I'm not too smart - part number for Rotel RA-840BX3 bias adjustment?

Hi all,

So, I thought to myself "I have a multimeter, and I have a service manual; how hard can it be to adjust bias on this amp I have?" It turns out, if you break the top off the part you're adjusting...pretty difficult. I've dealt with soldering on boards before (bit of a pinball guy), but I need to order a new part and am not sure how to track down the part number. According to the service manual, it's a 220 ohm one, but I have no real idea where to search for part numbers/names, as the service manual is 30+ years old and part numbers appear to have changed. Could anyone offer any advice as to where to look? Thanks so much; sorry for the basic question.

VR602 - what I broke
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VR601 - what it looked like before I broke it
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Completely New to DIY

Hey everyone,

Just purchased a new townhome and im wanting to upgrade my speaker system but after looking I have made the choice to go DIY.

Moving into a new home & having a baby really hits the wallet... I have always wanted to build my own pair and have the hands on skills to do so. So I thought this is a good time.

My system is currently:

Speakers: B&W DM330 Towers
Subwoofer: Velodyne VX-10B
Amplifiers: Denon DRA- 685 &
Pioneer 717 Mark II
DAC: Cambridge Audio DAC Magic 100.

My room: 12ft wide x 20ft long. Listening from about 10-11ft away (System on the long wall) Hardwood floors but large area rug in the TV / Listening space. Insulated walls drywall etc. (Above ground basement)

Intended use: Music Tv Movies. (70% TV Movies 30% Music.)

I really like the price point and style of the Amiga Kit on parts express. It also passes the "Wife Approval Factor" for size and style. Would these beat out my B&Ws?

I can spend more than the amigas but would like to keep it under 6-700$ CAD. Is there a better kit for my use case and budget?

Thanks for reading my long winded post hopefully I have provided enough information. Any help or suggestions appreciated.

WTB PHY/HP H30 LB15 Coaxial Drivers

As posted on Hifihaven: If anyone has or knows of an available pair of PHY/HP H30 coaxials for sale, I would be a most interested buyer. I am intrigued by the late Bernard Salabert's approach toward practical and empirical engineering practices... and obviously I need an excuse to mess with a system that already works in the pursuit to make it 'better'. So goes the hobby!

PHY/HP Site

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Denon PMA 830 Persistent problems in power amp, fireworks show!

Long post, but I did my best to be succinct while presenting as much relevant information as possible.

I have been working on restoring my Denon Pma 830 integrated amp and started to run into some problems after re-capping the Right channel power amp and phono preamp. Before that the amp seemed to work ok but didn't sound quite right to me which led me to the restoration efforts.

During that round of work, some of the wired connections between the board to the output transistors had unknowingly failed due being brittle and flexing but I think they were still touching the respective pin on the output transistor so it's hard to say what exactly what was going on there. That's the only mistake that I was able to find for that round of work. So when I hooked up the amp after that round of work, I initially powered it up on the light bulb limiter with no indication of a short and it came out of protection right on cue. I checked the DC offset and it was pretty high considering the amp was working fine previously before this round of work and that I had already set the offset to 0V. However, I figured that maybe the trimmer had gotten disturbed during the work and I had no problem re-setting it to 0V so I moved on to checking the bias. I started by trying to check the bias in class A mode and I got a low value on the R channel and I was only able to adjust it up to about 180 mV (spec is 0.5V) at which point I thought I caught a hint of the smell of an overheating component so I shut the amp off. I switched the amp into class B mode and tried measuring the bias and in class B mode, setting the bias was no problem and there was no more hot smell so I moved on to the left channel and did the same. I then tried to listen to some music and while there wasn't anything screaming out as an obvious problem I thought that it didn't sound totally right (kind of anemic and lower volume than I was used to at the same setting, especially in the right channel).

I then switched it back to class A mode and checked the bias on the left channel. It was basically right at .5V which is the spec in the service manual. I plugged the headphones back in and turned up the volume and after a couple seconds I heard a loud buzz and the music dropped out of the R channel and I immediately shut the amp down. Smoke started coming from the R power amp card. and I was able to trace it down to R48 (it was glowing red hot), the base resistor on the TR20 2SB577 output. Well, schucks! I went back and I hooked it up to the light bulb limiter and a dead short was now apparent it would not come out of protection at all.

I went in and pulled the outputs and they actually measured fine. I then found a bad driver TR16 (2SA815) and replaced it and its compliment,TR14 with MJE172 and MJE182 respectively. I have double checked the orientation of the transistors. While I was in there I replaced all the 1S2076A diodes with 1n4148. I also replaced D18, and D20 with 1n4007. r42, 44, 46, 48, 56 were also replaced. Many of the other components were measured including all transistors and remaining diodes with my atlas DCA. I reinstalled the outputs with new thermal paste, but I did not change the mica since they were stuck tight to the heat sink. I checked for shorts between the transistor case and heatsink and all looked good. I stripped back the wires and resoldered all connections between the output transistors and board. However, it looks like I will need to replace these wires outright as they are still brittle even after being stripped back and the flexing has caused many strands to break again already.

Anyways, I felt like I had done my due diligence so I reassembled everything and made an attempt to test it. I powered it up on the bulb limiter and there was no indication of a dead short and the relay clicked but it continued to click intermittently. I was able to zero out the dc offset during this time on the R channel but the relay continued cycling. At the same time I thought I saw some wisps of smoke rising but I'm not entirely sure as it could have been cat hair too (lol). But I did smell something like hot plastic so I powered the amp down. Well schucks, there's still a problem.

At this point I was frustrated and since nothing was showing itself to have obviously failed, I just decided to take it off the bulb limiter and hopefully coax a more obviously failure out of it to help me trouble shoot what's going on. And fail it did! As soon as the relay clicked the first time, there was a massive flash, pop and puff of smoke. Naturally, I shut the amp off. Now, I found that the body of TR22 had literally vaporized. TR12 also looks to be charred too but it could just be debris from the explosion of TR22. Thinking back I wish I had pulled the pre-main jumpers to at least isolate the problem but I forgot to so that variable is still up in the air. I tried putting it on the bulb limiter again and there's no dead short indicated. The protection relay "RL2" still cycles on and off. There are also individual relays on the power amp boards RL1, RL2 that switch between the class A and class B operating modes which are different than RL1 and RL2 on the power supply board and hopefully they didn't get damaged because they are a pretty funky looking, non standard relay.

Anyways, I plan on taking the power amp card out again and replacing the burned transistors and replacing all the other transistors on the board except for the dual input FETs since there only seem to be ebay options left for those and they tested great and were well matched between sides when I tested them. Ill continue testing other components while I'm in there. While this circuit looks pretty simple, I'm a bit lost as to what exactly is going on, especially when it comes to assessing the failure mode. One initial thought I had when the I found the driver transistor TR16 shorted is that maybe the output cases are still somehow shorting to the heat sink even though I can't measure it but that maybe they do when under power. I suppose I should pull and test the outputs again anyways and this time replace the mica's since I ordered a bunch. If someone could help walk me through this circuit a bit and brainstorm what may have caused the latest failures, that would be much appreciated!

Schematics, manual, and pic of charred transistor and funky relay attached.

Attachments

Mastersound 300B

I have an original master sound 300 B amplifier with a blown transformer. Looking for a schematic or someone that can measure the AC output so I can find something to fit the xfrmr case. The US rep won’t respond. Looks like fixed bias, probably 400-450v. I could probably reverse engineer and take an educated guess but trying to keep the amp as original as possible.

nanoVNA Vector Network Analyzer - what can it be used for?

Hi All,

A couple of weeks ago I was looking for a way to make precision measurements of inductances and in this context posted a question about this in an inductance meter thread here on diyaudio.

One of the replies came from 1audio who suggested a nanoVNA Vector Network Analyzer which may cost as little as ~30 Euros (or maybe even less):

New 2.8 inch LCD Display NanoVNA VNA HF VHF UHF UV Vector Network Analyzer Antenna Analyzer + Battery| | - AliExpress

These nanoVNAs are available in different models ranging from (as far as I can see) 10 kHz up to 3 GHz bandwidth and somewhat different specs.

A couple of videos on how to use them can be found here:

#359 How to properly use a NanoVNA V2 Vector Network Analyzer & Smith Chart (Tutorial) - YouTube

nanoVNA - Measuring Inductors and Capacitors (Vers. 3) - YouTube

Apparently they can be used to make precision measurements of inductors and capacitances - and another diyaudio member mentioned that they might also be used for amplifier loop gain measurements - ... but I am wondering what else they may be used for? May they e.g. be used for precision phase noise measurements, or .... ?

Before maybe venturing into buying one it could be interesting to hear what the really practical uses may be for such a device ...

Thanks for any insights on this you may have 😉

Cheers,

Jesper

Help with home theatre coaxial LCR cabinets

Hello everyone, first I will thank you for your wonderful forum.

There is a tremendous wealth of knowledge here and I hope to learn more in the future in my exploration of DIY audio. This may be noob question but I don’t quite understand all the various t&s parameters and I was wondering if some of you could assist me in some cabinet design.

I have a set of Eminence Beta CX10 Coaxial drivers with ASD1001 compression drivers and appropriate cross overs. These are drivers that I have owned for a while, I have them in cabinets that I built based on an Eminence cabinet recommendation paper. I am looking to replace the cabinets since they are ugly, it was my first and somewhat rushed attempt at speaker building. I would like to get the best performance out of these drivers that I own already. I these will be used as LCR speakers for home theatre use. I plan on having a 80hz highpass filter as they are crossed over with a subwoofer. It might not be particularly relevant but the subwoofer is a Tekton Cinema sub. Eventually when I build up some money and addition knowledge I’d like to build 4 DIY subs to place around my room.

I’m trying to optimize for sound quality and output above 80 hz. My understanding is that a higher crossover frequency effectively limits the strain on the low frequency driver which should allow for higher output.

Now on to the relevant question at hand.

From my research these drivers are better suited for ported cabs. The speakers sit behind an AT screen in my home theatre and therefore the drivers theoretically have a reasonably large volume if required. I say the exterior dimensions could be as large as 2’ wide, 5’ tall, 3’ft deep. I can’t imagine they need to be that impractically large.

I plugged my numbers into one of the automatic calculators online, I am trying to understand how the box tuning effects the cab.

No specified Fb gives me:
Vb = 1.77 ft3 = 50.21 lts
f3 = 53.44 Hz
fb = 52.09 Hz
Dv = 4 in = 10 cm
Lv = 3.8 in = 9.22 cm

If I set the fb to 80hz it gives me

Vb = 1.77 ft3 = 50.21 lts
f3 = 53.44 Hz
fb = 80 Hz
Dv = 4 in = 10 cm
Lv = -0.23 in = -0.7 cm

Does this mean I just have to make a 1.77ft3 box and cut a 4” hole in it?

Can you walk me through this stuff?
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Good Inexpensive Neodymium Tweeter?

Is anyone aware of good/inexpensive neodymium tweeters besides The Usual Suspects from Dayton?

I was thinking about taking another crack at a CBT or line array, and all of my sims indicate that you basically need a tweeter. (Please don't let this devolved into a discussion about why I don't need a tweeter lol)

Since a line array requires a LOT of tweeters, I'm looking for something, well, "good and inexpensive."

Another option I'm considering, is adding a metamaterial back chamber to each tweeter. A la the Kef speakers.

So if the housing is plastic, that's a bonus, I can saw the back off, similar to what I did with the SB Acoustics SB26.

EI transformer end bells

Hello everyone,

I am planning to rehouse a Philips AD9032 EI output transformer. This transformer did not have any end bells, just some brackets, and a bakelite board with solder lugs for the windings.
Since the core is standard EI-75 type, I want to attach end bells to it to make it safer and prettier.

I am aware of the need to ensure that metallic screws that go through the laminations holes cannot touch the laminations, thus shorting them and defeating their purpose. But I have the following additional questions:
(1) Do they need to be electrically isolated from both end bells? Or could they make contact with one of them?
(2) Do the bells need to be isolated from the core laminations? For example, do I have to insert paper tape where they touch? Or, same question as in (1), can I isolate one of them from the core and leave the other one without isolation?
My bells attract a fridge magnet, so I would assume they are made of galvanized steel.

Tang band w8-2145 vs Alpair 11ms vs alpair 10. 3

Hey guys

Im in a great dilemma in choosing between these drivers for a build of mine. I would like to have feedback from whoever has experience from these drivers.

I want to build a single driver speaker and be happy with it.

By "be happy with it" what i mean is it should have the most imaging, clarity and natural enveloping bass (not the glass shattering bass from sub)

I do not want to have a sub to enforce the lf region but want the fr driver to handle it.

Use is mostly music but occasionally some movies as well. But music is top priority.

Music genre (soft rock, jazz, intrumentals, r&b, and sufi) basically not very artificial bass heavy genres

Coming to drivers

Tand band w8-2145
Looks good on specs ,fs of 40 hz (in a ml-tl can get down to 35hz)
8 inch driver. So the bass extension is a more believable figure for me.
Love the bass coming from them (video on youtube
YouTube )


Alpair 10.3
Well accepted driver among audiophiles
Fs around 38 looks impressive
Love the mids coming from them (i watched some recordings on YouTube)

Alpair 11ms on FH-XL
New and more advanced driver
But not much reviews on the web or videos to assess the sound signature.
Xmax higher than all of the above drivers (will it help in bass performance..?)
Fs is around 43hz. In fhxl can be around 40hz
Hence im concerned that if it will have adequate bass to meet my needs.
Cant simulate in winisd because winisd auto-calculation doesnt coincide with specs published on mark audio site. Keeps giving error whenever i try to add it. (yes i input the parameters in the order recommended by winisd manual)

I really wish to try 11ms. Mark fenlon talks very passionately about this ms series. Makes me feel it should be better sounding than older drivers. And generally i love the mids coming from mark audio drivers.

the issue is it's not like if i dont like i can swap with another driver. Cant afford to do that.

So basically it all burns down to one question will the 11ms with significantly higher xmax have sufficient resultant bass in room like the w8-2145.

Thanks in advance to all who participate in this thread.

1 pair of TKD 10K mono volume controls for sale.

I have a pair of unused gorgeous TKD 10k ohm mono volume controls. They are the smaller style (CP-601). I would like $60/pair, shipped in the US.

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EUROPE AUDIO

Hi All,

In the rush to buy some components I couldn't find elswhere I ordered at Europe Audio 500EUR worth of material. I got one automatic confirmation of the order, then no reply to emails. I checked the order status online and I found out none of the products is available and no date is provided.

It was too easy to find out online that most feedback from customers are negative, with many stating products were nevere delivered.

Has anynone managed to get a refund? Unfortunately I paid through bank transfert.

Any tip is welcome,

D

FS: DACT CT-100 based phono preamp

SOLD !
Up for sale finished and fully working phono preamp based on DACT CT-100 module.
  • Enclosure dimensions: depth x width x height (with legs) - 12.25" x 8.5" x 3.25" ~ 310mm x 215mm x 82mm
  • Front panel is made of black acrylic and there is only a violet LED power indicator.
  • Main switch has been placed toward the rear, underneath the bottom panel - see pictures.
  • Dual mono power supply is based on the quad LT3045 chip kits from DIYINHK. Although, I noticed that phono module nicely responds to different supplies if you wish to try.
  • Preamp is equipped with balanced outputs only as it was my preference. It can be easily wired for RCA or use XLR-> RCA adapters.
CT-100 module is extremely versatile piece of hardware. It can be matched to virtually any cartridge out there. I don't have much time to use this preamp hence the sale. I won't dwelve into how it sounds discussion as it is a subjective opinion. Since it is extremely quiet with very low distortions I had been also using it as a measurement tool for my cartridges and turntable tweaks.
Module alone is silly expensive these days. Last time I checked it was above $900. Add all the parts and you end up with at least $1300 plus long hours of putting this all together. Also, I will include 2 pairs of Canare L-4E6S interconnects - balanced and RCA, both 4' long.
My asking price for the whole package is SOLD shipped to lower states.

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how to add Toslink digital output to Philips CD930

Hi,
I'm proud to read this great Forum. I'm new.

I own a Philips CD930 player- I've found the mainboard has the possibility to add a toslink port.

this is the service manual : cd930

If you see it there is the name of the digital transmitter chip used for the analog output and it has a pin for the digital output.

Please let me know if it is possible . I found a toslink connector with 3 pins but on mainboard and electrical scheme there are 4 pins. I don't know the meaning of the Led signal for the fourth pin.

thanks

Fusion GS-DA12250 monoblock burned components

Good day bros. I am working with a Fusion 2250 watts monoblock model: GS-DA12250. The amp keeps clicking only and does not power on. It had adhesive coating near the power supply section near the filter capacitors (as shown encircled in red from the picture). I removed the hard adhesive coating and I believed the coating became conductive after some time which caused the components under, ZD3 and one resistor to blow(also encircled in red in the picture), actually it created a small hole in the between the the 2 blown parts. Measuring the voltage drop on the on one of zener diode (ZD2) adjacent to it 5.5v as reference, I replaced the blown parts as in trial and error method but the amp just trying to power on , the power goes on and off, continously. Can anybody tell me the correct value of these parts, ZD3 and resistor(encircled). I f you came across this amp? or better if anybody can share me the circuit diagram of this amp. because not sure if a trace was cut as well from the hole. Thank you very much and more power to all.

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Looking for Infinity EMIT-R round ribbon tweeters & Tectonic Audio Labs TEBM46C20N-4B BMR drivers.

Hello,
I'm looking for Infinity EMIT-R round ribbon tweeters or equivalent clones (IE Beston) and Tectonic Audio Labs TEBM46C20N-4B BMR drivers.

Other drivers I'm interested in include: Peerless PLS-P830985, Peerless PLS-830970, Peerless NE95W-04, any 4" or smaller full range driver from the Peerless NE line, Wavecor FR4X6WA01, Wavecor FR4X6WA02, Wavecor FR055WA01, Wavecor FR055WA02, Wavecor FR070WA01, Wavecor FR070WA02, and Wavecor FR070WA05. Possibly other affordable full range drivers.

Central Florida locations near Orlando works well for me and saves on shipping. I prefer private messaging.

Thanks...

FS: 3 way drivers. BMR clone!

For sale the following pairs of drivers, all in perfect condition.
Tectonic TEBM46C20N-4B MMR full range as used in Philharmonic BMR speaker.
HiVi RT1.3WE isodynamic tweeter.
Dayton RS180P -4
The full range and woofer drivers are mounted in Phiharmonic BMR size enclosures.
Tweeters are unused.
All purchase last year from PE. Current price$300
sell $150 plus shipping from Atlanta, Ga.
enclosures free if you want to pay for shipping or pick up.

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AmericanBass VFL competition 20k in protect mode

Hi all, I'm at a stalemate with an American Bass VFL 20k Competition series. I replaced several damaged components including 20N50F output mosfet, TC4452 gate driver, IR2184 Half Bridge driver but still the amp won't work.
I believe that the problem revolves around the IR2184 driver and its reference power supplies on pins 5 and 8. In fact, during the start-up phase, the 12v referred to the negative rail is fixed on pin 5; while on pin 8 the 12v referred to gnd are missing after a few seconds. In this condition pin 4 (low side output) seems to work properly while pin 7 (High Side output) does not work. This situation puts the amp in protection mode and the power supply switches off. I checked everything, but something still escapes me .... do you have any suggestions???? Thank you for what you are going to do, greetings.
Andrea.

WOTS WHA-53 Circlotron Class A Hybrid main amplifier

WOTS WHA-53
This is a very high-quality power amplifier with no feedback loop.

Where to post this project? Tube forum? Solid state forum? 8 triodes beat 4 MOSFETs. So, perhaps this is the best place, even considering the high voltage.

This project uses tubes in the Front-End, so the supply voltage is necessarily high and dangerous to health, if not fatal. Approximately 350V is present at the highest voltage point.

You are warned if you decide to tackle this project the responsibility is all yours, nothing can be attributed to the writer, who declines any responsibility.

This project was born from the solicitation of my friend Stefano di Rottofreno (Italy) who had browsed the Audiodesignguide.com site (Andrea Ciuffoli), and liked a lot the "Amplifier End 2022", an exciting project, with valve Front-End and solid-state Back-End, in “Circlotron” configuration.
The points of interest of this project are:
  • polarization of the final stage in Class A;​
  • “Circlotron” circuitry, which guarantees maximum symmetry;​
  • a single pair of final transistors;​
  • 60W/8Ohm output power, sufficient for normal use at home with medium efficiency loudspeakers.​
The critical point is in the Front-End, which uses a single-ended interstage transformer, which necessarily has the gap to avoid core saturation. The gap picks up and radiates, and this leads to a certain difficulty in realizing the layout because the generation of unwanted noise must be avoided. Furthermore, the recommended transformer is very expensive.

Once it was decided to adopt the Back-End as per the original project, it was a matter of deciding how to make the Front-End (gain stage and phase shifter), consequently making only the necessary modifications to the Back-End, for the part regarding the bias.

We have considered different solutions, focusing on a mu-follower differential, followed by a cathode follower to interface the “Circlotron” Back-End.

At this point, Stefano was no longer able to follow the project, but I wanted to go ahead anyway, and I started looking for the "best practice" in terms of phase shifters. I discovered that the "Cathodyne", if well configured and well used, is at the top of the list because it is maximally symmetrical; but it has two problems:
  • difference of the output impedances on the opposite phases;​
  • the phase shifter triode filament must be polarized at a high voltage with respect to mass and, in order not to exceed the maximum Vkf values of the other triodes, it is always polarized negatively with respect to its cathode, while the correct configuration requires the filament to be slightly positive with respect to the cathode.​
The first problem is solved very easily by presenting a double cathode follower on the outputs of the phase shifter triode made with a very easy-to-drive double triode.

The second problem seems to be negligible, as no author cares much about this aspect, so I feel entitled to neglect it too, even though this is the first time I present a project with a reverse polarized filament.

There are several examples of “Cathodyne” on the net, I chose the Williamson input stage, formed by a first amplifier triode coupled directly to the phase shifter grid. This solution, with the values shown in the scheme (ref. www.valvewizard.co.uk/cathodyne.pdf – by Merlin Blencowe) ensures a greater gain than the differential.

In addition, "Cathodyne" has a very intriguing feature, which takes me back in time, when, still a child, I enjoyed making the transistors oscillate, in order to have a transmitter and hear my voice on the home radio. Transistors were made to oscillate by introducing positive feedback created by a capacitor placed between the collector and the emitter. Transposing the concept to the "Cathodyne", a small positive reaction can be dosed very carefully to increase the gain, if necessary, by placing a resistor between the anode and the cathode. I remember that Hiraga posted somewhere a solution in this sense, but I don’t remember any explanation. Reasonably, the operation coincides with what I said. However, here the gain of the Front-End is high enough and doesn’t require any increase.

Furthermore, I am against the use of CCS in the presence or proximity of the audio signal. I only use the CCS, (relying on my memory) in the "Virtual Battery" power supply and in the "Diamond Buffer". So "Cathodyne" is the solution I prefer because it has none.

Having established the definitive configuration, taking the dual mono construction for granted, it was a question of identifying a solution to house the physical/functional blocks.

For the Front End:
  • amplification stage and phase shifter;​
  • anode power supply;​
  • filament power supply;​
  • delay (after switch-on) to maintain the output short-circuit until the voltages stabilize;​
  • soft start (optional);​
  • 100VA transformer.​
For the Back End:
  • final stage;​
  • power supply “A”;​
  • power supply “B”;​
  • leveling and reservoir capacitors “A”;​
  • leveling and reservoir capacitors “B”;​
  • bias power supply;​
  • loudspeaker protection power supply;​
  • soft start;​
  • speaker protection;​
  • 300VA transformer (being the same surface area, I chose an exaggerated 600VA);​
I managed the PCB's design to contain all the elements of the Front-End on a single board, while the transformer and the soft-start remain outside. Even all the elements of the Back-End are on a single board, while the transformer, the speaker protection, and the soft start remain outside.

HiFi2000 has in his catalog the Monoblocks, very suitable cabinets for a dual-mono realization. But, in this case, they are small, and it is not possible to fit a complete channel in a single Monoblock. So I chose the dual-mono / dual-body configuration, housing the Front-End in two Monoblocks without a heatsink, and the Back-End in two Monoblocks with a side heatsink. Four cabinets in total.

If the circuitry is a simple one, the mechanical part is a laborious one, the worst moment lies in the realization of the four rectangular holes to house the IEC-C14 sockets.

Calibration.
There are only two calibration points, that concern the absorption of the "Back'End", here is what to do:
  • turn on only the power supply relative to the bias and adjust the two trimmers to read 200mV on the 47KOhm resistor connected to the central pin of each trimmer;​
  • turn off and discharge the bias power supply;​
  • interpose a 0.1Ohm resistor between the Drains and their positive side of the high current power supply;​
  • turn on the whole "Back-End" and adjust the trimmers to read 100mV across the 0.1Ohm resistors using two multimeters;​
  • once the correct absorption value and symmetry have been obtained, move one of the two multimeters to the loudspeaker output and bring the offset to zero by adjusting the trimmers.​
At the time of writing, I'm listening to background music from Enrique Chìa's collection, waiting for the WHA-53 to run in its components. But already now, after more than 5 hours of operation, I can say that it has exceptional coherence, which is the aspect that most distinguishes it from the valid WHA-217, which it replaced. To find a similar sound I have to go back to 2013 when I listened to an OTL 4 x 6C33C power amp in the SiAudio listening room in Naples. An experience that for me has been, ever since, my term of comparison. Finally, here we are! This WHA-53 probably outclasses the OTL power amp. Or probably not, but the two are very close.

Thanks to:
  • Andrea Ciuffoli for publishing the "Amplifier End 2022" whose Back-End is used here;​
  • Merlin Blencowe for publishing the HiFi "Cathodyne" scheme;​
  • my friend Stefano, who brought Ciuffoli’s "Amplifier End 2022" to my attention;​
  • HiFi200 for their very high-quality cabinets, now even better than in the past;​
  • JLCPCB for their excellent service.​
Gerber files for PCB making are available for free to those interested.

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Counterpoint SA-2000 Problem

A few weeks ago some arcing noise came out shortly after I switched off my Counterpoint SA-2000 preamp after a long day of use (note that it never really switches off once it is plugged in). Then some nasty burning smell came out. I was lucky to be still in the room when it happened. I unplugged it, opened it up, and found the power transformer very hot but there was no visible sign of any damage in other components. I suspect the transformer got a short inside (the burning smell seemed to have come out of it).

I am the original owner (bought this preamp new in 1995), but it's been in storage for a long time until a few years ago when I resurrected it. I replaced all electrolytic caps, replaced both tubes (6922 and rectifier tube), readjusted all biases and offsets (I did everything myself). It had served me well until it died a sudden death.

I know the transformer will need to be replaced (it'll probably be very hard to find). I'm also worried if it can become a fire hazard since it is always on once it is plugged in. As I understand it, the power switch only turns off the HV supply to the 6922, but all other circuits are on 24/7, including the 6922 heater. The transformer is in use 24/7 once the preamp is plugged in. This sounds pretty scary since there's always HV inside.

I'm wondering if it is worth repairing, or if it's even possible that I can find a replacement part. My theory is that the insulation in the transformer was worn out after many years of continuous use (on 24/7), but I can be wrong, and have not really looked to find out what really happened. Anyone has any insight?

Are these the right type of cap for lowpass filter on output of D/A ?

Hello,

DBX made a part error on their VENU 360- they used ceramic caps for the low-pass filter on the outputs... as discussed in another forum (ASR), its best to replace these.

So, wondering if anyone here knows if these here in the link below are the right type of cap for this application?

(I have no schematic... just assuming by the value and placement on board that these are used in the low pass filter of the D/A portion...)

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/kemet/LDEEA2150JA0N00/9486469

Inside various electret microphones

Hi,
I've been looking into linkwitz modding some electret microphones (curiosity) and ended up taking apart 25-30 various modern capsules (available from Mouser and Digikey). Some of them seem to be easily modifiable.


The list so far is:

  • AOM-4546LR
  • AOM-5024L-HD-R
  • CMC-2242PBL-A
  • CMC-2742PBJ-A
  • CMC-2742WBL-25L
  • CMC-5042PF-AC
  • CMC-5044PF-A
  • CMC-6027-32T
  • CMC-9745-37L100
  • CMEJ-0413-42-SMT-TR
  • CMEJ-0415-42-P
  • CMEJ-0627-42-P
  • CMEJ-0627-42-SP
  • DOM-3027L-HD-R
  • EM-6022P
  • ICS-40720 (only macro photos, without teardown)
  • ICS-40730 (only macro photos, without teardown)
  • ICS-40740 (only macro photos, without teardown)
  • MO063602-1
  • MO064001-1
  • MO064002-3
  • MO064402-7
  • MO064404-1
  • POM-2244L-C33-R
  • POM-2730L-HD-R
  • POM-3535L-3-R
  • POM-3535P-3-R
  • POM-5038P-C3310-R
  • POW-1644P-B-R
  • PUM-3046L-R
  • PUM-3546L-R
  • TOM-1545P-R

I've uploaded them to my imgur: Imgur: The magic of the Internet
I might upload them here, if there is some interest.

FS: Verity Audios Fidelio most mint. Trades excepted as well.

Good morning Everyone 😁. I have a pair of Verity Audios Fedelio speakers for sale in glossy black finish. There is 2 issues with these speakers. So The main binding post screw in post are missing and there is a slight blemish (unless you look really close) in the finish of a front corner you can’t really notice it. Grills are in good shape. All drivers are in mint condition. I have floor spikes as well. I have no boxes or papers. I got from a diyer here on the forum. Need to sell asap. I’m looking for a local pick up or you can arrange fedex or ups to box them up and ship them? They are going anywhere between $3,800 to $4,600 a pair. Am not looking to get that kinda money knowing people are hurting. I will trade for the following drivers or cash.

1. AER fullrange drivers (depends on model and condition?).
2.Fostex F200 drivers and some cash.
3. Lowther drivers and some cash.
4. Jordan drivers and some cash.

Or I will take $2,500 cash but, it can be negotiated. I will put pictures up when I get home from work tonight. Be safe. Jeff

2 x Saligny LC ideal rectifiers

Never used, never tried out. Expected to see devices with DIL 8 rectifiers but never got one. That is until after I have sold these 🙂

50 Euro for the pair ex shipping. Picture is from the Evotronix website. Shipping to EU countries only, German and Dutch buyers get free but uninsured shipping. Hang on brothers.

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For Sale Lundahl LL1649 Power Transformer

Selling 1x Lundahl LL1649 PT

250VA
Prim : 230/115
Sec 1: 230/1A
Sec 2-3-4-5: 6.6V / 3.1A

LL1620 housing included for free (some scratches)

Asking 100€, will ship worldwide

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For Sale Dual Mono Pass F5 v2 Mono Block, Hepos Tube Pre-Amp, Biino Volume Control

Hey everybody,

I offer my DIY amplifiers for sale. The inventory is as follows.

  • Two Pass F5 mono blocks, fully assembled & ready to use
  • Hepos tube pre-amplifier, all parts included, all three boards (amp, 2x power supply) assembled, no inter-board wiring, no casing
  • Two Biino volume controls, partially assembled

I'll provide more infos about the individual parts in the following posts. Pickup in Tyrol, Austria. Shipment is feasible within Europe. Please PM me with offers.

Light bulb limiter error

I built a light bulb limiter exactly like the one in this diagram;



light-bulb-limiter.jpg


When I plug in a known working solid state amp into the device and switch it on, the light bulb stays lit and the amp just hums. The amp works fine plugged in normally.

What did I get wrong on this? I snipped the tab on the left side of the outlet and left the one on the right side as per the illustration.

VFA front end - the Bunnyphant

Dear audio enthusiasts on DIY Audio,

I plan to build an amplifier front end that is heavily based on Bob Cordell's CordellAudio.com - A MOSFET Power Amplifier with Error Correction amplifier from 1984.
I also implemented some ideas from his excellent book and some further ideas collected or developed over some years.

The design looks pretty complex, but most of the complexity is not in the signal chain.

Some design goals:

  • High PSRR
  • Power supply invariant operation
  • Massive input over-voltage protection
  • Feedback Baker clamps to maintain NFB during clipping
  • Adaptive clipping by sensing output stage voltage

The design looks totally over-engineered, but I had something in mind with every complication I added.

I present the design here because I like to hear the experts opinion, kind of peer review.
I gain a lot of inspiration on the forum and like to share what I do in order to maybe inspire other DIYers.
I'm not really interested in simplification of the design unless this would improve performance.

Some design justification:

The CCS are so huge because their output current does not vary at all with supply voltage. Also the PSRR is impressive. They are pretty stable.

The VAS has its own CCS, which is not really necessary, but allows setting standing current of first and second LTP independently. Can be omitted easily in case this is not desired.

The input over-voltage protection aims to protect the sensitive transistors from ESD and other high voltage events for both inputs. The design is simple, effective, does not worsen distortion significantly and is optional to assemble. I just find that inputs deserve protections since exceeding the absolute maximum rating of the input transistors voltage will degrade or destroy them. The standard low pass filter does a lot to mitigate ESD already and the additional protection is just for more severe cases.

Capacitance multipliers are great. This is Keantoken's design. Thanks a lot!

The rail reference sense makes sure that the output stage cannot be driven into saturation. Zener diodes values need to be adjusted to the type of output transistor used (BJT, vertical MOSFET or lateral MOSFET).

I use CFPs in the first LTP. While this does not show any improvement in simulation, I still like to try this. In any case, it makes this stage more linear. I stumbled across an article, that this helps to minimize memory distortion. So maybe worth a try. In case it doesn't work well, it can be reverted to the classic design easily.

I'm looking forward to your comments.

Easter is coming. And every project needs a name. So this is the Bunnyphant.

Best regards,

Lee

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Fusion 360 script to turn Ath waveguide into 3D printable parts

@mabat has given us the great Ath (Advance Transmission Horn) tool as discussed in this very interesting thread: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/acoustic-horn-design-the-easy-way-ath4.338806/)

In it, mabat also gives advice on 3d printing the waveguides as a throat with 4 petals and some connection pieces.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-design-the-easy-way-ath4.338806/post-7062937 and further

connecting-piece.jpg work-2.jpg

I made a first prototype following his guidelines after struggling with Fusion 360:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/efficient-2-way.380822/post-7202065 and further

IMG_20221220_172527590.jpg IMG_20221228_154119353.jpg

As I am very new to speaker building and (hifi) audio in general I can't add much to this forum. The forum (members) have given though! I am trying to do something back by automagically turn the .afp file as created by Ath into 3D printable parts by simply running a Fusion 360 script that can be configured by a config file. I hope it will help others and me cut down the time and effort to go from ath to a stl files, ready to be used in a slicer program.
I have made the createPrintableWaveguide script available on github (https://github.com/TomKamphuys/CreatePrintableWaveguide). It is currently a messy, fragile script, but I think it does enough to act as a proof-of-principle. I hope to get some of you enthousiastic and get some help. Any help is appreciated as just like the Fusion gui, the API presents a similar challenge: it isn't easy for the uninitiated. Even if you don't have any python/fusion experience, you can help by e.g. writing the readme or further documentation or suggesting new ideas.
Some expectation management: I won't be persistent as mabat and don't expect to be actively developing this script 3 years from now, but I hope it will be enough for some of you to use directly or use parts of it.

Currently it is capable of this:

Screenshot_20230121_123941.png

Stabilizing the TA7136P-based preamp in an Onkyo A-5

The factory preamp design in the Onkyo A-5 is marginally stable. This thread is about a complete and tested fix which retains the TA7136P IC, preserves in-band behavior, and doesn't involve any drilling.

I live a half-mile from a strong FM radio transmitter. This is a good way to find out which preamps are stable: that FM broadcast bleeds right through the noise floor for those that aren't.

The A-5 preamp showed the usual signs of oscillation. It had an angry noise floor that varied in volume if you touched the chassis or moved any attached wires. You didn't need a source if you wanted to listen to one particular FM station. The FM pickup was worse with the chassis off, and audible with it on. A stable preamp shouldn't become a tuner even with the chassis open.

The fix is in 3 parts, there will be a post for each.
  • Create a spice model of the TA7136P op amp so we can evaluate its stability.
  • Change the compensation so that the circuit is stable in spice.
  • When that doesn't work, notice that the NFB loop is physically large (it spans 3 circuit boards). Reduce NFB node impedance at HF, to improve the chance that our spice model is accurate. This worked.

Reducing Sanyo C55 preamp distortion by 15db

This was a fun and easy mod. You don't have to drill much and there's plenty of space to add the few new components.

I only modded the flat amp, I didn't touch the tone amp or the phono amp.

The factory flat amp simulates at a -105db distortion floor. With mods it simulates at a -120db distortion floor. Both sims used a worse-case source impedance of 25k.

The mod works like this:
- Replace the FET input stage with degenerated bipolars.
- Modify the input network to be AC-coupled to work with the bipolar's nonzero base current.
- Remove the Miller compensation cap, use lag compensation instead.
- Add a capacitor to the factory cascode to strengthen it. This allows for good distortion performance with high source impedance. Without it, the Early-effect nonlinear base current in series with the source impedance will introduce an error that cannot be NFB'd away. This cap must be large enough to work at LF.
- Adjust a few other component values (C706, C707, R715.)

Why the compensation change? The R-C pair at the tail of the input stage interacts less with the lag cap than the miller cap. This lets us give the overall loopgain plot a deeper phase dip and allow more NFB in band.

I modded one channel first and kept the other stock to compare. The mod sounds better to me and it certainly sounds different. It sounds louder than the stock circuit even when carefully level matched. I've often found the stock circuit to sound a little "soft", with just a subtle "fuzz" to its sound. It was a mellow sound from the factory, and this mod wakes it up some.

It's amazing how two amps or preamps, both with excellent accuracy (distortion below -100db) can sound different. The "before" and "after" of this mod being a great example. It's a subtle difference but I don't think I'm imagining it.

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Looking for an E core transformer with dual 100 Vac secondaries

I have a tube preamp design that requires a + Ve and and - Ve supply rail .

I was hoping to find a E core transformer with the following specs

  • North American use ( 120 Vac primaries )
  • something in the ball park of Dual 90 Vac or 100 Vac secondaries
  • 50 VA to 80 VA
  • use with full bridge rectifier
  • buy from a North American vendor

With a passive supply , this would give something in the order of + / - 126 Vdc or +/- 140 Vdc rails .

So far I've had no luck finding such a beast . But the Hydro voltage in Japan is 100 Vac ( 50 Hz or 60 Hz ) .
Does anyone know of a North American to Japan voltage conversion transformer that would fit the bill ?


Thanks

You & Your Friend + Keith Don't Go - why do people play these songs to show off their speakers?

One of the Universe's inscrutable tragicomedies is why these two abominable songs are used in near all speaker demo videos!

Does anyone really like this kind of music, and/or test their speakers with such stuff?

Maybe the guitar line on the Nils Lofgren song I can accept as something of a test in a narrow band, but jeez, the Dire Straits dirge - it's the MOR equivalent of Bass I Love You.
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Vifa, Peerless, SEAS, Scan Speak - Tweeter series with extended Surround Roll and without Ferrofluid wanted

Approximately 15 years ago I had order 2 pcs. Vifa tweeter with large surround roll (new released at this time) but without ferrofluid.
I ordered here:
https://web.archive.org/web/20070217060009/http://www.vifa.de/
Unfortunately I forget the model naming.

At this time there are various basically series - two series without ferrofluid:

1) with phase plug - go to
https://web.archive.org/web/20070808054348fw_/http://www.vifa.de/produkte/DBXT300K.pdf
2) without phase plug (as mentioned in follow, but also without ferrofluid).

The follow mentioned models use all ferrofluid (type APGS11N)

Vifa XD270 series
http://www.plus-elektronik.de/shop/bilder_vifa/dbxd270f-4.pdf
Peerless DX25TG59-04 (first successor):
https://products.peerless-audio.com/transducer/58
https://www.lautsprechershop.de/pdf/peerless/peerless_dx25tg59_04.pdf
https://www.hifisound.de/Do-it-your...DX25TG-59-04-Vifa-XD-270-F-4-Fabric-Dome.html
Peerless DX25TG09-04 (second successor):
https://loudspeakershop.eu/pobieranie/dx25tg-59-04.pdf
https://heissmann-acoustics.de/test-vifa-peerless-xd-270-f4-dx25bg60-04/
Scan Speak D2604 series:
https://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/d2604-830000.pdf
https://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/d2604-833000.pdf
SEAS H1280-06 22TFF:
http://www.seas.no/index.php?option...ff&catid=45:seas-prestige-tweeters&Itemid=239

I want to know the type naming resp. order code of such tweeters with large surround roll and without ferrofluid.
Thank you very much in advance.

P.S.: This 10 years old thread under
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-without-phase-plug-ferrofluid-wanted.247341/
was closed - thus I start a new thread despite the same topic.

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Modding a Kenwood L 1000 M

Good morning to all,
I recently obtained an interesting PowerAmp - Kenwood L-1000 M - manufactured around 1990. Concurrently I was able to locate a service manual as well. I got the Amp since it is a member of Kenwood's famed "L-Series" which was manufactured by Kensonic Labs (also known as Accuphase) for sister company Kenwood.

http://www.thevintageknob.org/KENWOOD/L1000M/L1000M.html

Specs are as follows:
http://www.thevintageknob.org/KENWOOD/L1000M/L1000M-block.html

2x150W @8Ohm - 2x250W @4Ohm
Damping factor : 130
THD 0.006% (20Hz-20KhZ, 130W, 8Ohm)
THD 0.0004% (1kHz, 130W, 8 Ohm)
Frequency response 5Hz-100kHz +0dB -3dB
Signal/Noise Ratio : 115dB (Unbalanced), 125dB (Balanced)

What I'm looking for are ideas how to modify this nice power amplifier to make it even better. It has excellent specs but due to some reason, it didn't receive top grades in German higher end audio journals. (Like Stereoplay, Audio and Hifi-Vision). Maybe because it was too cheap for their preference ? I think the amp originally costed around $3000, that's way below the $10K many good Accuphase poweramps sell for.

It also is full of high quality components. Maybe there might be some "easy tweaks" to unlock the potential of this design, which shouldn't be far too different from Accuphase's own.
http://www.thevintageknob.org/KENWOOD/L1000M/L1000M-edwin.html

The design has some oddities / goodies
1) Full symmetrical layout
2) 2x 270VA transformers
3) 47000µF caps in the power unit
4) Point to point wiring

Aspects that I found questionable (starting points to modding ?)
1) Variable resistors (potis) in the input path, one per channel - is this necessary ? does it introduce noise

2) Maybe try to get caps to tighter tolerances - replace elkos with regular caps where possible

3) Get metal film resistors of smallest tolerances (Holco 0.5%) to replace resistors in audio path, at the extreme: use bulk foil types

4) The "input" board - uses 2 Opamps : 2x Dual Opamp NJM4580 from JRC / New Japan Radio. While these are ok and relatively low noise, there is still room for improvement in noise and especially slew rate (Contemplating AD797 for example)

5) There's a switch from XLR to Chinch Input at the back of the Amp. Well, it would make sense to "migrate" the switch to the front and feed it from 2 seperate preamps: one analog and one digital "cross connect" (with highest quality DA/AD) for example..

Just to give the full picture about my endeavour, it wouldn't be me who would do the modding, a german modding shop would carry out the project. However I'd like to be able to provide useful inputs to them, ultimately in the form of a "checklist" and for me as a a "project supervision" tool. Being familiar with most concepts, I know more than basics in electronics, however I've been at odds with the soldering iron whenever I tried it <g>

any comments and ideas welcome. Even more so because I know this is a rather "strange" and "exotic" amp - manufactured by a company with more than a good reputation..

best rgrds from Vienna/Austria
CROSSY

For Sale Meridian 506 16bit - Faulty but yours for a donation to a hospice

I'm in Dorchester (Dorset) in the UK and travel regularly to Buckingham (Bucks) along the A35/A31/A34. I could deliver it if you're close to either of those places or not too far from those roads. I'm not going to post it because it's 6.5kg and I've no reliable way to park the drive mechanism.

Owned for more than two decades and purchased from dealer as former demo model. It's not been used for the last 5 years or more. 16 bit version, 2* S/N implying that it could have been upgraded to 20bit at one time.

Was going to sell it as working, but on starting it up, it has a problem with skipping. Sometimes it plays perfectly, sometimes not. So I suspect a corroded/dry joint somewhere in the drive electrics but I have neither the time nor inclination to diagnose & fix (mostly too much else on my plate). In addition to this, the display switch sticks if you push it at the bottom (so don't!). It can be released with tweezers and drops the player into config menu if you power on while stuck.

Cosmetically in VGC and I have the remote.

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DAC project recommendations

Hello everyone

I'm returning after a few years away from the hobby and forum.

I'd like to build a DAC for my next project, preferably based on a popular design, where the issues are already worked through. Even better if PCBs or modules are available.

My only requirement is that it needs to accept digital optical input (from the TV) and output stereo via RCA connectors to the amplifier.

Any suggestions?

Large peak/dip in unity horn Akabak sim

I have been trying to sim a unity horn in Akabak but I'm getting a large peak and dip in response at just over 200hz. I have been moving things around to try and get rid of it.

The dip is the same frequency as a peak in the radiation impedence and a dip in the electrical impedence

Could this be an issue with the model in Akabak? How would I get rid of it?

I am using four B&C 12NDL88 drivers in this sim.

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Quad 50e

Hi all. I have just rebuilt a pair of Quad 50e amplifiers and they sound good no noise at all. I boxed them up and sent them to a friend, when he received the amplifiers and set them up they both have a buzz. I asked him to check to see if anything as come loose in transportation, he as also checked for earth loops. The amplifiers buzz with out a load. I cannot get to see them because my friend lives to far from me I would be grateful for any help that anyone can give me.
Regards Western 91.

807 PP with 8k primary imp OPT?

Recently I was given a pair of SOWTER model U082 output transformers.

SOWTER TYPE U082

They are good for EL84 type tubes but I am keen to know if these can be adapted for 807 tubes. I have seen the STC datasheet and the mention of running 807's into 8k primaries. These are pretty generously proportioned heavy products.

Tubes at hand include small signal triodes of 12AX7/U7/T7 family. Several 6SN7/SL7's. 68J8 family tubes. And several pairs of 807 NOS tubes.

Some might suggest to follow the Williamson design. If the Sowter type U082 ironware is suitable then I would surely go ahead. Unfortunately I don't have any T&M setup to verify. I do have a few digital multimeters and a surplus 5A variac. At pinch I can buy and learn to use a cheap oscilloscope.

I have experience building basic tube stuff to a print. Such as SE EL34 type amps, linestages etc,. I am an industrial worker thus aware of the hazards including those arising out of 807 having a top connection.

Before committing myself to this project I wish to absorb as much as possible. Would strictly try not to use any complicated CCS and other fancy stuff.

I will still be required to procure the power transformer, chokes, casings and other bits. Planning to make it a weekends only slow paced build in a monoblock configuration.

Looking forward to ideas and help.

Moody's Mood For Love

I'm watching the Clint Eastwood Film, "The Mule," on BBC2.
It's about 20 minutes in. He's at a wedding sitting at a table talking to his ex-wife?
You can just about hear the unseen band behind their conversation. There's only a few seconds of it, but I recognised the song the male vocalist was singing, it was "Moody's Mood For Love."

Never heard that sung at a wedding. I guess it was Eastwood's choice as a bit of a jazz enthusiast.


Here is the history of the song, which is an improvisation on the jazz standard, "I'm in the mood for love."

Moody's Mood for Love - Wikipedia



This is my favourite version.


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