10uf HV Peter Moncrief Stealth Caps. Audio Research Custom Made

I have a bunch of these Custom Made Peter Moncrief Stealth caps that are pulls from Audio Research equipment. they are 10uf and rated for 310V or 425V i can't remember. they were used as output coupling caps in their top line equipment and arguably the best sounding caps they ever had! I have heard they work well in power supplies too but I have not tried that.

$20ea, discounts for 5+ will ship worldwide.

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Seas 27TFFC in ProAc Studio 100 clone?

Hi folks,


I have built a pair of ProAc Studio 100 clones (crossover should be correct) but using the newer (available) version of the ScanSpeak Classic => 8542-10 instead of 8542-00 and also Seas 27TFFC instead of 25TFFC. Generally I am very happy with the result, only I struggle with the top end as it seems unnaturally harsh to me (or maybe my ears have been f***ing with me for a long time now). So now I saw that Falcon is selling the 25TFFC again and thought this might solve my problem. Before ordering I wanted to ask if someone has any thoughts on this. Would be much appreciated.


Thanks!

Audio adjacent tube idea

I've got this crazy idea, and this seems like the audience most likely to have the clues I don't.

I can't go into much detail yet (because I'm still figuring things out, and the details barely make sense in my own head), but I have a sensor where accuracy matters. The frequency at which it responds is susceptible to creep due to changes in temperature; hotter = slower because the elements expand and vice versa . As is, I'm using transistors to amplify the signal, and then there's a feedback section. I recently started dabbling in this tube stuff, and got a crazy idea to use vacuum tubes in the circuitry to intentionally get it all good and hot, but the heat would be more consistent, and I think it would self regulate as a function of the current applied AND as the resistance of the heater filaments increases with higher temperatures.

Q1: Is that crazy?

The whole thing lives in a small unventilated and somewhat insulated box leading to:

Q2: If I were to use tube rectification (both for the DC current, but also for the heat), and a dual triode in place of the two transistors in the applicable section, would I be running into issues with too much heat? Would a single dual triode be enough heat on its own to achieve the regulatory effect I'm after?

Strange problem with McIntosh C29 phono stage

Hi all, can I get a moment from the hivemind here? This one has me a bit mystified.

I've got a C29 with odd low frequency rolloff in one channel of the phono stage. In this model the gain stage can be set to phono 1, phono 2, or microphone. I've attached sweeps of all three modes, as well as a drawing. There's a significant dip around 30Hz in one channel but not the other. This dip exists in both phono 1 & 2 but not when set to mic.

Here's what I've done:
Replaced all the electrolytics with good parts, even went so far as to measure the new shunt feedback caps to make sure my new parts are OK.

Replaced the shunt feedback resistors with a hand picked matched pair of 51.1Ω resistors (4 wire ohmmeter).

Opamps are new 5534s, but the old ones showed the same behavior.

I've taken the opamps out of socket and verified the feedback network resistance from pin 6 to pin 2 - channels match.

Rails are fine at +/-18V

What am I missing? Thanks...

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Valve for Marshall AVT275 amp

I have this transistor amplifier, Marshall AVT275, with a valve pre-amp. I bought it used over 5 years ago, and I think it's time to sell the amp, and to replace the valve. But, I'm having trouble getting info about it. What I do know is that it is a 12ax7, dual triode. The valve itself says "Marshall VLVE-00041 WK14". Can I get just any 12ax7?

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Amp with power on. Not much glow. Lit room.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Amp with power on. Un-lit room.

Thanks in advance 🙂

Battery type for portable use ... SEALED LEAD ACID battery or 18650 cells?

Hi

Attempt to build another set of portable speaker again but this time will be totally battery powered because i wanted to use it outdoors where no power source is available besides having my car nearby to charge it incase of backup (12V only of course) . I will use TPA3116D2 or TPA3110D2 (2units) because i will be running them in Biamp. Comes to Question now, between SEALED LEAD ACID battery or 18650 which is better in terms of safety, reliability, playtime and charging methods? thanks alot

Seeking user experience on Hybrid SRPP

Hi All,

I've been reading about Ale's hybrid mu follower on the Bartola Valves website with interest. I'm sure it works very well, but it's complex enough that I would probably prefer to go all tube.

I'd like to try something a bit simpler and have a bunch of DN2540's in my junk box. Merlin Blencowe discusses a hybrid SRPP/mu follower similar to the one below in his tube preamp book, and I think it might be just the ticket. BTW I cannot recommend his book enough, it is up there with the best, a great read.

I'd be very interested to hear from anyone with experience using a circuit similar to that shown below, particularly with respect to distortion, sound and performance at high frequency. In simulation it appears pretty decent in the audio band at least, particularly with the 6SN7 below running at reasonable current.

Appreciate your thoughts.

Greg


1645102639161.png
Seek

Queries following Marantz CD63 Service Mode

Please excuse any subsequent technical naivety/dumb questions, I've repaired a few hi-fi items in the past but only by following online instructions rather than having any inherent tech skills. I've owned a Marantz CD63 for many happy years, just recently it has started to misbehave with a minor skip here and there. Sometimes if I rewind it will skip at the same point, sometimes not. All other functions appear fine, disc tray opens and closes smoothly, all controls are fine.

I have been going through the Marantz Service Mode to try and identify Error codes but encountered a few hiccups.
1) I am assuming when it refers to CUE and REVIEW keys it means either fast forward or reverse? Also the sheet mentions Conditions such as RADIAL OFF/ON, I'm not sure what that means. Can anyone confirm or correct me on these two questions?
2) if 1) is true then immediately there appears to be a problem in Mode 0 (Display P00) where the sled does not move outside when I press forward or reverse for (CUE, REVERSE). It correctly moves to Mode 1 (Display P01) when I press the Next button. The "Conditions" appear to be met at Mode 0.
3) At Mode 1 all the Conditions appear to be met, I can hear a faint clicking which I assume is the FOCUS ON?
4) At Mode 2 all the Conditions appear to be met, the spindle is now spinning.
5) At Mode 3 the Conditions appear to be met. However, on pressing the CUE key (which I'm assuming means fast forward) the sled is supposed to move outside - it doesn't, I get the track fast forwarding. See point 1, am I making incorrect assumptions about CUE and REVIEW keys?
6) Finally, in Mode 3 the service sheet indicates that if I press Play then it will display an error code - it doesn't it just stops the disc spinning. I guess this might mean it simply hasn't identified any errors or is there something I am missing?

In summary, I would welcome any input on whether I am interpreting the Service Mode instructions correctly or not and also whether anyone might have any thoughts on what is causing this intermittent, fairly infrequent skipping. I apologies for the lengthy description but felt it would be better to try and be as accurate as possible in describing the problem. Thanks in advance.

Inverting opamp grounding practice?

How should the non inverting pin be grounded in a typical opamp feedback regulator circuit? So far i star grounded it to the output cap and threw ground plane on most other nodes. But i wonder if the non inverting pin should be joining them instead.

Heres the circuit im using btw. Rjm audio's x-reg

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Amp/receiver suitable for Bose 251

Hi,

Recently, I got 4 Bose 251 for my restaurant at the beach. I ended up buying a XMP100 to power the speakers. I`m not audio newbie, so I don`t know a lot of it. The results are not what I expected, so how can I get the best performance out of it? Connectig serial or parallel the speakers?

This are the specs:

Bose 251:


  • 10W-200W.
  • 4/8 Ohms.

XMP100:


  • 75W per channel 8 Ohms
  • 50W per channer 4 Ohms
  • 160W 8 Ohms in bridge mode

Motorola Stereo Console Speaker repurpose

As the title says I am repurposing a Motorola tube type record player. The record player has a burned out motor and I really don't want to mess with it. I have a good handle on the on the little single ended 6BQ5 amp. My goal was to use the amp and speakers for a small office amp. Like I said i think I have a pretty good handle on the amp but would really like to reuse the speakers.

I said it about the amp amd now I'll say it about the speakers, I have no "Grand Illusion" as to the fidelity of the speakers. I have them and would really like to reuse them.

The question is what size box do I need to house these speakers? I would like to keep them as 2 way, nothing elaborate.

Any help or guidance will be greatly appreciated.

Here are a few pictures of the speakers. I may even try to save the grill cloth.

BL

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Line level bandpass filter

Hi there!

I have done a deepdive in individually addressable RGB leds. I want to build a graphic visualizer. The simplest way at this point seems an arduino with analog inputs and analog line level filters. There are 6 analog inputs, so I want 6 bands. Since the audio fidelity is not important, I am thinking of a very simple 1st order RC filter, but I can't find if that would be suitable for line level audio. Anyone who can help me out?

Thanks!

recap an old Adcom GFA-555

I have two GFA-555 amplifiers in working condition. One is driving lows in my DIY active speakers, the other one is a floater used on as needed basis.
I recently used the floater and while it worked fine, I noticed that upon turning it off, it cut the sound within a second or less. I remember it in the past coasting for quite a few seconds after cutting power, which to me means the power supply caps are shot and possibly other electrolytics on the circuit boards are bad too. Considering its age (25 years or more) that would be expected. So my question is, what's the most cost effective way of refurbishing the amps? I'm OK with basic soldering, but I don't do it regularly. Should I seek out professional service providers or is it a straight forward repair and I should give it a shot myself?

Advise for two way with dynamics and wide directivity

Hello,

After having built two pairs of full)-rangers (Jordan VTL and MLTL), I'd like to give a try to two-ways.

This is following a recent blootooth speaker build were I used a 8" woofer cross at 180Hz and enjoyed the punch. My full-rangers are seconded by a 12" sub which works great, but closing at 80Hz the punch in the 80-200Hz range isn't comparable.

Constraints:
  • Wall mounted, max 15x35x120 (6"x 13.5" x 47")
  • Due to low thickness no toe-in possible (unlike my folded VTLs which are also wall-mounted)
  • High dynamics and punch
  • Go looooow (there won't be any sub added unlike my other speakers)
  • Best possible off-axis response (due to wall placement w/o toe-in)


I had a look at Fountek NEO CD 3.5H and was wondering with which woofer to pair them, with a reasonable budget (not more than the fountek price)... 8 et 12" can fit and the total volume is more or less 33l.

Not decided on closed or BR, maybe more closed for more punch/less volume as it will be fed by bi-amping and DSP.

Fountek idea comes from the directivity of this speaker, but maybe there are other choices.

Thx!

F.

Confused about selecting an input selector switch

I want to be able to switch between ~3-5 inputs and only have the active ground/return connected at any given time. I know it would be easier to keep all grounds connected and simply switch the input wire, and I'll do that if this proves too complicated, but I wanted to give this a try.

As I understand, I should connect the ground wire first before connecting the signal. So the switch should go as follows:

State 1:

Signal 1 connected
Ground 1 connected
Signal 2 disconnected
Ground 2 disconnected

State 2:

Signal 1 connected
Ground 1 connected
Signal 2 disconnected
Ground 2 connected

State 3:

Signal 1 disconnected
Ground 1 disconnected
Signal 2 connected
Ground 2 connected

The trouble is, I don't know how to translate that into the specs on a switch. I assume I would need something with two decks, one for the signal and one for the ground, and have the ground deck shorting and the signal deck non-shorting?

WTB Non-Working Car Audio Amplifiers

Hello All,

I am wanting to buy a few non-working, complete, car audio amplifiers. I am learning car audio amplifier repair and I have had no luck finding any locally to practice on.

I have actually bought a couple off of Ebay that were listed as not working, but wouldn't you know it, they were fine. Anyway, let me know what you have.

Continental U.S. only, due to shipping charges.

Thank you.

Cathode follower and cables

I'm building a little buffer/preamp box for guitar with a cathode follower output since I have assumed that was good for driving cables. But while looking at valve microphone discussions , I find that valve mics use transformers (or ss circuits) to drive their cables rather than cathode followers because CF distort at high levels/frequencies when faced with cable capacitance. I realise I may be mixing chalk and cheese here and there's a lot going on I simply don't have the knowledge to understand... but my question is , is it ok to drive cables with say a 12au7 CF?

Sony CX20197

Hi everyone!
I am looking for some info on the above Sony IC-s. Unfortunately tehere is close to nothing can be found on the web. All I know, is that it is a dual opamp, with +/-15 supply voltage, GBW: 40 MHz, SR: 20V/uS ratings. The reason: It sounds damn good... :hphones: In a DAC output stage it "overperformed" almost every modern, well respected dual opamps I've tried as far as speed, dynamics, and liveliness is concerned.. (in my system, of course 😉) Sony used these in some better CD players, and audio processors in the 80's.
If anyone has some more info or experience with these, please share with us....

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Another NAD 3240PE mystery

I've had this 3240PE integrated on my bench for a while now.

The symptom is that it has high offset on the right channel. 36 volts. Wow.
Checking the rails, the high voltage rails appear to be correct - + 76V and -76V

The positive low voltage rail is screwy - at +60V. The negative voltage rail is correct at -43 V.
Thinking that it could be a leaky component from the high voltage side, I disconnected PTC1 and PTC2, which disconnects the +/- 76 V rails.
But the difference in the low voltage rails persists.

Now, the offset is way lower in the right channel at +6V but it also appears in the left channel with the high voltage rails disconnected.
Any ideas from the experts?

Schematic for reference:
3240 chematic_alt.jpg

DIY Custom Crossover Service

Does any one know who provides high-end custom crossover service for Parallel and series crossovers for 2 and 3-way designs? Troels and Tony no longer provide this service.

Looking to design a 3-way passive crossover:
- Crossover points: 200Hz, 2.0kHz.
- 2nd order acoustic, parallel.
- MT cab: front baffle 10.5”(W) x 15”(H). 15L, sloped 7-deg.
- W cab:15”(W) x 30”(H). 90L
- Target sensitivity 90dB+

Scan-Speak 32W/8878T11 13” Woofer
Scan-Speak 18M/8631G00 7” Midrange
Scan-Speak D2908/714000 Beryllium Tweeter

Thanks

Harman-Kardon citation eleven (preamp) hum and hiss! help

Well, not an amplifer but still places itself in the solidstate category.

Read about this and obviosly this is a classical issue, EQ section sound really bad, constant hum (50hz) and hiss on high volume. if bypassed with bypass switch it actually sounds pretty nice.

Now.... this is an early model whitout any mods, and! i also read about HK being very productive in this era, solving problems etc etc.
So maybe there is some awesome! HK fanatic lurking in theese forums sitting on the answer how to overcome this issue the correct, or "the HK way" since the later models seems to have a totally different pcb layout and so on.

i have measured every elytic capacitator in the unit, the PS board and the big 1000uf caps really measue good but still old, for the rest they have been changed to better ones (some had esr over 10ohms), the goal is to solve the hum problem and then recap with proper hq caps everywhere.

Have a nice day, and thanks in advance! //Jonas

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Dual DC KSA100 ebay improvement help

Hello, I bought this 120W mono amp from ebay.
Dual DC 32V 2SA1943 2SC5200 120W Mono Channel KSA100 Amplifier Board DIY Kits | eBay

Does not sound to my expectation. Middle and high frequency is not transparent enough. I made ltspice simulation so i would like to try to improve it.

I'm not happy with frequency response 🙁
It's possible to fix somehow ?

REAL measurement:
frequency response
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spectrum 1kHz
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limitation 1kHz 4ohm
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square 1kHz 4ohm
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square 10kHz 4ohm
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Simulation frequency
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Schematic
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Attachments

Distortion Cancellation and Input Stage Topology

Hi All,

I am trying to come up to speed with tube/valve design techniques, particularly zero feedback SET amps. To do this I am investigating circuit behavior and operating points with LTSpice. Let me state upfront that I recognise SPICE is not the be all and end all, but as a tube noob it's the best I have without spending anything.

I would like to make a zero feedback SET 300B amp with the best distortion performance possible for the least circuitry. I am ok with that including a buffer stage, either cathode or source follower. I'm also ok with the odd solid state part here and there if needed.

I see lots designs on the web using a CCS or cascode front end, some with a subsequent buffer, some driving the 300B directly. I appreciate that these input topologies provide more gain and/or PSRR. However, my spice simulations sugggest that these are inferior to a simple resistor loaded common cathode input coupled to a buffer stage (for distortion at least). It seems that while a CCS or cascode may improve the distortion of the input stage, it does not improve overall distortion as the output stage distortion is not cancelled.

This leads me to the conclusion that a good topology is a simple resistor loaded common cathode input coupled to a buffer stage, either cathode or source follower. Since there is no CCS, the input tube must be high gain and the power supply well filtered. Maybe a 6SL7.

Is this how it plays out in practice or:

1) Am I kidding myself thinking that I can get enough voltage swing from a simple resistor loaded 6SL7 to drive a 300B, using say a 2V RMS source? This would be coupled to a source or cathode follower to provide the current needed to properly drive the 300B.

2) Does the distortion cancellation work as well as the simulations suggest, or should we really be trying to minimise distortion in the input stage using a CCS, cascode, etc?


Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Greg

Headunit/EQ issue

I have an Alpine head unit with a built in eq/crossover . I set the eq on the headunit to flat . I wanna use a Rockford Fosgate symmetry epx2 for the preamp crossover and eq instead of the headunit since I can load different eq settings and at the push of a button I can switch setting depending on what type of music I listen to . Also I can set the boost to minimum at 45 hz if I don’t want so much bass instead of adjusting the eq settings all the time on head unit .

Wondering if using the symmetry with the head unit I have is causing the issue with low output out of the symmetry or there is an issue with the symmetry itself .
Any thoughts ?

Advice on using 6AR6 and/or 6V6

Good evening

My brother gave me the amp or one very similar to this one:

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/chinese-single-ended-class-a-questions.278409/
I would like to use, if possible, 6ar6 or 6v6 tubes as I have lots of them.

I can change the wiring for the 6ar6 but am concerned (from googling) about the screen voltage for the 6ar6 and all voltages for the 6v6.

My tube knowledge is minimal but I can follow instructions and will not electrocute myself.

Thanks for looking, mouse.

mod NAD C520 (I'll add spdif input)

Hi everyone 😉

I want to improve the sound quality of my computer:
I just have a old Fortissimo II sound card (whith a spdif output), linked to an NAD amp (2 cinch analogic link) and JMLab speakers.
I can't buy a better sound card or a nice dac, no money :dead:

But i have an old NAD C320 i don't use (the cd reader is tired and jump times to times). I want tu use the DAC there is inside (PCM1710U) whith my spdif output 🙂

This is the interesting part (from service manual)

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We can see the cd driver (LC78621) connected to the dac with the 3 wires. The dac generate the clock and give it to the cd driver.
The Quartz for LC78621 is wired but there isnt the Quartz and capas (the clock come from the dac^^)

There is my project:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


I add a CS8416 to decode spdif.
I remove the dac's quartz and use the clock from the 8416.
The 8416 can choose between 2 spdif input: 1 from the cd driver and 1 from outside (coax plug).
I add the quartz for the cd driver
I remove mute transistors (not in picture, just before stereo output), mute is controlled my an other chip.

I don't test this (waiting for 8416^^), but it's the 1st time i work with digital audio signals.
Do u think i forget something? will it work? 😀 (and sorry for bad english^^)

Journey and Goldmund .....

Be prepaired this one is going to be long .....

MY diyaudio journey ages 25 this year ...that is a long time ...through these years i got the chance to interract with some wonderful people ...

--Obeserved the first mistakes of CarlosDX and the way he snaped out of them( polite and cheerful person )
--Having huge arguments with AndrewT where obviously Andrew was right and i was wrong bless his soul
--Observing NP's work , approach , target group, and traps installed by him in his comercial products
--Some work with Rod ESP products
--some with Wahab
--Some interesting things with the Dutch family ( i like the Ducth i think that they are very nice ppl )
--met Jan Dupont what a grate guy !
-- Long and deep emails with Hugh Dean
--Pointless arguments with Dr Bora
--Niko Russ and Bob Carver that actually exchanged a few emails with to discover that Bob eventhough a legent spared some time to advance one of my projects
--Spoken to Tim De Paravichini on the phone ( bad bad expierence a very arrogant person )

Though met some also very grate people that said just a few things that changed my approach for life ,without additute and some words written without sauce : Bob Cordel ,John Curl and many more with deep knowledge and a humble and low profile .

At 55 today collecting all these info for such a long time from so many different people made me a better repair man .... With above 2500 repaired/restored machines every year in my company i think i am setting the standards in the repair industry in my country and notice that Greece is a small country and been in economical issues for years now ...

But it doesn't stop there ... to repair or restore 2500 machines means that you talk with way too many people to get there ...
So i collect that also
Which amplifier versus type of mysic, versus topology , versus power ,versus class of operation,versus speaker and so on and on
what people in class A?
what people in classAB?
why some of them still in almost class B?
,who finds pleasure in New class A and why ,
Why there still audience For NAIM or musical Fidelity products and so on and on ( sorry i had to write that 😀😀😀😀😀😀 )

That made me a better repair man , that also made my tunings better ,that made my upgrades better ( stollen all the secrets from expensive models and apply them to the small models ) and of course that made my suggestions on the amplifier choice questions very very correct as long as i had the above questions answered my suggestion was 1000% correct .

So after that long intro i will guarantee that there will be no listener that finds pleasure in house music and have or like a Goldmund mimesis amp ....house music require beefy , kicky and speedy bass , super crisp and fast high , while middle area is an area of no interest ...This is the exact opposite of what a mimesis can do....
Listeners that like Goldmund mimesis will go for vocals , strings and pianos , saxes and other blown things 😛,in general things in the "classic area "
So the mimesis is a European version of a Sanyo Plus 55 or a bit more sophisticated version of a HAfler DH200... there is no magic here or a circuit that was delivered from NASA .... Also if check the audience of Sanyo Plus 55 , Hafler DH 200 and Goldmund you will notice that the listening porogram is the same ....

So to my understanding a Goldmung mimesis didnt deserve such an extensive thread arround him or a group for resurrecting the weird and badly constructed module from the dead ......

Now from the long P3A journey i have learned that listeners in general will comment a symmetrical vas as very accurate result while they will comment a bootstrap as a more musical result .... for undifined reasons a "more friendly to the ear result " without explanation if this is right or wrong ....

So i converted for a client a "module broken" mimesis, to a mimesis /ESP 101 hybrid .... The input stage is one LTP ,then a bootstrap Vas , a bias scheme , then the drivers ,protection and output is original Goldmund ..... Distortion is very very low , bandwidth exceeds 100 k , bias is 60ma per tranistor 240 total ...circuit is solid rock and stable , client enjoys the amp driving a pair of Harbeth which is a very detailed speaker and will reveal many details or mistakes if exist but on the other hand easy to drive .

Client states that next to the Goldmund the bass is far more controlable and accurate and the highs have 2clicks of more sweet sound than the original circuit while in the middle area almost nothing changed next to the original circuit ...
so the client is my age and been in the sport for 40 years with many systems and he had the same things in his mind about Harbeth ...which as said above is a revealing speaker but easy to drive in general ..

So he took the amp for a test drive in a friend's house to drive a pair of b&w dm 604 s3 ...Obviously the amp didnt have the power to drive completely the
B&W But the picture was alike and at some points even a bit sweeter in highs next to the Rotel RB991 that existed to the friend's house .Up to a point the drive ability was fine but not enough ....

Nobody asking for a schematic now, it's not going to happen !
The point of the thread is to make some people think out of the box and start thinking that there might be other solutions to a given problem.

Above all i have to thank people that done the same to me and you for reading the story

Sakis

Shanling SP-80C Problem - DC Spikes?!

Dear all,

I have a problem with my Shanling monoblocks where sparadically whilst playing music at moderate volume i hear a loud instantaneous sound like a dog yelping!

The noise occurs at irregular times and is independent of the music volume. The most likely cause would seem to be the amplifier going open circuit very briefly and dumping a large DC through the speaker outputs.

I have replaced all valves, but this has had only limited effect, and have examined the internal PCB's, with nothing looking untoward. Unfortunately the amps are China imports so no warranty can be claimed.

Has anyone experienced this, or can suggest possible cause or remedy? If anyone has a circuit diagram that would be of great help?

Thanks in advance

  • Article Article
Are switched mode power supplies noisy?

If you believe Benchmark's marketing then the answer's a definite 'no' - https://benchmarkmedia.com/blogs/ap...audio-myth-switching-power-supplies-are-noisy

However if you read further down, they do admit that 'many switching supplies are noisy'. They put this down to older designs using lower switching frequencies and 'low cost' designs like USB chargers. So they recommend that switching supplies be optimized for audio applications.

Nowhere in that article is there any mention of common-mode noise. That could be because its not really an issue when the inputs of an amp are balanced (via XLRs) as they are in Benchmark's AHB2 amp, which is their exemplar of 'switching PSUs done right'. With balanced ins, pin1 (direct to chassis) on the XLR takes care of any 'leakage' current and so the conductors carrying audio (pins2 and 3) are unaffected. However if the inputs to an amp are unbalanced then there are only two conductors available to carry leakage (common-mode) currents, both of which are in the audio circuit. Since practically all equipment I have has only unbalanced ins/outs the issue of CM noise is a major concern to me.

Common-mode currents arise because the oscillator in the SMPSU is connected to the primary of the power transformer and so inherently capacitively couples to the secondary via transformer parasitics. Here's a technical treatment : https://www.eetimes.com/power-tip-47-tame-conducted-common-mode-emissions-in-isolated-switchers-part-1. CM currents are ultrasonic, they can be seen on FFTs which look over a wide enough bandwidth or where the noise floor is low enough in the audio band. For example Exasound characterize their DACs both with and without galvanic isolation on the USB input and show the difference this makes on the FFT within the audio band : https://www.exasound.com/portals/0/Images/e32-Measurements/exaSound-e32-noise-no-isolation-800.png. With USB isolation there's no 'grass' above ~-168dB : https://www.exasound.com/portals/0/Images/e32-Measurements/exaSound-e32-Noise-Floor-800.png. These two plots indicate there must be some CM->DM conversion taking place as CM (presumably coming from the PC as USB host) won't show up on a typical DM measurement.

Suppressing CM noise currents isn't very straightforward and the EETimes article points out why - they are sourced from a very high impedance. So high impedances are needed to make a dent in their magnitude. Ferrite beads (for example) are useless as their impedance typically tops out around 1kohm. The first line of defense against CM noise is a CM choke and a typical insertion loss plot looks like this :

image_2022-02-18_141355.png


The different lines represent different current ratings, the one with the highest loss has the lowest current rating. Notice above roughly 1MHz all these different current rating chokes behave about the same - their parasitic capacitance determines their insertion loss. They all have SRFs (self-resonant frequencies) between 100kHz and 700kHz, the frequency where their stray capacitance resonates with their inductance.

To improve the HF performance its a standard technique to segment the windings - with two segments on each side the insertion loss plot looks like this :

image_2022-02-18_142731.png


More segments are possible of course but I've not seen any commercial CM choke with more than two. These two plots are from Murata devices designed for power lines - signal line chokes with high insertion losses close to the audio band aren't so easy to find. However on signal lines, transformers can do a reasonable job of increasing the CM impedance.

Update :

The EEtimes article has a substantial number of images with broken links, here's a document which helps make up for the lack of schematics and waveforms : http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.123.2941&rep=rep1&type=pdf. Page 1-8 and onward are most relevant in the treatment of CM noise currents.
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Preamp or turn SSE into an integrated?

Hello all, I built an SSE last year and have been very pleased with it. My only real complaint is that I have to physically disconnect and reconnect cables if I want to listen to different sources. So I'm thinking of a building or buying a preamp. The other possibility is to just add a few more inputs and a source selector to the SSE (and possibly a headphone out). Right now, I have just two sources, an SL-1200>Schiit Mani and a TEAC NT-505 streamer/DAC. The TEAC has balanced outs along with SE outs.

So I'm here to solicit advice from fellow Tubelab owners on how they handle their source selects and get some ideas.

I'm considering the following preamps: Bottlehead BeePree (or new Moreplay?), Transcendent Sound Masterpiece, one of the Aikido boards, a Schiit Freya +, or a passive Nobsound.

Seems like a lot of choices, and I may be all over the map on this...What is everyone else using, and how do you like it?

Thanks,
-Jeff

BTW, I recently was able to A/B my amp against a Hegel H90 and while the Hegel definitely had better control of the woofer, the SSE sounded smoother and more lifelike to me..

The Hilding horn

Actually i prefer 2-way speakers, like large lf drivers and large boxes.
But there is something very special with fr drivers, larger ones that can deliver real lf to are sparse, i havent heard any since Coral Beta 10 and Beta 8, these are unobtaiable today.

Stumbled on this tiny one when working on the quite large Experience Live cinema speaker project.

FaitalPRO - Professional Loudspeakers Made in Italy

So, what to do whit this one then?

Test it to find out how it sings.

Quick and dirty, glue it to one end of a large russian toiletpaper core.

3FE202.jpg


Sound below a normal A awfull or nonexisting, but above that, really astonishing.

What do we do then?
Rear loaded horn? Why not!

Maybe like this?

Horn3FE22.jpg

RCA RRF241 N-Gate MOSFET Specs???

I have a ton of RCA RRF241 N-Gate MOSFETs
...
On my Atlas DCA55 Semiconductor tester it identifies these as N-Gate MOSFETs (I think the RRF241 is a house number - just because a web search turned up nothing) the DCA55 tells me they have a Gate Threshold Vgs=3.34Volts.
TO-66 Case is Drain.
...
I would like to find someone with a Spec Sheet for these. If I can I would like to use them...(Instead of Recycling Them)
..
Can anyone out there help me with a datasheet?
..
RCA has been split up - so that is a dead end.
...
Thanks in advance : Dave R Mason aka: Dataman19 and Dataman1 (I had to reregister because I cannot recover the Dataman19 account.

Unity Gain Buffer Design Problem

I am not sure if this is the right forum for this issue but if not please redirect me.
I made a simple unity gain buffer with 5 parts for an interface between dut’s with a few hundred ohms output impedance and an e1da cosmos adc which also happens to have low impedance (350 ohms in mono mode @2.7v setting). So I wanted a buffer with high input impedance and low output impedance for the obvious reasons.
This circuit uses just an lm4562 with + input to ground by a 100k ohm resistor. Output has a 10 ohm series resistor.
There are 2 10uf caps as bypass from V+ to ground and V- to ground. It is unity gain so no resistor in the negative feedback loop.
That’s the whole thing. Using 2 9v batteries to power it all is good. However when I try powering it with a +-15v bench supply or a SilentSwitcher(+-15v) with no source or load the output and of course the - in tied to it got to -14.xxx v.
One even overheated when I accidentally left it on.
I am a 70 year old noob but If the op amp can’t make both inputs equal I think it saturates and goes to one of the rails but why is it doing this? The Lm4562 has power supply max at +-17v. It’s not rail to rail but +-14v swing. But why is it needing to do more than that? Sorry for the dumb question. Just trying to learn. Thx for any help.

Where to position transformers for line stage build

I'm building an Aikido all-in-one line stage. The case design I'm planning will hang the PCB from a metal top panel, with the tubes extending up through the case top, and the larger capacitors mounted downward. The power supply is on the same board as the audio circuit, mounted at the back. I'm using two toroidal transformers, a 12v for the heater supply and a 230v for the B+. I've ordered some iron pots for them, but I'm also considering mounting them naked, or building a custom metal enclosure/baffle.

What I'm trying to decide now is where to place the transformers for minimal interference with the audio circuit. The attached rough sketch shows the three locations I'm considering. Option B, nested under the PCB, would allow me to shorten the case, but would place the transformers closest to the circuits. Option A provides the most shielding and separation between the circuit and the transformer, since it would be entirely outside the case and shielded on all sides.

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Lt3091 or TPS7a33

Hi I would like to know which negative regulator would you recommend for a Linear PSU with a bridge rectifier (120Hz) ? And which one would performs the best ?

I need 1Amp or more, it has to be LDO.

I don't care about the package. But I do somewhat care about the number of added parts to make it operational.

Does any of those 2 has any flaw I should be aware of ? Should I focus on other LDOs maybe ?

Thank you.

For Sale Vintage tube and transformer data booklets

Thordarson Catalog No 500, Amplifier Guide 346D, and Transmitter (transformers) guide 344-A. Photo copied loose pages, over 200 pages. $7.00

RCA Transmitter Tube Catalog 1956. Photo copied loose pages. 256 pages. $7.00

I coped these over 40 yrs ago. Plus shipping (media mail).

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SMPS whit UU ferrite

Good day to the whole group Do it yourself! These days I was studying a little switching power supply systems and from mouser I bought this type of ferrite of category N27 and I also got Epcos N87 ferrite from RS component! Have anyone ever used this type of ferrite! I tried them and the ferrite winding you see in the picture delivers 110V and with a load of 600w it is very stable! But how much power can I make these ferrite cores deliver?I'm making them work in push pull at a frequency of 40khz

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FS: Tomcat Audio EL84 Mono Blocks

This is a fantastic sounding Pair of EL84 Mono Blocks
They were Built By the Great Tube Amp Builder John Miller of Tomcat Audio
The use a pair of EL84 or Russian 6p14 and a single 12at7
They are 22 watts in push pull,
1 year old with little use on them.
Asking $950 local pickup in Huntersville,NC

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