It is sold as a "subwoofer" amplifier...is it true or is in reality an universal mono amp?
Is this a good idea or i'm completely wrong?

Thank you for your help!

P.S. i'm thinking to use an old laptop PSU for power.

Hi everyone
This is my first post on this forum
I have the speakers: beyma sm115/n and jbl 2445.
So i m looking to do something with that.
I will make my self a arai 290.
I choose the sm115/n for his price, go low and high, just need big volume in bass reflex: around 200 liter.

But and this is why i write my first post here, i m look how to simulate something like VOT, and it look good on hornresp.

So in image











Do you see something wrong ?
S1 92 is not to small ? from the simulation no but hornresp doesnt calcul air velocity first from port, second from the throat wich is smaller than the port...

What do you think about ?

SM115n




The distortion go up under 55 hz that why i m thinking about something like VOT


Dimitri

I'm speculating that the SQ of my antique headphones would be improved if the iron diaphragms were replaced with a lighter magnetic material, or something like a planar magnetic diaphragm with traces. Has anyone tried something similar?

I have a wonderful 25 year old daughter who has finished college and grad school and is working in her first professional job (CPA). She appreciates music as much as I do (12 years of piano and band). She enjoys my setup and enthusiastically tells her friends (the few who are interested) about it. She has never had a stereo of her own and she's on a pretty tight budget. Like most young folks, she streams with earphones on the go, and listens through smart speakers at home. Bach's Cello Suites by YoYo Ma are her most played tracks –– because it's soothing and she can listen while working without being too distracted. But she likes a variety across many genres.

She deserves something nice for Christmas this year, and I believe it would be meaningful, in a way that may only be fully appreciated by a father and a daughter who connect through music, if I build her a decent hifi setup as my gift. I have built two amps from kits, and pretty much rebuilt my speakers, so I'm fairly confident with assembly and soldering and so forth. Here's what I'm thinking...

1. A good pair of bookshef/stand speakers from a kit with flatpack enclosure, probably two way. Decent bass response as I don't intend to do a sub right now. I'm not too worried about efficiency since the amp will probably have >100wpc.

2. A good quality Class D amp kit like Hypex or Purifi, stereo with volume control.

3. Raspberry Pi streamer, probably with a DAC HAT that can feed straight into the amp and she can control via her phone or computer.

I want great sound, of course, but I also want stuff that is durable, not fidgety or prone to needing attention. It could get cranked up at times, so I want the speakers to be able to handle what the amp dishes out. And I want it to look good, at least the speaker cabinets (I'll veneer, stain and seal).

I haven't done much research yet, so I'd appreciate ideas on which speakers and amps would be the best choices, and a low-cost DAC either mated to the RPi or stand alone (first thought is a HAT). What kits are proven and loved. My budget is around $1500 give or take a few hundred. Thanks for your thoughts and ideas.

I was not very active 2020 and 2021, the following link explans why😀
Maybe some members in or near Berlin are interested.
Ticket sales started yesterday, some tickets might be still available.
For North America, I hope my documetary will be shown in Toronto.
Best, Salar
| Berlinale | Programme | Programme - In Bewegung bleiben | Keep Moving

Hi there all, I just bought 100 BF862's on ebay, but they seem to be labeled 2AW2something (where's my microscope?...).

Is this the usual labeling?

My house was built in the 50's copper wiring and a 100 amp panel. I have noticed lights flickering and not localized to one breaker. I have replaced 90% of the receptacles and switches, no change. I hooked up my Dmm and set to min, resulting in readings as low as 109v. While my utility was slow to respond, they ultimately replaced my service (pole to house) saying the neutral was not originally done correctly. still having the flickering issue. All of the lighting has been upgraded to leds, a few CFLs, Energy star appliances etc so the overall amperage is probably lower than ever. The breakers have not tripped, ever. As a thermographer, i understand how to use thermal imaging well and can see none of the breakers are near overload. Breakers that looked "hotter" were changed. Still have the dang flickering!!!

We are in the process of getting quotes for replacing the entire fuse panel and meter panel...


The electrician is not confident that the issue will be resolved, as he feels the same way I do. That low voltage shouldn't be an issue unless I was pulling serious amperage. And even then, still shouldn't be a problem.


Any ideas folks? Was thinking of trying to log the voltage for a few days directly off the meter... dunno..

Dire Straits - You And Your Friend | High-End DIY Floor Speakers | Hi-Fi - YouTube

Sounds pretty sweet. No idea what that amp is.

There is a discrepancy in circuit diagram and PCB markings. If you look at the attached pics 10uf capacitor is wired - “minus” towards input source on the diagram but on PCB it is other way round. Which one is correct? I thought it should be like on PCB, + towards source?

Another question is there is 10 Ohm resistor from audio ground to actual ground, but all my preamps have actual ground as audio ground. This resistor will be redundant if I connect preamp. Why is it there and what happens if it is shorted?

Is there an expert out there who can help me with a circuit?
A 12volt battery operated device with two inputs, one mic (phantom powered) and one line level from a playback rig, and two line level outputs each of which can be switched independently between off - mic - line - mixed.
The outputs could have long cables, 50 metres maybe more.

Anyone know what the part number for this ic is ?

It controls the regulated 5 volts

Trying to DL it but the webpage just flickers and no more (yes I am logged in).
So any one have the latest beta and can send it to me?

Hi, i am looking for BOURNS dual gang POTENTIOMETER in mumbai,(india)
can you help me?

I wonder which kind of output transistors are used in this amp? I searched the threads and got some information on the similar amp, Rega Brio, which uses MJE3055/2955 ( that's amazing! )
I guess the bigger brother Elex may use the same transistors, can anyone give me some info. ? 🙂

I intend to add a 6AX4 damper diode in series with the plate supply rail to my DHT SET amplifiers. The graceful turn-on of the 6AX4 will of course provide a reasonably slow ramp-up of the high voltage as applied to the plates of the tubes, and will allow the mercury vapor (MV) rectifiers to warm-up before full load is placed upon them. This is a requirement when using MV rectifiers.

I have two options as to where I can locate the damper diode within the power supply circuit; within the + plate supply DC rail immediately after the MV rectifier tubes and before the filter choke (choke input filter configuration); or at the negative return of the power supply, that being between ground and the center-tap of the plate transformer.

I am of the opinion that locating the damper diode tube at either of these two locations within the circuit will make no difference in terms of it's intended purpose, that being a graceful and gradual soft-start of the high-voltage.

However, to be safe, is there a preferred or recommended location for the damper diode rectifier tube for my application? If so, why? There may be some subtlety associated with either of these two approaches that I may be overlooking, that could reduce the effectiveness of the circuit, or degrade the performance of the power supply.

Hello, I'm looking for the following drivers:

- SEAS CA18RLY
- Vifa D75MX-41 or the Scan-Speak D7608 equivalent
- SEAS 27TFFC
- A 10 or 12" TC Sounds LMS-4000 - red basket version

Singles and pairs considered. Used is fine, as long as they are in full working order and nice cosmetic condition.

I'm also looking for a fully functional Crown K1 power amplifier.

If you have any of the above, or know anyone who does, please let me know. Thanks!

I'm trying to mount a music folder onto my Daphile Music Server (Linux based).
I have created a folder volume1/Public/Media/Music.
I have created a user media and added ot to a mediausers group.
Both the group and user media have RW access to /Public.
I have enabled CIFS and NFS on the NAS.
I have setup an NFS share on the Public folder accessible from the IP of the Daphile server.
I have also set up CIFS share privelages on the same.
The settings in the Daphile UI I am using are similar to..
NFS://xxx.yyy.zzz.nnn:/volume1/Public/Media/Music
cifs://media@xxx.yyy.zzz.nnn:/volume1/Public/Media/Music with the user media's password in a seperate field.

Neither the NFS or the CIFS share is connecting.
Any ideas why please?
Regards
Clive

Hello--

Am toward the final stages of layout planning for a JE Labs Deluxe 2A3 build. This is my first "from scratch" build. While I am confident in some aspects of the layout, I am curious to hear from those who have experience in amplifier layout, especially with regard to lead dress.

The "tl;dr" here is this: Which wiring must I absolutely keep as far as possible from which other wiring, especially with regard to B+/plate, filament, and signal, and which are the ones which are more or less taken care of by proper braiding and routing?

I am struggling to choose between a layout which splits the L & R channels down the middle with a power supply section and a layout which devotes half of the chassis to the power supply, and the other half to handling of the signal.

Am also interested in first-hand experience with toroids and whether there are any general rules-of-the-road for their placement. From what I have seen in searches on the internet so far, the EMI put off by toroids seems to be negligible, and what is there is emitted out of the "hole" in the middle--i.e., elements above or below the toroid may experience interference, but not to the side.

Please see the attached photos before reading further. Obviously plenty of small components are missing from the layout. I have purposely included only the largest components.

For those familiar with the circuit, I have modified the power supply to be CLCLC.

The chassis is 10x17x3 aluminum from Hammond. The general idea is to segregate all the power supply elements to one side of the chassis. The speaker output and RCA input will be mounted vertically in the chassis to the rear of the output transformers (the white squares on my layout board). The signal input would be routed left to the corner, then down, then in front of the tubes.

Please ignore the pin count of the tubes. I still have some parts to order. There will be two sets of 3 tubes for the driver & output sections, then a single rectifier. Each 2A3 will have a coupling capacitor and a chassis resistor nearby, as shown for one.

The output transformers will be mounted on top of the chassis, along with the main (toroidal) power transformer. The power TX will favor the right and back corner. Toroidal filament transformer is directly below the main TX. To the left of the filament TX are a pair of Pete Millett's DC filament supply boards.

The two black capacitors are the driver supply; the blue 100/100uf capacitor will supply the B+ and feed the driver supply.

There are two chokes oriented vertically to the right of the rectifier tube. They can be seen in the chassis photo. They will be to the right of the rectifier tube.

My main concerns are with all of the wires that are bound to cross between the DC heater supply, the OPT, and from the AC filament supply (tap off the main TX) to the 6SN7 & 76s.

I don't have the wiring laid out because it's where I am the least confident. I have figured out how to braid solid-core wire with the help of a drill, and know that tight braiding is a best practice. I also have some shielded 18AWG wire that can be used.

If shielded wire is used, where would that be best? The (relatively) high-amperage filament supplies? The high-voltage B+?

Is shielded overkill when properly braided wire is employed?

Ground wire will run from RCA input to the tubes, then between the big black capacitors, terminating at the vertical terminal strip near the rectifier tube. This will also be running near/under/over all of the aforementioned wiring which I am concerned about. Will that be a problem?

A center layout would allow me to completely avoid all of this cross-wiring anxiety, but it would also be more cramped and results in a top-plate which I think would be less preferable aesthetically. (Forgive me!)

Is there anything I don't even know I should be thinking about but am not addressing?

Really appreciate any and all comments. Thank you!

Rohde & Schwartz UVP analyzer with 8ch switcher.
Have allmost all available options installed: K0, K1, K4, K22, B1, B2, B41.
Low distortion generator, Jitter and interface test, digital audio interface, also i2s on the rear pannel.
Manuals and software on CD-rom.
verified against Audio precision Sys 2 cascade
located in Denmark, Europe. Open for bids over 10k EUR

regards
Kim

Triode 25 - Unison Research - Official Website

I know very little about valve amps and am considering buying one. I see this well reviewed amp has an output impedance of 6 ohms... Is this before or after the transformer? I can't fathom a damping factor that ranges from 0.7-1.5 for my various speakers.

Is output impedance usually specified? If so is it usually before or after a transformer?

I noticed that Madison Sound is out of stock on the 10P. Does anyone know if they were they discontinued?

Hey guys,

I want to switch to an active crossover ciruit and need your help choosing the right amp board. The crossover frequency will be around 1900Hz.

Current setup

• 2x Dayton Audio RST28F-4
• 2x Dayton Audio RS180S-8
• 2x DiyAB Honeybadger
• DIY DAC and preamp

My plan is to use the Honeybadgers to drive the Woofers and buy/build additional amps for the Tweeters.

Do you think it makes sense to use two extra Honeybadgers for the Tweeters or should i get another amp for them?
It would be nice to get a similar specced amp (apart from output power) that is smaller in size and/or cheaper to build.

Any recommendations are helpful and appreciated!

Cheers,
Martin

Am new to electronics and playing with them.

Which I suppose means I should anticipate "burned by the stove" type lessons lol

Well I was "burned by the stove" today and learned an important, however fundamental lesson today lol

Verify circuits prior to powering dut.

Just made a simple resistor bank to dump amp power into.

first iteration and testing went well. used an older amp and all went nearly as expected. issue being one of the resistors was getting hotter than the others.

The resistors are 8oh 100w and I thought I had them wired as 2s2p. However only by happenstance I had wired and connected them such that it actually only 8ohm 100w, the other three resistors in the bank were bypassed because of how I connected.

So anyways I redo the resistor circuit and am super confident is correct.




I connect the speaker wire to the resistor bank(s) and amp outputs, toss on the input signal and turn up the power.....cue -20db or so and clicky pop poof and some smoke.

DOH!!!

This AVR was from my second ht setup. not intended to be the dut to practice / play with without care if it breaks.

So first examined it.
Thankfully, no visible damage. the power output transistors of JUST the left channel are both three way shorted. and one side of the dual emitter resistor is open.

I audited a few smaller components I believe are in the path and those checked out fine.

I ordered up the power transistors / dual resistor i'll find in some other amp am sure.




So onto what went terribly wrong.

To help my simple brain I put the circuit into a diagram. I knew which resistor bank was used for the left channel, the one confirmed that blew, right channel is fine. Immediately I thought I must have somehow* connected the left channel as a short.
such as imaged below. Absolutely plausible given the "mess" the resistor bank is.




*But I absolutely recalled checking the ohms specifically as the amp would see, that is including the speaker wire; and BOTH channels were exact same 8.3 ohms (Bank is 8.0-8.1)

So, checked out how it was actually wired, and it was same as imaged next below.



Only other thing I can think of is a strand of wire possible fell into the amp and some how shorted out just the left channel power transistors and emitter resistor.

So think it's most likely how I had the left channel connected to the resistor bank that caused it to fail.

The right channel was connected symmetrically, and it didn't blow out.

So is the resistor bank the left channel was connected to not correct? is it because of the yellow highlighted connection?

Also I suppose, since not experienced with resistor failure and especially of these values, perhaps they can measure fine with dmm but under load different story. Is that possible?

So far, while less dynamic an experience, I think 200$ in electronics education would have been better value here lol (here's hoping it will be fixed with the replacement power transistors and emitter resistor lol)




(I have quite an imagination; I envision a possibility is independent resistors not having same value. in that...
firstly, electricity likes to flow the path of least resistance.
the circuit, as the left channel is connected, depends on each paralleled sub-circuit's resistors be of nearly exact resistance. AND that that difference in resistance is more crucial the higher the power.
so in this case, perhaps the wiring of the left channel's resistor bank's sub-circuit with the yellow highlight is exacerbating any difference in resistance value.
And with that, the resistance was all wonky dependent on the power put through it....hmmmm I wonder lol

Hi guys, it's me again!

I decided, while waiting for my TPA3255 system to arrive (I tell myself I need to finish one project before ordering parts for a new one), to attempt to miniaturize ESP's P113 with some SMT parts and combine it with a PSU on the same board.

Gain has been set to 4.3 as per ESP's instructions as stock gain is way too high. All resistors are 1/4w 1206 except the 10R output resistors and the 0.1uF SMT caps are 0805 X7R. I also swapped the output transistors for MJE15032/33s. The PSU section uses two Meanwell IRM 15v units plus a CLC filter afterwards to get rid of the remaining noise, drawing inspiration from here. Middle hole is center of ground for the board and is meant to connect to chassis ground.

I uploaded the project to my GitHub here and the changelog can also be found there. Feedback would be appreciated as this is my first time laying out an amplifier. Thanks! 😀

Hi, I’m new here. I’m building my first speakers based on a Visaton kit - twin woofer, 3-way, sealed enclosure, curved sides, kinda complicated crossover (I’m not using the pre-assembled one that comes with the kit). I’m pretty new to woodworking and electronics, so figure I’m going to need a bit of help along the way 🙂