The second amp in 2016 : PE1/100SE wiht KNFB
waouh , great job , so very nice
Thank youBeautiful on the outside, but even more stunning on the inside
amazing wire work
Beautiful on the outside, but even more stunning on the inside
amazing wire work
+1
Super neat.
The second amp in 2016 : PE1/100SE wiht KNFB
Beautiful layout and craftmanship. Would grounding of the speaker terminals directly at the last PS cap be beneficial?
The second amp in 2016 : PE1/100SE wiht KNFB
Absolutely stunning craftsmanship again!
May I ask what hook-up wire you are using and is it easy to work with?
I appreciate all the comment
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The second amp in 2016 : PE1/100SE wiht KNFB
No offence to anyone, but stuff like this is kind of like opening a window in a room where a bunch of old men have been drinking beer, playing poker and farting all night.
This amp was built by a fellow member on the Klipsch forum. Very cool. I am also including what he had to say about the build.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzCYxpuWnhA
The amp circuit is a Maynard original. It uses 6SJ7's and 6BG6's I built it into the chassis first and tested it, so that I'd know if any of my add-ons were causing any issues once they were installed and powered up. Maynard's design is hum-less and noiseless and fortunately, my enhancements did not add any noise either.
He designed it to accommodate those gorgeous NOS Coke can caps that I so wanted to use.
That made it necessary to marry them with equally impressive OT's for aesthetic's sake.
The good news is that those OT's bring a lot of base to the show, which Maynard's design powers through with ease.
So, at around $400.00 total, the (4) Hammond X-frmrs represent just under half of the parts cost for the whole build. No surprise there.
The chassis is a Bud Box from Mouser and the hardest part of the construction was making the various holes and cut outs perfect. I measured 4 to 6 times before cutting once. The analog meters were literally the only ones available that looked good/right. They are from e-Bay (Chinese) and even though this really isn't typical in my experience (even though there is reason to believe it should be), two out of four of them had minor problems which I did not discover until they were installed. (sigh) I took them out and fixed both (luckily) and re-installed.
There are a lot of little extras, too numerous to mention but to name a couple, there's the pin-point leds that I used for the volume and tone knob markers and the tiny little chassis holes that you can just make out between each tube pair are access holes for the feedback pots.
The small black knobs beside each output tube USED to be for cathode resistance adjustment. But Maynard's opinion was that that was unnecessary and it added potential for drift and etc. I bowed to his experience and replaced them with fixed resisters. However, that left me with some nice mil-spec 100 Ohm, 3-watt pots installed that were not doing anything. I ended up using the one on the left for the analog meter back-light dimming and the one on the right for the marker led dimming. Yay, mindless, harmless tweaking!
Of course the feature that makes the whole thing pop is the integrated waveform and performance display. I wish I could take credit for it but the truth is, those are widely available as complete functional modules. This one was around $100.00. The user has only to power them up and supply a properly scaled input to them. They come in many styles and configurations, so finding one for your application is not a problem.
The same goes for the signal generator. I considered making one from a dedicated chip but I found what you see here for $40.00,,, FORTY DOLLARS! For that I got a great looking, perfectly sized, digitally synthesized, drop it in the hole and you're done, audio generator... No brainer.
You'll notice there are no through holes or bolts or rivets, etc in the deck. This gives the top side of the chassis a very clean look. Maynard always cuts some very neat little vents for his power resisters to cool through but I could/would not consider that for this build. What I did was install a 12 volt muffin fan inside which circulates air over those resisters. It seems to do a fine job as they stay cool and the deck thermometers stay below 90 degrees. I'm guessing that spreading the heat around inside the aluminum chassis allows it a lot of surface area to wick off through.
That's the ten thousand foot view. I hope it helps but please contact me with any more questions/comments you may have.
Cheers, Stu
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzCYxpuWnhA
The amp circuit is a Maynard original. It uses 6SJ7's and 6BG6's I built it into the chassis first and tested it, so that I'd know if any of my add-ons were causing any issues once they were installed and powered up. Maynard's design is hum-less and noiseless and fortunately, my enhancements did not add any noise either.
He designed it to accommodate those gorgeous NOS Coke can caps that I so wanted to use.
That made it necessary to marry them with equally impressive OT's for aesthetic's sake.
The good news is that those OT's bring a lot of base to the show, which Maynard's design powers through with ease.
So, at around $400.00 total, the (4) Hammond X-frmrs represent just under half of the parts cost for the whole build. No surprise there.
The chassis is a Bud Box from Mouser and the hardest part of the construction was making the various holes and cut outs perfect. I measured 4 to 6 times before cutting once. The analog meters were literally the only ones available that looked good/right. They are from e-Bay (Chinese) and even though this really isn't typical in my experience (even though there is reason to believe it should be), two out of four of them had minor problems which I did not discover until they were installed. (sigh) I took them out and fixed both (luckily) and re-installed.
There are a lot of little extras, too numerous to mention but to name a couple, there's the pin-point leds that I used for the volume and tone knob markers and the tiny little chassis holes that you can just make out between each tube pair are access holes for the feedback pots.
The small black knobs beside each output tube USED to be for cathode resistance adjustment. But Maynard's opinion was that that was unnecessary and it added potential for drift and etc. I bowed to his experience and replaced them with fixed resisters. However, that left me with some nice mil-spec 100 Ohm, 3-watt pots installed that were not doing anything. I ended up using the one on the left for the analog meter back-light dimming and the one on the right for the marker led dimming. Yay, mindless, harmless tweaking!
Of course the feature that makes the whole thing pop is the integrated waveform and performance display. I wish I could take credit for it but the truth is, those are widely available as complete functional modules. This one was around $100.00. The user has only to power them up and supply a properly scaled input to them. They come in many styles and configurations, so finding one for your application is not a problem.
The same goes for the signal generator. I considered making one from a dedicated chip but I found what you see here for $40.00,,, FORTY DOLLARS! For that I got a great looking, perfectly sized, digitally synthesized, drop it in the hole and you're done, audio generator... No brainer.
You'll notice there are no through holes or bolts or rivets, etc in the deck. This gives the top side of the chassis a very clean look. Maynard always cuts some very neat little vents for his power resisters to cool through but I could/would not consider that for this build. What I did was install a 12 volt muffin fan inside which circulates air over those resisters. It seems to do a fine job as they stay cool and the deck thermometers stay below 90 degrees. I'm guessing that spreading the heat around inside the aluminum chassis allows it a lot of surface area to wick off through.
That's the ten thousand foot view. I hope it helps but please contact me with any more questions/comments you may have.
Cheers, Stu
No offence to anyone, but stuff like this is kind of like opening a door to a garage where a badly pimpled teenager after cruising on his cool honda-civic-R with loud muffler and performance dasboard meters and looking to impress some girls ended up erking off all night.
I can't tell if you are trying to be compliment the amp/builder or be rude.
Amp looks good to me!
